2018 FORD FUSION Unknown Or Other Problems

Shift actuator wouldn’t go into gear I was stranded a few times had to be towed twice. I’ve found a plastic bushing that showed a $4.00 part could be responsible. Deadly for us disabled Vietnam veterans . I can’t walk. Maine has 200 vehicles with the same issues nationwide who knows supposedly the actuator will not be made by ford motors until February 2026. I’m 76 years old this is a hazard I can’t afford to buy another car. Please help us. Or get stranded in the middle of nowhere freezing cold Thank you

What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? The APIM (Accessory Protocol Interface Module) appears to have failed. The vehicle's infotainment/play screen is completely blank and unresponsive. This module controls key systems including climate control, navigation, hands-free calling, and the backup camera. The component is available for inspection if needed. How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? This failure compromises several safety-critical functions. I am unable to adjust climate settings, use GPS navigation, make hands-free emergency calls, or see through the backup camera. These features are essential for safe driving, especially in adverse weather or while reversing. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? Not yet confirmed by a dealer, but the issue has been consistent. I have attempted both soft and hard resets, and verified the fuses are good. All symptoms point to an APIM failure. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? No formal inspection has been done by the manufacturer, police, or insurance. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? There were no warning lamps or messages. The issue started intermittently about two months ago. Resets worked temporarily, but the screen is now completely unresponsive.

Went to back up to park . The shifter would not properly work kept going back to park .I couldn't get it into neutral to push it. No warnings. Had to 1st pay for towing from where it happened to a parking space. Then called roadside service to take it to Bay Lincoln in Panama Beach.i will send the results from dealership. It could of been real serious and caused a bad accident maybe even death. I know ford had a recall on a earlier model fusion for shifter cable. If it's the same issue I want reimbursement.

The car issued no warning, lights or messages prior to the damage. My [XXX] son was driving and the car started shaking which really scared him as he’s a new driver. I would say the safety of him and other drivers on the road were definitely put in danger. The vehicle has been inspected by a Ford dealership. They stated it had a broken flex plate and short block. Broken Flexplate; Diagnostic $210.00 Parts $1,345.86 (Flexplate, transmission fluid pump, filter, one time use parts) Labor $2,600.00 ($200.00 x 13.0hrs) Sales Tax $125.84 Total $4,281.70 Short Block replacement; Diagnostic $145.00 Parts $2,193.64 (Short block engine/kit, spark plugs, one time use parts) Labor $4,480.00 ($200.00 x 22.4hrs) Alignment $159.95 Sales Tax $205.11 Total $7,183.70 Tow Bill $140.00 INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

My dashboard cover is peeling, it is made from leather, it is interfering with the heads up diplat, automatic lighting system and forward braking safety components, I have brought this to Ford to try to have them repair it dash but I am always told that the piece is considered trim and is not under warranty, I have also checked with Ford Fusion message boards and it seems there is a TSB on the exact 2017 model. Ford has basically told me to have it repaired at a automobile leather restoration company, I have gone to 2 different repair shops and was told it can’t be repaired it has to be replaced. I called Ford Corporation customer service and because they have no outstanding recalls on my vehicle they told me to report this to you

Leaking coolant

A frozen rear-view camera display image while in reverse

Unknown. Car will not start.

Unknown. Car will not start, dashboard says overheating, white smoke was coming out of muffler but stopped and etc.

The engine is losing coolant on a daily basis; I keep gallons of it my car to keep it from running out. The safety risk is the vehicle hoses burst while driving in rush hour traffic and causing a worse delay and maybe injury to myself and passengers. I had the vehicle checked by an independent service station and they recommend a head gasket replacement or engine replacement, and the dealer just brushed me off with the head gasket may need replacing but it is not a recall item. It has not been inspected by any other agency. The check engine light is an on and off again problem -- and that's when the coolant is low the light comes on and when I refill it, it goes off. The vehicle coolant system is losing coolant every two days -- as of this date 4/28/2025, smoke comes from the oil filler cap area but none from the tailpipe. This is a frustrating situation and lawsuit waiting to happen situation that could easily be avoided -- They know it's a problem and want the consumer to reveal this frustrating and potential mega colossal problem to grow out of control.

Driver was driving at 55 miles per hour engine light illuminated. Car began to sputter and not drive. Ford Dealership mechanic,” DRIVEABILITY CONCERN, CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE WILL NOT GO OVER 40 MPH AND HAS A MISFIRE PLEASE CHECK AND ADVISE. verfied engine is misfiring, hooked up scan tool and ran dets and found p0302 and p0316, #2 cylinder misfire and misfire and the first 1000 rev, ran a relitive compression test and found cylinder #2 is 25% diference than the other cylinders. pulled spark plug and put a boar scope in the cylinder and found a exhaust valve is missing a piece of the valve and the engine has ate the valve. recommend a ford long block” Owner was quoted $8553.37 for a used engine. Happened at 95,405 car is not drivable and unfixed. When owner asked what was the main cause the answers was “these cars just have bad engines”

Car will crank, but will not move into gear. Getting an service message "Shift System Fault". Some days it will move and other days (like today) it will not. I believe the 2018 fusion (my car) was missed from the list of recalls for this service message. I contacted a Ford dealer near me. Either they don't have a transmission tech or it will take days before my car can be looked at.

Was driving and car started overheating. Looking at coolant levels, they were low. Refilled coolant and car started fine. Next day driving the vehicle, the engine shut down completely. Took the vehicle to Parks Ford dealership in Hendersonville NC to find the problem. I received a call from a service representative and he said there is a coolant intrusion into the cylinder or cylinders and the engine needs to be replaced. I asked to check for recalls and he stated none were found. I did my own research and found many vehicles with the 1.5 liter Ecoboost engine have had this issue and have had a recall in the past. I. Short, Ford has said they will not have my vehicle fixed due to the fact the 3 year warranty has expired and or 85,000 miles have been passed. I have financed this vehicle starting [XXX]. As of now my vehicle has almost 110,000 miles. Doing more research into this Ford has offered a fix for this. A new midi small block replacement and head gasket replacement. Doing more research into this, I have found the vehicle engine could possibly catch on fire if the coolant intrusion is not corrected. The Ford dealership quoted me $9,000 without tax to replace the engine. This just isn't doable. How can this not be a safety issue if the vehicle can and will shut off while driving and potentially catch on fire? Ford should replace the flawed engine design that they have been very well aware of. I am still making payments on this vehicle to own and I cannot risk driving it because it is used to transport my children and my wife, not with the safety factors involved. Help to have the manufacturer flawed design fixed to the updated design, that has no issues of the same, would help blue collard individuals a tremendous amount. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

On 4 occasions, the car has shut off while moving and in traffic. A dashboard message appears, saying "full accessory mode". After coming to a stop, the car will immediately restart. My obd reader shows no error codes. The car has 18,000 miles on it and this problem occurs randomly. It happened first when the car was a few weeks old. I took it to dealer and they found no problem. Ot has happened 3 times since then. This problem has been reported at least 15 times on the ford fusion sport forum.

EVAP system leak. Vapor leak causes car to not start after putting gas in the tank. It takes several tries before the car starts up. Engine light stays on which causes car fob not to auto start.

While driving, the low oil pressure warning light illuminated on the dashboard. Within 5-10 minutes, the vehicle began to lose power and struggled to maintain speed. Over the next 15 minutes, the vehicle's performance continued to deteriorate, eventually shutting down completely. Despite multiple attempts, the vehicle was unable to be restarted, the vehicle has not been inspected and the vehicle never gave any prior warning of potential failure this was the frist and only issue I had with this vehicle I had to have the vehicle towed home due to not starting

Shift sys fault message appeared on screen. Car will not go out of park. Shifter bushings are no good. Was told if this had happened while driving my car could not be put in park and could result in a crash.

My vehicle has an engine defect from the manufacturer Ford. I was told it is a coolant intrusion from the original design of the head of the vehicle engine. I have had it inspected by Bell ford in AZ however, they will not take responsibility of the defect and saying I am liable for repair. I am confused if it’s a defect in a design from a manufacturer how I am responsible for such said repair the check engine light came on, and I took it in for a diagnosis, no prior issues to the vehicle whatsoever ability wise I’ve contacted customer service and they said there is nothing they can do to contact you guys

Went to store and placed vehicle in park Whe returned vehicle would not shift into gear Shift fault warning on dash see owners manual Had to have vehicle towed to dealer for repairs Informed bushing had failed

The entire computer system does not function. The screen, radio, everything has turned completely off in the middle of driving on the highway. It’s concerning what this will cause at some point. It used to do this intermittently, now it’s completely off and I’ve had it to multiple mechanics who have checked everything thoroughly and cannot find anything wrong. Two mechanics told me in 20-30 years as a mechanic theyve only seen this once or twice but couldn’t be fixed. I owe a ton of money on my car, it my only transportation for myself kids and elderly mother, my daughter is a new driver and having everything electrical shut down while driving is going to cause an accident and panic.

Trunk pops open randomly often. It’s popped open while driving and will cause accidents if items fall out, it’s happened multiple times without any possibility of button being hit.

car knob shifts into reverse or drive without being touched when sitting in park at random times, have nearly hit basketball pole due to being unprepared to hit break. The knob makes a robotic type sound, an automated turning type sound & switches without being touched, has happened several times but not every time

In November 2023, within 2 weeks of having all my oil/other fluids changed/checked/replenished for normal maintenance, the engine light to my 2018 Ford Fusion Titanium with EcoBoost engine came on suddenly. I let the car cool for several hours, then looked under the hood and could see I still had ample engine coolant. So I called my nearest official Ford Dealership/Service center, and their soonest appointment was a week or so away. The day of, I could not start the car. After dozens of attempts to start the car, it finally did start, but would not accelerate more than 5-10mph, and a warning message: "Reducing power to lower engine temperature" - but this made no sense as the engine had not been running at all for 12+ hours overnight. When I finally got the car towed to the Ford dealership, they took multiple days to diagnose, even though I had scheduled this appointment more than a week prior. Finally the Director of Service at this Ford Dealership texted me: "VERIFIED CONCERN. SCANNED FOR CODES AND FOUND P021D P0303 P0316 P06E9 P1026 P1285 P1299 P164D. LIVE DATA POWER BALANCE SHOWED DEAD MISFIRE ON CYL 3 AND MULTIPLE MISFIRE ON ALL OTHER CYLINDERS. FOUND COOLANT RESERVOIR EMPTY. REMOVED CYL 3 IGNITION COIL AND SPARK PLUG AND FOUND COOLANT INTRUSION IN CYL 3. WILL NEED TO REMOVE AND REPLACE LONG BLOCK ENGINE ASSEMBLY WITH NEW." The quote for this was over $12,000 and non-negotiable. Other texts from Ford's Director of service: "The 1.5 and 2.0 have a bad design... EcoBoost are known to have issues" ... "Even if you took care of the head gasket odds are the engine would still have failed down the road." Ford ADMITTED to me by text to foreknowledge of MAJOR engine design flaws, EXTREME safety concerns, likelihood of engine fires. As has been documented by thousands of other Ford owners, this INACTION by Ford could have cost me, my RideShare passengers, anyone in the car, OUR LIVES. I now have no car, no job, and no way to pay off my auto loan. HELP!

My cars coolant is leak and I don't know where it goes. It overheats and the coolant continually needs to be added. The coolant cap has cracked twice and its is hard to find a replacement cap and we can't drive the car. I have taken it to two auto repair shops, and they said the issue can NOT be fixed. I am in fear of it overheating all the time. This is causing me fear and I believe it is dangerous and I am stuck paying for a car I can't drive.

The rotary dial gear shifter has intermitantly malfunctioned for 6 months in two ways. 1) When the rotary dial gear shifter is put into park, very often it won't move out of park. Won't go to D, R, or N.In the beginning I was using the key to the car to stick in a slot in the center counsel and that would pop it out of park. This worked for a few months. Since then I need to hit it firmly with a fist to get it to pop out of park. Sometimes I need to turn the car off and wait 10, 20, 30 minutes before hitting it with a fist will get it out. 2) The second way it malfunctions is that when it is in park sometimes it moves to Drive all on its own. I will exit the car after putting it in park. When I come back it won't start because it is in Drive. I always make certain it is in Park when I exit. These things put me at risk because I live in Minnesota. I have been alone parking lots at negative 20 degrees in the dark and could not drive home. I would spend a long time (hour) turning it off and on, pushing on it etc. before it would move out of Park. A few times someone has had to come get me. Then the the next day take me back and it spontaneously works. This happens in moderate and hot weather too. ALSO Myself and bystanders and other cars are at risk when it keeps moving on it's own from Park to Drive -any bump or push to the car on a hill would send it rolling. I took it to Autonation in White Bear Lake where it was purchased from in 2018. The problem would not occur for them. They quoted $1500 to replace the rotary dial shifter. I have looked into this problem and discovered Ford Recalled a variety of models(vin numbers) for this same problem in 2013 -2016. They have not yet issued a recall for any 2017-2018 models. (vin numbers)I have discovered I am not alone. Other people on forums or videos on the internet with 2017 and 2018 have the same problem. I talked to Ford today and they wouldn't tell me how many complaints they have gotten.

The transmission jumps, doesn’t want to shift gears, revs up on its own. The recall for the fusions year models 3013-16 is the same thing my car is doing.

While driving down the road the car suddenly flashed engine coolant is over-temperature warning and shut off and lost power. Inside of my vehicle the car was not showing it was running hot on the temperature hand. I was on a blind curve and barely made it to a pull off before the car completelyshut off. There have been no signs of over heating before this. There is a coolant intrusion in the cylinder and the engine block needs to be replaced. 120000 miles and out of warranty.

When I stop to get fuel/gas for my car, I am unable to turn the ignition off because if I do, the car will not restart immediately or at all. There is also a jerking motion immediately after fueling and while driving. There is a "wailing" noise immediately proceeding the car shutting down. The check engine light is on.

Dial on gear shift kept saying "shift fault, see manual " after investigating, bushing from shifter cable bushing was missing. Many other fusions have had this complaint and recall was issued for certain years. Possibilities are car going out of gear while parked and rolling away. This is a safety for the Ford fusion.

I have had this issue twice now. The vehicle says shift sensor fault or shift sys fault or something. The bushing on the transmission has failed for the 2nd time. Both times stopping me from being able to drive my vehicle to be able to get to my place of employment.

Calling this a safety issue may be a stretch, but I can see where a potential exists. In my 2018 Ford Fusion the trunk frequently pops open of its own accord while the vehicle is parked and ignition is off. It happens often enough that I am afraid to leave anything of value in it. My wife is afraid that it could happen someday while we're driving the vehicle. A trip to my local Ford dealer yielded nothing, and they told me that they had never heard of such a thing happening. They did offer to "troubleshoot" it for me at their full labor rate! Nothing found on the Ford website. A Google search, however, revealed that this has occurred frequently in the Fusion and in other Ford vehicles, as well as in vehicles from other manufacturers. I love the car and would hate to get rid of it because of this vexing problem, but I'm afraid to leave my golf clubs in the car while I run into a store. Also, the fear that it could pop open while vehicle is in operation leaves me with fear that something could fly out of the trunk and cause an accident or injury. Same Google search has shown a number of reports of this happening.

My car shuts down for some reason while I’m driving and has been running rough for the last couple of days. Also my horn does not work at all. This is a hazard for not only me but everybody. My vehicle have not been inspected, or not that I know of. When I first brought the car 2 years ago I noticed the horn was weak but was told that’s how they sound. I forgot when my check engine light came on but it had to be 2 or 3 months ago. Just recently my car started to stop on me while I’m in traffic, the first time it happened was in June. I also went to Autozone to see why the check engine light, but it only says small EVAP leak.

Ford issued a recall in 2020 for my car for coolant leaks. My vehicle was under warranty at the time (28k miles), and in the same week had white smoke emissions, engine stalling on the interstate and overheating in idle. The smoke never went away even after extensive, month long repair. The vehicle again had the same issues in august 2020 (76k miles), taken to Ford dealership with $3,000 in out of pocket expense. It is now March 2022 (82k miles) and my vehicle is still showing signs of coolant leak with no help from any Ford dealership.

The audio/navigation display screen on my 2018 Ford Fusion went black as I was backing out of a parking spot almost causing an accident. It immediately came back on after this but unfortunately, it started to happen regularly upon startup, while driving, parked, just randomly, and for longer periods of time. It also started to increase the volume and I couldn't control it. The system completely stopped working after several weeks. I did a lot of research and noticed that this is a significant problem with Ford Accessory Protocol Interface Modules (APIM). Some have already been recalled on certain models of Fords and why they are not recalled on any that go out is beyond me. Seems that in and of itself would place some liability on the manufacturer in the event of an accident. The dealership wants to charge over $1,200 to replace the faulty APIM, which they described as a continued problem that everyone knows about. So maybe that is the reason it is not recalled. They can make money selling the vehicle and then another $1,200 after 40,000 miles when it goes out. I am very frustrated and will now be $1,200 less happy. Yes, I am frustrated at the financial impact, but it was a safety issue initially and at times startled me while driving, which could have caused an accident. I am sure that there are numerous examples of previous complaints that are able to prove this.

Cylinder 2 Misfire. Told engine needs to be replaced due to a leak. Car was completely dead overnight with no other symptoms leading up to it.

I was leaving a doctors appointment and a message randomly displayed stating "Stop Safely Now" and the car quit moving. A yellow warning light came on as well. Fortunately I was in a parking lot, but I was unable to get the car to turn off or move for almost 10 minutes. Finally I was able to get to turn off and turn back on and drive home without another incident. It appears this is a common safety issue with Ford's hybrid vehicles. I am happy this didn't happen on a street road or the highway and that my daughter wasn't with me. I cannot be getting stranded places with the cold winters in Iowa or with my child.

Faulty APIM for radio/navigation/rear view camera. System won’t turn on or operate In cold weather. When warm, system works perfect.

On four separate occasions the truck will randomly open while driving. After the first couple times I was extremely careful to ensure I did not randomly hit the button or had my key fob in a way that the truck release could be activated by accident. Despite this the truck will still randomly open on its own. Could be a very dangerous situation if the trunk is full.

Electrical: My car’s radio was going out and I took to Ford for a check while getting oil change. They said normal don’t worry about it. At this time I was still in warranty. When taken to Ford the 2nd time,they “reset” my SYNC & then the radio/touchscreen complete stopped working within 48 hours. When I told them, I just happened to be out of warranty then. Touch screen is completely blank! It will not turn on or allow controls for heat nor a/c. Cannot see backup camera nor can I hear the beeps. The USB plugs and outlets are also not working! This began in January 2020. I have a 7 month old at the time and it was a very cold winter. Engine: Fast forward to August 2020, my car just shut down in the middle of the highway and started shaking with my then 15 month old! Pulled over and had it towed to Ford. Ford told me it needed a new Engine and would cost $7500 to get it fixed. I had never issues before and each oil change received the multi point inspection and I was never informed of any issues prior to.

MISSOURI

Blower motor keeps overheating and failing, potentially leading to engine fire

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND ALL OF A SUDDEN A WRENCH SENSOR POPPED UP ALONG WITH THE AIRBAG SENSOR AND THE CAR STARTING DE-ACCELERATING AND SHAKING AND I HAD TO PULL OVER. I WENT TO A MECHANIC AND THEY SAID THAT THE THROTTLE BODY WAS DIRTY SO THEY CLEANED IT AND THEY CLEARED THE CODE BUT IT RECENTLY HAPPENED TWO MORE TIMES. WHEN IT HAPPENS IT MAKES THE CAR NOT ABLE TO START AS EASILY. IT'S REALLY DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT MAKES IT TO WHERE THE CAR WILL JUST NOT ACCELERATE AND IF YOU ARE ON THE HIGHWAY THERE ARE CARS FLYING RIGHT PAST YOU. THIS HAS HAPPENED A TOTAL OF 3 OR 4 TIMES.

Mileage: 81,000

GEAR DIAL STUCK IN PARK MODE. GEAR DIAL I WILL NOT MOVE. WHEN THE PROBLEM FIRST STARTED THEN TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF AND TRYING OVER AND OVER I WAS ABLE TO GET IT INTO GEAR. THIS LAST TIME THAT DIDN'T WORK. ATTEMPTED TO GET THE CAR IN NEUTRAL USING THE NEUTRAL OVERRIDE METHOD BUT IT FAILED. CAR HAD TO BE WENCHED ONTO THE TOEING TRUCK WHILE STUCK IN GEAR. PROBLEM BEGAN OCCURRING AT 40,000 MILES. THE BATTERY IN THE CAR DIED FROM LEAVING THE LIGHTS ON AND THIS SEEMED TO 'RESET' THE PROBLEM AND NO ISSUES FOR 6 WEEKS. ORANGE WRENCH WARNING SIGN APPEARED AGAIN AND NOW THE CAR IS STUCK IN PARK AND HAVE TO TOW IT TO A FORD DEALER. I ALSO NOTICED THAT WHEN THIS PROBLEM OCCURRED THE BLUE ANTI THEFT LIGHT CONSTANTLY FLASHES. AFTER THE BATTERY DRAINED AND THE PROBLEM RESET THEN I ACCIDENTALLY HIT THE LOCK BUTTON TWICE AND THIS IS WHEN THE BLUE LIGHY STARTED FLASHING AGAIN AND I WAS UNABLE TO GET THE VEHICLE OUT OF PARK MODE. WHEN I FIRST PURCHASED THE VEHICLE AT 40,000 MILES I WAS DRIVING THE INTERSTATE AND THE BLUE ANTI THEFT LIGHT BEGAN FLASHING AND THE CAR ALARM SOUNDED WHILE I WAS AT A 75 MPH SPEED. I HAD TO STOP THE CAR, TURN IT OFF, HIT THE UNLOCK BUTTON ON MY KEY FOB TO GET THE. ALARM TO STOP SOUNDING. I BELIEVE THE TWO ISSUES MAY BE RELATED AS THEY HAPPEN AT THE SAME TIME. THE ORANGE WRENCH ONLY APPEARS WHEN THE CAR WILL NOT GO IN GEAR. WHEN THE CAR HAS EASILY GONE IN DEAR THE ORANGE WRENCH IS NOT PRESENT. AGAIN, I AM UNABLE TO ENGAGE THE NEUTRAL OVERRIDE BY USING THE KEY IN THE OVERRIDE SLOT. THE LIGHTS WILL FLASH ON THE DIAL BUT THE CAR WILL NOT GO INTO NEUTRAL, IT REMAINS STUCK. I HAVE TRIED MANY TIMES AND HAD OTHERS TRY IT AS WELL SO I KNOW IT'S NOT USER ERROR. CAR ALARM GOES OFF WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE.

Mileage: 40,000

AT A RENT-A-CAR FACILITY IN ABSECON, NJ, CUSTOMER RETURNED THE VEHICLE COMPLAINING THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STAY LOCKED. CAR WAS PARKED, NO DOORS WERE AJAR (RENTAL AGENT MADE SURE OF IT), LOCKED VEHICLE, AND TRIED THE HANDLES. FOUND AFTER ONE OR TWO PUMPS ON ANY HANDLE THE VEHICLE WOULD UNLOCK ITSELF. EVEN TRIED TO LOCK WITH THE EJECT KEY IN THE FOB ITSELF AND THE SAME RESULT OCCURRED. CHECKED BACK LOG ON VEHICLE FOR KEY CODE ON THE DRIVER DOOR TO FIND NO SUCH CODE AVAILABLE. THIS MAY BE AN ELECTRICAL/FUSE ISSUE REGARDING THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS.

Mileage: 37,000

METAL SCRATCHING UNDER CAR

Mileage: 60

WHEN THE TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE GOES OVER 70 DEGREES, THERE'S CREAKING NOISES UNDERNEATH, SOMETIMES VERY LOUD WHEN TURNING, EVEN WHEN PARKED, MOVING THE STEERING WHEEL LEFT OR RIGHT IT MAKES THE NOISE. LOOKING ONLINE, THERE ARE SEVERAL COMPLAINTS THAT REPORT THE SAME PROBLEM, MY CAR HAS ONLY 72K MILES AND IT FEELS LIKE SOMETHING IS GOING TO BREAK. IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING ALL SUMMER THIS YEAR AND IT'S GETTING LOUDER. THIS HAS TO BE A RECALL.

Mileage: 65,000