High Severity Issue
This component has been associated with crashes, fires, or deaths.
This Problem Across All Years
For the past 9-10 months and on occasions, when I step on the brake pedal to either slow down or stop from a normal cruise speed, the engine rpm quickly jumps up to 2000 - 2500 rpm. I have to quickly brake harder and *place the auto transmission selector in NEUTRAL to fully stop the car from lunging forward*. The date below is the most recent date.
For the past 9-10 months and on occasions, when I step on the brake pedal to either slow down or stop from a normal cruise speed, the engine rpm quickly jumps up to 2000 - 2500 rpm. I have to quickly brake harder and *place the auto transmission selector in NEUTRAL to fully stop the car from lunging forward*. The date below is the most recent date.
FIRST OFF. I'M A MECHANIC SO THIS SHOULD THROW YOU FOR A LOOP. AT 130,000 MILES MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT KEPT COMING ON. IT SAID ENGINE RUNNING RICH. SO I COULDN'T FIND A PROBLEM WITH FUEL INJECTORS OR SENSORS OR ANY LEAK FROM INTAKE OR EXHAUST. MY IDLE WAS RUNNING HIGH SO I REPLACED FUEL INJECTORS, THEN MAF SENSOR, THEN O2 SENSORS AND STILL A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. IT SAID ENGINE RUNNING RICH "BANK 1 RUNNING RICH". THEN IT STARTED TO PUTT AND LOSE POWER. THE OVERALL PROBLEM WAS MY CLUTCH WAS GOING. AFTER IT STARTED TO SLIP I REPLACED IT AND ALL PROBLEMS WERE GONE. SO I WASTED ABOUT $500 FOR IT TO BE A CLUTCH THAT ALSO NEEDED A NEW THROW OUT BEARING AND SPOON BECAUSE THEY REDESIGNED IT WHEN THERE WAS A DEFFICIENCY BUT NO RECALL ON IT. AND BECAUSE OF THE CODE NOT TELLING ME THE RIGHT PROBLEM I ALSO NEEDED A FLY WHEEL. SO I'M OUT OVER $1400. SO MUCH FOR COMPUTERS THAT ARE SMART IN CARS.
FIRST OFF. I'M A MECHANIC SO THIS SHOULD THROW YOU FOR A LOOP. AT 130,000 MILES MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT KEPT COMING ON. IT SAID ENGINE RUNNING RICH. SO I COULDN'T FIND A PROBLEM WITH FUEL INJECTORS OR SENSORS OR ANY LEAK FROM INTAKE OR EXHAUST. MY IDLE WAS RUNNING HIGH SO I REPLACED FUEL INJECTORS, THEN MAF SENSOR, THEN O2 SENSORS AND STILL A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. IT SAID ENGINE RUNNING RICH "BANK 1 RUNNING RICH". THEN IT STARTED TO PUTT AND LOSE POWER. THE OVERALL PROBLEM WAS MY CLUTCH WAS GOING. AFTER IT STARTED TO SLIP I REPLACED IT AND ALL PROBLEMS WERE GONE. SO I WASTED ABOUT $500 FOR IT TO BE A CLUTCH THAT ALSO NEEDED A NEW THROW OUT BEARING AND SPOON BECAUSE THEY REDESIGNED IT WHEN THERE WAS A DEFFICIENCY BUT NO RECALL ON IT. AND BECAUSE OF THE CODE NOT TELLING ME THE RIGHT PROBLEM I ALSO NEEDED A FLY WHEEL. SO I'M OUT OVER $1400. SO MUCH FOR COMPUTERS THAT ARE SMART IN CARS.
I WAS ATTEMPTING TO TURN LEFT WHILE IN A LOCAL PARKING LOT, BUT AN UNEXPECTED POWER STEERING FAILURE CAUSED VEHICLE TO COLLIDE WITH ADJACENT CURB AND ONTO A CITY FIRE HYDRANT. I WAS TRAVELING AT ABOUT 10 MPH WHEN THIS OCCURRED AND THE GROUND HAD BEEN WET, BUT IT WAS NOT RAINING AT THE TIME OF THE INCIDENT. *TR
I WAS ATTEMPTING TO TURN LEFT WHILE IN A LOCAL PARKING LOT, BUT AN UNEXPECTED POWER STEERING FAILURE CAUSED VEHICLE TO COLLIDE WITH ADJACENT CURB AND ONTO A CITY FIRE HYDRANT. I WAS TRAVELING AT ABOUT 10 MPH WHEN THIS OCCURRED AND THE GROUND HAD BEEN WET, BUT IT WAS NOT RAINING AT THE TIME OF THE INCIDENT. *TR
PREMATURE TRANSMISSION FAILURE DUE TO CATASTROPHIC CLUTCH FAILURE FROM THE CLUTCH PLATE ITSELF ON 2009 MAZDA3 WITH ONLY 18,000 MILES ON IT. CAR WAS BOUGHT NEW FROM DEALERSHIP. CLUTCH FAILURE RESULTED IN AN INCIDENT OF LOSS OF CONTROL OVER THE VEHICLE IN 3 LANES OF TRAFFIC DUE TO LOSS OF POWER THROUGH THE DRIVELINE. *TR
PREMATURE TRANSMISSION FAILURE DUE TO CATASTROPHIC CLUTCH FAILURE FROM THE CLUTCH PLATE ITSELF ON 2009 MAZDA3 WITH ONLY 18,000 MILES ON IT. CAR WAS BOUGHT NEW FROM DEALERSHIP. CLUTCH FAILURE RESULTED IN AN INCIDENT OF LOSS OF CONTROL OVER THE VEHICLE IN 3 LANES OF TRAFFIC DUE TO LOSS OF POWER THROUGH THE DRIVELINE. *TR
MY 2009 MAZDA 3 HAS EXPERIENCED OVER HEATING OF THE TRANSAXLE (TRANSMISSION) WHEN OPERATING IN OUTSIDE TEMPERATURES OF 100 DEGREES AND OVER. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER AND TALKED TO MAZDA CORP. AND THEY HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. THEIR ONLY ADVICE IS TO PULL OVER AND LET THE TRANSMISSION COOL DOWN. THIS HAS BECOME A SAFETY PROBLEM DUE TO HAVING TO PULL OVER IN SOME LESS THAN SAFE AREAS.
MY 2009 MAZDA 3 HAS EXPERIENCED OVER HEATING OF THE TRANSAXLE (TRANSMISSION) WHEN OPERATING IN OUTSIDE TEMPERATURES OF 100 DEGREES AND OVER. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER AND TALKED TO MAZDA CORP. AND THEY HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. THEIR ONLY ADVICE IS TO PULL OVER AND LET THE TRANSMISSION COOL DOWN. THIS HAS BECOME A SAFETY PROBLEM DUE TO HAVING TO PULL OVER IN SOME LESS THAN SAFE AREAS.
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2009 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE HESTIATES TO ACCELERATE APPROXIMATELY 1 1/2 QUARTER TO 1 1/4 BEFORE THE VEHICLE MOVED. THE FAILURE HAS BEEN OCCURRING SINCE AUGUST OF 2008. THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN TAKEN TO THE AUTO SHOP TWICE FOR THE ISSUE AND EACH TIME THE CONTACT IS ADVISED THAT IT IS A NORMAL OCCURRENCE AND NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. THE CONTACT DISAGREES BECAUSE THOSE SECONDS MAKE THE DIFFERENCE IF A CRASH WERE TO OCCUR. FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1000. 4/01/09 *NJ THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO HESITATE WHEN HE STEPPED ON THE GAS. UPDATED 04/09/09.*JB
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2009 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE HESTIATES TO ACCELERATE APPROXIMATELY 1 1/2 QUARTER TO 1 1/4 BEFORE THE VEHICLE MOVED. THE FAILURE HAS BEEN OCCURRING SINCE AUGUST OF 2008. THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN TAKEN TO THE AUTO SHOP TWICE FOR THE ISSUE AND EACH TIME THE CONTACT IS ADVISED THAT IT IS A NORMAL OCCURRENCE AND NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. THE CONTACT DISAGREES BECAUSE THOSE SECONDS MAKE THE DIFFERENCE IF A CRASH WERE TO OCCUR. FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1000. 4/01/09 *NJ THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO HESITATE WHEN HE STEPPED ON THE GAS. UPDATED 04/09/09.*JB