This Problem Across All Years
THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. I HAD THE CODE CHECKED AND IT IS THE COOLING SENSOR. THE VEHICLE IS NOT OVERHEATING AND LIGHT WILL GO OFF FOR A SHORT TIME AND THEN COME ON AGAIN. *TR
THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. I HAD THE CODE CHECKED AND IT IS THE COOLING SENSOR. THE VEHICLE IS NOT OVERHEATING AND LIGHT WILL GO OFF FOR A SHORT TIME AND THEN COME ON AGAIN. *TR
I CURRENTLY OWN A MAZDA 6 (2006) WHICH I ACQUIRE O MARCH 13, 2007. SINCE FEBRUARY 15, 2007 MY CAR STARTED TO STALLS AND SHUT OFF. I HAD TAKEN MY VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER (MAZDA JIM CLICK) FOR REPAIRS SINCE THE PROBLEM ARISE. WHEN I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE I ALSO PAID FOR AN EXTENDED WARRANTY PLATINUM (PAS). THE EXTENDED WARRANTY IS FOR 72 MONTHS OR 100,000 MILES WHICH EVER OCCURRED FIRST WHICH INCLUDE ANY MECHANICAL OR ELECTRONIC PROBLEMS IN THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN IN THE SERVICES DEPARTMENT FOR REPAIRS FIVE DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. THEY HAD EXCHANGES PARTS OFF THE VEHICLE BECAUSE APPARENTLY THAT WAS THE ISSUE BUT UP TO THIS MOMENT THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. BACK IN JUNE 6, 2006 I TOOK MY VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER FOR THE SAME ISSUE. THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT KEPT MY VEHICLE FOR 39 DAYS; MY CAR WAS RETURN TO ME ON JULY 15, 2008 AND APPARENTLY AGAIN THE CAR WAS FIXED. ON AUGUST 2, 2008 THE VEHICLE STALL AND SHUT OFF AGAIN; THE PROBLEM PERSIST FOR 3 DAYS ON A ROLL AND THAT'S WHEN I DECIDE TO CALL JIM CLICK SO THEY CAN TOWED THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER. SINCE THAT DATE THE DEALER IS STILL TRYING TO LOCATE WHAT IS CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO STALL. NOW THE DEALER DECIDES TO EXCHANGE THE COMPUTER IN THE VEHICLE. WHEN THE DEALER TOWED BY VEHICLE BACK TO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT ON AUGUST 4, 2008; I INFORMED THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT MANAGER THAT I WILL BE CONTACTING THE BBB FOR THIS ISSUE. CURRENT MILES: 52300 (APRX.). AT THIS MOMENT I HAVE A CLAIM OPEN WITH THE BBB AND MAZDA NORTH AMERICAN OPERATIONS HAS CONTACT ME. *TR
I CURRENTLY OWN A MAZDA 6 (2006) WHICH I ACQUIRE O MARCH 13, 2007. SINCE FEBRUARY 15, 2007 MY CAR STARTED TO STALLS AND SHUT OFF. I HAD TAKEN MY VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER (MAZDA JIM CLICK) FOR REPAIRS SINCE THE PROBLEM ARISE. WHEN I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE I ALSO PAID FOR AN EXTENDED WARRANTY PLATINUM (PAS). THE EXTENDED WARRANTY IS FOR 72 MONTHS OR 100,000 MILES WHICH EVER OCCURRED FIRST WHICH INCLUDE ANY MECHANICAL OR ELECTRONIC PROBLEMS IN THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN IN THE SERVICES DEPARTMENT FOR REPAIRS FIVE DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. THEY HAD EXCHANGES PARTS OFF THE VEHICLE BECAUSE APPARENTLY THAT WAS THE ISSUE BUT UP TO THIS MOMENT THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. BACK IN JUNE 6, 2006 I TOOK MY VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER FOR THE SAME ISSUE. THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT KEPT MY VEHICLE FOR 39 DAYS; MY CAR WAS RETURN TO ME ON JULY 15, 2008 AND APPARENTLY AGAIN THE CAR WAS FIXED. ON AUGUST 2, 2008 THE VEHICLE STALL AND SHUT OFF AGAIN; THE PROBLEM PERSIST FOR 3 DAYS ON A ROLL AND THAT'S WHEN I DECIDE TO CALL JIM CLICK SO THEY CAN TOWED THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER. SINCE THAT DATE THE DEALER IS STILL TRYING TO LOCATE WHAT IS CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO STALL. NOW THE DEALER DECIDES TO EXCHANGE THE COMPUTER IN THE VEHICLE. WHEN THE DEALER TOWED BY VEHICLE BACK TO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT ON AUGUST 4, 2008; I INFORMED THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT MANAGER THAT I WILL BE CONTACTING THE BBB FOR THIS ISSUE. CURRENT MILES: 52300 (APRX.). AT THIS MOMENT I HAVE A CLAIM OPEN WITH THE BBB AND MAZDA NORTH AMERICAN OPERATIONS HAS CONTACT ME. *TR
2006 MADZA 6 WITH TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS CUSTOMER STATES THAT THE CAR HAS BEEN SITTING AT THE DEALERSHIP FOR A MONTH AND THE CAR IS STILL IN DISREPAIR**NAR**CC THE CONSUMER STATED A FEW MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE BEGAN MAKING A GRINDING METAL SOUND. THE CONSUMER PARKED THE VEHICLE LOOKED UNDER IT AND NOTICED FLUID WAS SPILLING OUT. THE CONSUMER TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP AND AFTER 2 WEEKS THE DEALER STATED THE REPAIR WORK WAS FINISHED, HOWEVER 3 DAYS LATER, THE CONSUMER BEGAN TO HEAR THE SAME METAL SOUND AS BEFORE ONLY THIS TIME, THE CONSUMER HAD NO GEARS AND NO CLUTCH. THE CONSUMER THEN RECEIVED A CALL FROM HE DEALERSHIP STATING THE VEHICLE HAD BLOWN A ROD AND THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE AND NOT THE TRANSMISSION. THE CONSUMER WAS TOLD HE WOULD NEED TO PROVIDE RECEIPTS OF OIL CHANGES OR THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT BE FIXED. *JB
2006 MADZA 6 WITH TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS CUSTOMER STATES THAT THE CAR HAS BEEN SITTING AT THE DEALERSHIP FOR A MONTH AND THE CAR IS STILL IN DISREPAIR**NAR**CC THE CONSUMER STATED A FEW MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE BEGAN MAKING A GRINDING METAL SOUND. THE CONSUMER PARKED THE VEHICLE LOOKED UNDER IT AND NOTICED FLUID WAS SPILLING OUT. THE CONSUMER TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP AND AFTER 2 WEEKS THE DEALER STATED THE REPAIR WORK WAS FINISHED, HOWEVER 3 DAYS LATER, THE CONSUMER BEGAN TO HEAR THE SAME METAL SOUND AS BEFORE ONLY THIS TIME, THE CONSUMER HAD NO GEARS AND NO CLUTCH. THE CONSUMER THEN RECEIVED A CALL FROM HE DEALERSHIP STATING THE VEHICLE HAD BLOWN A ROD AND THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE AND NOT THE TRANSMISSION. THE CONSUMER WAS TOLD HE WOULD NEED TO PROVIDE RECEIPTS OF OIL CHANGES OR THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT BE FIXED. *JB
MY NEW 2006 MAZDA 6 SEDAN THAT WAS PURCHASED FROM THE DEALER 30 MILES AWAY FROM S.F.. RIGHT AFTER DRIVEN HOME, IT HAD THE SEVERE OVERHEATING SMELL INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE CAR. SUCH OVERHEATING SMELL OCCURRED EVEN WHEN MOVING THE CAR TO THE CURB. DEALER SAID IT WAS NEW CARS BURNING OFF SMELL. TOOK IT TO THE LOCAL DEALER: CHANGED THE ENGINE COOLING THERMOSTAT, THE RADIATOR CAP, COOLANT RESERVOIR TANK AND RE-FLASHED THE POWERTRAIN. WAS TOLD THAT RESIDUAL SMELL WILL LINGER FOR A COUPLE WEEKS. THE OVERHEATING SMELL PERSISTS INSIDE THE CAR WHEN THE AIR VENT IS SET AT COLD OUTSIDE AIR. USUALLY SMELL STARTS IN ABOUT 5 MINUTES AFTER A MILE OF ORDINARY CITY DRIVE AT 25 MPH TO 35 MPH ON FLAT ROAD. IT GETS STRONGER AND SOMETIMES HOT AIR BLOWS IN WHEN THE DAY IS WARM (AROUND 68F TO ABOVE 70F). IF CAR IS PARKED FOR HOURS IN AN OPEN SPACE AFTER SEVERAL MILES DRIVE, HOT AIR AND SMELL BLOWS IMMEDIATELY AT START AND STAY ON. ON FREEWAY THE SMELL IS LESS STRONG BUT BECOMES VERY BAD WHEN EXIT TO A STOP SIGN. DURING THE COOLER DAYS OF 50F TO 65F, THE ONSET OF THE OVERHEATING SMELL IS DELAY. THERE IS NO SUCH SMELL IN THE VENT AIR WHEN SET FOR ''WARM'' AIR AT NIGHT OR AT ''AIR CONDITION'' TO CHECK IF SMELL IS FROM AIR DUCT. NOW THE CAR HAS 3000 MILES ON IT AND THE SMELL PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. A FEW TIMES I HAVE HEADACHE AFTER DRIVING WITH THE SMELL. FOR THIS PROBLEM I HAVE TAKEN THE CAR FOUR TIMES BETWEEN BOTH DEALERS AND CALLED THE MAZDA CUSTOMER SERVICE CENTER TWO TIMES. EACH TIME THEY DID A PRESSURE LEAK TEST AND TOLD ME THE CAR IS OK WITHIN MANUFACTURER''S SPECS. THEY ALL CLAIMED THAT THERE IS NO SUCH SMELL IN THE DRIVING CONDITIONS AS I DESCRIBED. NOTHING IS DONE BECAUSE THEY CANNOT RECREATE THE PROBLEM. LAST MONTH FOUND OIL STAIN UNDER CAR AND SOME RADIATOR HOSES TURN WHITE WITH POWDER. LAST WEEK THE LOCAL DEALER CHANGED THE LEAKING STRUT AND THE SLIGHTLY LEAKING OVERFLOW TUBE TO THE COOLANT RESERVOIR TANK. IT ALSO SAID COLOR CHANGE OF RADIATOR HOSE INTO ENGINE IS NORMAL. *JB
MY NEW 2006 MAZDA 6 SEDAN THAT WAS PURCHASED FROM THE DEALER 30 MILES AWAY FROM S.F.. RIGHT AFTER DRIVEN HOME, IT HAD THE SEVERE OVERHEATING SMELL INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE CAR. SUCH OVERHEATING SMELL OCCURRED EVEN WHEN MOVING THE CAR TO THE CURB. DEALER SAID IT WAS NEW CARS BURNING OFF SMELL. TOOK IT TO THE LOCAL DEALER: CHANGED THE ENGINE COOLING THERMOSTAT, THE RADIATOR CAP, COOLANT RESERVOIR TANK AND RE-FLASHED THE POWERTRAIN. WAS TOLD THAT RESIDUAL SMELL WILL LINGER FOR A COUPLE WEEKS. THE OVERHEATING SMELL PERSISTS INSIDE THE CAR WHEN THE AIR VENT IS SET AT COLD OUTSIDE AIR. USUALLY SMELL STARTS IN ABOUT 5 MINUTES AFTER A MILE OF ORDINARY CITY DRIVE AT 25 MPH TO 35 MPH ON FLAT ROAD. IT GETS STRONGER AND SOMETIMES HOT AIR BLOWS IN WHEN THE DAY IS WARM (AROUND 68F TO ABOVE 70F). IF CAR IS PARKED FOR HOURS IN AN OPEN SPACE AFTER SEVERAL MILES DRIVE, HOT AIR AND SMELL BLOWS IMMEDIATELY AT START AND STAY ON. ON FREEWAY THE SMELL IS LESS STRONG BUT BECOMES VERY BAD WHEN EXIT TO A STOP SIGN. DURING THE COOLER DAYS OF 50F TO 65F, THE ONSET OF THE OVERHEATING SMELL IS DELAY. THERE IS NO SUCH SMELL IN THE VENT AIR WHEN SET FOR ''WARM'' AIR AT NIGHT OR AT ''AIR CONDITION'' TO CHECK IF SMELL IS FROM AIR DUCT. NOW THE CAR HAS 3000 MILES ON IT AND THE SMELL PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. A FEW TIMES I HAVE HEADACHE AFTER DRIVING WITH THE SMELL. FOR THIS PROBLEM I HAVE TAKEN THE CAR FOUR TIMES BETWEEN BOTH DEALERS AND CALLED THE MAZDA CUSTOMER SERVICE CENTER TWO TIMES. EACH TIME THEY DID A PRESSURE LEAK TEST AND TOLD ME THE CAR IS OK WITHIN MANUFACTURER''S SPECS. THEY ALL CLAIMED THAT THERE IS NO SUCH SMELL IN THE DRIVING CONDITIONS AS I DESCRIBED. NOTHING IS DONE BECAUSE THEY CANNOT RECREATE THE PROBLEM. LAST MONTH FOUND OIL STAIN UNDER CAR AND SOME RADIATOR HOSES TURN WHITE WITH POWDER. LAST WEEK THE LOCAL DEALER CHANGED THE LEAKING STRUT AND THE SLIGHTLY LEAKING OVERFLOW TUBE TO THE COOLANT RESERVOIR TANK. IT ALSO SAID COLOR CHANGE OF RADIATOR HOSE INTO ENGINE IS NORMAL. *JB
THERE SEEMS TO BE NO ONE SIGNIFICANT EVENT THAT HAS LEAD UP TO THE ISSUES I AM CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING. THE PROBLEM HAS GOTTEN PROGRESSIVELY WORSE WITH TIME OVER THE LAST FEW MONTHS. IT STARTED WITH A MINOR STUTTER BACK IN LATE JULY/EARLY AUGUST. IT WORSENED A FEW DAYS AFTER THE COMPUTER WAS REFLASHED FOR THE RECALL IN EARLY SEPTEMBER. I'M NOT SURE IF THAT WAS A CATALYST TO THIS PROBLEM OR NOT SINCE IT WAS STUTTERING BEFORE A LITTLE BIT ALSO. BY LATE SEPTEMBER THE PROBLEM SEEMED TO BE WORSENING. BY MID-OCTOBER IT WAS STUTTERING CONSTANTLY WHEN DRIVING IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. THE PROBLEM WORSENED WITH COOL WEATHER WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD. ON NIGHTS BELOW ABOUT 30 DEGREES, THE CAR STUTTERS AND BUCKS SEVERELY FOR THE FIRST FEW MINUTES UNTIL THE ENGINE IS WARMED UP. ACCELERATION IS SOMETIMES UNPREDICTABLE DURING THIS TIME. SO FAR, MAZDA HAS REPLACED THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR AND UPDATED THE ECU TO THE LATEST AVAILABLE AS OF NOVEMBER. SPARK PLUGS WERE REPLACED PRIOR TO THIS PER MY REQUEST. NOTHING SEEMS TO MAKE AN IMPACT. IT SHOULD ALSO BE NOTED THAT THIS PROBLEM (COLD START) SEEMS TO WORSEN ON ROUGH/UNEVEN ROADS. GAS TYPE (93 OR 94 AND NAME BRAND) SEEMS TO MAKE NO NOTICEABLE IMPACT. *NM
THERE SEEMS TO BE NO ONE SIGNIFICANT EVENT THAT HAS LEAD UP TO THE ISSUES I AM CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING. THE PROBLEM HAS GOTTEN PROGRESSIVELY WORSE WITH TIME OVER THE LAST FEW MONTHS. IT STARTED WITH A MINOR STUTTER BACK IN LATE JULY/EARLY AUGUST. IT WORSENED A FEW DAYS AFTER THE COMPUTER WAS REFLASHED FOR THE RECALL IN EARLY SEPTEMBER. I'M NOT SURE IF THAT WAS A CATALYST TO THIS PROBLEM OR NOT SINCE IT WAS STUTTERING BEFORE A LITTLE BIT ALSO. BY LATE SEPTEMBER THE PROBLEM SEEMED TO BE WORSENING. BY MID-OCTOBER IT WAS STUTTERING CONSTANTLY WHEN DRIVING IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. THE PROBLEM WORSENED WITH COOL WEATHER WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD. ON NIGHTS BELOW ABOUT 30 DEGREES, THE CAR STUTTERS AND BUCKS SEVERELY FOR THE FIRST FEW MINUTES UNTIL THE ENGINE IS WARMED UP. ACCELERATION IS SOMETIMES UNPREDICTABLE DURING THIS TIME. SO FAR, MAZDA HAS REPLACED THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR AND UPDATED THE ECU TO THE LATEST AVAILABLE AS OF NOVEMBER. SPARK PLUGS WERE REPLACED PRIOR TO THIS PER MY REQUEST. NOTHING SEEMS TO MAKE AN IMPACT. IT SHOULD ALSO BE NOTED THAT THIS PROBLEM (COLD START) SEEMS TO WORSEN ON ROUGH/UNEVEN ROADS. GAS TYPE (93 OR 94 AND NAME BRAND) SEEMS TO MAKE NO NOTICEABLE IMPACT. *NM
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE APPLYING BRAKE PRESSURE IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC, THE ENGINE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. AFTERWARDS, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED MOMENTARILY, AND THE ENGINE WAS EASILY RESTARTED. THE DEALER INSPECTED THE VEHICLE, AND PERFORMED A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WHICH DID NOT PRODUCE ANY FAILURE CODES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALERTED.
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE APPLYING BRAKE PRESSURE IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC, THE ENGINE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. AFTERWARDS, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED MOMENTARILY, AND THE ENGINE WAS EASILY RESTARTED. THE DEALER INSPECTED THE VEHICLE, AND PERFORMED A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WHICH DID NOT PRODUCE ANY FAILURE CODES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALERTED.
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE IDLING, A HIGH PITCH NOISE CAME FROM THE ENGINE. THE NOISE WAS ALSO PRESENT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS DURING NORMAL ROAD CONDITIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP WHO DETERMINED THE NOISE CAME FROM THE BELT TENSIONER AND REPLACED IT. THE NOISE PERSISTED AND AFTER A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME, THE DEALERSHIP DETERMINED THE WATER PUMP WAS THE SOURCE OF THE NOISE AND REPLACED THE PUMP HOUSING GASKET. NONE OF THE REPAIRS PERFORMED ELIMINATED THE NOISE AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED. CUSTOMER SERVICE COLLECTED THE INFORMATION BUT NO SOLUTION WAS PROVIDED. THE CONTACT EXPRESSED CONCERN ABOUT THE INABILITY OF THE MECHANICS TO PRODUCE A SOLUTION IN VEHICLE PURCHASED BRAND NEW WITH ONLY 1323 MILES.
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE IDLING, A HIGH PITCH NOISE CAME FROM THE ENGINE. THE NOISE WAS ALSO PRESENT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS DURING NORMAL ROAD CONDITIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP WHO DETERMINED THE NOISE CAME FROM THE BELT TENSIONER AND REPLACED IT. THE NOISE PERSISTED AND AFTER A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME, THE DEALERSHIP DETERMINED THE WATER PUMP WAS THE SOURCE OF THE NOISE AND REPLACED THE PUMP HOUSING GASKET. NONE OF THE REPAIRS PERFORMED ELIMINATED THE NOISE AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED. CUSTOMER SERVICE COLLECTED THE INFORMATION BUT NO SOLUTION WAS PROVIDED. THE CONTACT EXPRESSED CONCERN ABOUT THE INABILITY OF THE MECHANICS TO PRODUCE A SOLUTION IN VEHICLE PURCHASED BRAND NEW WITH ONLY 1323 MILES.
ENGINE POWER DECREASES SUBSTANTIALLY GOING UPHILL WHEN YOU PUSH ACCELERATOR. EVEN AFTER THE RECALL ITEM WAS FIXED (REPROGRAMMED COMPUTER), IT STILL DOES IT, ESPECIALLY ON OTHER THEN 93 OCTANE GAS WHICH IS NOT ALWAYS AVAILABLE. WHEN MERGING INTO TRAFFIC, HAD A FEW CLOSE CALLS WITH ACCIDENTS. *JB
ENGINE POWER DECREASES SUBSTANTIALLY GOING UPHILL WHEN YOU PUSH ACCELERATOR. EVEN AFTER THE RECALL ITEM WAS FIXED (REPROGRAMMED COMPUTER), IT STILL DOES IT, ESPECIALLY ON OTHER THEN 93 OCTANE GAS WHICH IS NOT ALWAYS AVAILABLE. WHEN MERGING INTO TRAFFIC, HAD A FEW CLOSE CALLS WITH ACCIDENTS. *JB
I LEASED MY FULLY LOADED 2006 MAZDA A6 BACK IN DECEMBER OF 2005. EVER SINCE THEN, I HAVE HAD TROUBLE WITH THE CAR. FIRST, THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW WAS NOT GOING DOWN. A FEW DAYS AFTER I BOUGHT THE CAR, I REALIZED THAT THE TURBO KEPT GIVING OUT ON ME. THEN I CAME ACROSS A HUGE DILEMMA, WHERE THE LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL, DRIVE SHAFT, AND ALL THE BOLTS AND HINGES HAD TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE OF A BOLT WHICH WAS NOT TORQUE ENOUGH. THEN, THE BRAKES KEPT MAKING AN ANNOYING NOISE EVEN WITHOUT THE BRAKES APPLIED AT LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS. SUBSEQUENTLY, THE TIRES WEAR AND TEAR WAS HORRIBLE AT 6,000 MILES, TO THE POINT WHERE I SHOULD HAVE REPLACED THEM, AND MAZDA DIDN'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. LATER I FOUND OUT THAT THE AIR PRESSURE IN THE TIRE WAS TOO LOW. AFTER THAT, THE KEYLESS ENTRY/KEYLESS START REMOTE STOPPED WORKING, AND HAD TO OPEN THE CAR MANUALLY, WHICH GOT FIXED AFTER 2 ATTEMPTS, AND JUST REPLACED THE WHOLE THING. NOW, THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE REAR AXLE, AND HOW IT HAS TO BE REPLACED, BECAUSE WHEN THE LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL PROBLEM CAME ACROSS, THEY NEGLECTED TO LOOK OR FIX THE AXLE FROM THE START. NOW THEY HAVE THE COURAGE TO TELL ME THAT I HAVE TO PAY FOR THE AXLE, AND RENT A CAR, AND ALL THE EXPENSES, BECAUSE THEY WERE NEGLIGENT OF LOOKING AT IT FROM THE START. THEY ARE BLAMING THE AXLE ISSUE ON THE TIRES, WHEN THEY WERE BAD TO START WITH AND THE TIRES THAT WERE GOING BAD WERE THE FRONT ONES, NOT THE REAR. *JB
I LEASED MY FULLY LOADED 2006 MAZDA A6 BACK IN DECEMBER OF 2005. EVER SINCE THEN, I HAVE HAD TROUBLE WITH THE CAR. FIRST, THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW WAS NOT GOING DOWN. A FEW DAYS AFTER I BOUGHT THE CAR, I REALIZED THAT THE TURBO KEPT GIVING OUT ON ME. THEN I CAME ACROSS A HUGE DILEMMA, WHERE THE LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL, DRIVE SHAFT, AND ALL THE BOLTS AND HINGES HAD TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE OF A BOLT WHICH WAS NOT TORQUE ENOUGH. THEN, THE BRAKES KEPT MAKING AN ANNOYING NOISE EVEN WITHOUT THE BRAKES APPLIED AT LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS. SUBSEQUENTLY, THE TIRES WEAR AND TEAR WAS HORRIBLE AT 6,000 MILES, TO THE POINT WHERE I SHOULD HAVE REPLACED THEM, AND MAZDA DIDN'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. LATER I FOUND OUT THAT THE AIR PRESSURE IN THE TIRE WAS TOO LOW. AFTER THAT, THE KEYLESS ENTRY/KEYLESS START REMOTE STOPPED WORKING, AND HAD TO OPEN THE CAR MANUALLY, WHICH GOT FIXED AFTER 2 ATTEMPTS, AND JUST REPLACED THE WHOLE THING. NOW, THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE REAR AXLE, AND HOW IT HAS TO BE REPLACED, BECAUSE WHEN THE LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL PROBLEM CAME ACROSS, THEY NEGLECTED TO LOOK OR FIX THE AXLE FROM THE START. NOW THEY HAVE THE COURAGE TO TELL ME THAT I HAVE TO PAY FOR THE AXLE, AND RENT A CAR, AND ALL THE EXPENSES, BECAUSE THEY WERE NEGLIGENT OF LOOKING AT IT FROM THE START. THEY ARE BLAMING THE AXLE ISSUE ON THE TIRES, WHEN THEY WERE BAD TO START WITH AND THE TIRES THAT WERE GOING BAD WERE THE FRONT ONES, NOT THE REAR. *JB