2016 HONDA CR-V Electrical System Problems

Unknown electrical problem. Both headlights will go out simultaneously without warning while driving. Frequent malfunction of running lamps, headlamps, break lamps.

2016 Honda CR-V’s smart locking system failed. The smart locking system caused the car battery to drain if it wasn’t driven within 24 hours. After numerous car battery replacements, a Honda auto repair replaced the door handle and repaired the smart locking system. If $639 was not paid for the needed repair, the car battery would drain and therefore the car would not function. After reaching out to Honda for a reimbursement, they declined. This is frustrating because I have researched online and several others have experienced this issue with their Honda CR-V. The issue simply happened one day and was not caused by a vehicle accident.

The contact owns a 2016 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that while approaching a stoplight and decelerating, the vehicle suddenly shut off. The contact stated that after restarting the vehicle, the vehicle operated normally. During the failure, the battery warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that the battery was replaced; however, the failure persisted. The contact stated that the failure mostly occurred on very hot or rainy days. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, who was unable to duplicate that failure. The cause of the failure was not yet been determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 45,000. The VIN was not available.

Mileage: 45,000

I first noticed this issue in October of 2023. When approaching the passenger side of my 2016 fwd Honda Cr-v it would unlock without touching the door or the key fob. This caused my car to be left unlocked multiple times without noticing it which is a major safety concern. Additionally I would go to get in the driver's seat and before the car was on the seat adjusted itself to the full upright position. Those two issues paired with the battery dying 7 times in the 8 years I have had it makes me think the electric is failing and causing the battery to constantly run which drains it. One time when the battery was not working they said it was the starter and charged $700 to fix it yesterday this is still happening. Another time this left me in dangerous situation when returning from work travel to the airport over an hour from my home and my car not starting. I had to call a tow truck to get it jumped. I called a Honda service center and the person I spoke with had never heard of these issues before. There are no warning messages when this is happening. I do not have $1000 for them to look into it.

The drivers and passenger smart door handles have failed this year. It caused parasitic battery drain over 3 days and the doors would unlock automatically just by walking within 5 feet of the car. I have disconnected them for now because 800 in parts only is rediculous. Very dissapointed the reliability of the 2016 CRV.

While driving on my lunch hour on January 14,2025 on busy street my car slowed down almost to a complete stop and I lost power and acceleration. My engine light came on and I had to pull off the road at a very slow speed. It was almost like I lost power in my gas pedal. It was pretty scary because it was over the lunch hour and it was busy. This could have been bad had I not been on the right lane to be able to pull off to a side street. I was concerned about being rear ended due to my car slowing down so fast and I had very little acceleration when pushing on the gas pedal.

I have a 2016 Honda CRV. Approx 2 years ago several electrical problems started. 1. )Radio started turning on and off on its own. 2. ) Car locks would lock and unlock on their own. I will be sitting in car and the car would lock and unlock on its own approx 4-5 times and then stop. It would also happen when I would get out of the car and lock the door and as soon as I walked away I could hear it unlock again and it did not matter if I locked it on the door panel or use the key FOB. I thought at first maybe I am doing something wrong, but it has also happened to my husband multiple times. This could be a safety issue, not knowing if its locked or unlocked my child could open the door while I am driving. Also someone could get into my car. 3.) My car battery started losing juice frequently. I would have to jump it, and now this is happening approx every 6 weeks. 4.) The Key FOB also juices out frequently and I have had to replace it multiple times and batteries are not cheap. I have been stranded 4 times at night and I beleive it was a risk to my personal safety. I have taken it to a independent service for the locks but they could not duplicate and told me it would be expensive to check the electrical system to first see if there were any electrical recalls first. I have read all the complaints on your site and there are over 60 electrical complaints. Many in regards to the Car's Battery discharging. One person talked about the seat position would move on its own, another said their headlights would turn off and on. Although there are many different electrical complaints they are all electrical related and warrant an investigation. As a consumer it is very fustrating as the price for buying and fixing a car is expensive. I don't know what it takes to have a recall but I hope NHTSA does the right thing especially when people are losing faith in big companies/agencies. Thank you

The drivers side door unlocks on its own after I have locked the door and start walking away from the vehicle. It is not suppose to open until after I have grasped the handle to open it when it has been locked. I can hear it unlock when I am outside the vehicle and somewhere in the vicinity of 10 feet away from the vehicle. I can have it available for inspection at any time. This problem causes the battery to drain and the vehicle won't start. The dead battery has happened to me twice (once in an airport parking lot and once at home). I have researched this on the internet and it is a common problem for the vehicle (both the unlocking and subsequent draining of the battery). The safety issue is, if this were to happen in a situation where conditions were such that I couldn't get my car started and I needed to escape an assailant that's trying to do harm to me or other passengers (children) in my vehicle. Another scenario could be needing to be able to drive away from any dangerous situation (stuck in a desert in extreme heat, a forest fire, etc...). The list could be endless. You need to be able to start your car when necessary. It hasn't been inspected by a dealer but I have contacted them twice about this issue. I haven't had it inspected by anyone. Many people have had this same problem and the repair at dealer is roughly $700 dollars. I think they have to replace the door lock actuator. There were no warnings, messages or other symptoms before it first happened. The problem first happened in April/May of 2024.

The contact owns a 2016 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that the vehicle had failed to start, causing the battery to be replaced several times. The vehicle was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed several times; however, the cause of the failure could not be determined. The vehicle was taken to a second dealer, Spitzer Honda Euclid (915 E 200th St, Euclid, OH 44119); where it was diagnosed that the front driver's side outer door handle was experiencing an electrical short circuit; however, the part to do the repair was not available. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, but no assistance was provided. The failure mileage was unknown.

Smelled gasoline while driving but not sure of source. 10 min into drive fumes were very strong and then all light came on and engine shut down. A fire safety vehicle noticed fuel pouring out from under the vehicle. Because of the fuel spill the police came and called a tow truck. The car was towed to Firestone where they determined that the fuel line on top of gas tank was spilling fuel. I noticed the 2017 CRV Honda have a recall on this fuel supply and my car was a late 2016 model. They will not honor my vin number.

IF CAR IS NOT DRIVEN FOR A FEW DAYS THE BATTERY WILL BE DEAD. CAR HAS NEW BATTERY. DOING MY RESEARCH THIS HAS BEEN A PROBLEM FOR 2011-2019 HONDA CRV WHY IS THERE NO RECALL FOR THIS. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE APPARENTLY IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE VSA SYSTEM. IS HONDA PAYING THE NHTSA NOT TO RECALL THIS

The contact owns a 2016 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start up after several attempts. There was no warning light illuminated. Once the vehicle was started, the vehicle jerked while depressing the accelerator pedal while driving at various speeds. There was no warning light illuminated. One day, several warning lights appeared on the instrument panel soon after starting the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where a diagnostic test was performed; however, no defect was found with the vehicle. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was unknown.

Part 74800-TF0-J02, Honda Door Lock Actuator. It appears there have been issues for years with the door lock actuator parts. This has been reported online at Honda blog sites, complaints, reviews, etc. that I've seen. Why doesn't this get resolution. It's a difficult part to replace, and harder to find someone to do it. It's a safety factor, for the door cannot be opened. I was rear-ended by a car in the past, and mine was totaled. The only escape was the back hatch. In this case, I would have been unable to get out, and could succomb to explosion and death. In the least, it is extremely frustrating to be unable to load a cart of groceries, etc into the back. We leave a backseat down now, since it has failed after three repairs. We have to sling groceries into the back, and crawl in to retrieve them. We are looking for the part and service once again. Many have said this occurs in cold weather. We have found that weather is just a coincidence, and it occurs any season. I wonder if it can't handle the wattage from the Honda wiring panel or if it's just a defective part with a short lifespan.

Beginning on the first of December 2023, the battery has drained every 24 to 48 hours. I have used up the annual roadside assistance I am allowed in the policy year October 2023 through October 2024. The roadside assistance technicians kept telling me I was not driving it enough or I was leaving something on. The tow truck driver I called for a jump this Thursday, in order to drive to the repair facility, suggested the mechanic needed to check every circuit in order to determine what function was draining the battery. The first and potentially not the last drain is the front passenger side door handle. No door handles are currently available from Honda. I have seen complaints, at [XXX] , regarding "parasitic" battery drain on this model year. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

On cold start and when you start driving the car will shut off while driving/ when coming to stop

I just purchased this vehicle in June 2023. For the first couple of months, I had no problems. Then on August 25, the battery was dead and I needed a jump. I took it to my local auto parts store who tested my less then 2 year old battery and said it was fine. They also tested the alternator and starter, both were fine. Then, on September 5, another dead battery. I waited 3 hours for roadside assistance to come and give me a jump. Next incident, September 19. Again, needed a jump and again on September 25. This is my only car so I need it to be reliable. I have only purchased Hondas for the last 20 years, but I will never again buy a Honda. My car is now at the shop to see if they can determine what is causing the parasitic drain to my battery in the hopes of fixing it but after looking this issue up online, I can see there are 100's if not 1,000's of people experiencing this same issue. Additionally, there was a class-action lawsuit for 2017-2020 model years for the same issue: battery won't hold a charge. With as much money as we hard-working people spend to buy a Honda, we should at least be able to expect that it will start!

I have a 2016 Honda CRV EXL. I have been trying to find out information on why my locks are not working. Most of the time the back door locks and the hatch/rear tailgate do not unlock. The tailgate will unlock only when I touch the door but not with the key fob. Every time I have taken the car to be looked at it doesn't have the issue that they can find so I feel CRAZY! Then I drive home and again the locks will not lock or unlock so I have to reach in and unlock or lock them manually. I saw that there was an issue with 2007-2011 CRV's and a class action law suite. I just want my stupid car fixed.

These cars have had this problem for years according to an independent Honda garage. Wife complained the car wouldn't accelerate when the accelerator pedal was mashed. I thought it was a mistake she had caused. A week or so later, I experienced the same issue. I mashed the gas, entered a 4 lane 45 mph street & the car wouldn't accelerate. With cars bearing down, I don't know what I did, but managed to finally get the car to move. I've taught defensive driver training, road raced in SCCA & have well over a million miles behind the wheel, NEVER have I had this occur before. I'd heard of unintended acceleration, but I had just experienced non-intended acceleration. I talked to 4 different Honda service writers at different dealers, none admitted being aware of this problem. After multiple occurrences of the same issue, I went into an independent Honda garage, started explaining what had happened. The owner's wife came out from behind her desk, picked up 1 of 5 boxes on the counter & said, "This is your problem & why we keep this many cause it's a common & frequent problem," The box contained an Accelerator Position Sensor. She explained it is a common problem with Honda vehicles equipped with these position sensors. I've reported this problem before & wrote a letter to Honda America. I haven't heard of a resolution to replace these defective electronic sensors. If someone with my experience is almost hit by oncoming vehicles due to these defective accelerator position sensors, I wonder how many people have been injured or killed because their Honda would not accelerate when needed. It is something NHTSA needs to investigate. Enlist independent garages to determine how much of a problem these sensors pose, dealerships are not viable responders As a result of this continuing problem, we wanted to get rid of the vehicle, had an opportunity to sell the vehicle & did.

Engine starting problem, for 3 weeks I would push the start button and the engine would not start on the first, second, third or fourth try. Finally the engine would start. I took the car to the dealer for repair and they told me the starter solenoid was falling apart mechanically. The dealer replaced the starter/solenoid assy and now there is no trouble starting. I have 45000 miles on the car and this should not have happened. I have owned many cars over the years and have never had a solenoid come apart on a starter. This is a serious defect and the dealer says it happens a lot on these Honda cars. I still had to pay $956.00 to get the car repaired.

I have to keep a solar panel attached to my front visor or my new batteries will go dead. This is a problem for other vehicles the same as mine. 2016 Honda CRV. I understand that the electrical, battery parts are very faulty. I was going through batteries, and the Honda dealership never figured this out. A friend of mine attached the solar panel so I won't have a dead battery every day. Thanks for reading.

I have a 2016 Honda CR-V. I few days ago, pulled into a parking spot, stopped my car and placed the gear into park. I was sitting in the parking spot for a few minutes while waiting to pick someone up when I hear a strange noise come from the car, not even a second later my car suddenly accelerated on its own without me pressing the gas pedal or touching anything. I was completely caught off guard. The car shot forward at such a rate of speed, so fast that it threw me back in my seat. I suddenly reached to grab the steering wheel, and tried to take control of the wheel, but the steering wheel would not turn, it was completely locked. I placed both feet on the brake pedal and pushed as hard as I could but the car would not stop. It was like the car suddenly had a mind of it's own and someone else was controlling it. It literally accelerated on it's own. I couldn't stop it or steer it, everything was disabled. My car jumped a curb and slammed into a pole. Upon the first impact, none of the airbags deployed even though my entire chest slammed the steering wheel, it was only when I hit the pole did the airbags deploy. I sustained injuries to my head, back, chest and hands. Witnesses at the scene quickly pulled me out of the car, closed my door and took me away from the car because it was leaking oil and fluids everywhere and they were afraid it would explode. The entire front end of my car was completely destroyed. Nobody else was hurt other than me, but it could've been much worse if someone was walking or standing in front of my car. The way it shot forward on it's own could've killed someone. There was no way to control the car. Police, fire and ambulance showed up to the scene. Witnesses took pictures of the damage both inside and outside my car. People at the scene said it was possibly the cars computer gone bad. When I looked back at the photos, I can see that my car was in park. Thankfully I had my seatbelt on so I survived it.

ELECTRONIC TRUNK SYSTEM/HATCH BACK DOOR SWITCH REPEATEDLY DOES NOT OPERATE IN COLD CONDITIONS . THERE IS NO WAY FOR A CONSUMER TO MANUALLY OPEN HATCH BACK DOOR WHEN IT FAILS.

I have submitted this complaint before. We sold the car rather than deal with a potential t-bone accident. When starting from a stop, as you would accelerate into a traffic lane the car without warning would suddenly act as if the key was turned off, ceasing to accelerate. Exiting our neighborhood onto a thoroughfare with typical 35-50 mph traffic, my wife & I both had frequent instances of this failure to accelerate or dead throttle response. With 50+ years of driving, 5 years of SCCA road racing, 5 years of teaching defensive driving, I'm still not sure what I've done to get the car to accelerate & avoid getting t-boned. Several Honda dealerships have acted as if this is an unknown situation/condition. Actually talked to 5 different Honda service writers who all denied that the problem existed. Went to an independent Honda garage who had 5 boxes of the offending part-Throttle Position Sensor-on their office counter. I was told it is a common problem, as evidenced by the number of TPS boxes they had. This is an extreme hazard & danger to anyone driving a Honda that uses this particular piece of hardware. I would urge a recall to force Honda to re-design this sensor to eliminate the potential non-acceleration issue.

Battery will drain overnight and will not retain enough charge to even unlock the doors. Battery tested by two auto part stores and determined the battery is ok. Took vehicle to Honda and said they found no problem. Problem occurred again the same night.

When the weather gets under 50F, the trunk will not unlock and will not open. It seems as if the actuator freezes. When the temperature is above 50F you can hear it click and unlock. This was an issue with 2011-2015 CRV and it is still an issue with 2016.

This is an intermittent problem. The electric driver seat adjusts on its own--this vehicle does not have 1 or 2 position memory option. Several times when the car has been driven and parked (such as at a store, or overnight in the driveway) when returning to the vehicle the seat is in a different position, having moved itself completely forward. This has happened when the car is not running and is not in accessory mode. Yesterday while the car was running, but not yet moving, the seat adjusted itself completely forward, pinning my husband to the steering wheel. The pressure was so great that he could not breathe. It was extremely difficult for him to reach the seat adjustment button to free himself. This could have been a fatal incident if no one was nearby to assist. THIS IS CERTAINLY A SAFETY ISSUE!! There were no warning lamps or messages displayed at any time indicating a problem of any kind. The vehicle has not yet been checked for this specific issue, however it had been through a routine service and dealer safety inspection one week prior to the incident. The dealer is unable to service the vehicle until 7/13/2021. I have an appointment scheduled for that day.

I GOT INTO MY PARKED CAR MONDAY MORNING MAY 10, 2021 TO FIND A LARGE BURN HOLE IN THE PASSENGER SEAT AND BACK OF SEAT NEAR THE BELT BUCKLE. I TOOK IT TO MY DAYTONA BEACH HONDA DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY DETERMINED AN ELECTRICAL FAILURE IN THE HEATED SEATS CAUSED THE FIRE. THE CAR IS ONE YEAR OUT OF WARRANTY AND APPROX COST TO REPAIR IS 4500.00.

Mileage: 53,000

VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO A RESTAURANT, PLACED IN PARK AND TURNED OFF. IT WAS TURNED ONTO ACCESSORY MODE WITH THE ONLY RADIO PLAYING. WITHIN 10 MINUTES OF THE VEHICLE BEING IN ACCESSORY MODE, THE TOUCH SCREEN TURNED BLACK AND THE RADIO WENT SILENT. THE DOME LIGHTS CAME ON WHEN MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS WERE MADE TO TURN ACCESSORY MODE BACK ON, BUT THE TOUCH SCREEN AND RADIO WOULD NOT TURN ON. ATTEMPTS WERE MADE TO START THE VEHICLES ENGINE, BUT WERE UNSUCCESSFUL. THE CAR WAS THEN JUMP STARTED SUCCESSFULLY. SEVERAL DAYS LATER, THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR TESTING. THE BATTERY WAS TESTED (4 YEAR OLD ORIGINAL BATTER) AND STILL HAD SUBSTANTIAL LIFE REMAINING. NO OTHER TESTING WAS COMPLETED.

Mileage: 28,000

THE REAR TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH DOES NOT WORK ONCE THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE FALLS BELOW ABOUT 40 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT. AND THERE IS NO INSIDE TRUNK RELEASE SO THE TRUNK CANNOT BE ACCESSED FOR ABOUT 3-4 MONTHS OF THE YEAR DUE TO COLD WEATHER.

Mileage: 10,000

CAR FREQUENTLY WON'T START. DASH LIGHT COMES ON AND ENGINE CRANKS, BUT DOESN'T FULLY TURN OVER. AFTER DRIVING 60 MILES, WAS LEFT PARKED FOR 3 HOURS AND THIS OCCURRED. HAS ALSO HAPPENED AFTER SHORTER TRIPS. NO LIGHTS OR ACCESSORIES WERE LEFT ON.

Mileage: 30,000

INABILITY TO START CAR AFTER BEING PARKED NEEDING TO BE JUMP STARTED.

Mileage: 46,000

THE AC SYSTEM HAS SUDDENLY STOPPED WORKING. GOING INTO THE HOT SUMMER MONTHS THE AC SYSTEM OCCASIONALLY BLOWS COLD AIR BUT QUICKLY SWITCHES TO HOT AIR WHEN DRIVING FOR EXTENDED PERIODS (OVER 10 MINUTES). THIS IS NOT ONLY A HUGE INCONVENIENCE IN 80+ DEGREE WEATHER, BUT ALSO A SAFETY CONCERN WITH EXCESSIVE HEAT CIRCULATING IN THE CAR IN THE HOT SUMMER MONTHS. I HAVE TRIED TO REMEDY THE PROBLEM BY CHECKING FREON COMPRESSOR AND CONDENSER BUT NOTHING GIVES. THIS SEEMS TO BE A MAJOR ISSUE ON 2016 MANUFACTURING FOR CIVICS AND CRV'S.

FOR THE 4TH TIME A DEAD BATTERY. SYSTEM SHOW ALL GOOD, BATTERY, ALTERNATOR. JUMP THE CAR AND WIFE MAD AS CAN BE. I DON'T NEED THIS FROM A HONDA CAR. *TR

Mileage: 53,650

DASHBOARD LOW TIRE PRESSURE LIGHTS UP FOR NO REASON, SERVICE DEPT..WRITER AT BARBER HONDA IN BAKERSFIELD, CA TOLD ME THAT'S IT'S A MAJOR PROBLEM WITH MANY OTHER HONDA MODELS AND HAVE TOLD THE HONDA HEADQUARTERS BUT THEY IGNORE IT AND DON'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. I HIRED A LEMON LAW ATTORNEY ABOUT THIS ISSUE NOW.

Mileage: 2,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS AT STAND STILL AND WHEN SHIFTING GEARS FROM PARK, IT STALLED TWICE WITH AN HOUR. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT CALLED LOCAL DEALER MOON TOWNSHIP HONDA LOCATED AT 5802 UNIVERSITY BLVD, MOON, PA 15108, (412) 269-4100, WERE MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN DIAGNOSED OR BEEN REPAIRED AS OF YET. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN INFORMED OF FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 15,000.

Mileage: 15,000

THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE HAS AN EFFECT ON THE SWITCH THAT OPENS THE REAR HATCH ON THE CAR. IF THE TEMPERATURE IS IN THE 30'S IT WILL NOT OPEN UNTIL THE CARS HEATER WARMS THE INTERIOR OF THE CAR SUFFICIENTLY.THIS IS AN ELECTRIC SWITCH THAT MAY BE DEPRESSED ON EITHER SIDE. PRESSURE ON THE SWITCH IS NOT A FACTOR. I HAVE HELD THE SWITCH FOR 30 TO 60 SECONDS ON A COLD MORNING WITH NO RESULTS. THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR HAS BEEN PARKED FOR SEVERAL HOURS EVEN IN A GARAGE. TEMPERATURE SEEMS TO BE THE ONLY FACTOR. THERE IS NO OTHER WAY TO RELEASE THE HATCH LATCH OTHER THAN THE PRESSURE SWITCH ON THE REAR GATE. THIS HAS BEEN A CONSTANT PROBLEM SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW AND CONTINUES TO DATE.I HAVE SEEN SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON BLOGS FROM CRV OWNERS WITH NO SOLUTION FROM DEALERS.

TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR KEEPS GOING/STAYING ON EVEN THOUGH TIRES ARE PROPERLY INFLATED. DEALERSHIP WON'T COVER COST TO FIND PROBLEM AND REPAIR IT. IT IS A KNOWN DEFECT REPORTED BY MANY USERS.

Mileage: 25,000

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS FOR THE PAST YEAR, THIS CAR HAS STALLED WHEN YOU PRESS THE GAS PEDAL. YOU PRESS THE GAS, THE CAR "CHUGS," AND EITHER SLOWS DOWN AND HAS TO CATCH UP TO ITSELF, OR IT COMPLETELY SHUTS OFF. IT HAPPENS PULLING OUT OF THE DRIVEWAY, AT STOP SIGNS, AND INTERSECTIONS. WE'VE BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP MULTIPLE TIMES, AND THEY CAN'T FIND THE PROBLEM. IT EVEN STALLED ON THEIR TECH ONCE, BUT THEY STILL COULDN'T FIX IT. THEY SUGGESTED REPLACING THE BATTERY, SO WE DID, AND NOTHING CHANGED. THIS IS INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS, AND NOBODY AT THE DEALERSHIP OR THE CORPORATE OFFICE DID ANYTHING TO ADDRESS THE ISSUE. I BELIEVE THIS CAR SHOULD BE RECALLED AND OFF THE ROAD IMMEDIATELY.

FOR THE 3RD TIME IN A YEAR MY CAR BATTERY WAS DRAINED AFTER PARKED IN THE GARAGE FOR THE WEEKEND. VERY FRUSTRATING WHEN YOU HAVE A NEW VEHICLE THAT IS NOT DEPENDABLE. I TOOK IT TO THE HONDA DEALERSHIP AND THEY TESTED THE BATTERY AND SAID IT WAS FINE. AFTER A LITTLE RESEARCH I SEE THAT HONDA HAS BEEN AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM FOR YEARS, I GUESS MORE PEOPLE NEED TO FILE A COMPLAINT BEFORE THEY ARE FORCED TO OFFER A RECALL AND FIX THE PROBLEM. I WILL NOT BUY ANOTHER HONDA!

Mileage: 34,000

UPON ENTERING AND ATTEMPTING TO START THE SUV, AFTER CLOSING THE DOOR AND BUCKLING THE ENTIRE SYSTEM WILL NOT START INTERMITTENTLY. STRANDING THE PASSENGERS AND REQUIRING A BOOST FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE OR TOW TRUCK. THE LIGHTS COME ON WHEN YOU ATTEMPT TO START THE VEHICLE BUT THE ENGINE ONLY CLICKS AND FAILES TO START. A CERTIFIED MECHANIC HAS INVESTIGATE THE ALTERNATOR, AND BATTERY, BOTH WERE FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY. THERE HAVE BEEN NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME ISSUE.

Mileage: 68,000

THE BACK HATCH WILL NOT OPEN ESPECIALLY WHEN IT IS COLD OUT

Mileage: 20,000

IN LESS THAN 3 YEARS OF MY 2016 HONDA CRV OWNERSHIP, I HAVE GONE THROUGH THREE BATTERIES. AS SUCH THE CAR IS VERY WELL MAINTAINED, DRIVEN ABOUT 25K MILES AND MOSTLY ON HIGHWAYS. CRV WOULD NOT START AND REQUIRED JUMP START, TO SAY NEEDED TWICE IN THE LAST WEEK ITSELF. LUCKILY SINCE I WAS STILL UNDER HONDA WARRANTY, I DID NOT PAY FOR THE BATTERIES BUT THINKING ABOUT GETTING LESS THAN A YEAR ON HONDA 'S ORIGINAL BATTERY IS INSANE. SOMETHING MUST BE SERIOUSLY WRONG WITH THIS MAKE/MODEL OF THE VEHICLE.

Mileage: 22,000

AFTER SITTING IN VEHICLE WITH RADIO PLAYING ON ACCESSORY FOR 20 MINUTES THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START REQUIRING A BOOST FROM AAA. AFTER RETURNING HOME AND IN MY DRIVEWAY I CHECKED THE VOLTAGE ON THE BATTERY WITH THE ENGINE OFF AND IT READ 12.31. I STARTED THE VEHICLE AND THE VOLTAGE READ 13.22 AFTER A FEW SECONDS IT WENT DOWN TO 12.25 INDICATING IT WASN'T CHARGING. I TURNED ON THE HEADLIGHTS AND THE READING JUMPED TO 14.11 AND REMAINED THERE ABOUT UNTIL I TURNED THE LIGHTS OFF WHEREUPON IT RETURNED TO THE LOWER PART OF 12 VOLTS.

Mileage: 20,100

THE CAR WILL NOT START. IT BLINKS 'ACCESSORY MODE' WHEN YOU TRY TO START IT AND YOU CANNOT GET THE CAR OUT OF IT WITHOUT HAVING SOMEONE JUMP THE CAR BATTERY. THIS HAS NOW LEFT MY WIFE STRANDED TWO TIMES AND BOTH TIMES WE HAD TO FIND SOMEONE TO JUMP HER.

Mileage: 35,000

IGNITION STARTED MAKING A ZAPPING NOISE UPON STARTING. I WOULD THEN HAVE TO TRY TO START AGAIN. ONE DAY IT FINALLY DIDN'T START AT ALL. THEY STATED MY BATTERY WAS NO GOOD AFTER APPROXIMATELY 28K MILES. FAST FORWARD 7 MONTHS LATER AND THE IGNITION IS MAKING THE SAME ZAPPING NOISE YET AGAIN. AFTER LOOKING ONLINE, THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL

Mileage: 28,000

THE HEADLIGHTS TURN ON RANDOMLY AND OFF WHILE DRIVING IN FULL SUNLIGHT. THE LIGHTS HAVE COME ON WITHOUT INPUT WHILE THE CAR IS PARKED AND THE IGNITION IS OFF. AMERICAN HONDA HAS AUTHORIZED AND REPLACED BOTH THE WIRING HARNESS AND THE FUSE BOX IN AN ATTEMPT TO FIX THIS ISSUE. THEY HAVE REFUSED TO DO FURTHER WORK ON THIS VEHICLE AND THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. ONCE THE BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD IN THE MORNING WHEN I TRIED TO USE IT. IT WAS DRIVEN THE NIGHT BEFORE. THE LIGHTS HAVE TURNED THEMSELVES ON WITH NO INPUT FROM THE KEY FOB OR THE DRIVER WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED. MULTIPLE PEOPLE HAVE WITNESSED THE CAR DOING THIS. I HAVE MANY MP4 FILES DOCUMENTING THE HEADLIGHTS COMING ON AND GOING OFF AT RANDOM WHILE DRIVING. UNDER THE DESCRIPTION OF "WHEN DID THIS HAPPEN" I PUT THE REPORTED DATE TO THE DEALERSHIP. IT HAPPENS MOST EVERY TIME THAT I DRIVE THE CAR FOR ANY EXTENDED PERIOD OVER A FEW MILES.

Mileage: 10,193

ELECTRONIC TRUNK SYSTEM/HATCH BACK DOOR SWITCH DOES NOT OPERATE IN COLD CONDITIONS . HONDA DEALER IS REQUIRED TO OPEN HATCH BACK TO GAIN ENTRY. THERE IS NO WAY FOR A CONSUMER TO MANUALLY OPEN HATCH BACK DOOR. EXPENSIVE REPAIR OF $300.00+. PART NUMBER 74810-T0A-A02 .

Mileage: 24,000

VEHICLE WAS SITTING IDLE AT A STOP LIGHT, AFTER BEING DRIVEN FOR APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES AT SPEEDS RANGING FROM 25-50MPH. THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FLASHED, THEN WENT DARK, THOUGH THE VEHICLE WAS STILL RUNNING WITH NO OTHER ISSUES IMMEDIATELY NOTED. DRIVER PULLED INTO A PARKING LOT ABOUT 300' AWAY, PUT THE VEHICLE INTO PARK, AND UPON EXITING SAW FIRE COMING FROM THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT RESPONDED, BUT THE VEHICLE WAS FULLY INVOLVED BY THE TIME THEY ARRIVED ON SCENE 7 MINUTES LATER.

Mileage: 25,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 HONDA CR-V. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE ENGINE SHUT OFF AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. IN ADDITION, THE POWER STEERING AND BRAKES FAILED TO OPERATE. THE VEHICLE WAS COASTED TO A STOP ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND TOWED TO COMMUNITY HONDA (8340 W 159TH ST, ORLAND PARK, IL 60462, (708) 364-2600). THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT THE WATER PUMP, GASKET, AND ALTERNATOR BELT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND PROVIDED A CASE NUMBER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 41,000.

Mileage: 41,000

ON 02/12/2016 I WAS PULLING OUT OF MY GARAGE AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE AT THAT MOMENT, THEM I WENT TO TURN MY 2016 CRV IT WAS ONLY GOING ABOUT 1 1/2 MILES PER HOUR, BUT THE CRV WOULD NOT STOP, THE CAR ONLY HAD 3,924 MILE TOO. SO I HIT MY NEIGHBORS GARAGE DOOR AND SIDE OF HER HOME AND THE CAR STOP AFTER IT WENT OVER HER FOUNDATION OF HER HOME. I LOOKED DOWN AND SAW THAT I WAS PRESSING AS HARD AS I COULD ON THE BRAKE BUT IT DIDN'T WORK. THIS ALL TOOK ABOUT 20 SECONDS, TO FAST. I HAD THE BRAKES CHECK WHICH MECHANICALLY PASS ALL TEST 100%. BUT ON THE ELECTORAL DID PASS. 2 CODE CAME UP. 1). U300616 - POWER SOURCE FAILURE FOR ECU (LOW VOLTAGE) FOR THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKE AND THE SAME CODE FOR TIRE PRESSURE. SO IT NOT THE MECHANIC OF THE CRV IT'S THE ECU BOX THE BOX WHICH EVERYTHING GOES THRU. SO IT'S ELECTRICAL NOT MECHANICAL. AND YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN. THE 2016 CRV SHOULD BE RECALLED ON THE ECU BOX. I NEVER WILL DRIVE THE CRV AGAIN. YOU COULD REALLY KILL SOMEONE. THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION SHOULD LOOK DEEP INTO THIS AND HAVE A RECALL. I DID CONTACT AMERICAN HONDA CORPORATION AND THEY DID RESEARCH IT, BUT I WAS GOING ON THAT IT WAS MECHANICAL NOT ELECTRICAL. AMERICAN HONDA WOULD HELP. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE, SO I HOPE THE NHTSA LOOKS INTO THIS.

HI EVERYONE, I HAD A FEW TYPO'S. 1). THE ELECTORAL DIDN'T PASS AND AMERICAN HONDA WOULDN'T HELP. THANKS

REAR TRUNK / HATCH WILL NOT OPEN WHEN TEMPERATURES ARE BELOW FREEZING. HAS OCCURRED MANY TIMES. DEALER DUPLICATED THE ISSUE AND REPLACED THE SWITCH STATING THAT THEY VERIFIED COMMUNICATION WAS LOST TO THE SWITCH WHEN COLD. THE ISSUE STILL OCCURS EVEN AFTER REPLACEMENT, BUT DEALER STATES ALL THEY CAN DO IS REPLACE AGAIN BECAUSE NO RECALL HAS BEEN ISSUED BY HONDA.

Mileage: 10,500

WHEN TEMPERATURES GET COLD, THE BUTTON TO OPEN THE REAR HATCH WILL NOT WORK. THIS CAUSES THE OWNER TO NOT BE ABLE TO ACCESS THE TRUNK

Mileage: 40,000

OEM BATTERY FAILURES. CAR WOULD NOT START. STOPPED ON CITY STREET. SAFETY ISSUE. FAILED AT HOME TOO. MANUFACTURER DEFECT.

Mileage: 18,000

LOCK-OUT WITH KEY FOB INSIDE THE CAR, CAR WAS NOT RUNNING, PARKED AT WORK. THE CAR BASICALLY 'LOCKED' ME OUT WHEN I PUT MY PURSE AND KEYS INTO THE CAR, OPENED THE HOOD SO I COULD FILL THE WIPER FLUID RESERVOIR , CLOSED THE DOOR TO GET WIPER FLUID OUT OF THE BACK AND THE CAR LOCKED THE DOORS. ACCORDING TO THE LOCKSMITH THAT OPENED MY CAR, THIS IS A WELL KNOWN PROBLEM - AND NOT JUST WITH HONDA CARS. THANK GOODNESS I WAS STILL AT WORK AND IN A SAFE LOCATION.

Mileage: 11,600

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2016 HONDA CR-V. WHILE DRIVING 15 MPH AND MAKING A LEFT TURN, THE CONTACT CRASHED INTO ANOTHER VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A SPARK WAS OBSERVED NEAR THE FLOORBOARD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE AND A FIRE IGNITED. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED AND THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED FOR THE FAILURE. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND THE CONTACT WAS AWAITING A CALL BACK. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 1,200.

Mileage: 1,200

RODENTS CHEWED THROUGH THE WIRING FOR THE ELECTRIC POWER STEERING CAUSING IT TO FAIL. FORTUNATELY THIS HAPPENED IN THE PARKING LOT AT THE APPARTMENT AND WAS ABLE TO BE MANUVERED INTO A SAFE PARKING SPACE.

Mileage: 13,000

ON 6/18/17 PULLING INTO PARKING SPOT DOING 3 MPH CAR ACCELERATED JUMPED OVER CONCRETE SIDEWALK AND HIT A BRICK WALL. NO BRAKES WORKED CAR STRUCK BRICK WALL AND WOULD NOT SHUT OFF. NO AIR BAGS WERE DEPLOYED BUT SENSOR STATED AIR BAGS DEPLOYED AFTER VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED. CONTINUOUS INCREASE IN RPMS WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE. PREVIOUSLY CAR WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO STATED CAR WAS FINE AND THAT I HAD TO GET USED TO THE TRANSMISSION. VEHICLE ALSO HAD SURGING WHEN GOING DOWNWARDS ON A HILL. VEHICLE LOADED WITH EVERY SAFETY FEATURE BUT NONE WORKED!!

Mileage: 10,427

ELECTRIC POWER STEERING COMPLETELY BROKEN, CAR BROUGHT BRAND NEW, ONLY 6K MILES - OWNED 6 MONTHS. CAR COMPLETELY UNDRIVABLE. WIRES ARE COATED IN SOY SO RODENTS EAT WIRES, HONDA ADMITTED TO THIS HAPPENING TO MANY PEOPLE BUT WILL NOT TAKE FAULT. NOT SAFE TO DRIVE, CAN NOT TURN WHEEL. HAD TO GET CAR TOWED TO DEALERSHIP, THEY WILL NOT PROVIDE RENTAL.

2016 HONDA CR-V. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VEHICLE TRANSMISSION HESITATES, FAIL TO ACCELERATE AND CUT OFF. DEALERSHIP STATED NOTHING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE/ *SMD

NTSB: 2016 HONDA CRV: CONSUMER STATED THE CAR WILL STOP WHILE IN DRIVE, AND IT WILL ALSO KEEP MOVING WITH THE ENGINE STOPPED WITHOUT SOMEONE DRIVING. *SS THE CONSUMER STATED HE WAS ABLE TO BRING THE VEHICLE TO A STANDSTILL ON A SLOP., WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STILL IN DRIVE, HE WAS ABLE TO PRESS THE BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE ENGINE. THE CONSUMER STATED IN DOING SO, THE VEHICLE COULD POSSIBLY ROLL AWAY. *JB

THE CAR OPERATES ON A KEYLESS IGNITION, AND USES PUSH BUTTON START. THE ISSUE IS, ONCE THE CAR IS RUNNING, IT WILL STAY RUNNING WITHOUT THE COMPUTER FAB KEY IN THE CAR. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD, I CAN LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN AND WALK OUT OF THE CAR WITH THE KEY IN HAND AND IT STAYS RUNNING, A CHILD OR SOMEONE CAN GET IN THE CAR AND SHIFT THE GEAR LEVER CAUSING SERIOUS INJURY. ALSO THERE WAS NO WARNING WHEN I LEFT THE CAR WITH THE COMPUTER KEY IN MY POCKET AND NO FLASHING OF LIGHTS OR BLINKING OR HORN NOISE. THIS IS A VIOLATION OF THE NHTSA LAWS THAT NO VEHICLE SHOULD BE RUNNING ONCE THE KEY HAS LEFT THE CAR. WELL THIS VEHICLE CONTINUES TO RUN WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE CAR, THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. THE VEHICLE SHOULD SHUT OFF AFTER THE KEY HAS LEFT THE CAR. THIS PUSH BUTTON START IS CHEAP AND CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. THE CAR SHOULD SHUTOFF WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE CAR. I LEFT THE CAR WITH THE DOOR OPEN AND KEY IN MY POCKET, THE CAR FAILED TO SHUT OFF BECAUSE THE PUSH BUTTON HAS TO BE PRESSED TO SHUT OFF. THE CAR IS SUPPOSE TO SHUT OFF WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE CAR PER NHTSA RULES AND REGULATIONS

Mileage: 600