2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA Power Train Problems

Dual clutch transmission failed at 49,000 miles

The vehicle has experienced ongoing powertrain and electrical malfunctions over several months. The most common symptoms include being stuck in 4th gear (limp mode), complete loss of RPM and speedometer readings, and illumination of the check engine and ESC lights. Most recently, while traveling at approximately 10 mph, the vehicle experienced a sudden loss of both acceleration and braking. The brake pedal became stiff and unresponsive, and the car had to coast to a stop without driver control. This posed a serious safety risk to myself and nearby traffic. These issues have persisted across multiple service visits to Ricart Hyundai in Groveport, Ohio. That dealership has replaced the crankshaft position sensor three times, the powertrain control module (PCM), and the battery, but the underlying problems remain unresolved. A technician at the dealership was able to reproduce the stalling event during a test drive. Despite that, the dealership has refused to proceed with further diagnostics unless I pay for an oil change, even though previous inspections by their own staff found no visible leaks and confirmed the oil level was sufficient at the time. They have also revoked complimentary access to a loaner vehicle despite the unresolved and unsafe condition of the car. The vehicle remains available for inspection. The problem has been confirmed by a dealership, has occurred repeatedly, and continues to pose a safety concern. Warning lights and gauge failures typically appear when the issue occurs.

Timing chain looseness, Sudden loss of engine power/motive power. Vehicle was sold, unknown if available for inspection. Engine failure on and in the middle of the interstate/highway, and this caused a major crash risk, and safety hazard. This make and model of vehicle has multiple reports of similar incidents. The repairs would’ve cost over 3 times the value of the car. As stated by the vehicle manufacturer, the entire engine would need to be replaced, with a factory built engine in order to comply with NHTSA and safety regulations. I’m no longer in possession of the vehicle. It was sold. While the vehicle was operating, and drivable there would be a chime and a flashing check engine light/indicator on occasion. Although no codes were present at maintenance center, therefore unable to identify the exact cause.

My car has been stalling and shaking for months on acceleration. This has put me in unsafe situations where vehicles are going very fast on the highway and I am going 20 miles under the speed limit, or I am accelerating to merge and my car fails to accelerate, or I'm on the regular road and my car slows to a crawl while people are coming in fast behind me. The Error Code is: Cylinder 3 misfire. Took it to the dealer, they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it because the light was not on, they updated the software, as soon as I drove home the problem came back. They still charged me $200 for service, even thought the vehicle is under powertrain warranty which covers the cylinder block head and all internal parts. Online research shows this is a common problem in 2017 Hyundai Elantras. Many tried replacing coils and spark plugs only for the problem to return again a few months later. One successful fix found the computer needed to be replaced with a new one.

The clutch/transmission clunks or jerks randomly when accelerator is pressed to gain speed, from stop or passing, in any drive mode. Believe this has been going on the past several years.

My 2017 Elantra with 107,000 miles (it has a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty) on it has just experienced the same issue as all of the other Hyundais that have been recalled. I was driving on Xmas evening 2024 and started hearing my engine making noises I had not heard before when excellerating but then they would go away. On my way home the check engine light went on for a couple of minutes but then went off and I was able to get home although the car did not seem to be riding well. The next day, the check engine light went on again and so I brought it in to my mechanic. He said that there were metal fragments/shavings in my oil that were clogging my engine, etc. He said that I need a new engine and said he had several other Elantras with the same issue and that I should take it to a Hyundai dealer because of all of their recalls/Class Action Lawsuits which extend warrantees, etc. for the same exact issue. I was able to drive the car there but it was not a safe drive. Their assessment was basically that I need most of my powertrain replaced to the tune of $4100.00 but once they get in there, it might be more extensive and end up having to be replaced. However, they did not say anything about the metal fragments and when I brought it up to them, they acted like they didn't see them. However, my mechanic (with no skin in the game) said they were all over the place in my car's oil. So, I am a little wary that they decided to skate that issue, since it is the basis for all of their Class Actions, etc. I'm kind of stuck, Hyundai has my car and it really isn't drivable. I've checked many Elantra forums and have seen that this is happening to Many other 2017 Hyundi Elantra SE even though they have not yet been added to the recalls/Class Actions, etc. I really think that the Hyundai engine issue is more widespread than just the cars on the current list and I hope that this is looked into as it is extremely dangerous and comes on very quickly without warning.

Mileage: 107,000

Was driving my car noticed that it was running a little rough and took it in for an oil change thinking maybe it was being a little weird because of that. I religious have my oil changed routinely. The gentleman changing my oil told me there was oil in the engine. Went to Hyundai and they did a diagnostics and told me that something had come off in the engine and clocked the oil gallery not allowing oil to flow through engine and power train. Was told it would be a $9000 engine replacement. I only have 93000 thousand miles on it still owe 3000 on it. Hyundai knows that their engines have been having issues. Salesman at Hyundai was trying to force me to buy a new car because of this issue. he was only going to give me 2500 on my car but told me if it had been in perfect condition then he would've 6000. This is not something I did to my engine it was something that came off in the engine and blocked the flow of oil

Our Hyundai Elantra Se 2017, engine blown. Started with knocking sound and when we stopped on the side of the highway it powered down. We have been told that unfortunately so many of hyundai's vehicle engines have been super problematic within the last decade. We were stranded on vacation. Had to pay for towing twice and a rental car to get back to North Carolina because we had to get back to work. We also have had to pay to diagnose the vehicle twice. We had the issue diagnosed with an independent service center Tuffys Auto in St. Johns Florida and now it currently is at Hyundai in St. Augustine. We have been without our vehicle for over a month and with the trending problems with these engines we shouldnt have to come out of pocket to fix it. Hyundai corporate has not been helpful at all even though we have had a case manager for over a month and they havent given us any info.

I'm having issues with my car and I don't feel safe riding in it. While driving it start to coast. If I make a turn it shuts down. I am having some of the same issues some elantra having but because the VIN# doesn't show a recall I'm penalize for having this car.

For the past two weeks, the car has intermittently stalled out and the engine, oil, and battery lights come on. The dashboard electronics and radio stay on. When this happens, I have to put the car in park and turn it off, then turn it back on. It has restarted immediately each time and drives normally. It has stalled out multiple times in a day, but not everyday. I took it to my mechanic twice to pull an error code from the warning lights, but he could not. My safety and the safety of others were put at risk when it stalled out while I was deaccelerating on an exit ramp that merges with three other lanes. I could have been hit from behind by others exiting the interstate highway or hit on either side of my car from drivers switching lanes at that junction. It stalled out the same day in the middle of a roundabout, where drivers yield and merge at 30 mph. I've noticed that when it stalls out, I'm usually braking or the vehicle is turning. The car is currently at the mechanic, who has not yet been able to reproduce the stalling and warning lights, but he did pull a diagnostic trouble code: P010600; Description: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance. He's not sure if it's a faulty sensor or if something is causing the trouble code since the warning lights weren't on with the code. The car has not yet been inspected by the dealership or others.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive power. The contact was able to pull to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle was able to be restarted. After restarting the vehicle, the vehicle returned to normal functionality, but the failure became a regular occurrence. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 95,000.

Mileage: 95,000

My vehicle keeps shutting down while I’m driving. It happened 5 times in the past week and twice today. It happens when I’m driving slow to make a turn or after the car has been stopped for a while (i.g. stop light and drive through window). Three out of five times were in areas where I could safely restart my car. The other two were in the middle of a busy expressway while making a turn and passing through a busy intersection. I was almost hit from behind. The car that swerved to avoid hitting me was also nearly hit by a vehicle in the other lane. I’ve done research and several other people had this issue but there’s no recall on my car. I don’t know if it’s a battery issue or electrical wiring, etc., but it is terrifying. Each time it happens my vehicle makes a strange rattling nose and I can’t quite tell where it’s coming from. The car also shakes for a while afterwards.

when driving (typically at a low speed) the engine will shut off with no warning.

The engine is making weird noises and the vehicle is stalling and is not accelerating. If am trying to accelerate the crank shaft noise is coming from the engine. Koi

Car would just stall out while driving! Would have to put car in park and then try to turn back on. Also burning through oil very fast. Had to replace the timing belt just for 20K miles later having the same issue!

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated upon coming to a complete stop, the vehicle accelerated unintendedly over a concrete bar and drove up a hill. The contact depressed the brake pedal but to no avail. The contact steered the vehicle to the right direction to avoid entering a pool. She then crashed into multiple objects including trees, concrete parking bars, and multiple vehicles before coming to a stop. The air bags did not deploy upon impact. The contact was taken to the hospital by ambulance and was treated for injuries to her neck and back. A police report was filed. Due to the failure, the vehicle was towed to an independent tow yard where it was destroyed. Parking barriers and trees were damaged as a result of the failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 25,000.

Mileage: 25,000

Have had the vehicle throw a code for a misfire 4 times in the 30,000 miles I have driven it. The times I have taken it to Hyundai dealerships in Northglenn and Boulder, Colorado they tried an update and just swap ignition coils to different cylinders. Example misfire is cylinder 3. They swap number 3 and 4 ignition coils to see if they can recreate the problem I the new cylinder. There is already a TCS 20-FL-001h. I recommend a full recall of these defective ignition coils be put out as the problems are still occurring. The problem is reoccurring and the time it takes to get into the shop is 3 weeks out at this time. By the time I get it in the code usually resolves and I have to wait until I get violent shakes and poor acceleration to indicate it is back. Had an accident in January if 2023 and it seemed the brakes were t working as they should. Twice after that the brakes felt as if they weren’t stopping as well as they should. I took the vehicle in and had the rear drum brakes adjusted and that seemed to fix the problem.

I’ve been having problems with my timing chain and power train for over a year. Got the timing chain fixed and now all i’m seeing is new problems with bad ignition coils and spark plugs and transmission problems. I’ve only had this car for 4 years and keep the maintenance up to date.

Engine has about 84,000 miles on it and car recently through a code reading E78 and E79. Further research on the codes other Kia and Hyundai owners reported car threw same codes before the engine blew or threw the engine rod. I will have car checked out at dealership as it’s still under warranty

I am the owner of a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. I bought the car for my daughter for transportation to and from school and work. As her boyfriend was driving on a 3-lane highway in heavy traffic, the car would no longer accelerate, and the steering wheel locked. The engine just stopped and seized up. The car lost all power and steering capability. He rolled the car into the left-hand turn lane. A police officer pulled up about 30 seconds later, said that he was obstructing traffic, and to move the car out of the turn lane. Her boyfriend had to push the car across the median, and 3 lanes of traffic, to get to the opposite side of the highway's shoulder, by himself. When he nearly had the car off of the road, on the opposite side of the highway, a pedestrian approached and helped him finish pushing it out of the road. This could have caused a major car accident, or someone could've been killed or injured while pushing the car. I have moved one hour away from my daughter, so I cannot provide her with a ride to and from school and work. She and I are stuck paying $301.18/mo on a car that is inoperable; it's just sitting and rotting at her apartment complex. We are also stuck paying $135.87/mo for her car insurance on a car that is inoperable. Also, this model year, 2017, has a problem with peeling paint too. The car has missing paint patches all over. Previously, at just 51,000 miles, the car had stalling problems. The car would just shut off while driving. It was repaired at Hyundai. When we got it back, it was still doing the same thing, and had to go back in again for service at Hyundai. I filed a formal complaint with Hyundai Consumer Affairs. Hyundai should have already issued recalls for these problems that many people are experiencing. I've been doing research and have found that this year and model Hyundai is very problematic. They are refusing to take responsibility by not issuing recalls on these recurrent problems that they're aware of.

UNKNOWN. Battery died out on my twice, every two years. Motor needed to be replaced after 5 years.

My car stalled twice while driving on my way to work and had a weird knocking sound. I brought this to my local mechanic and they believed it was Rod Knock cause by premature rod bearing failure. They said this is a common issue with Hyundai 2.0L 4 cylinder engines and told me to reach out to a Hyundai dealership. The first dealer I called said if it was the rod bearing it would be covered under an extended warranty. That dealership couldn’t get me in for 3-4 weeks so I called the dealership I purchased the car new at. They said the same thing that it was a common issue with the 2.0 4 cylinder engines and said they could get me in in less than a week. I paid to have my car towed to them on Friday and they called me this morning confirming that it is a worn rod bearing and informed me I would need a new engine. They said that my specific VIN is not covered by their extended warranty covering this specific issue. It is my understanding that specific models using the same engine are covered but for some reason mine is not. I just spent over $2000 on the engine with issues that they said they wouldn’t cover and now they want me to pay them over $7000 to replace the engine on an issue they are aware of in this 2.0l engine they manufactured. Please help me to rectify this issue with my car. I cannot afford $7000+ for a new engine and I certainly cannot afford a new car. This car is less than 6 years old and I would have expected power train to last significantly longer.

Started having intermittent misfires on various cylinders, specifically cylinder 3. (Code P0303) This would mainly cause the engine to stall, or idle. No accidents or injuries to report, but having a car stall out at 80 MPH on the freeway is certainly scary as hell. Just frustration and possible damage to other parts of the engine (spark plugs and some wiring). Took vehicle into local auto shop where they reproduced the problem, but informed me of TSB 20-FL-001H, which can only be fixed by a Hyundai dealership due to the ECM reprogramming and the proprietary nature of the tool to perform that. As such I have taken the vehicle to a Hyundai Dealership where, again, they were able to find and diagnose the problem, as well as determine the spark plugs were likely fouled by the known-faulty ignition coil packs. This is the third time in 75,000 miles I've replaced them.

Bad Ignition Colis Poor Fuel Economy: if you notice that your car is getting less mileage from a full tank than normal, this could mean that you have a bad ignition coil. This takes place because, when your, spark plugs aren’t getting a certain power, the system will try to compensate by taking more fuel. Hard Starts And Stalling: the ignition needs to spark at just the right time for the engine to start and a vehicle to run. If an ignition coil is malfunctioning and not delivering the required voltage to the spark plugs, you will find it hard to start the engine. Misfiring Engine: A malfunctioning ignition coil will cause your vehicle to misfire when you accelerate. In some other cases, a misfire could cause your vehicle to shut down while you are driving

This is just to inform the issue that I faced with my car, Hyundai Elantra 2017. The incident happened twice. I was driving once on an interstate, luckily was driving very slow (due to traffic), when I accelerated a from a halt position the car started to jerk and the engine light came up and the car stopped. I then took the car on the shoulder and turned on the car after 5minutes, luckily the light went away and was able to drive back home slowly and safely without any problem then. Thought it's just a one off situation. This again happened when I was driving in the city; Stopped at a signal and was starting from stop position on a signal when the engine light shows up again and car started to jerk again, with that on I slowly drove 1 mile back to home. The next working day I took it to the dealership to get the car checked. The service center said that they will have to replace 4 spark plugs, 4 Coils, and the driver belt. I got that replaced and got the car back finally after 2 weeks. It was disappointing to hear that warranty didn't cover anything. My car is 5.5 years old and 61,000 miles only and the dealership and Hyundai USA declined the request to cover any of the charges saying it's out of warranty. (i.e. just 1000 miles outside the limit of 60K and 6 months outside the window of 5years). Today I just wanted to share the experience that I had and that just at 61000 miles, it gave what seemed to be a big problem with the powertrain and at that time felt unsafe to drive.

1) The transmission has a delay in shifting, and I smell burning under the hood. I took it back to the dealer where I bought it. I was told nothing was wrong with it. The problem has been coming back. The dealership was Dennis Hyuandai on Morse Rd in Cols. Oh. 43219 2) I am afraid I may have this problem on the highway some day, as it has become more frequent. 3) Dealer claims nothing wrong with the transmission. 4) No I didn't know I had this opption. 5) No none. It has been and on and off problem for nearly 2yrs

Engine idles rough, shifts rough, idles high, stalls, and sometimes just simply won't run. CEL came on when it was time for an oil change/service, had oil and filter changed at Express Lube, and had them run a diagnostic on the CEL to make sure it was for the oil change, it was code P0017 cam/crankshaft. They cleared the code to be sure it wasn't just a glitch, CEL came right back on not even 50 miles down the road, and the car stalled in the middle of traffic, barely made it out of harms way with my two children in the car! I bought this car in October 2021, made my first payment in December 2021 and the CEL came on originally in January 2022. After spending the money to have it diagnosed further by my Hyundai Dealer where I purchased the car, the technician confirmed the P0017 code and also that it is a timing chain issue and that it's recommended to just replace the entire motor! The car is barely 4 years old, not even 100k miles, and I am only the SECOND owner! How does this just happen to such a new car with lower mileage that has a good maintenance history just all of a sudden needs a new motor? I can't afford to keep making high payments on an unsafe vehicle. I have searched through the complaints about this specific model and have found several identical cases related to the P0017 code which tells me this is a reoccurring malfunction from Hyundai and they need to own that responsibility before a class action lawsuit is filed. CEL came on at approximately 95K miles which would qualify for the powertrain warranty but since I am the second owner the warranty is no good. Someone help please!!

Check engine light on with diagnostic error code P0304 cylinder 4 misfire detected ignition coil

According to the Hyundai Dealership, located in Corona, CA, the Hyundai Elantra's are known for the ignition coil to go out. This is also not covered under warranty and list below of why it should be: This can cause Engine misfiring in a vehicle whose ignition coils have failed. Trying to start the engine of such a vehicle will result in engine misfiring that sounds like a coughing, sputtering noise. When driving at high speeds, jerking and spitting will be seen in the behavior of the vehicle. A vehicle with a failed ignition coil will also result in vibration when it is idling at a stop sign or light. Driving with a faulty coil pack can damage other components of the engine. Also most cars will register a faulty coil and immediately stop gas feed to that cylinder. However, damage may be caused if the fault isn’t registered by the PCM and the dead cylinder continues to receive gas. Your catalytic converter and oxygen sensors may become contaminated by raw gas and need to be replaced. This can be dangerous if it is a known common issue in a Hyundai Elantra and cause an accident when travelling at a higher speed. I was at a stop when this problem occurred for me but was able to safely move out of the way.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle, the vehicle was idling rough. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic where it was diagnosed with needing the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. The vehicle was repaired but continued to experience failure. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and informed the contact that they were unable to assist. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.

Mileage: 80,000

Drove my car yesterday when it stalled. I was able to start it again and pulled to the side of the highway. The engine was knocking loudly. I turned off the car and called a tow truck. When hyundai received my car they told me it was the rod bearings.they initially told me id be covered regardless of warranty as its a known issue. They called me late that day and told me they won't cover it since I'm 18,000 over the powertrain warrenty. This very problem has been recalled from 2013 upto 2019. However my car isn't listed. They told me ill need a new engine which costs $6000 for parts and labor. After researching im not the first this has happened to.

I AM 2ND OWNER OF VEHICLE (BOUGHT WITH 36252 MILES) AROUND 76XXX VEHICLE STARTING MAKING TICKING NOISES I BROUGHT INTO CARMAX WHERE I WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG. I GOT AN OIL CHANGE AND WENT ON MY WAY. 2 DAYS LATER THE CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. BROUGHT IT BACK CARMAX AGAIN STATES NOTHING WRONG. THE CAR IS CONSTANTLY SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING LONG DISTANCE. AT 90525 MY CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING ON A BRIDGE BROUGHT IT INTO HYUNDAI WERE THEY STATED I NEEDED A NEW MOTOR BUT IT WASNT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY DUE TO "SLUDGE" I LIVE IN FL ITS HOT AND I LIVE DOWN A 3 MILE BACKROAD THAT WILL CAUSE BUILD UP ACCORDING TO RESEARCH. HYUNDAI WONT HELP AND THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE ESPECIALLY FOR MY KIDS NOW IM STUCK MAKING PAYMENTS ON A CAR THAT CANT BE DRIVEN AND IM 2000 IN RENTAL CAR FEES. AND DONT HAVE THE BEST CREDIT TO GET ANOTHER CAR. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ASAP AS I SEE THIS COMPLAINT MULTIPLE TIMES

Mileage: 90,252

I BOUGHT MY 2017 ELANTRA SE 2.0 IN APRIL OF 2020 MY CAR KEEPS STALLING WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS AND WHEN I MAKE TURNS LEFT OR RIGHT AT LOW SPEEDS VERY SCARY AND UNSAFE AND ALSO ENGINE NOISES AND SHAKES REAL BAD SOMETIMES AS WELL I STILL OWE 20000 FOR THIS LEMON HYUNDAI SHOULD BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS AS ITS BEEN A SERIOUS PROBLEM FOR YEARS FROM WHAT I READ VERY DANGEROUS THIS HAPPENS ON CITY STREETS AND EXPRESSWAY

Mileage: 119,000

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA BEGAN TO SHAKE AND REFUSED TO SHIFT ABOVE 40MPHS ON A ROAD POSTED 45. THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE RMP GAUGE SHOW THAT IT WAS STUCK AT 2RMPS. I SLOWED THE VEHICLE AND TURN ON MY FLASHERS AND IN MY TRAVELING TO A SAFE PULL OFF LOCATION. THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF, THE SHAKING STOPPED, AND THE CAR RESUME A NORMAL SHIFTING PATTERN. THE VERY NEXT DAY WHILE TRAVELING IN THE CAR THE SAME THING OCCURRED. I EXPLAINED THE PROBLEM WHEN ARRIVED AT HYUNDAI AND WHILE IDLING AND WAITING TO THE CAR PERSON TO CHECK ME IN. THE CAR BEGAN TO DO SHORT SHUDDERS; THIS WAS DIRECTLY WITNESSED BY A CAR SERVICE EMPLOYEE. THE 2ND CYLINDER IGNITION COIL WAS REPLACED. IN MY SECOND VISIT I WAS SURE OF WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS BECAUSE I HAD EXPERIENCED THE SAME CAR SYMPTOMS SEVERAL MONTHS EARLIER. HERE IS THE PROBLEM THIS WAS SECOND CYLINDER I HAVE HAD TO HAVE REPLACED IN ABOUT 3000 MILES AND SEVERAL MONTHS; MY CAR ONLY HAS 25,0000 MILES. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE ON THE REPAIR FORM IT STATES ECU UPGRADE.

Mileage: 25,000

THE CAR HAS BEEN STALLING SINCE LAST FEBRUARY, MOSTLY DURING TURNS, AND WHILE DEACCELERATING. SOMETIMES IT IDLES ROUGH AND STALLS AT TRAFFIC LIGHTS. I TOOK IT TO MY DEALER BACK THEN, AND THEY TOLD ME THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY METAL SHAVINGS FROM THE ENGINE PLUGGING THE VALVE THAT REGULATES FUEL. I HAD PERFORMED REGULAR OIL CHANGES AND THE DEALER BELIEVED THAT THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. THE DEALER CONTACTED HYUNDAI, AND HYUNDAI REFUSED TO REMEDY THE DEFECT. THE PROBLEM TEMPORARILY GOES AWAY IF I GET AN OIL SYSTEM FLUSH, WHICH I HAVE BEEN DOING FREQUENTLY. AFTER ABOUT A MONTH, THE CAR BEGINS STALLING AGAIN, PRESUMEABLY BECAUSE THE SHAVINGS ARE PLUGGING THE VALVE AGAIN. THE CAR HAS BECOME DIFFICULT TO START. THIS MORNING IT WOULD NOT START AT ALL.

Mileage: 110,000

HI TEAM, THERE IS A GRINDING NOISE WHENEVER I SHIFT MY CAR FROM PARK TO DRIVE. IT HAPPENS WHENEVER I SHIFT FROM PARK TO DRIVE/REVERSE OR SLOW DOWN QUICKLY. SO, I AM CONCERNED THAT THERE IS A SAFETY ISSUE HERE. I FEEL REALLY UNCOMFORTABLE DRIVING MY OWN VEHICLE WHEN THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT. THIS PUTS ME TO THINK THAT THIS MIGHT BE A TRANSMISSION ISSUE. THE VEHICLE IS UNDER WARRANTY AND LESS THAN 100,000 KM.

Mileage: 51,573

PURCHASED A HYUNDAI ELANTRA 2017 FROM A DEALERSHIP ON JULY 7, 2020. THE 2ND DAY IT STALLED ON ME FEELING LIKE IT'S IN NEUTRAL WITH ENGINE LIGHT ON. I RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPLACE THE IGNITION COIL AS AND SAID THEY ORDERED A PART TO RETURN IN 2 WKS. THIS HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE AIRBAG UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT. THEY KEPT THE CAR ANOTHER 2 WEEKS. I WAS HAPPY WHEN THEY CALLED THAT IT WAS READY. EACH TIME I HAD TO PAY THE 2 TOLLS TO GO TO THEM IN JERSEY. BEFORE I GOT ON THE GARDEN STATE GOOD, THE CAR STARTED SHAKING, COULDN'T GO OVER 45 MPH WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON AGAIN. I RETURNED IT. THEY KEPT IT 2 WEEKS. I HAVE MY CAR WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON STILL AND CALLED TO COMPLAIN BUT UNABLE TO REACH A MANAGER EACH TIME. I USED UP OVER $200 OF TOLL MONEY WHICH I USED UP PLUS GETTING SOMEONE TO TAKE ME TO DROP OFF OR PICK UP THE CAR HAD TO PAY FOR GAS AND TOLL. PRODUCED THE E-ZPASS RECEIPTS AND EVERYTHING AND EVERY TIME I GO AND ASK FOR THE REFUND, THE OWNER IS NEVER THERE. I DO NOT WANT TO HAVE MY NEW CAR BREAK DOWN WITH ME IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER. I REQUESTED A LIST OF THE THINGS THAT WERE DONE TO TRY TO RESOLVE THE ENGINE LIGHT ISSUE SEVERAL TIMES EVEN FROM THE SALESMAN WHO DOES NOT TAKE MY CALLS OR WHEN HE DOES, HE DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL ME. SAID HE'LL ASK AND GET BACK TO ME. NO RESPONSE. THE FIRST DAY I PAID FOR THE CAR AND WE WERE HAPPY TO BE GOING HOME, MY DAUGHTER AND I NOTICED THE FRONT BUMPER ALL BROKEN UP AND IT WASN'T LIKE THAT WHEN WE INSPECTED AND CHOSE IT BEFORE PAYING. THE SALESMAN SAL SAID THERE'S NOTHING HE CAN DO ABOUT THAT AS I ALREADY PAID FOR THE CAR AND MUST ACCEPT IT THAT WAY. I BROUGHT IT TO A SALESWOMAN ATTENTION THE LAST TIME I WENT TO PICK UP MY CAR AND THEY ONLY SAID THE MANAGER/OWNER WILL REACH OUT TO ME. NEVER HEARD FROM THEM. STILL DIDN'T RECEIVE PLATES. I FEEL LIKE THEY TOOK ADVANTAGE OF ME AS A SENIOR CITIZEN.

Mileage: 74,000

ENGINE TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING, USUALLY AFTER BRAKING BUT ALSO WHILE IN MOTION. LUCKILY, IT WAS AT A STOP LIGHT OR WHILE I WAS IN LIGHT TRAFFIC. IT HAS HAPPENED ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION AFTER DRIVING AN AVERAGE OF 30-40 MINUTES. THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE A PATTERN OR A SPECIFIC REASONING AS TO WHY.

Mileage: 40,600

WHILE DRIVING, ENGINE WOULD TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING. AS I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE THE ENGINE WOULD BE OFF (NO ACCELERATION) AND THE ENGINE, OIL, AND BATTERY LIGHTS WOULD COME ON. DASHBOARD ELECTRONICS AND RADIO WOULD STAY ON. PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURN IT OFF, TURN IT BACK ON - NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS ON AND THE CAR NOW DRIVES AS NORMAL. ALL INSTANCES HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS, MOST INSTANCED HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNING. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I TOOK IT TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. THEY SAID IT WAS BECAUSE I HAD LOW OIL (NO OIL INDICATOR LIGHT HAD BEEN ON). "FIXED" IT BY DOING AN OIL CHANGE. ALL SUBSEQUENT OIL CHANGES HAVE BEEN DONE AT HYUNDAI LAKELAND. 8 MONTHS LATER I EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM. CAR TAKEN TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. DIAGNOSED AS BAD SENSORS IN THE ENGINE (SENDING INCORRECT INFORMATION ABOUT WHEN THE ENGINE NEEDS POWER) AND A BAD CRANKSHAFT (AS A RESULT OF THE STALLING AND BAD SENSORS). BECAUSE OF THE MULTIPLE OCCASIONS THAT THIS HAS OCCURRED AND THE DIFFERENT DIAGNOSES THAT IT HAS HAD FROM THE SAME DEALERSHIP, I AM UNSURE IF THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE LAST REPAIR. AN ENGINE THAT TURNS OFF WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION CREATES A DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE DRIVER AND OTHERS AS THE VEHICLE CEASES FORWARD MOTION. I HAVE BEEN LUCKY THAT THIS ISSUE HAS NOT RESULTED IN A TRAFFIC ACCIDENT.

Mileage: 85,000

THE CAR CUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING.IT STALLS N TRAFFIC LIKE IT WON'T GO N I ALMOST HAVE BEEN HIT SEVERAL TIMES.THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON.VERY DANGEROUS N SCARES ME WHEN I DRIVE CAUSE U NEVER KNOW WHEN IT'S GOING TO CUT OFF N TRAFFIC OR WHILE TURNING.

Mileage: 92,580

VEHICLE IS JERKING, THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FAST ENOUGH, CODE P0190

Mileage: 10

MY 2017 ELANTRA LOST POWER AND DIED WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN A COUNTY ROAD. HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK BEFORE IT WOULD RESTART. *TR

Mileage: 68,000

I BOUGHT A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA LIMITED EDITION AT THE END OF 2016 IT HAD 43 MILES ON IT. I HAVE TAKING IT TO ABOUT 6 DIFFERENT DEALERSHIPS DUE TO TRANSMISSION ISSUES AND ENGINE POWER LOSS AND OUT IF THE 6 I HAVE GONE MORE THE A FEW TIMES. THEIR RESPONSE TO MY CONCERNS ABOUT THE CAR IS WE CANNOT REPRODUCE THIS SO THERE IS NO PROBLEM OR THERE'S NOT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON. EVERY DEALERSHIP THAT I HAVE GONE TO REPEAT THIS SAYING OVER AND OVER. WHEN MY CAR SHIFTS INTO SECOND GEAR IT'S ALMOST AS IF THAT GEAR HAS TWO MORE LIKE DRIVING A STICK SHIFT BUT YOU'RE SHIFTING TOO SOON SO IT SPITS AND SPUTTERS, IN ADDITION TO THIS 3RD 4TH 5TH GEAR HAS A LONG DELAY IN SHIFTING IT ALSO FEELS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AS THE RPMS AND SPEED COME UP IT FEELS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION GRIPS AND YOU CAN FEEL THE TORQUE KICK IN IF YOU WILL. THERE'S BEEN MANY TIMES I HAVE TO MANUALLY SHIFT THE CAR OUT OF 5TH INTO 6TH AND A FEW TIMES OUT OF 4TH. MY CAR HAS 38970 MILES ON IT. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION FLUSH AND THE ENGINE, IGNITION COILS HAVE BEEN REPLACED, I USE PREMIUM GAS AND FUEL INJECTIONS CLEARER. NOWADAYS WHEN I'M DRIVING I HAVE TO PUSH THE GAS PEDAL HALFWAY DOWN FOR THE CAR TO ACTUALLY MOVE. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON ABOUT SIX MONTHS AFTER I GOT THIS CARD.

Mileage: 5,000

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. CAR IS SHAKING HEAVILY AT IDLE, NO CODES OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. NO ONE WILL DIAGNOSE, TURNED AWAY BY DEALERSHIP. WHEN TURNING CAR WILL STALL MIDDLE OF INTERSECTION, THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE. THIS IS UNSAFE AND DEALERSHIP WILL NOT HELP ME AND I AM TURNED AWAY. I'M STARTING TO WORRY ABOUT THE SAFETY OF MY CAR. I MAINTAIN IT UP TO MANUFACTURER STANDARDS. TRANSMISSION IS CLUNKY AND NOT WORKING WELL. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, NO CODES. DEALERSHIP AND OTHER MECHANICS WILL NOT LOOK INTO ISSUES. TRANSMISSION IS SEALED SYSTEM BUT IS IN NEED OF FLUID CHANGE. FLUID IS DIRTY AND FILLED WITH METAL AT 55,000 MILES. OTHER PEOPLE COMPLAIN OF SAME ISSUE AT 35000 MILES. DEALERSHIPS SAY THIS IS A LIFETIME SYSTEM AND DOES NOT NEED SERVICE. THIS CAR IS STARTING TO SEEM UNSAFE. THE AMOUNT OF COMPLAINTS ON HYUNDAI FORUMS TO THIS NATURE SHOULD REFLECT SOME NEED TO MAKE THE CAR NOT DANGEROUS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND FUNCTIONED NORMALLY; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE SHAFT SENSOR WAS REPLACED TWICE, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO PARKWAY HYUNDAI (24050 CREEKSIDE RD, SANTA CLARITA, CA 91355, (661) 750-4042) WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THERE WAS NO FAILURE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THERE WAS NO FAILURE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 66,793.

Mileage: 66,793

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHETHER THE VEHICLE WAS STOPPED OR WHILE DRIVING IN TRAFFIC AND ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, THE VEHICLE HESITATED AND JERKED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO KEN GARFF HYUNDAI (717 SOUTH WEST TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 84101, 801-257-3200) WHERE THE DUAL CLUTCH WAS RESET; HOWEVER, THE REPAIR DID NOT CORRECT THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO YOUNG HYUNDAI (333 WALL AVENUE, OGDEN UT, 84401) WHERE IT WAS KEPT FOR SIX DAYS. THE DEALER CLEANED THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, BUT THE FAILURE CONTINUED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200.

Mileage: 200

'TAKATA RECALL' I HAVE NOTICED THAT MY TRANSMISSION SKIPS OR JERKS RANDOMLY. AS I'M DRIVING ON THE STREETS OR ON THE HIGHWAY... MY RPM'S WILL JUMP UP TO 3, 4, OR SOMETIMES 5 WHEN I'M DRIVING AND HOLDING STEADY AT 2 RPM'S. I ALWAYS DRIVE THE SPEED LIMIT AND NEVER FLOOR MY GAS PEDAL. IT ALSO WILL FEEL LIKE IT'S NOT CATCHING THE GEARS CORRECTLY AND WILL JERK. THIS IS SOMETHING I HAVE NOTICED OVER THE YEARS WITH MY CAR BUT SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE OVER TIME. I DO ALSO HAVE TROUBLE IF I CHANGE MY DRIVE MODE TO 'SPORT'. THE TRANSMISSION DOESN'T SEEM TO GRIP THE GEARS WHEN NEEDED SO I NEVER REALLY USE THE SPORT MODE.

Mileage: 5,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE CONTACT HAD TO SWERVE TO MISS ANOTHER VEHICLE; HOWEVER, WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE STRUCK A CURB, FLIPPED OVER, AND LANDED UPSIDE DOWN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE EXHIBITED THE SAME SYMPTOMS AS LISTED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V471000 (POWER TRAIN). ONLY THE DRIVER SIDE AIR BAG DEPLOYED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE TOW YARD. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. IT WAS UNKNOWN IF THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN AND FAILURE MILEAGE WERE UNKNOWN.

THE CAR WAS PURCHASED AS A NEW CAR WITH 3 MILES ON THE ODOMETER FROM AN AUTHORIZED HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN JUNE 2016. IN AUGUST 2018, THE CAR WAS DRIVEN FOR A LITTLE OVER 30,000 (HIGHWAY)MILES AND WAS CHECKED FOR THE 30K-MILE-SERVICE AT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP. THE DAY AFTER, ENGINE CHECK LINE TURNED ON AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN SHAKING HEAVILY IN BOTH HIGH AND LOW SPEED. ALTHOUGH I KNEW THAT THE ISSUE WAS RELATED TO THE ENGINE MISFIRE, AND WAS ABLE TO PROVIDE A OBDII SCAN RESULTS FROM AUTOZONE, BUT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP COMPLETELY IGNORED ALL INFORMATION I PROVIDED. IN FACT, THEY BOASTED ABOUT HOW WELL THEIR "HYUNDAI SCANNERS" ARE THE ONLY SCANNERS THAT CAN CORRECTLY SCAN THE VEHICLE. CONSEQUENTLY, I HAD TO MAKE FOUR VISITS TO THE DEALERSHIP WITHIN FIVE DAYS IN ORDER FOR THEM TO ADMIT THEIR MISTAKE AND FIX THE PROBLEM. HOWEVER, NOW THE ENGINE IS STILL THROTTLING IN AN UNUSUAL MANNER AT A VERY SUBTLE LEVEL. I SPOKE TO THE HYUNDAI'S REGIONAL CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER ABOUT HOW THIS MISFIRE COULD LEAD TO DANGEROUS SITUATIONS ON A HIGHWAY WHERE A DRIVER'S AT A GREATER RISK IN HIGHER SPEED TRAFFIC. BUT THE RESPONSE WAS SIMPLY ADVISING ME TO CONTINUE VISITING THE DEALERSHIP.

Mileage: 33,463

THIS COMPLAINT IS INVOLVING USA AUTO CARE AND ABC HYUNDAI I WENT TO HAVE AN OIL CHANGE DONE AT USA AUTO CARE AND A WEEK LATER MY OIL PLUG FELL OUT OF MY CAR AND I LOST ALL MY OIL HAD MY CAR TOWED TO HYUNDAI HYUNDAI PUT A NEW PLUG IN THERE REFILLED WITH OIL SHOW ME EVERYTHING WAS OKAY SO I PROCEEDED TO GO TO USA AUTO CARE NUMBER FOR AND TRY AND GET THE MONEY THAT I PAID TO ABC HYUNDAI FOR THE OIL IN THE PLUGS ON MY WAY MY ENGINE LOCKED UP CAR CAME TO A STOP AND SHUT OFF I THEN HAVE THE CAR TOWED BACK TO HYUNDAI AND WAS NOTIFIED BY HYUNDAI THAT MY ENGINE WAS PRETTY MUCH DONE FOR CALL PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE MY INSURANCE AT THE TIME NOTIFIED THEM OF THE CLAIM THEY SENT SOMEONE DOWN TO TAKE PICTURES THEY GOT BACK WITH ME AFTER A FEW DAYS AND MY CASE WAS TRANSFERRED TO ABOUT THREE DIFFERENT PEOPLE BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL AGENT HAD TO LEAVE FOR MATERNITY LEAVE AND I WAS NOTIFIED BY ONE OF THE OTHER AGENTS THAT WAS ON MY CASE THAT IT WOULD NOT BE COVERED BY PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE BECAUSE IT WAS A NON COMPREHENSIVE ACCIDENT AND THAT IT WASN'T IN A PHYSICAL ACCIDENT CAUSING BODY DAMAGE I ALSO CALLED MY WARRANTY BECAUSE MY CAR IS BRAND NEW AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS BOY BECAUSE I DID NOT HAVE THE OIL CHANGE DONE AT HYUNDAI AFTER A COUPLE OF WEEKS I WAS NOTIFIED BY ABC HYUNDAI THAT MY CAR WAS FIXED THOUGHT IT WAS THROUGH THE WARRANTY AND THEY CHANGE THEIR MIND BUT MY INSURANCE WENT AHEAD AND COMPLETED THE CLAIM THEY NEVER NOTIFIED ME OF THEM TAKING THE CLAIM NO EMAILS OR CORRESPONDENCE WHAT I WAS NOTIFIED BY ABC HYUNDAI TO COME GET MY CAR I WAS TOLD THAT I HAD TO PAY A $1,000 DEDUCTIBLE AND THAT MY INSURANCE WENT AHEAD AND COMPLETED THE CLAIM I AM ON SOCIAL SECURITY I DO NOT HAVE $1,000 SITTING AROUND AND I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT PROGRESSIVE COULD NOT COVER IT NOW I'M STUCK BECAUSE I CAN'T AFFORD THE DEDUCTIBLE AND I CAN'T USE MY CAR TO DO UBER AND MAKE THE MONEY I NEED SOME GUIDANCE IN THIS

Mileage: 32,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPED OUT OF GEAR. TODD ARCHER HYUNDAI IN BELLEVUE, NEBRASKA WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THE TRANSMISSION WAS PERFORMING AS IT SHOULD. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 6,000.

Mileage: 6,000

THE CAR HESITATES, JERKS AND PULLS AT THE ACCELERATION MOMENT WHEN STOPED. FOOR INSTANCE IM LIGTHS OR TRAFFIC JAMS. IT CAUSES A COMPLETELY LOST OF POWER AND TERRIBLE SHAKING. THIS HAPPENS AFTER 20MINS DRIVE AND THE GOES FOR THE REST OF THE DAY, IT IS MORE EVIDENT DRIVING IN CITY.

Mileage: 14

THIS VEHICLE ACCELERATES MORE THAN EXPECTED (LUNGES) WHEN I PUT IT IN DRIVE AND RELEASE THE BRAKE WITHOUT EVEN HAVING MY FOOT ON ACCELERATOR. ON FLAT SURFACE IT BEGINS TO MOVE AHEAD SPONTANEOUSLY WITHOUT MY FOOT ON GAS PEDDLE. I BROUGHT TO DEALER AND THEY SAID THIS IS TYPICAL FOR ELANTRA AND NOT A KNOW ISSUE. IT HAS BEEN MENTIONED BY OTHER DRIVER'S ON REDDIT. THE ONLY SOLUTION IS TO HAVE ONE FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND THE OTHER ON ACCELERATOR TO PROTECT FROM SUDDEN ACCELERATION. THERE MUST BE A SOFTWARE/HARDWARE SOLUTION. CREATES RISKY SITUATION BECAUSE ONE COULD INADVERTENTLY HIT PEDESTRIAN, CAR IN FRONT AT STOP, ROLL INTO TRAFFIC, ETC. WORST CASE WOULD BE IF SOMEONE UNFAMILIAR WITH VEHICLE DRIVES IT, IE, RENTAL CAR OR FRIEND. I PUT IN THE DATE I HAD IT CHECKED BY HYUNDAI SERVICE. THEY SAID IT MIGHT NEED TO "BREAK IN" AND TIGHTEN UP AS PARTS WEARS" AS HOPEFUL COMMENTS FOR RESOLUTION.

Mileage: 2,500

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE HESITATED WHILE MAKING LEFT OR RIGHT TURNS. THE VEHICLE ALSO HESITATED WHILE THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS BEING DEPRESSED UPHILL. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, BUT DID NOT OFFER ASSISTANCE. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE ISSUE HAD BEEN PRESENT EVER SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED ON MAY 11, 2017. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 260.

Mileage: 260

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE TRUNK SUDDENLY OPENED AND THE VEHICLE ROLLED DOWN THE DRIVEWAY WHILE THE CONTACT WAS INSIDE HIS HOME. THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL WAS STOPPED ON A CURB. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TRUNK OPENED UNEXPECTEDLY SEVERAL TIMES PRIOR. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE FAILURES COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 576.

Mileage: 576

DATE: 14 JAN 2017 ODOMETER: 1214 MILES PROBLEM: CHEMICAL SMELL IN PASSENGER COMPARTMENT: -- NOT SURE, BUT MIGHT BE ENGINE OIL -- CAUSED SEVERE, LONG-LASTING HEADACHE, NAUSEA AND DIZZINESS. PROBLEM: WHEN ENGINE IS COLD: -- CONTINUOUS CLICKING SOUND COMING FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT. -- SOUND STOPS WHEN CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED TO SHIFT GEARS, THEN STARTS AGAIN WHEN GEAR IS ENGAGED. AFTER ENGINE WARMS UP AND AM ON THE HIGHWAY: -- SOUND SEEMS TO STOP, BUT CANNOT BE SURE BECAUSE OF ROAD NOISE PROBLEM: ICE DROPLETS DISCOVERED INSIDE WINDSHIELD. BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. SEE PHOTOGRAPHS.

Mileage: 1,094

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE AFTER TURNING CORNER, VEHICLE ALMOST STOPS, THEN SURGES AHEAD. THIS OCCURS INTERMITTENTLY AND ALSO WHEN PULLING AWAY FROM STOP LIGHT.

Mileage: 800

WHEN SHIFTING FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE ON AN INCLINE USUALLY SENDS ME HEADING BACK IN REVERSE AGAIN UNTIL I APPLY THE BRAKE PEDAL HARD FOR A FEW SECONDS. THIS HAPPENED TO ME A LOT IN MY DRIVEWAY AND MOST RECENTLY ON A STEEP MOUNTAIN, WHICH WAS REALLY SCARY. THE VEHICLE STARTS FROM STATIONARY MOTION TO REVERSE, THEN STOP, SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND IT ROLLS BACK IN REVERSE AGAIN. ALMOST LIKE A MANUAL TRANSMISSION DOES. PLEASE INVESTIGATE.

Mileage: 2,400