2020 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID Unknown Or Other Problems

I recently found out through a Ford dealer that there was a recall on the door on my Ford escape. I never received anything in the mail. I had the issue fixed by my local mechanic and he used Ford parts. I would like A reimbursement.

The sunroof cover came down and blocked my rear visibility. It took a few attempts to get the cover back up because I need to see what is behind me for safety purposes. Then, when I was sesrching online for the solution, I realized a lot of people with 2020 - 2022 Ford Escapes were also having issues with the sunroof cover. It is quite dangerous for it to fall.

The car has a panoramic roof with automatic open/close sunshade that cover the interior of the glass. I was opening the sunshade to open the moon roof and the shade all of the suden came down and did not roll as intended and my visibility while I was driving was gone for a second until my wife helped out quickly so we do not crash. The problem is common for this car in the ford forums online and the dealerships are not concerend or applying any responsbility of the problem and the safety of it. there was no message or warning but it put myself and my family in danger. I went and got it inspected by the dealership but they did not take responsibilty.

Gear selector knob silver plating is flaking off and leaving sharp edges.the edges are sharp enough to cut your fingers

Whenever I shut off my 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid or when I am about to turn it on, a message appears on the touchscreen that says: "System off to save battery, please turn ignition off or start engine." I have replaced the battery but I get the same error message. When I took the car to Firestone, they performed a Diagnostic which did not indicate that there was anything wrong with the battery. When I spoke to a Hybrid Battery Specialist, he told me that the error message was for my "12 volt battery. It is a fairly common problem with your Escape. The Ford dealership may have a fix for it. It is possible that you just need to replace the 12 volt battery." My local Ford Dealership did not have a fix for it. Since this is a fairly common problem with the Ford Escape, I think a recall should be issued to have Ford rectify the issue.

Sunroof internal protective part lost its adhesion and fell while driving. Sunroof fabric came loose causing the sunroof to malfunction potentially causing more damage if you try to use it.

Liftgate latch does not work and trunk no longer opens after 55,000 miles. This is one fewer choice to exit the car in an emergency.

After the car was sitting in a parking lot without shade, unable to shift car out of park. Driver in seat, doors shut, seatbelt on--all normal circumstances; ready to drive. Brake pressed, rotary shifter stuck in P. No warnings or lights on dash Brake lights illuminated when pedal pushed. Temp on dash reads 103 degrees. After sitting with the car running for 30 minutes with AC on; attempted to shift as normal--shifter knob works. Have not called service center yet; plan to report as earliest convenience.

The round gear nob will not release out of PARK. It happens when it is 105°+. The car starts. Then I put my foot on the break and try to turn round gear shift nob from PARK to REVERSE and the nob will not move. Break lights work. All doors closed. Seatbelt on. I've been sitting in my car for about the last 25 minutes and using the air conditioner to try to cool down the console, dash and the gear shift knob and everything's nice and cold but I still cannot get the knob to turn. I have also turned off and restarted the engine about three times and still I am stuck here in a parking lot and the car's not going anywhere. This happened a year ago and I brought it into the a Sacramento Ford dealership but because it didn't get hot during their working hours they were not able to replicate the problem. So here I am again and it's after Ford hours and I normally get service at Folsom Lake Ford in California but how am I going to get them to replicate the issue and they say they can't replicate the same problem then how can I get this fixed. Meanwhile I'm stranded in a not so safe area with a lot of homeless people around that are having violent issues.

The car battery keeps being drained by modules staying active, this has affected my car so far twice in a year. This poses a safety issue as the car can get stuck and is inoperative. Ford has 2 service bulletins to repair the issue to reprogram the ABS module and PCM, they are SSM 49574 and SSM 49990. However Ford will not cover these repairs under extended warranty and although the issue initially occurred while under the 3yr/30k warranty but they didn’t have the service bulletins out at that time. This needs to be listed as recall issue as many people on Ford forum have complained about this issue for 2020 Ford Escape hybrids

Bracket for right check arm, defective weld spots

Unresolved under hood fire recall

Passenger side window has come loose and closes poorly with a loud klunking sound.

The door check arm welds on my passenger door have failed and my drivers side door is starting to fail. This is rendering my vehicle front doors unusable. In the event of an accident, being able to open the doors properly seems like it is a HUGE safety issue.

My car had been having no issues and working as expected. I left to depart for my destination and my driver's door made a terrible grinding noise and didn't open smoothly. There was resistance. I am able to drive the vehicle without issue, but I cannot open the driver's door all the way. My local Ford Dealership won't repair the door, citing that I need to wait for the recall from Ford. I'd like to have a fully functional door on the vehicle I purchased.

hi, I don't feel secure anymore driving this car with this fire recall, what can I do? Nobody want to buy that car with this failure. Best Regards [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

On 2/19/2024 i exited my vehicle and heard a popping noise. At that time I couldn't figure out where the noise came from. After existing the vehicle I attempted to close the door, unfortunately the door would not close property. It was clicking and the entire door wouldn't align properly without closing. when opening the door it also opens and hangs. Also the window does not roll more that 25% down and stops. Do if impact on either side, or a fire in the vehicle would prevent someone to escape I went to the internet and started researching the issue. I found many same model and year vehicles have the same issue. The issue is the 3 spot welds that hold the door fail and at the time of failure break the control arm that connects the door.

Ford Escape 2020 Hybrid 51,000 miles. Left front door pops and makes crunching noise when opened. The window does not go down now. just saw that repairs will be handled under customer satisfaction program. Door 'hinge' just started making noises. If FORD doesn't follow thru I will send another complaint.

The spot welds in the left front door at the check arm attachment points in the door assembly broke. It is available for inspection upon request. My safety is put at risk because the door check arm is broken and the window won’t roll down as a result. The door has nothing to stop it from closing or opening, and if I were to require my window to roll down in the event of an accident my safety is jeopardized. This issue was confirmed at my dealership and they even provided me with a Ford memo SSM 51553 that acknowledges this problem. No one besides the dealership has inspected it yet. There were no warning lamps or messages. The issue started when the door suddenly made a loud popping noise when opened or closed, along with some resistance doing so. Then without warning the noise stopped, but now the door flings open and closed without any catching and my window will only roll down about 3 inches before stalling out. The first popping noise started three days ago, then it stopped and the door became non functioning yesterday. Dealership acknowledged this is a known issue, but Ford refuses to cover it.

Door stop check broke in cold weather. No wide swinging of door and no weight on door has occurred. Dealership is stating entire door needs to be replaced and paint matched. Charges are estimated between $2500-$3100.

The driver's side door has been making creaking and popping sounds for over a year and most recently the driver's side door window only goes down half way. Took the vehicle to the Ford dealership where the car was purchased and informed them of the problem and the SSM 50150 for 2020-2021 Escapes. After inspecting the interior of the door, they found that the check arm had detached and that what was causing the noise and the window to not be able to lower. The vehicle has 29,347 and was purchased in May 2020. They said the vehicle is out of warranty on the date (not mileage) and would not be covered although it's apparent the failure was occurring over several months.

Yesterday when I opened my driver side door there was a grinding/popping noise. I looked on-line and saw that it is the door check defect on the 2020 and 2021 escapes that is an issue with the welding. I called the dealership today and they said because it is over the milage for the warranty that it will not be covered. Ford issued a Technical Service Bulletin TSB-SSM 50150 but there is not a recall and there are several class action lawsuits regarding the issues. I was told to file a report with your agency.

While driving the car on a busy fast-flowing road the message "Stop Safely Now" appeared on the dashboard. The car lost power and could only be driven at 20 mph and would not speed up. I pulled over and when I stopped but did not power off, the car would not start moving again. After turning the car off for five minutes it drove again properly with no issue. This is the second time this has happened in two months.

Drivers side door spot welds for the door check bracket broke off the door having me to unable to close the door as I was out Christmas shopping at the Mall. I had to drive back home where I could park the car in a safe location and figure out what happened. Upon inspecting the drivers side door and watching videos of the same issue that other Ford Escape drivers have experienced I used a 6" wheel grinder to cut of the door check bracket in order to be able to close the door. It was dark at this time other wise I would have taken the door panel out and removed the complete bracket and door check. Ford is aware of this situation and has no recall on this. Not buying anymore Ford Products!

2020 Ford escape with 37k miles The drivers door started making horrible noises. And became difficult to close properly. All of the spot welds that hold the limiting arm bracket in place have broken and now the arm hangs loose. Window will only roll down part way. This all started 4 weeks ago! I know there is already an NTHSA investigation into this issue. I want to help push it forward to force ford to issue a recall and develop a solution to this defect that is clearly caused by poor manufacturing processes.

My vehicle is exhibiting the issues described in SSM 50150. The driver's side door spot welds have failed on my 2020 Ford Escape hybrid. The issue began as a creaking sound as I opened and closed my driver's side front door. The door was also stiff and difficult to operate. 2 days later the door became even more difficult to open and close. A day after that the door welds failed. After the weld failure the door moved freely except the door catch would jam due to it floating. To allow proper door operation of the door the catch had to be unbolted at the body. After the failure I noticed the door panel around the area of the welds is pushed outward and no longer flush with the door along the edges. Also, since the issue began, the window strains whenever I try to raise and lower it and the window cannot be lowered all the way. My assumption is that the catch is tied to the window track. The window track and door catch appear to be associated with the broken welds. I brought the matter to the Ford dealership's attention, citing SSM 50150. They advised me that the vehicle was out of warranty, that the repair was not part of any mandatory recall and that the estimated repair cost was $2,083.14. They noted the possibility of Ford contributing a couple hundred dollars to defray the repair costs.

My door sounds like it is going to fall off. It is making a very loud popping noise when I open it the whole way.

Driver’s Door Check Bracket is being stressed. It sounds like it is breaking. Situation has one on very quickly this past week.

Driver side door has started to make a popping sound when opening and closing. It appears this is coming from inside the door at the door limiter. I am fearing this part could potentially fully break and become unfunctional causing door to pop open and cause potential injury to myself or other drivers on the roadways. Research has shown this is a consistent problem with this year and model vehicle.

When hill assist is in use at the end of the hill accelerates and kicks . You have to keep decent distance from other vehicles or you will hit them

My ford has been in no accidents or anything. One day the door started creaking. Making a CHUNK noise. After a few days of use there was a loud crack and you can see the weld spots have fallen out and the door no longer sits flush. It's the door, it won't close properly that seems like a safety risk. The door is literally falling off. Ford inspected and told me the price to fix would be 4500 bucks. No warnings.

broken spot welds in the left front door at the check arm attachment point in the door assembly. Car is unsafe to drive. Could result I in a door inadvertently opening while driving.

I’ve replaced three times my rear window regulators on both sides. This part is only available thru Ford and there isn’t a 3rd party part. You roll the window down and the regulator stops working/breaks. This has already cost me over $1000 on parts/labor.

There is a weld broken in door arm on driver's door and now driver's side window is not working.

Drivers side door weld has failed at one point.

Dealer advised it is a bracket inside the door that has broken, possibly due to broken welds holding said bracket. The Dealer advised that this is an unfixable issue, and the entire door needs replaced. If it is not fixed, the dealer said it will cause other issues with the door, possibly leaving it inoperable. Dealer also confirmed this is a very common issue with this model and that it is not covered. The Dealer said I will need to repair at my own expense, with an estimated cost of $2,000 or more.

My front left drivers side door wouldnt close, I noticed the spot welds holding the door strap component in place had broke free and was now being pushed into the door shell. I took my car to the dealership and they said it is not covered. I have since looked on line, on how to repair this defect and see this is a known issue to the make and model year of my vehicle.

Vehicle would not shift out of park from a cold start. Dial shifter would not rotate. Vehicle could start but could not be driven. Problem has not been confirmed by dealer or independent service center. There were no warnings. Vehicle had been sitting in the sun in a parking lot on an 89 degree day for two hours. Cooling the vehicle cabin with A/C for 1/2 hour allowed the dial shifter to operate.

THE "SPOT WELD" ON THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR FAILED NOT ALLOWING THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR TO OPEN OR CLOSE. THIS PROBLEM IS OCCURING ON BOTH THE FORD EDGE AND FORD ESCAPE ACCORDING TO JARRETT'S REPAIR PEOPLE. MINE IS A 2020 ESCAPE AND CANNOT BE REPAIRED. FORD WILL NOT ALLOW IT, AND WILL ONLY FIX IT IF IT FALLS UNDER THE 3 YR, 36000 PART OF THE WARRANTY. MINE IS OUTSIDE OF THE 36 MONTH WARRANTY AND THEY WANT TO BILL ME OVER $2000 TO REPAIR IT BY BUYING A NEW DOOR, NOT ACCEPTABLE. THIS IS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT AND FORD SHOULD FIX IT, WELDS SHOULD NOT FAIL.

I was opening the front driver’s side door, the door failed to open completely. I had to forcefully pull the door handle for the door to open and heard a loud clicking noise. Took car to dealer and became aware that the latch was welded incorrectly and welded area broke. The dealer stated that the front driver’s side door needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired because the door cost is $2,500 and my warranty had just expired 4-30-23. I called Ford customer service to tell them the door check broke out of door to see if they had some assistance for the cost. They said they did not. The failure mileage was 32,100. You can see with the pictures attached the right front door bracket is not broke and the Drivers side front door bracket is broke with three welding holes that broke off the bracket. The bracket cost $47 to $50, but they say the whole door needs to be replaced. $2500 cost is not fair to a owner when a small part breaks with the only fix and whole new door. If all four of my doors break soon the cost would be $10,000.00. This needs to be considered a RECALL so Ford can fix and bare the cost for a part that has gone bad and there are many complaints on this same issue. Thanks for looking into it.

The driver's side front check arm welds inside the door broke loose, and the door can't be closed.

On the drivers side doir, the 3 spot welds for the door stop failed. Now it makes a horrible cracking sound. I was told the whole door needs to be replaced and I'm out of warranty. I've had the vehicle just over 3 years.

On June7th I was driving home in my 2020 hybrid escape when the motor quit and the car came to a stop, then smoke started coming out from under the hood, I opened the hood and flames shot out at the back side of the motor on the passenger side, oil was leaking on to the road and on fire, I called the fire department, when they got there all the fire finally went out as the oil burned up. I had the car towed that day to Purchase ford in Mayfield KY. where it is still at. At first I was told this would be a warranty covered job, the car had 37500 miles, the power train and motor are good for 60,000 miles. It was apparent this would take a long time to fix, and I told Ford I did not want the car back as it would be depleted in value with a history of a fire, In July I got a recall 22V484 for the very reason my car caught on fire. Come to find out the motor failed and thru a rod and a hole in the block let the oil leak out and catch on fire. I asked for a loaner but they did not have one, I rented a car and Ford finally paid for most of it but I'm still out $500.00, I have returned the rental car. I have made five months of payment on this car without having it. At first Ford said they would do a buy back, then they emailed me saying this was denied due to KY. guidelines? I also asked for another car of equal value and that will not happen. Finally Ford told me to accept the repairs on my car and take it back or they were closing my case. My case # is [XXX], my contact was customer service rep . [XXX]. The car has a value of about $25000.00 if it had not caught on fire. I feel Ford should reimburse me for my payments or give me another car of equal value or make up the difference I will lose if I take the car back. I also think they should provide me a loaner while my car is being fixed. Thank You [XXX] INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

The contact owns a 2020 Ford Escape. The contact stated that upon opening the front driver's side door, the track arm of the door failed to catch, causing the contact to hold the door by the door handle. The contact stated that the failure had been reoccurring. The dealer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle had to be repaired out-of-pocket as the vehicle was out of warranty. The contact referenced Ford Technical Service Bulletin Number: 10184651. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The failure mileage was approximately 48,000.

Mileage: 48,000

Windows operating intermittently. Repeatedly the dashboard flashes "Cross Traffic System Fault", "Blind Spot System Fault", "Blind Spot Left/Right Sensor Fault" occasionally "Cannot Access Memory While Driving". The lower center display panel on the instrument panel goes completely BLACK, and one cannot operate the defroster or air conditioner. The problem occurs intermittently, but when it starts it is more or less continuous for long periods of time. Ford (DeMontrond Ford) has now worked on the problem at least seven times, but safety issues do not stay fixed. Date below is when most recent series of issues occurred.

Repeatedly the dashboard flashes "Cross Traffic System Fault", "Blind Spot System Fault", "Blind Spot Left/Right Sensor Fault" occasionally "Cannot Access Memory While Driving". The lower center display panel on the instrument panel goes completely BLACK. The problem occurs intermittently, but when it starts it is more or less continuous for long periods of time. Ford (DeMontrond Ford) has now worked on the problem at least six times.

2020 Ford Escape Titanium Hybrid - Battery does not start. Occurrence: twice at 15K and 21K. Total mileage on vehicle: 21K. Turning the ignition key of the Escape Hybrid, the electric motor is supposed to be activated. The electric motor, in turn, starts the gasoline engine. At this point, there is total failure.

This is a Bluetooth issue. When you’re talking on the phone, after period of time you begin to sound like a robot. You have to take your phone off of Bluetooth and put it back on Bluetooth taking your eyes off the road. Many times it’s while you’re on the highway. My husband works for a company who purchased 600 cars for their last project and everyone he knows has the same issue. It’s definitely widespread. The Ford company says you have to have a radio person to deal with it and they don’t have a radio person on staff at some locations and others they’re only there for certain days of the week. this is a dangerous situation.

Began driving from a parked position slowly down a one way residential street, Stop Safely Now alert came on and the vehicle stopped in the middle of the street and would not restart. Was unable to shift to neutral to move from the blocked roadway, and had to have another motorist jump the 12v battery to get the ignition button to operate. Took the vehicle to auto zone to have battery tested and it showed starter and battery were fine. This is a significant safety issue as I have to drive the vehicle 240 miles home tomorrow via interstate highways and I'm terrified the problem will persist before I can get it home and to my local dealership.

My car, at the time was a moving vehicle at a NYC parkway intersection. malfunctioned. Dashboard, navigation radio went black. Navigation panel shows vehicle network communications error. car stopped moving.gear can shift. hazard light or hatch can turn one. Once dealer restarted the car, system generated notification listed powertrain to restraint control and four wheel drive failures. But phone still kept connecting to car on Bluetooth. This caused me to have to keep dialing back to 911, AAA, Ford roadside and dealer service because call receiver kept thinking the call was not connecting So they would disconnect the call. hill assist and pre-collision failure reporter in 3/21. Sync failure was reported to sync support and ignored. I was told CRM was down and call back later. Apple product and level 3 had update its software to address it. It is one thing an old car stalls. We have police, roadside and Good Samaritan to help a single woman to pull off the toad. It is abominable that safety features malfunction. It is even more horrid when the paid Ford roadside assist’s response at two calls was “call911” when I asked them to walk me through recovery protocol. When I called my dealer service (queens Ford 7 miles away from incident location), I was told to look for backup key slot, when I could not locate it at the described location, I asked for manual page number, I was told to call roadside or sales department to express my dissatisfaction) I found the manual page. The location identified does not provide a place to insert key. It took almost two hours before Ford contacted me about tow. If NHTSA does not look into this there is no justice. My 2020 escape was purchased in sept 2020 with extended warranty. It has only 9000 mi one it. Dealer offered a loaner. But kept me waiting because “it was too busy”. I refused to sign loaner gsreemtn, they threaten to report car stolen. Auto generated report still says car is healthy

On Dec. 27, 2019, I purchased a new 2020 Ford Escape from Walnut Creek Ford in California. 1.Within days I noticed that the car would, without warning, begin to shake violently when going down steep hills. I brought the car back to the dealer. but they couldn’t diagnose any problem. After the 4th return trip to the dealer, one of the technicians found a Ford repair bulletin that referenced the shaking issue. He fixed the car. 2.The 2nd problem was on July 9, 2021 about 1pm. I was traveling at 55mph on a freeway when the dashboard screens went totally black. There was no map, no speedometer, nothing at all on the screens. The directional signals wouldn’t work. The air conditioner went off with the temperature at 102 degrees. As I pulled into a parking lot, I realized the windows were all locked. I tried to turn off the engine with no results. The gear shift knob was frozen. My car has now been in the shop at Walnut Creek Ford for 41 days.

After a few days of driving on rainy days, one day at mornging, my car stopped working and I couldn't start it anymore. Various alerts about handbrake, brakes, “stopping the vehicle” and more were appearing. I called for assistance, and Ford send me a Truck crane. They couldn't put the unit in neutral so they could move it to the lift (first problem). When I took it to the Ford agency they checked it and after a week they accused me of putting my car in a big puddle. They told me that the hybrid battery connectors were wet. Why??? When he showed them to me, I realized that these orange connectors are positioned at the bottom of the vehicle, just 9 inches from the ground! I explained that I had not entered any deep puddle, but this water was due to normal driving on rainy days, which splashes in a normal way from the tires and the vehicles on the sides. I said, my car should be able to drive on rain, as the rain is something natural and normal. My car is in diagnostic in the Ford agency. They don’t want to pay warranty because they said rain is a natural phenomenon. This means that with puddle of water as small as 3 inches, water can get into these connectors, get wet, damage the hybrid battery, the unit and possibly cause an accident. If one day You encountered a slight 9-inch flood, it would be a sure breakdown! Ford should review why they put these connectors on the bottom of the unit, without protection against water, without a hermetic seal and with the risk of breaking down the system and the car completely. Sorry, I am from Mexico, but this car is sell and produced in USA and I consider important to check this big mistake in security and in the design of the unity.

Yesterday, July 25, 2021, I had a really unnerving experience driving my 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid. As I was about a half mile into my drive, a “Stop Safely Now” warning popped up, and the car slowed to about 15 MPH. I pulled over on the side of the road and the vehicle simply stopped. I couldn’t start it, and the engine and battery lights were red. The start button was flashing green. I sat there, with traffic passing by, unable to start the car or turn it off, as it appeared it was in accessory mode. I called Astoria Ford and talked to Greg, but it was Sunday, so no service available. I was fixing to have it towed and was prepared to wait an hour for the tow truck. After 20 minutes, a message popped up that said the car was going into a “System off to save battery mode…”. I was finally able to shut it off. A couple minutes later, I was able to restart the car, and drove immediately to the Astoria Ford dealership. The potential danger to this vehicle getting rear-ended seems great, and is a known issue with Ford now. Since I’ve owned the vehicle (a few months now), the car, when driving slowly down a hill and coming to a stop, will lurch and shudder, which leads me to believe that there could be some electrical and/or power train problems. It seems that there definitely should be a recall before something serious happens to those of us who own this vehicle.

LIFT GATE RANDOMLY CLOSED HIT ME IN THE HEAD WHEN I AS IN THE BACK OF THE CAR.THELIFT GATE RANDOMLY OPENED WHEN I WALKED BEHIND THE CAR.

Mileage: 55

I WAS DRIVING AND ALL OF A SUDDEN MY 2020 FORD ESCAPE SE SPORT HYBRID FLASHED 'STOP SAFELY NOW' AND MY CAR ESSENTIALLY DIED ON ME. FORTUNATELY, I ONLY APPROACHING A GATE AT ABOUT 20MPH TO EXIT A PARKING LOT SO I WASN'T GOING FAST. HOWEVER, I COULD T RESTART THE CAR OR MOVE IT FOR A FEW MINUTES. AS SUCH, I HAD TO LEAVE THE CAR IN THE MIDDLE OF THE LANE UNTIL IT WOULD FINALLY START. IT HAS ONLY 6400 MILES ON IT. THIS HAS NOT HAPPENED BEFORE, BUT FROM READING OTHER FORUMS IT SEEMS TO BE SOMEWHAT PREVALENT.

Mileage: 6,400

PANORAMIC VISTA ROOF PANEL IMPROPERLY ALIGNED FROM FACTORY WHICH ALLOWED RAIN WATER TO FLOW TO INTERIOR AND DAMAGE HEADLINER / WET ELECTRONICS OF VEHICLE DUE TO FRONT EDGE OF THE SLIDING GLASS PANEL NOT FULLY CONTACTING THE MARGIN SEAL.

Mileage: 790

WAS DRIVING ON STRRET WHEN CAR STARTED DECELERATING FOR NO REASON. I PUSHED ON GAS PEDAL BUT CAR SLOWED TO A STOP IN MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC. EVERYTHING RUNNING BUT GAS PEDAL NOT RESPONDING. HAD TO TURN CAR ON/OFF FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE AGAIN.

Mileage: 1,432

THE TOP OF DASH BOARD IN ITS ENTIRETY BUT SPECIFICALLY THE TRIM PIECE AROUND THE HEADS-UP DISPLAY ON SPECIFIC TRIM/MODES CREATES A REFLECTION UPON THE WINDSHIELD, PARTICULARLY DIRECTLY IN THE DRIVERS MAIN SIGHT LINE, WITH SUCH LOW OPACITY IT MAKES DRIVING VISIBILITY DIFFICULT. ADDITIONALLY THE TRIM PIECE IS SMOOTH PLASTIC, WHEREAS THE DASH ITSELF IS TEXTURED. THIS OCCURS PRIMARILY DURING THE DAY DURING ANY LIGHTING CONDITION OUTSIDE AND IS INCREASED WITH DIRECT SUNSHINE UPON THE VEHICLE.

Mileage: 2,200

BRAND NEW 2020 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID CAR INTERMITTENTLY STOPS AND CEASES. SEEMS SOMETHING WRONG WITH ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THIS HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH DOWN RESIDENTIAL STREET. CAR IS INACCESSIBLE AND CANT EVEN GET INTO NEUTRAL. TRIED DISENGAGING ELECTRICAL BATTERY. HAD TO LET SIT FOR 15+ MINS AND CAR SEEMS TO REBOOT ITSELF. THEN YOU CAN START AND PUT INTO DRIVE/REVERSE ETC BUT ACCELERATION DOES NOT WORK AND ONLY IDLES. THIS IS 2ND TIME HAPPENING. FIRST TIME, WE LET IT SIT FOR 30 MORE MINS AND SEEMS IT ELECTRICALLY REBOOTED ITSELF AND CAR WORKED. WAS ABLE TO DRIVE TO DEALERSHIP. THEY HAD IT 1 WEEK AND SAID ITS FINE NO COMPUTER ISSUES. [XXX]. (8/19/20). NOW, 8/28/2020 THIS HAPPENED AGAIN. THIS VEHICLE IS NOT SAFE AND WILL BE LOOKING FOR A REPLACEMENT VEHICLE. WE HAD A 2012 ESCAPE THAT DUE TO A MANUFACTURING DEFECT CAUGHT ON FIRE ON HIGHWAY IN 2014. FORD IS NOT PUTTING OUT SAFE PRODUCTS AND NEED TO BE INVESTIGATED FOR THESE FAULTS AS THESE ARE SERIOUS ENDANGERMENT TO THEIR CUSTOMERS LIVES. PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

Mileage: 1,700

WHILE STEADILY DRIVING AT 40 MPH ON A TWO-LANE HIGHWAY, I SUDDENLY LOST ENGINE POWER AND SIMULTANEOUSLY RECEIVED A WARNING MESSAGE ON THE DRIVER'S DISPLAY TO STOP VEHICLE SAFELY NOW. I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE TO WHERE ROAD HAD A SHOULDER, BUT THE CAR'S SPEED WAS LIMITED TO MAYBE 10 MPH EVEN WITH THE ACCELERATOR PRESSED. (THE CAR IS A HYBRID, BUT HAD ONLY VERY LIMITED PROPULSIVE POWER IN WHAT SEEMED TO BE AN ELECTRIC MODE.) THE GAS ENGINE DID NOT KICK IN EVEN WHEN THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED. AFTER UNSUCCESSFULLY TRYING TO TROUBLESHOOT THE PROBLEM USING THE OWNER'S MANUAL, I PRESSED THE START/STOP BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE CAR, THEN PRESSED IT AGAIN TO RESTART. THE GAS ENGINE STARTED, I REGAINED THE ABILITY TO ACCELERATE, AND THE CAR APPEARED TO FUNCTION NORMALLY. SUBSEQUENTLY, THE CAR WAS TOWED TO TWO DEALERSHIPS TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THE MANUFACTURER HAS BEEN CONTACTED AND THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN "ESCALATED" AS EFFORTS CONTINUE TO FURTHER DIAGNOSE AND THEN CORRECT THE PROBLEM. AT THE TIME OF THE INCIDENT, THE CAR'S HEATER WAS ON, AS WERE THE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS. THE RADIO WAS PROBABLY ON. THE NAVIGATION SCREEN WAS DISPLAYED BUT WE WERE NOT USING THE GPS TO NAVIGATE. MY CELL PHONE WAS NOT ON, BUT IT WAS LYING ON THE CONSOLE. (I BELIEVE THERE IS A LARGE CELL PHONE TOWER WITHIN SEVERAL HUNDRED YARDS OF WHERE THE INCIDENT OCCURRED.) THE CAR HAD LESS THAN 500 MILES ON IT. ONE OF THE DEALERSHIPS RECEIVED A DIAGNOSTIC CODE P1AOC WHEN TESTING THE CAR. I WAS TOLD THIS MEANS THAT A "SYSTEM OVERLOAD" WAS DETECTED. IN RESPONSE TO THE CODE, I WAS TOLD THAT THE SYSTEM WAS "RESET" AND THEN CHECKED FOR UPDATES. I AM AWAITING FURTHER NEWS FROM THE SECOND DEALERSHIP.

Mileage: 475