1991 FORD TAURUS Service Brakes, Hydraulic Problems

MY FORD TAURUS 1991 STATION WAGON LUNGED FORWARD UNCONTROLLABLY AFTER BACKING UP, BRAKING, THEN STARTING TO GO FORWARD. IT WENT AGAINST A WALL, THE BRAKE DIDN'T WORK, THE FRONT OF THE CAR WAS CRASHED, I HAD TO PUT IT INTO PARK TO STOP IT. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF ANY OTHER CAR SAME MAKE AND MODEL HAS HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. MY MECHANIC TESTED IT AND IT DID THIS ANOTHER 3 TIMES.*AK

Mileage: 102,000

AFTER THE RECOMMENDED 1 YEAR WAIT FOR WAXING, I DECIDED SINCE THE MILD WASHINGS WERE CONTINUING TO MAKE THE CAR DULLER I WOULD GIVE IT A SHINE. IT WAS BAD ENOUGH THAT PAINT CONTINUED TO COME OFF WHEN DRYING REGULARLY BUT I WAS MORTIFIED WHEN I TESTED AN AREA AND IT LOOKED LIKE WATER COLORS WERE USED AS PAINT. AFTER ALL THESE YEARS, I HAVE CALLED FORD SEVERAL TIMES WITH NO LUCK. ON ONE OCCASION A UNDISCLOSED PERSON SAID IT SOUNDED LIKE THERE WAS NOT ENOUGH OR NO CLEAR COAT AND I SHOULD TAKE IT TO WHERE I PURCHASED IT AND HAVE THEM LOOK AT IT. SO LUCKILY THE STADIUM AUTOMALL IN RUTHERFORD IS DIRECTLY ACROSS THE STREET FROM WHERE I LIVE. THIS IS ALSO WHERE I PURCHASED IT 13 YEARS AGO. THE MAN ADMITTED IT WAS DULL AND A GOOD WAXING PROFESSIONALLY WOULD HELP. I TOLD HIM I WOULD BE TO EMBARASSED BECAUSE THE PAINT COMES OFF EVEN WHEN I DRY IT AFTER A WASHING. HE NEVER CHECKED IF THEY WERE HAVING PROBLEMS AND TOLD ME THERE WAS NOTHING THEY WOULD DO ABOUT IT.I MUST POINT OUT WE ARE AVID FORD BUYERS AND MY HUSBANDS 10 YEAR OLD TRUCK WAS RE-PAINTED FROM THE SAME PROBLEM. ALSO AS THE ORIGINAL OWNER THE RECALLS LISTED IN YOUR WEB PAGE ON MY VEHICLE WERE ONLY ONCE REPORTED TO ME. THAT THE WAS THE CHILD SAFETY CATCH. JUST RECENTLY MY TIE-ROD SNAPPED ON RT.3 IN SECAUCUS, N.J. LUCKILY FOR ME I AM STILL ALIVE TO WRITE TO YOU. P.S. THE OTHER THINGS SUCH AS ROTORS EXCETERA HAVE ALSO BEEN DONE AT MY EXPENSE. MY CAR ONLY JUST CLICKED OVR 89,000 MILES FOR GOODNESS SAKE. THIS IS THE BEST WEBSITE!! EVEN IF NOTHING COMES OUT OF IT.*AK

I CAN'T POSSIBLY REMEMBER THE DATES THESE THINGS HAPPENED. I PUT A NEW (USED) TRANSMISSION AND THIS ONE IS SLIPPING. I PUT MORE BRAKE PADS AND CALIPERS THAN YOU WOULD USE IN A LIFE TIME. THE SPRINGS ARE WEAK IN THE BACK, BUT TO EXSPENSIVE TO CHANGE. I PUT A NEW FUEL PUMP AND GAS TANK. I'VE PUT A NEW EGR VALVE, OXYGEN SENSOR, THROTTLE SENSOR, AIR TEMP SENSOR. I PUT A BLINKER SWITCH AND NEW STRUTS BECAUSE MINE BROKE. 3 OUT OF 4 OF MY DOORS WILL NOT OPEN BECAUSE OF THE HANDLES. THESE ARE JUST A FEW OF THE THINGS I WROTE DOWN OR CAN REMEMBER. NOW IT WILL NOT START UNLESS I PUMP THE GAS(IT'S FUEL INJECTED) AND KEEP TURNING IT OVER AND OVER. THEN I'M NOT SURE IF IT WILL START AGAIN WHEN I SHUT IT OFF. THE FUEL PUMP IS WORKING I THINK, I CAN HEAR IT. I BOUGHT THE CAR USED AND THE PERSON PUT A 1989 MOTOR INTO A 1991 BODY. THESE THINGS STILL WENT WRONG WITH THE CAR EITHER WAY. I DID NOT CHECK ANY BELOW BECAUSE I'M NOT SURE WHAT TO CHECK.

WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED ROTORS ARE WEARING OUT, AND CAUSING VEHICLE TO VIBRATE. DEALER NOTIFIED.*AKI

WHILE DRIVING, THERE WAS A SQUEAKING NOISE, CONSUMER HAD ALL NEW BRAKES PUT ON, AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE RIGHT BACK SIDE CALIPER WAS FROZEN SHUT, WHICH WAS THEN REPLACED, BUT THE SQUEAKING NOISE CONTINUED.*JB

WHILE DRIVING, THERE WAS A SQUEAKING NOISE, CONSUMER HAD ALL NEW BRAKES PUT ON, AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE RIGHT BACK SIDE CALIPER WAS FROZEN SHUT, WHICH WAS THEN REPLACED, BUT THE SQUEAKING NOISE CONTINUED.*JB

TOTAL REPAIRS 3400.00 AT A TIME WHEN MONEY IS VERY SCARCE AS I AM RETIRED AND ON A VERY LIMITED INCOME. I EXPECTED TO MAINTAIN SMALL REPAIRS, BUT WITH TAKING CARE OF THE VEHICLE AND THE LOW MILEAGE, I BELIEVE THE AXELS/ BRAKES AND TRANSMISSION ARE VERY PREMATURE AND MAYBE THE A/C. AT 37168 MILES, THE CAR SHOULD BE RUNNING LIKE NEW.*AK

RIGHT REAR BRAKE WILL LOCK UP AND OVERHEAT WHEEL, CAUSING TIRE TO HEAT UP. *AK THE CONSUMER HAD BRAKES REPLACED THREE TIMES FOR LOCKING UP BRAKE PROBLEM, AND BELIEVES IT IS A SAFETY HAZARD. *YH

THE ROTORS WERE SERVICED UNDER RECALL 91V-134 AND SERVICED AGAIN UNDER WARRANTY, WITHIN 90 DAYS OTHER PARTS WERE DAMAGED. NLM

FRONT BRAKES AND BACK BRAKES; WHEN APPLYING BRAKES, THE FAILED, VEHICLE DIDN'T STOP. ROTORS/CALIPERS/ DRUMS SHOE PADS WERE DEFECTIVE. ALSO, RADIATOR/ OIL PAN, AND STEERING POWER ASSIST: HOSE: FLUID WERE LEAKING. AND DEALERSHIP HAD TO REPLACE THEM. *AK

FRONT BRAKES AND BACK BRAKES; WHEN APPLYING BRAKES, THE FAILED, VEHICLE DIDN'T STOP. ROTORS/CALIPERS/ DRUMS SHOE PADS WERE DEFECTIVE. ALSO, RADIATOR/ OIL PAN, AND STEERING POWER ASSIST: HOSE: FLUID WERE LEAKING. AND DEALERSHIP HAD TO REPLACE THEM. *AK

THE FLEXIBLE BRAKE LINE IN THE RIGHT REAR FENDER WELL DEVELOPED AN OBSTRUCTION AT THE POINT WHERE AN INTERMEDIATE CLAMP IS INSTALLED TO SECURE IT TO THE STRUT. THIS CAUSED IT TO ACT AS A CHECK VALVE, THEREBY NOT RELEASING THE CALIPER, WHICH CAUSED IT TO OVERHEAT AND SET THE RUBBER COMPONENTS, WHEEL BEARING GREASE, AND PLASTIC HUBCAP ON FIRE. *AK

MY COMPRESSER WENT OUT WITHIN A FEW MONTHES OF ME BUYING THE CAR. WHEEL BEARINGS ARE OUT, AND AIRBAG LIGHT WON'T QUIT BLINKING THE DEALER SAID IT WOULD COST $400 TO FIND OUT WHY.ALSO, REAR DEFROSTER NEVER WORKED I HAVE REPLACED THE SHOCKS/STRUTS/ BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS. *AK

WHILE DRIVING IN WARM WEATHER WITH TEMPARATURES ABOVE 75 DEGREES, CONSUMER WOULD REMOVE FOOT FROM THE BRAKE PEDAL AND APPLY TO THE GAS PEDAL, HOWEVER VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE UNLESS THE GAS PEDAL WAS PUSHED HARD, DEALER THOUGHT THE PROBLEM TO BE A FAULTY SENSOR ASSEMBLY AND DEFECTIVE FUEL PUMP, AFTER REPLACING THESE THE PROBLEM DID NOT GO AWAY, A DEALER DROVE VEHICLE AND NOTICED THE BRAKE PEDAL WOULD NOT COME UP COMPLETELY BACK TO WHERE IT SHOULD BE, CONSUMER HAS TO KEEP HER LEFT TOE UNDER THE BRAKE PEDAL TO MAKE SURE IT STAYS UP. *SLC

FRONT BRAKE PADS FAILED. NLM

WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES BRAKE PEDAL WILL GO STRAIGHT TO THE FLOORBOARD, AND THE ENGINE WILL LIFT UP AND RUB AGAINST THE FRAME OF THE BODY. *AK

I HAVE ALWAYS MAINTAINED THIS VEHICLE IN ACCORDANCE WITH MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATIONS AND RETAINED RECEIPTS TO SUBSTANTIATE THIS CLAIM. THE VEHICLE HAS PROVEN TO BE UNRELIABLE AND A RISK TO OPERATE EVEN WHEN MAINTAINED WITHIN MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATIONS. CONSIDERING THE SCOPE AND FREQUENCY OF MAJOR COMPONENT FAILURE WITH THIS VEHICLE, THE MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE HAS NO RELATIONSHIP TO THE SUBJECT VEHICLES OPERATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. BASED ON MY EXPERIENCES AND OTHER REPORTS IN PRINT ON THIS PARTICULAR MAKE AND MODEL, FORD PRODUCED A VEHICLE (THOUSANDS OF THEM) THAT PRESENT AN OBVIOUS SAFETY HAZARD TO THE OCCUPANTS OF THE VEHICLE AND TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC. THIS VEHICLE WAS DESIGNED AS A 8 PASSENGER FAMILY CAR. THE OPPORTUNITY TO SIGNIFICANTLY INJURY THE OCCUPANTS DUE TO A MAJOR COMPONENT FAILURE OR COMBINATION OF MAJOR COMPONENT FAILURE MUST BE ABOVE ACCEPTABLE RISK STANDARDS ESTABLISHED BY THE NHTSA. I HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE THAT ALL OF THE MAJOR COMPONENT FAILURES HAVE OCCURRED AT REDUCED SPEEDS AND NOT IN CONJESTED SEATTLE/TACOMA FREEWAY TRAFFIC SITUATIONS. THE LAST TRANSMISSION FAILURE OCCURRED ONE DAY AFTER MY FAMILY TRAVELED TO SEATTLE TO ENJOY SEAFAIR AND IF IT HAD OCCURRED ON I-5, IT COULD HAVE RESULTED IN SERIOUS INJURY TO MY ENTIRE FAMILY OF 5. AT WHAT POINT DOES THE NHTSA TAKE ACTION AGAINST A MANUFACTURER FOR PRODUCING A VEHICLE THAT IS A KNOWN LEMON THAT HAS SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERNS.

ROTORS WARPED CAUSING VEHICLE TO SHAKE WHEN BRAKING.

BRAKES FAILED.

WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED AND APPLYING THE BRAKES TO STOP VEHICLE WILL JERK/VIBRATE AND STALL AND DIE OUT. ALSO, WHEN SLOWING DOWN, VEHICLE WILL JUMP OUT GEAR, AND NOW VEHICLE WON'T MOVE AT ALL. *AK

ORIGINAL TRANSMISSION WAS FIXED 3 TIMES AND THEN FINALLY REPLACED, ALL UNDER WARRANTY. THE REPLACEMENT TRANSMISSION LASTED ABOUT 70000 MILES, AND THEN HAS HAD THE SAME TYPES OF PROBLEMS, AND HAS BEEN REPLACED. THE FRONT RIGHT MOTOR MOUNT BROKE SEVERAL TIMES AND CONTINUALLY THE TOP BOLT VIBRATES LOOSE. THE MOUNT HAS JUST BEEN REPLACED AGAIN. THE FRONT WHEEL ROTORS CONTINUALLY GO BAD, AND HAVE TO BE REPLACED, ESPECIALLY THE RIGHT ONE. *AK

I HAVE FAILED TO UNDERSTAND WHY ALL I HAVE HAD WITH MY VEHICLE WAS PROBLEMS TILL THIS DAY. *AK

I HAVE FAILED TO UNDERSTAND WHY ALL I HAVE HAD WITH MY VEHICLE WAS PROBLEMS TILL THIS DAY. *AK

I HAVE FAILED TO UNDERSTAND WHY ALL I HAVE HAD WITH MY VEHICLE WAS PROBLEMS TILL THIS DAY. *AK

ANTI-LOCK BRAKES SEEM TO ENGAGE DURING CORNERING TO THE RIGHT WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE TO SLOW DOWN (OCCASSIONALLY). THE BRAKE PEDAL THEN VIOLENTLY JERKS YOUR FOOT, HARD ENOUGH TO BRUISE. THE SYSTEM ALSO ENGAGES UPON BRAKE APPLICATION ON WET OR SANDY SURFACE AND VIOLENTLY PUSHES PEDAL UP AGAINST THE FOOT APPLYING THE BRAKE, SOMETIMES BRUISING THE BOTTOME OF THE FOOT. THIS HAS KNOCKED MY FOOT OFF THE BRAKE PEDAL UPON OCCASION.

BRAKES FAILED, RESULTING IN LOCK UP.

BRAKE PROBLEM WAS BROUGHT TO DEALERS ATTENTIONS 3 TIMES, FINALLY THE THIRD TIME THEY TOLD ME THE ROTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED, BUT MY CAR WAS SUPPOSEDLY NOT PART OF THE RECALLED VEHICLES WITH ROTOR PROBLEMS. I HAVE LEARNED THAT SINCE MY VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED * REGISTERED IN MAIL, IT WAS PART OF THE RECALL. I WOULD LIKE THE DEALER TO REFUND WHAT I PAID FOR ROTOR REPLACEMENT BY THEIR SERVICE DEPARTMENT. *AK

A LOUD SCRUBBING NOISE HEARD WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED. WHEN DRIVING AND APPLYING THE BRAKES, EXTENDED STOPPING DISTANCE OCCURS, DEALER NOT AWARE OF THE PROBLEM, PROBLEM OCCURS AT ANY SPEED ON WET OR DRY PAVEMENTS. *AK

REAR DRUMS ARE OUT OF ROUND FOR UNKNOWN REASON. DEALER NOTIFIED.

REAR BRAKES SELF ADJUSTMENT MECHANISM FAILED TO WORK PROPERLY; DEALER NOTIFIED.*AK

BRAKE BOOSTER FAILED.

HAD TAKEN VEHICLE TO DEALER. WAS INFORMED THAT MOTOR MOUNTS WERE CRACKED & BROKEN & NEEDED REPLACING. MOTOR MOUNTS NEED REPLACING AGAIN FOR SAME PROBLEM. HAD TO REPLACE AXLES, FRONT DISC BRAKES ROTORS & CV BOOTS. REPLACED ALSO, ACCORDING TO MECHANIC.

THE ENTIRE ROTOR DETACHED FROM THE STEEL HUB AT THE ATTACHMENT POINT. SUBSEQUENT INSPECTION OF THE SECOND ROTOR REVEALED THE THAT IT TO WAS FAILING.

BRAKE BOOTS FAILING.

BRAKE PEDAL STICKS AND WILL NOT RELEASE DUE TO FAILURE OF THE BRAKE BOOSTER.

BRAKE PADS FAILED.

WHEN DRIVING THE BRAKES SUDDENLY SELF ACTIVATED FOR PERIODS OF A FEW TO SEVERAL MINUTES.

DRIVING, START TO APPLY BRAKES, PEDAL WOULD STICK; WOULD OCCUR AT VARIOUS SPEEDS; HAVE TO MANUALLY PULL PEDAL UP. NOW GOING ALL THE WAY TO FLOOR; BRAKES DON'T WORK & THEN WOULD KICK BACK UP; BRAKES WORKING. TAKEN TO MECHANIC & HAD CHECKED OUT & TOLD NOT ABS MALFUNCTIONED, BUT BRAKE BOOSTER. *AK

WHILE DRIVING 55-60 MPH, THE BRAKE PEDAL GOES DOWN WITHOUT APPLICATION, AND THE VEHICLE LURCHES FORWARD. BRAKE APPLICATION IS REQUIRED AFTER COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP TO RECTIFY PROBLEM. *AK

BRAKES REPLACED TWO TIMES DUE TO EXCESSIVE WEAR. MJS

BRAKES FAILED.

BRAKE PADS FAILED.

BRAKE ROTORS FAILED.

ANTILOCK BRAKE PEDAL NOT COMPLETELY RETURNING, REPLACED MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BRAKE BOOSTER.

ANTILOCK BRAKE PEDAL NOT COMPLETELY RETURNING, REPLACED MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BRAKE BOOSTER.

REAR BRAKE ADJUSTERS FAILED, CAUSING ACCIDENT.

ABS BRAKES OVERHEATED AFTER 50MILES OF DRIVING . CONSUMER TOOK VEHICLE TO BRAKE SHOP AND WAS ADVISED THE BRAKES WERE FUNCTIONING PROPERLY BUT PARTIALLY MELTED DOWN, ROTORS, PADS, CALIPERS AND CALIPERS PINS HAD TO BE REPLACED.*JB

ABS BRAKES OVERHEATED AFTER 50MILES OF DRIVING . CONSUMER TOOK VEHICLE TO BRAKE SHOP AND WAS ADVISED THE BRAKES WERE FUNCTIONING PROPERLY BUT PARTIALLY MELTED DOWN, ROTORS, PADS, CALIPERS AND CALIPERS PINS HAD TO BE REPLACED.*JB

BOTH FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS FROZE.

BRAKES SHUDDER DUE TO WARPED FRONT BRAKE ROTORS. *AK

FRONT CALIPERS LOCKED UP. *SD

FRONT BRAKE ROTOR RUSTED AWAY FROM THE HUB. *AK

WARPED FRONT BRAKE ROTORS, CAUSING BRAKES TO SHUDDER/VIBRATE. *AK

FRONT BRAKES FAILED TWICE.

DISC BRAKES FAILED.

ERRATIC WAPRING OF FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS, CAUSING VEHICLE TO SURGE. *AK

FRONT DISC BRAKES WORE INTO THE ROTORS.

FRONT DISC BRAKE VIBRATES OUT OF ROUND, REPLACED DISC TWICE. TT

ABS BRAKING PROBLEMS. PLEASE DESCRIBE. TT

FRONT DISC ROTORS HAVE BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES AFTER 44K MILES. TT

THE MOTOR MOUNT BROKE, WHEN APPLIED THE BRAKE IT MAKES NOISE AND THE TRANSMISSION WAS REPLACED THE AIR CONDITIONER STOPPED WORKING . TT *JB

THE MOTOR MOUNT BROKE, WHEN APPLIED THE BRAKE IT MAKES NOISE AND THE TRANSMISSION WAS REPLACED THE AIR CONDITIONER STOPPED WORKING . TT

WHEN APPLYING THE ABS ANTI-LOCK BRAKE CAR VIBRATE . TT

FRONT ROTORS ARE WARPING, LAST SET LASTED ONLY 2K MILES. TT

BRAKE ROTOR SEPARATED FROM LEFT REAR WHEEL, RESULTING IN A SCRAPING NOISE PRIOR TO RECALL (91V-134). *AK

BRAKE ROTORS REPLACED/TURNED 5 TIMES DUE TO CONTINUOUS BRAKING PROBLEMS/VIBRATIONS.

ABS BRAKES FAILED, CAUSING VEHICLE TO LOSE CONTROL/SLIDE, RESULTING IN AN ACCIDENT.

BRAKES STICKS AND BUY BRAKES EVERY OTHER MONTH. TT

ABS: BRAKES SLIDE WHENEVER BRAKING; INCREASED STOPPING CAUSED ACCIDENT; HIT ANOTHER VEHICLE WHEN VEHICLE IN FRONT MADE A SUDDEN STOP. TT

WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED, LEFT FRONT TIRE BOUNCES. TT

WHILE DRIVING, SUDDENLY ENGINE SURGED, WHEN PEDAL WENT TO FLOOR, THEN THROTTLE STUCK WIDE OPEN AT 90-100MPH, BRAKES SEEMED INEFFECTIVE IN STOPPING VEHICLE. TT

BRAKE BOOSTER FAILED, CAUSING CALIPER/ROTOR FAILURES, ALSO BRAKES FAIL TO RELEASE. *SKD

FRONT ROTORS WARPED, ALSO FRONT PADS CRACKED, CAUSING BRAKES TO PULSATE WHEN DEPRESSED.

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER REPLACED.

THE REAR DISC ROTOR AND CALIPER, PADS HAD TO BE REPLACE, CAUSING GRINGING NOISE WHEN APPLIED. TT

REAR DISC BRAKES HAVE RUSTED WITH LESS THSN 27,000 MILES ON IT. TT

THE FRONT BRAKE WEAR OUT ROTOR AND PADS. TT

THE FRONT BRAKE WEAR OUT ROTOR AND PADS. TT

NOISY BRAKES, REPLACED.

PREMATURE FAILURE OF FRONT BRAKES. *AW

FRONT BRAKE ROTORS/PADS FAILED, CAUSING VEHICLE TO SQUEAK WHEN BRAKES APPLIED.

DISC BRAKES ARE BEING CORRODED BY ROAD SALT. TT

LEFT REAR BRAKE HOLD-DOWN PIN CORRODED/BROKE, RESULTING IN PREMATURE WEAR OF BRAKES. *AK