This Problem Across All Years
The contact owns a 2013 BMW 335i. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the check engine warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the following day, while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The contact stated that after several attempts, the vehicle started. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed with battery failure. The contact was informed that the battery needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic, and the battery was replaced for the second time. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic and the battery was replaced a third time, but the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed with coolant pump failure. The contact was informed that the coolant pump had an electrical shortage and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was not made aware of the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The contact referenced NHTSA Campaign Number: 24V608000 (Engine and Engine Cooling, Electrical System); however, the VIN was not associated with the recall. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.
The contact owns a 2013 BMW 335i. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the check engine warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the following day, while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The contact stated that after several attempts, the vehicle started. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed with battery failure. The contact was informed that the battery needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic, and the battery was replaced for the second time. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic and the battery was replaced a third time, but the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed with coolant pump failure. The contact was informed that the coolant pump had an electrical shortage and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was not made aware of the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The contact referenced NHTSA Campaign Number: 24V608000 (Engine and Engine Cooling, Electrical System); however, the VIN was not associated with the recall. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.
I haven’t even had my bmw 335i 2013 with 84000 miles on it yet for more than 8 months but somehow for some reason my electronic power steering rack has gone out twice in the span of 5 months.this is a issue. Everytime I’m getting on or off on ramps and taking the turns and curves at 35-40 mph then when you go to let your wheel slide through your hands so you can continue going straight is supposed to be smooth and effortless I shouldn’t have to worry about my life everytime I drive a car because the [XXX] wheel wants to snap back to the center angle at Mach 7 speed. The steering wheel feels loose when I’m driving straight and is heavy when I turn. Even going over bumps it will just start to pull to that side the bump was on its hard to even switch lanes cause I have to fight with my steering wheel. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
I haven’t even had my bmw 335i 2013 with 84000 miles on it yet for more than 8 months but somehow for some reason my electronic power steering rack has gone out twice in the span of 5 months.this is a issue. Everytime I’m getting on or off on ramps and taking the turns and curves at 35-40 mph then when you go to let your wheel slide through your hands so you can continue going straight is supposed to be smooth and effortless I shouldn’t have to worry about my life everytime I drive a car because the [XXX] wheel wants to snap back to the center angle at Mach 7 speed. The steering wheel feels loose when I’m driving straight and is heavy when I turn. Even going over bumps it will just start to pull to that side the bump was on its hard to even switch lanes cause I have to fight with my steering wheel. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
There is TSB by BMW where they know there is an issue with there Fan.. according to them the fan is a 650w fan which causes a condition where the transmission gets a code. The car all of a sudden gets a dramatic power loss with no warning or check engine light.. i almost got into an accident when my car with no warning lost power… I called bmw of America and they are telling me I’m responsible to bring in the car and pay for the repair
There is TSB by BMW where they know there is an issue with there Fan.. according to them the fan is a 650w fan which causes a condition where the transmission gets a code. The car all of a sudden gets a dramatic power loss with no warning or check engine light.. i almost got into an accident when my car with no warning lost power… I called bmw of America and they are telling me I’m responsible to bring in the car and pay for the repair
Loss of power/won't Rev over 2500rpms No fault codes displayed on dash Radiator fan goes to max and cuts off consistently every 30sec-45sec Very dangerous situation when pulling out in front of traffic. I've only owned this car for 3 months! I need to get this fixed asap. Also, this problem occurs at random times in all different conditions. It will also "reset" after turning car off and restarting. It has happened to me 7 - 8 times in 3 months!
Loss of power/won't Rev over 2500rpms No fault codes displayed on dash Radiator fan goes to max and cuts off consistently every 30sec-45sec Very dangerous situation when pulling out in front of traffic. I've only owned this car for 3 months! I need to get this fixed asap. Also, this problem occurs at random times in all different conditions. It will also "reset" after turning car off and restarting. It has happened to me 7 - 8 times in 3 months!
1 DAY I DROVE THE CAR ALL THE DOOR LOCKES EXCEPT FOR THE REAR LEFT STOPED WORKING AND I GOT STUCK IN THE CAR FOR 30 MINUTES THEN THE DOOR UNLOCKED AND THEN STOPED WORKING CAR DOORS HAVE TO BE OPENS WITH THE KEY HOLE OR FROM INSIDE THE CAR MAJOR DEATH HAZARD.ALL HAPPENED IN ONE DAY IN A PARKING GARAGE
1 DAY I DROVE THE CAR ALL THE DOOR LOCKES EXCEPT FOR THE REAR LEFT STOPED WORKING AND I GOT STUCK IN THE CAR FOR 30 MINUTES THEN THE DOOR UNLOCKED AND THEN STOPED WORKING CAR DOORS HAVE TO BE OPENS WITH THE KEY HOLE OR FROM INSIDE THE CAR MAJOR DEATH HAZARD.ALL HAPPENED IN ONE DAY IN A PARKING GARAGE
I LOVED MY BMW UNTIL I REALIZED IT HAS A FAULTY ENGINE. I NOTICED THE DRIVE TRAIN MALFUNCTION LIGHT ONCE WHEN I WENT THROUGH A CAR WASH. I TURNED OFF WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR. MY CAR WAS UP TO DATE ON ALL OIL CHANGES ETC, I TAKE IT TO BMW SPECIALIST ONLY. I NOTICED A LIGHT TICK SOUND AND REPORTED IT TO BMW AT MY LAST OIL CHANGE. THEY DISREGARDED IT AND SAID THEY DID NOTICE OIL ON THE GASKET. NO CHANGES REQUESTED AT THAT TIME. MY CAR NEVER SHOWED SIGNS OF LEAKING OIL AND THE OIL PRESSURE AT TIMES SHOWED TO BE LOW BUT WOULD ALWAYS RETURN TO NORMAL. I WAS TOLD IT WAS BECAUSE THE HYBRIDS WORK DIFFERENTLY. ON MY WAY HOME ON THE FRONTAGE ROAD OF I35 MY CAR JUST SHUT DOWN AND NEVER RESTARTED. I WAS ABLE TO GUIDE IT INTO A PARKING LOT AND THE ENGINE JUST STOPPED TURNING AND THE DRIVE TRAIN MALFUNCTION LIGHT TURNED ON. I HAD IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC AND THEY BASICALLY SAID THEY HAD TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE ENGINE. A NEW ENGINE COST $18000 AND A USED IS AROUND 13000. THAT DOES NOT INCLUDE LABOR!!! I HAD TO THEN HAVE MY CAR TOWED HOME TO JUST PARK IT. THIS IS THE ONLY CAR I HAVE, I OWE THOUSANDS ON IT AND THE ENGINE COMPLETELY BROKE! AS I'M DOING RESEARCH I SEE MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS WITH THE SAME ISSUES AND SAME RESULT, COMPLETE ENGINE FAILURE!!! THIS NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED! FROM WHAT I GATHER IT IS RELATED TO THE DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION LIGHT SENDING A SIGNAL TO THE ENGINE & STOPPING OIL FROM REACHING THE TOP OF THE MOTOR, LEADING TO VANOS COMPLICATIONS AND LEADING TO METAL IN THE ENGINE LEADING TO A COMPLETE DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE. CHEAP ISSUE LEADING TO FAILURE OF THE ENTIRE VEHICLE. I'VE ALSO GATHERED THERE IS A FAULT WITH THE START/STOP THAT CAUSES THIS ISSUE. I AM LEFT WITH NO CAR, I'M A FULL TIME NURSE AND NOW IN DEBT WITH NO WORKING CAR! THIS COULD HAVE BEEN PREVENTED HAD A RECALL BEEN DONE A FEW YEARS AGO WITH ALL THE INITIAL COMPLAINTS!! SEVERAL FORUMS INCLUDING ON THIS SITE!!
I LOVED MY BMW UNTIL I REALIZED IT HAS A FAULTY ENGINE. I NOTICED THE DRIVE TRAIN MALFUNCTION LIGHT ONCE WHEN I WENT THROUGH A CAR WASH. I TURNED OFF WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR. MY CAR WAS UP TO DATE ON ALL OIL CHANGES ETC, I TAKE IT TO BMW SPECIALIST ONLY. I NOTICED A LIGHT TICK SOUND AND REPORTED IT TO BMW AT MY LAST OIL CHANGE. THEY DISREGARDED IT AND SAID THEY DID NOTICE OIL ON THE GASKET. NO CHANGES REQUESTED AT THAT TIME. MY CAR NEVER SHOWED SIGNS OF LEAKING OIL AND THE OIL PRESSURE AT TIMES SHOWED TO BE LOW BUT WOULD ALWAYS RETURN TO NORMAL. I WAS TOLD IT WAS BECAUSE THE HYBRIDS WORK DIFFERENTLY. ON MY WAY HOME ON THE FRONTAGE ROAD OF I35 MY CAR JUST SHUT DOWN AND NEVER RESTARTED. I WAS ABLE TO GUIDE IT INTO A PARKING LOT AND THE ENGINE JUST STOPPED TURNING AND THE DRIVE TRAIN MALFUNCTION LIGHT TURNED ON. I HAD IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC AND THEY BASICALLY SAID THEY HAD TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE ENGINE. A NEW ENGINE COST $18000 AND A USED IS AROUND 13000. THAT DOES NOT INCLUDE LABOR!!! I HAD TO THEN HAVE MY CAR TOWED HOME TO JUST PARK IT. THIS IS THE ONLY CAR I HAVE, I OWE THOUSANDS ON IT AND THE ENGINE COMPLETELY BROKE! AS I'M DOING RESEARCH I SEE MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS WITH THE SAME ISSUES AND SAME RESULT, COMPLETE ENGINE FAILURE!!! THIS NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED! FROM WHAT I GATHER IT IS RELATED TO THE DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION LIGHT SENDING A SIGNAL TO THE ENGINE & STOPPING OIL FROM REACHING THE TOP OF THE MOTOR, LEADING TO VANOS COMPLICATIONS AND LEADING TO METAL IN THE ENGINE LEADING TO A COMPLETE DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE. CHEAP ISSUE LEADING TO FAILURE OF THE ENTIRE VEHICLE. I'VE ALSO GATHERED THERE IS A FAULT WITH THE START/STOP THAT CAUSES THIS ISSUE. I AM LEFT WITH NO CAR, I'M A FULL TIME NURSE AND NOW IN DEBT WITH NO WORKING CAR! THIS COULD HAVE BEEN PREVENTED HAD A RECALL BEEN DONE A FEW YEARS AGO WITH ALL THE INITIAL COMPLAINTS!! SEVERAL FORUMS INCLUDING ON THIS SITE!!
IF CELL PHONE PLACED ON THE PASSENGER SEAT, IT COULD CAUSE A FALSE SEAT BELT LIGHT TO ILLUMINATE. I NOTICED WHILE CHARGING MY PHONE THROUGH THE USB PORT AND THE PHONE IS CHARGING; I CAN REPEAT THE INCIDENT OVER AND OVER. IT IS UNCLEAR IF THE AIRBAGS ARE FUNCTIONAL AT THIS TIME. THIS COULD HAPPEN IN MOTION AT ANY SPEED (HIGHWAY/CITY) OR WHILE STATIONARY.
IF CELL PHONE PLACED ON THE PASSENGER SEAT, IT COULD CAUSE A FALSE SEAT BELT LIGHT TO ILLUMINATE. I NOTICED WHILE CHARGING MY PHONE THROUGH THE USB PORT AND THE PHONE IS CHARGING; I CAN REPEAT THE INCIDENT OVER AND OVER. IT IS UNCLEAR IF THE AIRBAGS ARE FUNCTIONAL AT THIS TIME. THIS COULD HAPPEN IN MOTION AT ANY SPEED (HIGHWAY/CITY) OR WHILE STATIONARY.
THE CAR GOES INTO "LIMP MODE" WHILE DRIVING REDUCING POWER IMMEDIATELY. I WAS MAKING A TURN ONTO A STREET CROSSING A HIGHWAY AND MY CAR WENT INTO THIS LIMP MODE. I WAS ALMOST HIT DUE TO THE SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER. SYMPTOMS: 1) LOSS OF POWER AND CAR WILL NOT REV. PAST ~3,000 RPM (NO FAULT CODES ON DASH) 2) RADIATOR ELECTRIC COOLING FAN ON MAX (VERY LOUD) 3) ENGINE OIL TEMP. APPROX. 205 DEGF OR LOWER (WHILE LIMP MODE IS OCCURRING, TEMP. IS USUALLY NOT AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMP OF 245 DEGF) THE PROBLEM GOES AWAY ONCE CAR IS TURNED OFF AND BACK ON (IT RESETS). MANY USERS HAVE REPORTED THAT IT SEEMS TO HAPPEN AFTER A LONG COMFORT MODE DRIVE ON THE FREEWAY FOLLOWED BY CITY DRIVING AND SWITCHING TO SPORT MODE. REPAIR ATTEMPTS: 1) AUXILIARY ELECTRIC COOLING FAN REPLACEMENT (MOUNTED TO THE RADIATOR AND FAN SHROUD) - BIGGEST CULPRIT (THE FAN IS TESTED DIRECTLY AND WILL FAIL THE TEST BUT MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE A FAULT CODE STORED IN THE ECU) 2) FAN RELAY REPLACEMENT 3) THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT 4) DME REPLACEMENT WITH SOFTWARE UPDATE AS FAR AS WE CAN TELL, THERE IS NO SIB YET BUT PLENTY OF PUMA CASES HAVE BEEN FILED. A FEW PEOPLE HAVE HAD THEIR CARS BOUGHT BACK AND REPLACED BY BMW. PLEASE LOOK HERE HTTP://WWW.F30POST.COM/FORUMS/SHOWTHREAD.PHP?T=786475 THERE ARE 50 PAGES OF THIS AND BMW IS NOT HELPING. *TR
THE CAR GOES INTO "LIMP MODE" WHILE DRIVING REDUCING POWER IMMEDIATELY. I WAS MAKING A TURN ONTO A STREET CROSSING A HIGHWAY AND MY CAR WENT INTO THIS LIMP MODE. I WAS ALMOST HIT DUE TO THE SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER. SYMPTOMS: 1) LOSS OF POWER AND CAR WILL NOT REV. PAST ~3,000 RPM (NO FAULT CODES ON DASH) 2) RADIATOR ELECTRIC COOLING FAN ON MAX (VERY LOUD) 3) ENGINE OIL TEMP. APPROX. 205 DEGF OR LOWER (WHILE LIMP MODE IS OCCURRING, TEMP. IS USUALLY NOT AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMP OF 245 DEGF) THE PROBLEM GOES AWAY ONCE CAR IS TURNED OFF AND BACK ON (IT RESETS). MANY USERS HAVE REPORTED THAT IT SEEMS TO HAPPEN AFTER A LONG COMFORT MODE DRIVE ON THE FREEWAY FOLLOWED BY CITY DRIVING AND SWITCHING TO SPORT MODE. REPAIR ATTEMPTS: 1) AUXILIARY ELECTRIC COOLING FAN REPLACEMENT (MOUNTED TO THE RADIATOR AND FAN SHROUD) - BIGGEST CULPRIT (THE FAN IS TESTED DIRECTLY AND WILL FAIL THE TEST BUT MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE A FAULT CODE STORED IN THE ECU) 2) FAN RELAY REPLACEMENT 3) THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT 4) DME REPLACEMENT WITH SOFTWARE UPDATE AS FAR AS WE CAN TELL, THERE IS NO SIB YET BUT PLENTY OF PUMA CASES HAVE BEEN FILED. A FEW PEOPLE HAVE HAD THEIR CARS BOUGHT BACK AND REPLACED BY BMW. PLEASE LOOK HERE HTTP://WWW.F30POST.COM/FORUMS/SHOWTHREAD.PHP?T=786475 THERE ARE 50 PAGES OF THIS AND BMW IS NOT HELPING. *TR