2022 HYUNDAI KONA Unknown Or Other Problems

February 2023: horn failure. Pressed the car's horn, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make to warn others of possible danger. It continued to not work and needed to be replaced. Part 96611-J9500 was replaced.

JANUARY 2024: HORN FAILURE. Pressed the car's horn, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make to warn others of possible DANGER. It continued to not work and needed to be replaced. Part 96611-J9500 was replaced AGAIN.

August 2024: Horn malfunction/failure. Pressed the car's horn, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make to warn others of possible danger. It continued to not work and needed to be replaced for the third time. Part 96611-J9500 (Horn Assembly) was replaced for the THIRD time on this vehicle.

December 2025: Yet ANOTHER horn failure. Pressed the vehicle's horn to alert another driver that they were drifting into my lane on the highway, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make. It needed to be replaced again for the FOURTH time. Part 96611-J9500 was replaced—AGAIN. This is a continued safety issue that Hyundai has neglected to address and fix. Spontaneous horn failure is a HAZARD. The horn is there to warn others of possible danger.

My horn on my car has went out the first time and now it just went out again and it’s a manufacturing issue! Hyundai refuses to fix it because it’s not under warranty anymore! And it’s so dangerous now since I don’t have a horn again! I should have not have to fix it when it’s not my fault! And other people have the same issue with your Kona’s to! The dealership even told me that’s it’s been an issue with the horns!

The horn is not working. On forums for this specific car it is a common problem for this make and model. This means I cannot alert other cars or pedestrians

I purchased a 2022 Hyundai Kona brand new, and since day one it has had serious performance issues — specifically, harsh jolting during acceleration and occasional stalling. These symptoms are dangerous, especially when driving in traffic, merging, or crossing intersections. I discovered that a recall existed prior to my purchase, but it was not performed until after nearly two service visits — even though I had already reported these symptoms. I was never informed of the recall by the dealership before those visits. After the recall was eventually performed, the issues continued, and the dealership began doing software resets during service visits. However, these resets have not resolved the problem, and the symptoms return shortly after. The dealership claims there’s nothing wrong and refuses to escalate the issue. I have contacted Hyundai Consumer Affairs and am working with a national case manager, but there is still no resolution. I do not feel safe driving this vehicle. I believe this may be related to a defect in the transmission control system, electronic throttle, or dual-clutch transmission. I’m requesting that NHTSA investigate this as a safety-related defect, as it has persisted since purchase and affects both the safety and drivability of the vehicle.

The horn stopped working less than a year after I bought the car brand new. The dealer finally agreed to repair/replace it in Feb 2024. Less than a year later it is not working again. A horn is important for alerting other drivers to impending collisions. It also leaves me without a panic button, another important safety feature.

I have had my horn replaced three separate times at my local Hyundai dealership. It recently passed the NC vehicle inspection, but the horn failed the third time sometime after that inspection in Feb-2025. I have never had a horn EVER fail on ANY car I have owned for the past 50 years. A horn is a critical safety necessity and it is expected to work - especially in times of emergency. I was almost run off the highway, once by a semi-trailer and each time I discovered my horn had failed - it was due to my needing to use it to alert pedestrians or other motor vehicles to avoid accidents. The dealer would not reveal WHY this has failed three times except to state that they 'replaced the horn'. The dealer is the only one to have attempted an examination, diagnosis and supposed repair for this problem. There are no warning lights or other type of notification that would let me know of a horn failure. The only way to know that it had failed - was my immediate need to employ the use of the horn in an emergency - and it's silence aka malfunction at the worst possible times.

On February 3rd 2025, directly after putting my Kona in park, I felt it pulsing, saw the RPM dial bouncing repeatedly up and down, and the overhead lights flickering in rhythm with the vibrating/pulsing and RPM dial bounces. I recorded this incident, then turned my car off and on again at which point these observations could not be repeated - in other words, the car was acting fine. There were no other observable issues until March 1st, 2025, when these exact symptoms emerged under different circumstances. I came to an idle at a red light (with the auto-start/stop feature turned off for this drive) when the RPM bouncing, car pulsing back and forth, and lights flickering happened again. My car felt as though it was about to stall this time until, thankfully, the light turned green and I could accelerate. The issues dissipated with acceleration. I have this incident on video as well. I have a little over 63K miles on this car. I drive all day for my job, so it's used often for short trips throughout the city.

Horn stopped working for third time. Replaced by dealership twice, awaiting parts for third repair.

At Carmax in Hillside I'll about 3 weeks after I bought this used 2022 Kona the engine check light came on with code p2181. Cool system code. Possibly the thermostat is not working properly.13399 miles on August 9 2024

I purchased this 2022 Kona used with 12,000 miles in April 2024. On 4 occasions it has failed to start. When starting the vehicle with push button I only heard a series of clicking. There was no other sound made while trying to start the car. My husband had a remote jumper and attached it to the battery as directed on the jumper, then pushed the start button. The vehicle started immediately. The vehicle then ran normally. I episode occurred after the vehicle sat while we were away for 2 weeks on vacation. Again, using the remote jumper, the vehicle started immediately. Another occasion, the vehicle was driven that day and when attempting to move the car from the driveway into the garage, it once again failed to start. Just a series of clicking sounds. Application of the remote jumper once again started the car immediately. On the 4 th occasion (XXX) I was stopped at a traffic light waiting for the right turn arrow to appear. It was raining hard. The vehicle cut off (as it normally does when idling while stopped) then the dashboard went dead. The safety flashers would not work nor could I restart the car. This time there was no sound or clicking. I exited the vehicle in heavy rain and traffic, got the remote jumper from the trunk, raised the hood in the rain and heavy traffic and proceeded to attach the jumper to the car battery. The car started immediately. This last occasion of the vehicle shutting down was extremely dangerous. As I stated it occurred in a heavy rain in a very congested and heavily traveled city road. Visibility was poor due to the weather and lack of safety flashers (Toledo, Ohio at the corner of [XXX] ). I was fearful standing outside the vehicle with so much traffic. I was blocking the right turn lane so people behind me were not happy. I am [XXX] and unable to push it to the side of road. I believe that intersection has a left turn lane, 2 straight lanes, and the right turn lane. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B

Horn fails in very cold weather. When the horn is depressed/pushed down on, no sound is produced. The first and second incident caused it to stop working completely. During the THIRD incident, repeated pressing of the horn would eventually produce a weak sound that would eventually grow louder. This compromises safety because the horn cannot be counted on to alert others to imminent possible danger/collision. The dealer confirmed it twice and replaced the horn twice. The first incident was remedied by replacing the horn fuse. The vehicle gave absolutely no warning or symptoms that the horn was going to fail to produce any sound. Incident dates: 12/25/2022, 02/26/2023, and 01/18/2024

Horn needs replacing. No bodily damage was done.

This car has had 8 dct codes. Oil pump replaced, thermostat replaced, radiator replaced, horn replaced, thermostat housing and thermostat replaced again, ignition wires replaced, oil sensor replaced. Most issues happened before car was 1 years old. Car is always fixed free of charge at dealership. Car was shaking if I went over 20 mph

As I was backing out of my driveway, I noticed my camera started flashing a green screen and a message appeared intermittently with the flashing green screen saying ‘no camera signal try again later. This lasted the entire time I was backing up including once I shifted into drive then it disappeared. I feel that this is a safety risk to others who may be walking or driving by me if I am unable to use the camera. Clearly I don’t rely completely on the back up camera as I still tend to look at my surroundings as I back up. I am not even certain if someone was behind me if the warning would even work when the camera is acting up. I have not reported the problem to the dealer yet but I will first thing in the morning. The vehicle has not been inspected yet. The warning messages are described in the first paragraph. Today is first time this has happened. I have a video of this but was not able to attach it.

Transmission failed, to start with it wouldn’t go into reverse, then while trying to drive in forward it stalled and shut everything down with a code message going across the screen a possible condition with your transmission control system has been detected.a full check system is recommended to be done soon.please contact your local dealership to make appointment. Had to have car towed to dealership transmission would not operate at all.

The horn does not work. The fuse is fine, it is the horn itself that does not work.

While at a complete stop at and intersection the idle stop and go system shut the engine down. When I took my foot off the break the engine started but as soon as I stepped on the gas pedal, the engine shut down. The cluster gage told me out the vehicle in neutral and restart. This issues has happened numerous times. Most times were while stopped in traffic and could have been a factor in a car rear ending me. I have taken the vehicle to the dealership. They are very helpful and were able to replicate the issue. After conferring with a Hyundai Motors tech line, who said this has been a problem with other 2022 Konas, the dealership did replace a solenoid but the issue remains. The were no warning or check engine light at all.

Randomly the check engine light turns on and the car begins to violently shake. This is the second day this already happened and only happened while on the highway. The car is only 3 weeks old with just over 1000 miles on it. After pulling over on the side of the road and turning the car off and on, the problem disappeared and the check engine light turns off. The vehicle does not acknowledge that there was an issue. After doing some research, it seems to be consistent with a common issue with Hyundai vehicles having defective ignition coils. Common issue in multiple Konas, Elantras and other Hyundai vehicle The danger of the control of the car on the highway when this issue occurs at random is sufficient enough to ensure that all these vehicles are recalled to get the problem fixed.

I went to use the horn at a car that blew through a stop sign and there was no horn sound. This was my first time using the horn since I bought it brand new. No warning lights no nothing.

I purchased in July 2021 todays date is Nov 22nd it has been 5 months and for the second time I get to my parked car and the power locks don’t work with the key fob and the engine simply will not start. The first time I had the tow truck guy jump start the engine and it worked up until today, I took it in for a diagnostic and they said the battery was healthy everything checked out. Today again Nov 22 I get to my car again won’t unlock and engine simply will not turn on with key entry model SE. This time I had them tow to the dealership for more evaluation. This is a road hazard what happens if the engine decides to stop working while driving the vehicle? Both times I double checked and I did not leave any lights on everything was shut off only thing blinking was the security alarm system. I believe it is a manufacturer defect in the engine since the battery tests out fine.