2014 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA Unknown Or Other Problems

Drive Belt Tensioner is broken, causing loud noise under the hood. The belt could be affected if not repaired and confirmed by Firestone Auto Care. Nothing else but Chevy GM will not fix the issue even though there is a specific service campaign bulletin in regards to the issue.

The key is stuck and will not release from my ignition. I have tried numerous ways to get the key out and it just won't come out. I have had to disconnect my battery so that it doesn't drain my battery, but the issue is still there. I can't use my car to go to work due to the fact my key won't come out. This has really put me in a bind and is unacceptable. I don't have the money to have this fixed and I would like for the manufacturer to help me out. This is a real safety issue. I have had my car looked at by a mechanic and he is unsure of exactly how to fix this.

The key intermediately gets stuck in the ignition and will not come out, have to wiggle and move steering wheel and move from park to drive then try repeated times to get the key out. This appears to be a common problem with 2014 captivas.

The key keeps getting stuck in the ignition once the car is off. This prevents me from being able to leave my car unattended. I was trying to go grocery shopping and couldn't because the key wouldn't come out of the ignition for me to lock the doors. 01/04/2022. The most recent time this happened before today was about 2 weeks ago 12/21/2021. I tried starting the vehicle again and turning it off and it still wouldn't allow the key to release. My husband was able to get the key out the last after several hours. We will be scheduling an appointment with service center when an appointment becomes available to have it inspected. Based on research this has been an issue with captiva's in the past.

Driving vehicle all of a sudden it just cut off with no warning . Lost power just went dead and would not start back up had to get towed.

The key gets stuck in ignition and can't be removed when in park. If key can't be removed and remains in the car, it will drain the battery. The key gets stuck often maybe every other trip but at least once a day. This started happening over the last 6 months on random occasions but has increased in frequency in the last 30 days. It's now a regular event in which the key won't release from the ignition. Sometimes after multiple attempts at restarting the car and changing from park to drive and then to park again and changing position of the key, it may release after 20 minutes of this process. This is a safety issue because the car can be stolen with a key left in the ignition and/or the battery will be drained. Both are not good. There are numerous reports of this issue on the internet from other other with same car.

WE WERE INVOLVED IN A DOMINO EFFECT ACCIDENT, WHERE MY CAR WAS TOTALED. IT SUFFERED SEVERE FRONT AND REAR DAMAGE, WITH THE REAR WINDOW SHATTERED AS WE WERE STRUCK FROM BEHIND WHILE STOPPED IN TRAFFIC ON AN INTERSTATE. NONE OF THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED.

Mileage: 76,000

MY KEY KEEP GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION IT WON'T TURN ON LOCK TO GET THE KEY OUT.

Mileage: 91,578

WHEN I PUT MY CAR IN PARK, SOMETIMES I CAN'T GET THE KEY TO TURN OFF THE CAR. I HAVE TO BACK UP, PULL FORWARD SEVERAL TIMES THEN FINALLY SOMETIMES I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. I WAS COMPLETELY STOPPED AND IN PARK. IT HAPPENS A LOT.

Mileage: 86,000

THE CAPTIVA SUDDENLY SHUTS DOWN RANDOMLY FOR ABSOLUTELY NO REASON. THE ISSUE WAS DIRECTED TO BE REPAIRED IN THE OTHER CHEVY VEHICLES BECAUSE THEY ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN HOWEVER THE CAPTIVA IS A FLEET VEHICLE WHICH MEANS THEY DIDN'T FIX THE KNOWN ISSUE OF PUTTING A FORD BATTERY SENSOR ON A CHEVY VEHICLE BECAUSE FLEET VEHICLES ARE RARELY SERVICED BY A DEALERSHIP. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND SOMEONE IS GOING TO DIE IF THEY HAVEN'T ALREADY. THIS HAPPENED TO ME LOSING ALL POWER AND COMPLETELY SHUTTING DOWN GOING 65 MPH ON THE FREEWAY WITH MY CHILDREN IN THE CAR WITH ME. I'VE NOT DRIVEN THIS CAR SINCE AUGUST BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO DIE AND I STILL OWE ABOUT 4 YEARS OF PAYMENTS ON THIS LEMON.

Mileage: 80,000

THE IGNITION SWITCH ON MY 2014 CHEVY CAPTIVA GETS STUCK AND IT DOES NOT ALLOW THE KEY TO BE REMOVED WHEN TURNING IT OFF WHEN STATIONARY. UPON PERSONAL RESEARCH IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THIS MODEL HAS HAD THIS ISSUE WITH COUNTLESS DRIVERS (TYPICALLY AT 40K-50K MILES) AND IS NOT ADDRESSED BY GM AS A RECALL OR SAFETY ISSUE. HOWEVER, WHEN THE SWITCH IS UNABLE TO BE REMOVED IT IS A SENSORY ISSUE, THE VEHICLE KEY IS ALSO ABLE TO COME OUT WHILE ON DRIVE. A SIMPLE SEARCH 'CHEVY CAPTIVA KEY STUCK' WILL RESULT IN MANY SUCH INCIDENTS.

Mileage: 43,000

THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT THE IGNITION WHEN I TURN THE CAR OFF, I HAVE TO LEAVE THE KEY IN AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND USE MY SPARE KEY TO LOCK THE VEHICLE, SUCH A HASSLE

THE KEY IS INTERMITTENTLY GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHEN THE CAR IS PLACED IN PARK.

Mileage: 65,000

THE KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION AND TAKES ALOT OF JIMMING WITH IT TO GET KEY OUT, DEALER WANTS TO CHARGE 90.00 JUST TO LOOK AT THAT , NOT INCLUDING WHAT IT WILL COST TO FIX.

Mileage: 30,489

THE IGNITION SWITCH DOESN'T ALWAYS TURN ALL THE WAY OFF, SO I CAN'T GET MY KEY OUT. I HAVE TO RESTART MY CAR A NUMBER OF TIMES AND FINALLY AFTER ABOUT 10 TO 15 MINUTES I'LL GET LUCKY & IT WILL CLICK ALL THE WAY TO OFF & THEN I CAN GET MY KEY OUT. THERE EVEN TIMES WHEN I COULDN'T GET MY KEY OUT AND IT RAN MY BATTERY DOWN AND THEN I HAD TO HAVE A JUMP TO GET MY CAR STARTED....IT IS ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE !!!!!!! PLEASE HELP....

I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 2014 CHEVY CAPTIVA LTZ. UPON DRIVING IT OFF OF THE LOT AND PARKING, I TRIED TO USE THE BUTTON FOR THE BACK WINDSHIELD WASHER TO WASH THE WINDSHIELD AND THE WIPER WOULD COME ON BUT NO WATER CAME OUT. I DONE THIS REPEATEDLY THINKING MAYBE IT JUST TOOK SOME TIME TO GET BACK THERE, WHEN I STARTED HEARING WATER RUNNING AND STOPPED PRESSING THE BUTTON IMMEDIATELY. IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWING THAT, I STARTED TO SMELL SOMETHING BURNING AND THE SPEAKERS STARTED MAKING A POPPING SOUND. THE WASHER FLUID WAS LEAKING INSIDE THE REAR PANELING AND SOAKING SEVERAL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS. THIS IS A MAJOR FIRE HAZARD AS THERE IS A LOT OF INSTRUMENT WIRING ON THAT SIDE.

Mileage: 86,000

CAN'T SHUT OFF CAR KEY ONLY GOES TO ACC CAN I REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION

THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION WHEN PARKED. IT WON'T TURN TO THE 'OFF' POSITION. IT STAYS LOCKED ON THE 'ACC' POSITION. I HAVE HAD THE PROBLEM LOOKED AT BY CERTIFIED CHEVROLET MECHANICS FROM THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY CANNOT SEEM TO FIND A SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM THEY DID REPLACE THE GEAR SHIFT THINKING IT WASN'T COMMUNICATING PROPERLY TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY, HOWEVER THIS DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM.

Mileage: 53,000

HAVE A CAPTIVE WITH ABOUT 45000 MILES ON IT. THE PAST FEW DAYS HAVE BEEN HAVING THE PROBLEM OF THE KEY GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION. THE FIRST FEW TIMES I WAS ABLE TO FIDDLE WITH THE GEAR SHIFT BY PUTTING THE CAR IN DRIVE AND THEN BACK IN PARK. I WAS THEN ABLE TO GET THE KEY OUT. HOWEVER THIS LAST TIME I COULD NOT REMOVE THE KEY NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I TRIED. LUCKILY I HAVE AN EXTENDED WARRANTY WITH A 200 DOLLAR DEDUCTIBLE SO HOPEFULLY IT WON COST TO MUCH TO FIX. *TR

Mileage: 44,500

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. TOOK TO THE THE DEALERSHIP AND THE DIAGNOSIS WAS THE GEARSHIFT LEVER. SEE ATTACHED RECEIPT.

Mileage: 38,285

CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY FROM IGNITION

MY KEY CONTINUOUSLY ARE STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHEN TRYING TO EXIT. I HAVE HAD TO SIT IN MY CAR FOR AN HOUR. AFTER CONSTANT ATTEMPTS, I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO REMOVE THEM. HAVE TRIED WD -40, NOT CHANGES. ONCE MY SON HAD TO REMOVE THE FRONT PANEL AND UNSCREW PARTS IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY. THE PROBLEM BEGAN LATE DECEMBER AND CONTINUES TO DATE. VEHICLE STATIONARY.

Mileage: 47,000

8 MONTHS AGO I REPLACED 2 SENSORS ON THE CAR AND NOW THE SAME 2 SENSORS ARE BAD. PREVENTS VEHICLE FROM GOING INTO PARK AND THE KEY FROM COMING OUT OF THE IGNITION.

HEATING SYSTEM IS STUCK IN A/C MODE

Mileage: 64,000

IGNITION, WHEN DRIVING AND AFTER PARKING COULD NOT REMOVE THE KEY. NO MATTER WHAT I WAS TRYING TO DO COULD NOT REMOVE THE KEY, HAD TO DRIVE OFF AGAIN MANY TIMES AND STOP AND TRY REMOVE THE KEY. AFTER A WHILE AND THIS BEING A MAJOR SAFETY HAZARD I TURNED OVER TO HAVE IT FIXED AT SCOTT AUTO REPAIR. COST ME $689.90 AND EXPECT TO BE REFUND BY THE MANUFACTURER AS THIS IS A DEFECT SINCE HAVE ONLY 19662 MILES ON THE SPEED METER OF THE CAR

Mileage: 19,662

KEY STICKS IN THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND TRYING TO SHUT IF OFF. I HAVE TO RESTART, MOVE THE GEARSHIFT BACK AND FORTH THEN TRY TO TURN OFF MULTIPLE TIMES BEFORE I'M ABLE TO GET THE KEY TO RELEASE. SO FAR THIS IS ONLY HAPPENING WHEN I AM PARKING THE CAR. I HAVE FOUND INSTANCES OF THE IGNITION TURNING OFF WHILE THE CAR IS BEING DRIVEN RESULTING IN CRASHS AND/OR DEATHS. PURCHASED IN AUG 2016. VICTORY CHEVY IN PETALUMA, CA HAS REPLACED THE PARK LOCK SOLENOID TWICE BUT KEY STILL STICKS IN IGNITION. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN SINCE 50+ PEOPLE HAVE DIED WITH CARS HAVING THIS SAME PROBLEM. I DON'T WANT TO BE A STATISTIC.

WE BOUGHT THE 2014 CAPATIVA AND DROVE IT FOR ABOUT A MONTH. WHEN YOU WOULD BACK UP IT WOULD MAKE A GRINDING NOISE. THEN IN A FEW DAYS YOU COULDN'T HARDLY HOLD IT IN THE ROAD LIKE YOU HAD A TIRE COMING OFF. WE WERE ON THE HIGHWAY AND IF YOU GOT OVER 50 MILES A HOUR TOOK BOTH HANDS TO HOLD IT IN THE ROAD. IF YOU GOT UNDER 50 AND STAYED YOU COULD HOLD IT IN THE ROAD. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY CHECKED IT OUT AND FOUND BOTH ROATERS IN FRONT WAS WORPED AND HAD BEEN PUT ON THAT WAY FROM FACTORY. THE WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT AND THE CAR WAS STILL UNDER WARENTERY. I HAD TO GO BUY BOTH FRONT ROATERS AND PAY FOR HAVING THEM REPLACED. THE MACHINACE TOLD US IF WE HADN'T OF WENT AHEAD AND CHANGED THEM WHEN WE DID THEY COULD OF LOCKED UP OR THE WHOLE WHEEL AND ALL CAME OF GOING DOWN THE ROAD. THIS COULD OF CAUSE A BAD WREACK . THE CAR ONLY HAD 3600 MILES ON IT WHEN IT STARTED MAKING THE NOISE WERE WE COULD HEAR IT. MY POINT IS IF YOU BUY SOMETHING AND IT IS STILL UNDER WARENATY THEY SHOULD OF FIXED THIS PROBLEM AND PAID FOR IT NOT ME.IT COAST US 400.00 FOR ROATORS AND THEN ANOTHER 350.00 FOR THE LABOR NOT COUNTING THE 500.00 FOR THE TIRES THAT IT HAD WORE IN PLACES THAT WAS NOT FIT TO HAVE ON THE CAR. THEY COULD OF BLOWED OUT OR ANYTHING AND CAUSED US TO WREACK. THIS DEALER DIDN'T EVEN ACT LIKE THEY WERE CONCORENED ABOUT IT AT ALL. I HAVE TALKED TO 10 OR 12 PEOPLE THAT OWNS A CAPATIVA 2014 AND THEY HAVE HAD TO DO SAME THING. I THING THE COMPANY SHOULD CHECK IN TO THIS AND PAY THE OWNERS OF THESE VECHIELS THE MONEY THEY ARE OUR FOR BUYING A SUV THAT HAS THIS PROBLEM AND THEY WOULD NOT STAND UP TO THE WAREANTEY LIKE THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO. I LOVE CHEVYS BUT IF THEY NOT GOING TO STAND BEHIND THEIR VEHICLES WHEN YOU HAVE A PROBLEM I GUESS I WILL HAVE TO START DRIVING A FORD.

Mileage: 3,600

THE AIR GETS HOT WHEN SITTING STILL. THE AIR EVEN ON HIGH WILL BARELY WORK AT TIMES. WHEN SWITCHED ON JUST THE TIP FACE VENTS, IT BECOMES STUCK BLOWING ONLY ON FEET FOR DAYS AT A TIME.

Mileage: 48,000

WHILE DRIVING I WAS SUDDENLY OVERCOME BY A NOXIOUS ODOR WHICH CAUSED BURNING IN MY EYES, NOSE AND THROAT. I TURNED OFF MY A/C AND OPENED MY WINDOWS WHICH HELPED DILUTE THE ODOR. BY CHANCE I LIFTED MY DRIVER-SIDE VISOR AND A LOUD CLICKING OCCURRED. I REPEATED THIS TO TRY TO FIGURE OUT WHAT WAS WRONG, THEN WHEN I GRASPED THE ROD THAT THE VISOR SLIDES ON MY FINGERS WERE BURNED AND BLISTERED.BECAUSE IT WAS SO HOT. THE CABIN LIGHTS FLICKER AND THE HEADLIGHTS DO AS WELL. THE CEILING AREA BY THE VISOR BECOMES VERY HOT TO THE TOUCH. WHEN THE CAR IS OFF, IT BEGINS TO COOL. I THINK THIS HAS BEEN COMING ON FOR A WHILE BECAUSE OF THE FLICKERING, BUT I HAD NO IDEA THAT IT MIGHT ALL BE RELATED. BY THE WAY, I HAD MY CAR LESS THAN 9 MONTHS WHEN THE BATTERY DIED. ODD FOR A 2014 VEHICLE.

Mileage: 18,800

ON JULY 9, 2015 AT APPROXIMATELY 4PM I NOTICED WHAT APPEARED TO BE (COLD) FROST BLOWING FROM THE INSIDE VENTS OF MY VEHICLE, AND AS I LOOKED AT THE TEMP. GAUGE I NOTICED IT WAS GOING UP IN THE 200S SO I IMMEDIATELY TURNED ON MY HEAT TOO REDUCED THE TEMP., BECAUSE I THOUGHT TH VEHICLE WAS OVER HEATING. BUT AFTER AWHILE I NOTIED THE TEMP WAS NOT GOING DOWN SO I SWITCHED TI THE AC, AND IMMEDIATELY THE TEMP. BEGAN TO GO DOWN BACK TO NORMAL, WHICH IS 181 ON AVERAGE. I'M NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS, AS I DID HAVE COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW TANK. I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND MENTIONED THIS ISSUE TO THE SERVICE PERSON AND THEY STATED SOMETHING ABOUT THE AC COMPRESSOR, WHICH I DID NOT UNDERSTAND. SO I'VE BEEN RUNNING MY AC WHENEVER THE TEMP GAUGE GOES UP. TO THIS DAY I STILL DON'T KNOW WHY THIS IS HAPPENING.

Mileage: 25,000