2017 DODGE DURANGO Electrical System Problems

I bought my car with 50,000 miles. I didn’t even have 55,000 and my car started have electrical issues with the speedometer, my dashboard started glitching with all the lights including an A with exclamation mark. I took it to the Dodge dealership in Huntsville and said they couldn’t do anything about it since the recall seemed to be repair but they couldn’t clear the code. My truck has had the same issue with the recall. My car was never repaired from the recall. My vehicle is dangerous to drive on the freeway as I will get this code a! And the speed will automatically drop. I really need help as this recall was never resolved on my car

While driving; the vehicles dashboard, navigation system, entire vehicles light glitches as well as speed diminishes but doesn't completely shuts off only for seconds at a time causing the vehicle to continue accelerating while also pulling back like a chocking sensation as dashboard speed goes from 0mph to a lower speed vehicle was previously traviling at.

Unknown

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2017 Dodge Durango. The contact stated that while attempting to add the vehicle to the insurance company policy, the Carfax history report showed a mileage discrepancy. The vehicle was a private sale. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 69,752; however, it was later discovered on the Carfax history report that the mileage was 153,000 on December 22, 2022.

Mileage: 153,000

My race track tail lights and license plate lights just stopped working all together. This poses visibility issues of a safety concern for those approaching from behind me. No warnings or other symptoms/issues were present. No LED lights were burnt out prior to all of the lights not working all at once. They all were working in the morning when I left for work and then did not turn on when I left work that day. I checked the fuse which is fine. All other lights on the side of the quarter panels (ie. turn signals, reverse lights, tail lights) work and the brake light at the top of the lift gate works properly.

Rear light has known issue of water protruding into housing causing a short circuit to occur, therefore causing tail light to quit working including license plate lights to quit working causing me to be pulled over when for equipment not operating to find out then my lights had shorted out. Then to find out to get my license plate light in working order i need to spend 1500+ dollars for a design flaw that dodge is still manufacturing. The people of the united states need your help getting this fixed

We have had engine issues since the first couples months of having this car, the engine has been replaced 2 times, and now tipm and start/stop is having issues, this car needs to be recalled

Engine cut off while driving down the interstate, traffic was moderate and thankfully made it to the side of the road. After about 20 min, the engine started. Seemed like a lack of fuel. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine for about a week and then while fueling it at the gas station, it wouldn't start again. After about 20 min, it started. While dropping the fuel tank, I noticed the connector that is located to the rear of the fuel tank on the passenger side and the main wire for the fuel pump was melted in the connector. It was evident that there was significant heat on that pin and I am in the process of repairing the wiring as well as the connector. This is a known issue in previous models, obviously it is not a issue for Chrysler to fix it until someone is killed in an accident.,

The contact owns a 2017 Dodge Durando. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the horn failed to operate as needed. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 106,000.

Mileage: 106,000

Lost power steering after I started vehicle after driving. It happens to remove power steering unavailable code after restarting vehicle several times and power steering returns. I believe it may be something with ABS as the ECU and EPS is all connected. If something is off then it goes into limp mode. ABS was resetted and worked fine and not needing to replace the entire electric power steering. All started when I had 88K miles. One time the steering wheel locked on me while I was driving over a bridge with snow and ice on ground.

Rear tail panel lights don’t work, water intrusion causing failure

Just bought the vehicle two months ago and have had to replace multiple things on the vehicle. The first issue was the diming lights and passenger window rolling down while driving along with remote start not working got that fixed now the car wants to turn on when it feels like it. It could be working for two weeks straight then you go to turn the car on after just turning it off five minutes prior and it does not wanna work you mess with the wires, try to jumpstart the wires and unhook the passenger seat heat and adjuster then it starts..

The automatic stop/start ERG valve

Water intrusion on Track Light started with small section becoming dim March 2023. Left license plate bulb/housing went out october 2023 with corrosion on plug. February 2024 entire hatch lighting out (track light + both license plate lights).

Water has been collecting in the right hand side of my racetrack taillight on my 2017 Durango causing my entire strip to burn out completely. It seems as though debris and bugs have also made their way into the tail light as both are visible and trapped within the light assembly. The taillight flickers upon starting the car and then completely stops working. I attempted to dry the light out by removing it, getting all condensation and collected water out, sealing up the parts that were weeping and cleaning up the gaskets that had weak spots but the entire assembly seems to have totally failed. This car has had no rear end damage and nothing happened that would have compromised the unit to cause this issue.

On my 2017 Doge Durango RT the “Racetrack” light has failed and created a safety issue for my vehicle. The LED light on the hatch has failed from poor manufacturing and has allowed water it get into the light shorting out the whole taillight. This has not only made a running light not work while I’m driving, but has caused the license plate light and the rear backup camera to fail. This is an over 1000 dollar repair. I will replace it for the safety of my family and those who drive on the roads with me. I have seen many other dodge Durango of the same model years that have a similar problem. There is a large online community who report the same issue. I hope this issue has not caused an accident for anyone else.

With the electrical system, the vehicle's rear lighting allows for water intrusion and causing the lighting to short out. An example can be found at the following URL: https://www.dodgedurango.net/threads/this-effing-tail-light.78983/ . This issue costs between $1100-$2000 to fix and requires a whole new rear tail panel. For the visibility/wipers, when the driver attempts to clean the windshield using windshield wiper fluid the windshield wiper fluid line disconnects itself causing the driver to have to come to a stop and re-connect the line.

Water intrusion into the large tail light causing a short and corrosion that intermittently disables blinkers and running lights

Shifter knob moves freely without having foot on brake so the shifter doesn’t lock into a gear. Message appears on dash “Service Shifter”.

This is now the 2nd time the racetrack light that houses the rear taillight assembly has allowed water to gain entry into the electrical system. Causes the lights to corrupt and short out. FCA refuses to acknowledge this issue. This is a problem not just with my vehicle but there are 100's of these reported on the internet. Including a pending class action lawsuit because FCA refuses to acknowledge the issue. We need someone with higher authority to hold FCA accountable and issue a recall with a permanent fix! Please help me and all the other owners!!!!

The car shut off while in drive. I was at a stop sign behind another car. They pulled away, I went to pull up and the car shut off. It started back up after being turned off and restarted.

The whole back panel of tail, break, blinker, licenses plate lights do not work. The seal does not perform properly and causes water to build up in the lights and fries them. It causes the vehicle to be unsafe when driving due to no lights working. No warnings were given at all just completely quit working.

No lights on the dashboard were on but the radio/ climate control center screen was flashing. Shut screen off. Was involved in motor vehicle accident with front end collision. Police report and insurance notified. Air bags did not deploy. Approximate speed on impacted was 30mph. Two days prior the auto stop and start system was flashing on dashboard.

The rear “track light” which includes the camera within the assembly collects water from a failed seal. This causes lights and electrical components to be damaged and stop working. Drivers losing function in their brake/tail lights and cameras causes dangerous situations on the road. This is a common issue in the 14’-‘20 models.

Have had ongoing issues with the electrical system since I purchased this vehicle new yet the dealership continued telling me they couldn't find anything until now. My SUV is 5 years old and now all of a sudden needs a new wiring harness.

Water leaking in the race light and now for the third time water is in there again and now the right side is burnt out!

Water is able to leak into the rear hatch “racetrack” tail light by means of a faulty sealing system used on the tail Light across the back hatch. The water then grounds out the break and tail light function as well as numerous other electrical systems (in my case the radio and whole vehicle control system located in the dash). The seal on the light is a non serviceable item and the manufacturer claims the only fix is to replace the entire light at a cost in excess of $1,500.00. The gap in the seal is large enough for insects to enter the light as well, so not at all water tight as a external light should be.

When shifting the vehicle it says “service shifter”. Once again I look up this issue on the web and hundreds of others are saying they have the same issue with jeeps and a variety of dodge vehicles.

The tail light on the tail gate accumulates water and causes the light to go out. This could cause the entire brake light to short and could result in a rear end collision. 85 percent of the Dodge Durangos I see have the same issue. This isn’t a wear and tear problem, the lights weren’t sealed properly from the factory. Attached are just a few photos demonstrating the problem. Dodge owes it to the consumer to have this recalled

Back on Aug 24th, I brought in my 2017 Dodge Durango for what I suspected was a burnt out headlight bulb on the left side. Turned out, I needed a new ballast. Today, it's now my right side that needs a new ballast. I have looked over the complaints for this SUV and it is not an uncommon issue.

The climate control system is malfunctioning, and the windows will not roll down. The heat comes on full blast and cannot be turned down or off, and it is summertime. On a hot day the car cannot be driven more than a couple of miles because the interior becomes so hot that it becomes difficult to breathe and remain conscious with the heat on full blast and the windows up. The controls for the windows do not work. The controls for the heat do not work. The climate control system is connected to, or is controlled, by the Uconnect System, which also does not work. I cannot safely operate this vehicle for more than about 5 minutes on a hot day. The vehicle is available for inspection. The problem was reproduced by an auto dealer, who said that it is likely a problem in the electrical system and would take about 3 hours to diagnose. The vehicle was not inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others. However, I called FCA. They told be to do a software update for the Uconnect System. I successfully updated the software, but it did not resolve the problem. There were no warning lamps, messages, or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure. However, about three months ago the Uconnect System began malfunctioning by occasionally and intermittently rebooting – i.e., flashing on and off. After a couple of weeks, the rebooting occurred more frequently, and now it will work at all.

The rear center tail light, or track light, was poorly designed and it allows water to get trapped inside and sit, resulting in the lights burning out. This single light assembly consists of a brake light that is the width of the rear hatch, a backup camera, and reverse lights. The only way to fix this problem is to replace the entire light assembly which costs over $1,000. This is a very widespread problem with Dodge Durangos based on the vast number of complaints for this specific issue, and I am surprised that this is not a recall considering the number of complaints associated with this problem. As you can see from the picture that I have attached, the bottom lights on both sides no longer work because of the sitting water inside. I tried to get this problem fixed, being that it is a manufacturer defect, but Dodge is unwilling to help me because my 2017 Durango is just out of warranty. I would greatly appreciate help with this problem. Thank you

THE LEFT TURN SIGNAL AND THE BACK TRACK LIGHT GO OUT AT THE SAME TIME INTERMITTENTLY. ALSO THE STOP AND START FUNCTION IS STILL NOT WORKING CORRECTLY AND I HAD IT AT THE DEALER, DUTCHESS DODGE 2X'S NOW. 1ST TIME THEY STATED THE STOP/ START BATTERY AND THE 2ND TIME THEY REPLACED THE CEL AND STILL HAVING ISSUES WITH NOT WORKING CORRECTLY. I HAVE ONLY HAD THIS TRUCK SINCE OCTOBER. THERE'S NO WAY I SHOULD BE HAVING THESE ISSUES. THERE IS DEFINITELY GOING ON WITH THIS TRUCK AND NOT SURE WHY THERE IS NOT A RECALL. WHEN I WAS DRIVING AND MADE A STOP THE START/STOP FUNCTION STARTED WORKING BUT THEN THE LEFT TURN SIGNAL AND THE BACK TRACK LIGHT STOPPED WORKING . THE FIRST DAY I GOT THE TRUCK HOME THE START/STOP FUNCTION WAS NOT WORKING BUT THE TURN SIGNAL AND TRACK LIGHT WERE FINE. I PURCHASED THE TRUCK AND IT HAD 70751 MILES ON IT. THE STOP START/ STOP FUNCTION WAS NOT WORKING FROM THE DAY I PURCHASE IT AND THEN CAM ONE PROBLEM AFTER ANOTHER.

Mileage: 70,751

MY LIGHTS KEEP BLINKING ON AND OFF MY WINDOW KEEPS GOING UP AND DOWN THE PASSENGER WINDOW MY REMOTE STARTER SOMETIME DON'T WANT TO START

Mileage: 5,000

ALL DOORS LOCK EXCEPT FOR THE DRIVER'S DOOR

PARKSENSE MODULE FAILED. VEHICLE HAS LESS THAN 33,000 MILES. WHEN PARKSENSE BUTTON IS PRESSED IT CHIME ONCE.

WATER POOLING IN TAILLIGHTS CAUSING CORROSION TO LED'S AND BURNING THEM OUT - CAN LEAD TO SHORT CIRCUIT AND POSSIBLE FIRE.

Mileage: 49,000

THE LIGHTS IN THE CAR ARE GOING OFF AND ON BY THEMSELVES, THE PASSENGER WINDOW GOES DOWN WITHOUT THE WINDOW BEING TOUCHED. AND THE CAR WILL TURN OFF WHEN IDLING IN THE PARK POSITION AND THE AUTOMATIC SHUT OFF IS NOT ON OR OFF.

Mileage: 37,000

LEAVING A FRIENDS HOUSE MY '17 DD WITH 32K MILES STALLED OUT WHILE I WAS IN A TURN LANE ON A BUSY STREET JUST AT AN INTERSECTION LEADING TO THE HIGHWAY. THE DASH LIT UP WITH SEVERAL LIKES AND THE ONLY LIGHT I COULD CATCH WAS 'POWER STEERING ISSUE CAR WILL CUT OFF SOON' THE CAR WAS STILL IN THE 'RUN' POSITION AND TURNING TO 'OFF' OR 'ACC' WAS NOT ENGAGING. I COULD NOT MOVE OR PUSH THE VEHICLE AS ENGAGE THE NEUTRAL POSITION WAS NOT HAPPENING. AFTER CALLING THE TOW TRUCK AND SITTING FOR ABOUT AN HOUR (SCARED I'D GET HIM BY ONCOMING TRAFFIC) I LOOKED IN THE MANUAL AND ONLINE TO SEE HOW TO MANUALLY ENGAGE THE NEUTRAL POSITION. AFTER A FEW FAILED ATTEMPTS I WAS ABLE TO ENGAGE IT AND MOVE IT SAFELY FROM THE STREET. TOW TRUCK ARRIVED AN HOUR LATER AND NOW NO BUTTONS WORKED. HE HAD TO USE THE MANUAL KEY TO UNLOCK DOORS AND THE DASH WAS LIGHTING UP WITH SEVERAL WARNINGS. GOING TOO FAST TO SEE OR DESCRIBE. APPT IS SCHEDULED FOR 5/28 PREVIOUSLY SCHEDULED BECAUSE TWO DAYS PRIOR TO THIS EVENT GAS GAUGE INDICATED ALMOST EMPTY. WENT TO FILL UP AND WAS ONLY ABLE TO FILL 7.7 GALLONS BEFORE GAS PUMP INDICATED THE CAR WAS FULL. AFTER I STOPPED PUMPING THE NEEDLE ONLY READ HALF A TANK BUT WOULD NOT LET ME CONTINUE TO FUEL AS IT INDICATED IT WAS ALREADY FULL. *TR

Mileage: 32,000

THE REAR LIGHTS FILL UP WITH WATER WHEN IT RAINS AND MAKES THE LIGHTS IN OPERABLE, IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE THAT IS AFFECTING SEVERAL MODEL YEAR DURANGO'S BUT CHRYSLER REFUSES TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT.

Mileage: 45,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 DODGE DURANGO. APPROXIMATELY FOUR HOURS AFTER PARKING THE VEHICLE IN THE DRIVEWAY, FLAMES APPEARED FROM THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE QUARTER PANEL OF THE VEHICLE. AS A RESULT, THE REAR WINDSHIELD SHATTERED AND REAR PASSENGER SIDE TIRE EXPLODED. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS CALLED TO THE SCENE AND EXTINGUISHED THE FLAMES. A FIRE REPORT WAS FILED. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE MANUFACTURER AND LOCAL DEALER WERE NOT NOTIFIED AS OF YET. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.*DT*JB

Mileage: 60,000

REAR TAIL LIGHTS (DODGE CALLS IT THE 'RACE TRACK') HAD WATER INTRUDE INTO IT AND CAUSED THEM TO BURN OUT. I ENDED UP BUYING A USED ONE FROM A JUNK HARD AND FIXED WHERE I FEEL THE WATER WAS GETTING IN. SO FAR SO GOOD BUT IT'S A REQUIRED BY LAW TO HAVE IT WORKING AS IT'S THE ONLY PARKING LIGHTS ON THE BACK. L WOULD HAVE RATHER HAD MINE REPLACED WITH A NEW OE BUT NOT FOR $1500 FOR A NEW ONE.

Mileage: 45,000

FRONT DRIVER SIDE TURN SIGNAL INTERMITTENTLY STOPPED WORKING A COUPLE MONTHS AGO. IT EVENTUALLY STAYED OUT. THINKING THE BULB WAS BAD, BOTH FRONT TURN SIGNAL BULBS WERE REPLACED WITH LEDS. A FEW DAYS AGO, THE ISSUE RESURFACED AND CONTINUES TO INTERMITTENTLY WORK. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY WHILE MOVING OR STATIONARY. I HAVE SEEN OTHERS POST OF THIS SAME ISSUE AND I FEEL IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE RECALLED FOR REPAIR AT NO OWNERS EXPENSE.

Mileage: 42,000

FOR THE PAST 2 WEEKS THE LIFT GATE WILL OPEN ON IT'S ON UNLESS DOORS ARE LOCKED. LATELY THE DOORS WILL UNLOCK OWN THEIR OWN AND THE LIFT GATE WILL OPEN IMMEDIATELY. TODAY THE HOOD AJAR ALERT IS ON MY DASH WHICH IS A SECURITY GUARD FOR THE REMOTE START.

Mileage: 57,500

DEER WAS STRUCK BY VEHICLE WHILE TRAVELING ABOUT 50 MILES PER HOUR ON A CITY ROAD. SEVERE DAMAGE TO FRONT DRIVER SIDE TO INCLUDE UNDERCARRIAGE AND ELECTRICAL PARTS. AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY AND I FEEL LIKE THEY SHOULD HAVE. I WAS INFORMED BY THE TOW TRUCK DRIVER THAT THE AIRBAG SENSORS WERE DESTROYED AND THE BAG SHOULD HAVE GONE OFF.

THE TURN SIGNAL STOPPED WORKING FOR A FEW DAYS; THEN IT STARTED BACK WORKING FOR ABOUT A WEEK. THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED I WAS STATIONARY AT A LIGHT WAITING TO TURN. THEN IT STOPPED WORKING AGAIN, SO I TOOK MY VEHICLE IN TO GET IT FIXED. THE FRONT PART OF MY AIR CONDITIONING STOPPED WORKING ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. IT STOPS, THEN I DRIVE AND HAPPEN TO HIT UNEVEN ROAD AND IT WOULD JUMP BACK ON. AT THE MOMENT IT IS NOT WORKING. THE FRONT SECTION OF THE AIR CONDITIONING BREAKS DOWN OUT OF NOWHERE, BUT THIS HAS NEVER HAPPENED TO THE BACK PORTION OF MY AIR CONDITIONING. THIS OCCURRENCE HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY, OR WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION.

Mileage: 50,000

WENT TO HEAD HOME FROM VACATION AND STOPPED AT A STORE WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. VEHICLE ENGINE SPUTTERED THEN CUT OFF. TRIED TO START VEHICLE AND VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS TURNING OVER.HAD TO HAVE CAR TOWED 2 1/2 HOURS TO OUR DEALERSHIP. ONCE IN DEALERSHIP FOUND TIPM TO BE DEFECTIVE WHICH CAUSED THE FUEL PUMP TO BREAK. 16 DAYS LATER THE WATER PUMP FAILED. AT 28,000 MILES 3 MAJOR ENGINE PARTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED. NOT TO MENTION ALL THE OTHER FLAWS IN THIS VEHICLE. PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW ALSO WORKS INTERMITTENTLY. VEHICLE IS STILL IN SERVICE DEPARTMENT FOR THE SECOND TIME IN LESS THAN A MONTH.

A VEHICLE THAT WAS PREVIOUSLY BOUGHT BACK DUE TO THE ENGINE AND CONSOLE SHUTTING OFF WHILE IN OPERATION WAS SOLD TO ME BY BILL LUKE DODGE IN PHOENIX, AZ. I WAS INFORMED THAT THIS PROBLEM WAS FIXED AND THAT IT HAD BEEN ANALYZED AT A FACILITY FOR MONTHS PRIOR TO BEING PUT BACK ON THE MARKET. WHEN WE WENT TO TEST DRIVE IT THE SALESMAN DID EXPLAIN THAT IT HAD BEEN DIFFICULT TO START, BUT FURTHER EXPLAINED THAT THE SHOP WOULD FIX ANY ISSUES PRIOR TO IT BEING TURNED OVER TO US. HE STATED IT WAS A DEAD BATTERY PROBLEM. THE ENGINE LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. LATER THAT WEEK WE WERE DELIVERED THE VEHICLE AND INSURED THAT THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY PROBLEMS. THIS WAS MAY 1. ON MAY 3, MY WIFE DROVE TO A LOCAL BUSINESS, AND WHEN SHE RETURNED TO THE VEHICLE, IT WOULD NOT START. WHEN IT WOULD FINALLY START THE ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON, AND IT STAYED ON FOR TWO MORE CYCLES OF THE ENGINE. THIS HAPPENED ON TWO MORE OCCASIONS. ON MAY 6, WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURRED AGAIN WE WERE ABLE TO DRIVE IT TO A LOCAL AUTO SHOP AND HAVE THEM RUN THE CODE. THE READER DIAGNOSED THAT THERE WAS A U0100- "LOST COMMUNICATION WITH THE ENGINE CONTROL MODULE". I DROVE THE VEHICLE FOR SERVICE ON MAY 7. OVER THE COURSE OF THE NEXT SEVERAL WEEKS THE SERVICE PERSONNEL HAVE DISCOVERED NUMEROUS LOOSE WIRING HARNESSES, THOUGH THEY STILL HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO COMPLETELY REMEDY THE ISSUES. THIS ISSUE HAS ALSO BEEN REFERRED TO THE BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU.

Mileage: 2,600

WATER IS ENTERING LED TAIL LIGHTS ON REAR HATCH CAUSING LIGHTS TO FAIL WITHOUT WARNING

Mileage: 35,000

WOKE UP ONE MORNING AND STARTED MY CAR AND A GREY SCREEN COVERED THE SPEEDOMETER. I RESTARTED MY CAR AND NOW HALF OTHE SCREEN IS GRAYED OUT.

Mileage: 43,000

OUR 2017 DURANGO WITH 3000 MILES, HAD AN ENGINE LIGHT FOR OVERHEATING, QUICKLY THEREAFTER AN ENGINE LIGHT POPPED ON, TRANSMISSION LIGHT POPPED ON, ALL GAUGES THEN CEASED TO OPERATE AND THE CAR TURNED OFF AS WE WERE COASTING DOWN HILL (LUCKILY INTO SERVICE STATION). THE TRANSMISSION IS A DIAL AND THEN PUTTING IT IN NEUTRAL BECOMES AN ISSUE FOR THE TOW OR TO PUSH IT. THE ENGINE STARTING KNOCKING TERRIBLE.

Mileage: 3,350

THERE ARE CURRENTLY 2 RECALLS FOR MY VEHICLE THAT I WAS ONLY MADE AWARE OF DUE TO ME CALLING THE DEALSHIP FOR REPORTING A NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR UNDER CARRIAGE OF MY VEHICLE. I AM A CDL CLASS A HOLDER AND AFTER CALLING THE DEALERSHIP ON JUNE 2ND, THEY TOLD ME THEY CAN'T LOOK AT MY VEHICLE UNTIL JUNE 27TH. HAVING SAID THAT AND ME BEING A CDL CLASS A HOLDER, YOU CANNOT DRIVE A VEHICLE THAT IS A POSSIBLE HAZARD ON THE ROADWAY SO WHY IS THE DEALERSHIP TELLING ME I CAN DRIVE THE VEHICLE UNTIL THEN KNOWING THAT IT POSES AND IMMEDIATE THREAT TO ME, MY FAMILY, AND OTHER CITIZENS ON THE ROADWAY?

Mileage: 26,000

AFTER DRIVING HOME (APPROXIMATELY 25 MINUTES OF DRIVING), WHEN WE PUSHED THE BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE CAR, IT STAYED ON "RUN". WE PUSHED IT AGAIN, AND THE CAR TURNED OFF. AFTER OPENING THE DOOR, THE RADIO AND LIGHTS STAYED ON. EVEN AFTER CLOSING AND LOCKING THE CAR, THE RADIO STAYED PLAYING. AFTER SEARCHING THE HANDBOOK AND GOOGLING, WE DETERMINED THAT THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT TO TURN OFF WAS TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE MORE, WITH JUST THE CAR STAYING ON "RUN" AFTER PUSHING THE BUTTON, BUT AFTER PRESSING IT A COUPLE MORE TIMES, THE CAR AND RADIO TURNED OFF. AFTER CONTACTING THE DEALERSHIP, WE WERE TOLD THAT THEY HAVEN'T HEARD OF THIS HAPPENING. *TT *CN *JS

Mileage: 4,000

I HAVE REPORTED MY CAR NOT GOING IN THE GEAR SELECTED AND INSTEAD GOING INTO NEUTRAL OR PARK. IT HAS ALSO DRIVEN FORWARD WHEN IN PARK. THERE HAS ALSO BEEN ISSUES WITH THE AUTO PARK NOT ALWAYS WORKING IF DOOR IS OPENED AND THE CAR IS IN GEAR. NOW I AM BEING TOLD MY CAR EVEN THOUGH IT CAME WITH THIS SAFETY FEATURE WAS NOT SUPPOSED TO COME WITH IT, AND DODGE IS LOOKING TO REMOVE THIS FEATURE. DODGE HAS ALSO REFERRED TO THESE SAFETY ISSUES AS CHARACTERISTICS OF MY CAR. WHEN THEIR IS A SAFETY DEFECT IT CANT BE A CHARACTERISTIC THAT CAN BE OVERLOOKED. MY CAR NOW HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP FOR 37 DAYS NOW AND UNABLE TO BE REPAIRED. SEE ALSO ODI 11041523. *DSY *BF *TR

Mileage: 10,500

WHEN THE CAR IS PUT INTO PARK AND YOU EXIT IT WILL SOMETIMES STILL DRIVE FORWARD. WHEN SWITCHING INTO REVERSE OR PARK THE CAR SOMETIMES LOCKS UP AND WONT MORE. THE RPMS GO UP BUT ITS STILL AS IF ITS IN PARK. I HAD TO PUT MY CAR INTO REVERSE TO TRY TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT AND THE TRANSMISSION WOULD NOT ENGAGE INTO REVERSE. MY WIFE WAS REMOVING GROCERIES AND THE CAR STARTED TO MOVE FORWARD. SHE HAD TO GET INTO THE CAR AND PRESS THE BREAK. THESE CONDITIONS HAVE HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR WAS AT A STOP OR PARKED. I HAVE STARTED TO RECORD WHEN IT HAPPENS IF IT IS SAFE TO DO SO. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. IT ALSO HAS HAPPENED SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR ..UPDATED 12/13/17 *BF SEE ALSO ODI 11048876. *DSY UPDATED 9/13/18*JB

Mileage: 10,000

WHILE DRIVING MY 2017 DODGE DURANGO CITADEL (6980 MILES) HOME FROM WORK, I HAD THE ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL SET. I WAS IN A STEADY LINE OF TRAFFIC AND CARS LINED UP BEHIND ME. THE TRUCK STARTED TO STEADILY DECREASE IN SPEED, THERE WERE NO OBJECTS IN THE PATH OF THE VEHICLE AND THE CAR IN FRONT WAS AT LEAST 6 CAR LENGTHS AHEAD. WHEN I TRIED TO ACCELERATE THE VEHICLE NOTHING HAPPENED WHEN I TRIED TO ACCELERATE, I THEN ATTEMPTED TO BRAKE, MY BRAKES WERE NOT ACTIVE AS WELL. I PLACED MY HAZARD LIGHTS ON AND ATTEMPTED TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL SLIGHTLY TO MOVE MY VEHICLE FROM THE ROAD. HOWEVER, AT THIS TIME MY STEERING HAD TIGHTENED AND I COULD NOT MOVE MY VEHICLE. I ENDED UP COASTING TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ROAD UNTIL MY VEHICLE CAME TO A STOP. NOTHING WAS WORKING ON MY TRUCK. I COULD NOT OPEN MY DOOR OR LET MY WINDOWS DOWN. IT WAS LIKE I WAS TRAPPED INSIDE. FINALLY, I WAS ABLE TO GET MY WINDOWS DOWN AFTER 3 OR MORE MINUTES. WHEN THE TOWING SERVICE PICKED MY VEHICLE UP, THE BACK WINDOWS WOULD NOT ROLL UP AND MY LIFT GATE OPENED BY ITSELF. WE GOT THE LIFT GATE BACK DOWN MANUALLY. HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. IF YOU PLACED YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE, PUSHED THE START BUTTON IT JUST MADE A CLICKING NOISE. THE VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY AT THE DEALERSHIP AND WILL BE LOOKED AT TOMORROW, 9/26/17. THIS COULD HAVE BEEN A HORRIBLE, FATAL ACCIDENT. SOME TYPE OF INVESTIGATION NEEDS TO TAKE PLACE INTO THIS MATTER. MY SON AND I TRAVEL MANY MILES A WEEK AND THIS WOULD HAVE DEFINITELY BEEN FATAL IF WE WERE ON THE INTERSTATE ON AN INSIDE LANE.

Mileage: 6,890