2009 MAZDA MAZDA6 Unknown Or Other Problems

This car was purchased in 2017 and maintenanced regularly. We recently took it to have the oil changed and to check out a noise that was coming from the passenger side. We were told that the subframe was rusted so badly it was too dangerous to drive and would cost $7k to repair. That caught us by surprise and we ended up having to buy a car by the next day. We traded the car in… However, I started doing some research and noted that this is very common and there was a recall between 2010 and 2014. I’m pretty upset that we lost this car without having any recall notification after the purchase. Could this have been taken care of instead of having to get a new car?

I took my car to the mechanic for some routine maintenance and they called to tell me they discovered that the rear subframe is completely corroded. They say the car is not safe to drive, as it could come apart at any moment, and it will cost so much to repair (current estimate is $8000 and still climbing!) that it may be better for me to buy a new car (which I cannot afford). The mechanic expressed shock at how badly the subframe has deteriorated. He said it is in much worse shape than the rest of the car, which I have always maintained carefully. In 2019 my car was recalled for a defective front cross-member, which the dealer replaced. I was told at the time that it was recalled because the coating applied to it was defective and did not protect the part from corrosion. Based on my research, it seems that the same defective coating was applied to the rear subframe, and that it is why it has rusted so quickly and severely. I see that the NHTSA is already aware of this issue - [XXX] . The exact problem I am having is described in [XXX] : "Mazda6 owners told NHTSA there was severe corrosion of the right rear subframes that caused the steering rack mounting bolts to fail." It is completely unacceptable that Mazda replaced the defective part in the front but has not replaced the similarly defective part in the rear, which has failed for the same reason. I am furious that this has made my beloved car, which is otherwise in very good shape and runs beautifully, undriveable. Mazda should be required to repair this severe safety defect, which is entirely their responsibility! Thank you for your time. I look forward to hearing from you at your earliest convenience. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

On October 13, almost lost control of my vehicle while driving at normal speeds in good weather. The car tried to pull off the road with every bump I hit. Drove it to tire dealership as I thought there might be problem with tire or suspension. Mechanic there told me the front engine frame ($595 part, approx $1100 labor) was completely rusted & he didn't know how I was able to drive it. I had it towed to my regular mechanic who said the frame has to be replace. Just in November 2022, I had to pay $290 (parts only) and approx $1100 labor for the rear frame to be replaced due to rust. I know this says the recall had been done but if so, the rear frame shouldn't need replacing again. I tried talking with Mazda for 30 minutes & they were no help. The web is filled with complaints about the front & rear subframes rusting out. It is extremely dangerous for Mazda to ignore this issue. I am attaching receipt from 2022 for the part & will have the receipt soon for the front engine subframe as soon as the mechanic is finished with the work.

The rear sub frame on this vehicle was not painted and/or coated to properly withstand the corrosion that is caused by the salt used to treat the roads in the winter. This can cause serious issues.

Rear subframe corrosion/complete rot out, suspension complete rot out, and other components due to salt from the road and Mazda not correctly painting the components: 2009 Mazda 6I 2.5 Noticable drop in the back of the car. The tire wells are almost touching the rear tires. The rear tires are leaning inward, also putting inside ware on the new tires. The rear of the vehicle fishtails while driving. It takes bumps very hard. No suspension. When you hit a bump, the rest of the car is all over the road. Very dangerous driving conditions, as the fishtailing throws you into other lanes, possibly into other traffic. Took vehicle to Meinke on 3-15-23, was told and shown the damages to the rear suspension and rear subframe and other rear components. Vehicle is not safe to drive until fixed. Called Mazda dealer, was notified of recall on front subframe, but not the rear. Have appointment on 3-29-23 to drop off at Mazda dealer to get the front subframe serviced. My front subframe is not the issue, not that I know of yet anyways. My rear is the issue. Why was it not recalled with the front? Why are they allowed to risk the lives and safety of so many for not servicing the rear also? This needs to be recalled, and I am definitely going as far as I can into getting something done about this. I do not have the funds to pay out of pocket to get this fixed, or funds to go out and buy a new car. I am a mother of a toddler, and disabled. I'm hoping to get a class action lawsuit against Mazda for this, or at the VERY least, a recall to fix this issue also. I live in Indiana, we have some snowy winters, so salt is used on the roadways. I believe the car came from Ohio before I purchased it from Kentucky. I purchased the car on March 27, 2021. Have only had "normal" maintenance issues or water and tare before this, and actually love the vehicle! It has been a great vehicle, other then this issue.

The rear subframe is absoutley rotted out from the car. Bought used and did not see until recently. Car was a Rhode Island car and was in Mass for a while. The rear wheels are concaved in and it is not only my car MULTIPLE owners of this generation car have experienced this these cars obly have the front subframe but not the rear! This particulat rear subframe is especially rotted THROUGH near the suspension! This is NOT ONLY MY CAR BYT MULTIPLES MAZDA 6'S!!! GOOGLE IT! I WILL SEND PICTURES LATER WHEN REQUESTED! IT IS LATE AND RAINING RIGHT NOW!

Component - Rear subframe/crossmember. Yes it is available for inspection. I was driving and suddenly heard a loud crack and the rear drivers side of my vehicle dropped to the ground. I was getting ready to pull into a parking lot so I was luckily driving slowly. If I were traveling at the normal speed limit, I could have wrecked and possibly caused injury to myself or others on the road. Upon inspection from the mechanic, the rear subframe is completely rusted out and broke as a result. After research, I found that the front subframe/crossmember was recalled in 2018 for rust issues. This car had the recalled repaired. But Mazda has no recall for the rear. There were no warnings that this was going to happen.

Right side of the dashboard has become sticky, melting, and causing major reflection issues, day and night

I own a mazda 6 2009 and i have taken it to the dealership and even paid out of own pocket a rental car for 2 hours while they fixed a recal and then they get it done mind u im already 2 hours away from home so i go pick my car back up and they call me the next day needing my car badly to fix the other recals well this time they was willing to meet me with a loaner vehical half way.. Well its been 3 weeks now havent heard from them or anything and i just got a call today sayimg my car is finally done well i get online and it dont show really were they fixed anything but supposely my sub frame had to be fixed.. I just fill something to do with sub frame is dangours and later down the road im a mom of 2 i dont need something that has sub frame problems thats scary

I RECENTLY NOTICED OUT OF NO WHERE THE DASHBOARD ON MY CAR CRACKED FOR NO REASON IT IS RIGHT BY THE FRONT PASSENGER AIRBAG. IT IS ALSO EXTREMELY STICKY . I DON'T FEEL SAFE DRIVING IT IN THIS CONDITION

Mileage: 75,000

I RECENTLY NOTICED THAT MY DASHBOARD HAS BECOME CRACKED AND VERY STICKY . I DO NOT KNOW HOW THIS HAPPENED WHEN I CONTACTED MAZDA TO GET IT FIXED I WAS TOLD THEY CAN NOT REPLACE THAT PART . I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO I FEEL STUCK I PAID A LOT OF MONEY FOR THIS CAR

Mileage: 75,000

ON JANUARY 25, 2014, I HAD MY CAR SERVICE AT A S. FLORIDA MAZDA DEALERSHIP FOR A 2013 RECALL ON THE DOOR LATCH MOUNTING SCREWS. THE RECALL STATED THAT THE SCREWS MAY BECOME LOOSE. IF ALL THREE DOOR LATCH MOUNTING SCREWS BECOME LOOSE AND FALL OUT, THE DOOR LATCH MECHANISM WILL NOT ENGAGE WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED, AND THE DOOR AJAR WARNING LIGHT WILL ILLUMINATE. CURRENTLY, I AM EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUE WITH MY DOORS AND THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT ILLUMINATING. IN ADDITION, DUE TO THIS ISSUE, MY BATTERY THAT I HAD REPLACED IN MAY 2020 DOES NOT WORK. MY CAR DID NOT START. I HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED TO THE NEAREST MAZDA DEALERSHIP. THE DEALERSHIP REPLACED THE BATTERY BUT TOLD ME THAT MY DOOR LATCH ON 2 DOORS HAD TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE MY CAR THINKS THE DOOR IS AJAR AND THIS CAUSES THE BATTERY TO DRAIN EVEN WITH THE CAR TURNED OFF. IT SOUNDS LIKE THESE ISSUES COULD BE ATTRIBUTED TO THE 2013 RECALL. FURTHERMORE, THE TECHNICIAN INFORMED ME THAT MY CAR ALARM GOES OFF WITHOUT WARNING AND THE TECHNICIAN ATTRIBUTED THIS TO THE DOOR LATCH ISSUE. SO ALL OF THE ABOVE ISSUES CAN BE TRACED BACK TO THE 2013 RECALL ON DOOR LATCHES. IT APPEARS THAT THERE IS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT ON THE DOOR LATCHES. THEREFORE, THE DEALERSHIP SHOULD MAKE THE NECESSARY REPAIRS WITHOUT CHARGE TO ME. RIGHT NOW, MY CAR HAS BEEN AT THE DEALERSHIP FOR 1 WEEK AND 2 DAYS.

I BOUGHT A USED CAR FROM A SMALL DEALERSHIP, THEY SOLD ME THE CAR WITHOUT A DASH HARNESS, ALL THE WIRING THAT IS SUPPOSED TO BE CONNECTED TO THE COMPUTER IN MY CAR IS NOT THERE, SO I CAN'T DO SMOG CHECK. THE MECHANIC COULD NOT CHECK WHY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON BECAUSE THE COMPUTER IN MY CAR WAS NOT COMMUNICATING WITH THE TOOL. SOLD ME THE CAR WITH AIRBAGS NOT WORKING. LIED ABOUT HAVING IT ALL CHECKED OUT. AND I STILL HAVEN'T RECEIVED MY TITLE, REGISTRATION, AND PLATES TO MY CAR.

Mileage: 136,000

FOR THE LAST YEAR, THE CAR ALARM IN MY 2009 MAZDA 6 HAS BEEN GOING OFF SPORADICALLY BY ITSELF AT ALL HOURS OF THE DAY WHILE PARKED IN MY APARTMENT BUILDING PARKING LOT. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT MY PASSENGER SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS, AND A FEW WEEKS LATER THE ALARM WENT OFF AGAIN AT 3:30 AM, WAKING UP ALL OF MY NEIGHBORS IN THE PROCESS. BROUGHT IT BACK TO THE DEALER AND NOW THEY SAY IT'S THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR. THERE ARE SO MANY REPORTS ON THE INTERNET OF OTHER MAZDA OWNERS HAVING THIS SAME ISSUE AND THERE IS A BULLETIN OUT THERE FOR IT. WHY HAS BEEN THIS NOT BECOME A RECALL YET?

Mileage: 152,218

THE DASH MATERIAL ABOVE THE PASSENGER AIRBAG HAS BEEN DETERIORATING AND MELTING AS IF A CHEMICAL REACTION HAS OCCURRED. THIS WINTER THE SECTION IN QUESTION HAS GENERATED SEVERAL CRACKS AND FISSURES IN THE SURFACE.

Mileage: 138,420

ENGINE SURGES WHEN I BRAKE, BUT NOT ALWAYS. USUALLY IT IS WHEN I'M GOING STRAIGHT AHEAD, HOWEVER, IT HAS DONE IT IN A TURN AND ONCE BACKING UP. THIS HAS HAPPENED AGAIN TODAY, AND AFTER I HAD THROTTLE BODY CLEANING DONE TWO WEEKS AGO.

Mileage: 156,880

THERE HAVE BEEN PROBLEMS WITH OTHER MAZDA CARS THAT GOT RECALLED DUE TO A POSSIBLE FAULTY FUEL SHUT-OFF VALVE THAT COULD ALLOW GASOLINE TO ENTER THE FUEL TANK EMISSION SYSTEM. IF ENOUGH FUEL GETS INTO THE SYSTEM, IT CAN CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL. HOWEVER, THIS RECALL DID NOT COVER MY 2009 MAZDA 6 AND I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR HAS FAILED! THE ALARM ON MY MAZDA GOES OFF AT RANDOM PERIODS OF TIME. SOMETIMES ITS ONCE A WEEK AND SOMETIMES IS 5 TIMES A DAY OR NIGHT. I HAVE REVIEWED SEVERAL INTERNET FORUMS AND IT APPEARS THAT THERE ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM BUT THEY HAVE NOT CREATED A COMPLAINT ON THIS WEBSITE. THE REMEDIES THAT THEY HAVE FOUND TO HAVE THE DEALER REPLACE A DOOR ACTUATOR THAT IS FAULTY. THIS DOOR ACTUATOR LOCKS THE DOORS AND IF WHEN IT FAILS TO PROPERLY LOCK THE DOOR IT WILL INTERMITTENTLY SOUND THE ALARM. THE ALARM IS NOT SO MUCH THE CONCERN AS MUCH AS THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. IT IF FAILS TO LOCK IT CREATES A SAFETY HAZARD FOR PEOPLE AS THEY ARE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD THE DOOR COULD ACCIDENTALLY BE OPENED. CHILDREN COULD OPEN THE DOOR AND FALL OUT OF THE CAR AS IT IS FAILING. PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS ISSUE AS IT IS A SAFETY CONCERN. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR AT LEAST THE PAST 4-5 YEARS.

Mileage: 70,000

MY MAZDA 6 STARTED OVERHEATING DURING A HEAVY TRAFFIC DAY. EVER SINCE, I NOTICED IT WOULD ONLY START OVER HEATING ONLY WHEN THE CAR IS IDLE AT A LIGHT, TRAFFIC, OR PARKED FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES AND THEN SLOWLY START CREEPING UP. IF I GIVE IT SOME RPM, THE GAUGE COMES BACK TO NORMAL READING. *ADDITIONAL INFO - HEATER ONLY WORKS WHEN RIDING - I HAVE TO ADD A BIT OF COOLANT EVERYDAY - CHANGED THERMOSTAT, FAN CONTROL MODULE AND FANS WORK WELL.

Mileage: 120,000

PASSENGER SIDE DASH BOARD IS STICKY AND SHINY. IF THE SUNLIGHT HITS ON THE SHINY SPOTS IT CREATES A GLARE THAT IS DISTRACTING, ESPECIALLY IF DRIVING. I ALSO WORRY ABOUT THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYING PROPERLY IF THE VEHICLE IS IN A ACCIDENT. CONTACTED LOCAL MAZDA DEALER AND THEY NEVER CALLED ME BACK. CONTACTED MAZDA COSTUMER SERVICE. THEY SAID THERE WAS NEVER A RECALL ON THE DASH BOARD, BUT SEVERAL WEBSITES SAY THAT THERE WAS A RECALL. REPRESENTATIVE FOR MAZDA SAID THAT AT THE TIME I TOOK MY VEHICLE TO THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP IN 2017 TO FIX OTHER RECALLS MY DASH BOARD WAS INSPECTED AND SHOWED NO ISSUES SO IT WASN'T REPLACED. SO NOW FOR MY DASH BOARD REPLACEMENT TO BE CONSIDERED I MUST TAKE MY VEHICLE TO HAVE A DIAGNOSTIC DONE AND I MUST PAY. REPRESENTATIVE ALSO SAYS THAT A REPLACEMENT WAS HIGHLY UNLIKELY.

MELTING, STICKING DASHBOARD CAUSING GLARE ON WINDSHIELD. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN ONGOING, AND IT IS ONLY WORSENING.

I BROUGHT MY 2009 MAZDA6 IN FOR THE RECALLED FRONT CROSS MEMBER CORROSION SAFETY RECALL. AFTER AN INSPECTION I WAS TOLD IT QUALIFIED FOR A REPLACEMENT. I AUTHORIZED THE WORK AND PICKED THE CAR UP A FEW DAYS LATER. WE DID NOT RECEIVE THE NORMAL MAINTENANCE SHEET. AFTER DRIVING THE CAR THE NEXT FEW DAYS THE AT (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION) LIGHT CAME ON AND TRANSMISSION STARTED TO SLIP. WE SERVICED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID WITH 3 QUARTS AND FOUND DAMAGE AND LEAK JUST ABOVE THE CROSS MEMBER RECALL REPAIR. WE RETURNED THE CAR TO THE DEALER AND INFORMED MAZDA CUSTOMER CARE. WALSER MAZDA OF BURNSVILLE SAID THE TRANSMISSION LINE HAS RUSTED AND REPAIR COSTS WOULD BE AROUND $400. I SAID THE DAMAGE TO THE LINE WAS WHEN THE RECALL REPAIR WAS DONE. THE CAR WAS DRIVEN LESS THAN 250 MILES SINCE THE REPAIR AND LEAKED OUT 3 QUARTS OF FLUID. I BELIEVE THE SHARP EDGE OF THE CROSS MEMBER DAMAGED THE TRANSMISSION LINE WHEN THE RECALL REPAIR WAS DONE. DAMAGE SHOULD BE THE COST OF THE DEALER. DOCUMENT POSSIBLE DAMAGE WHEN THIS RECALL IS PREFORMED.

WHEN I GOT THE VEHICLE I NOTICED THE DASHBOARD WAS REALLY STICKY AND I DIDN'T KNOW HOW BUT THEN I MET SOMEONE WITH THE SAME VEHICLE WITH THE SAME ISSUE. MY BACK SEAT IS VERY LOOSE AND MAKES NOISES WHEN DRIVING

AS WELL AS THE TAKATA RECALL, THE PASSENGER SIDE OF MY VEHICLE IS LITERALLY MELTING OFF. THE AIRBAG COVER IS STICKY TO THE TOUCH AND WHO KNOWS IF IT IS MELTED INTO PLACE. I'VE SEEN MANY OTHER COMPLAINTS AND I'VE SEEN THAT MAZDA HAS TRIED TO CHARGE PEOPLE FOR LABOR WHICH IS ABSURD.

DRIVING TO WORK ON HIGHWAY 44 WHEN I NOTICED THE HANDLING WAS REALLY BAD. HAD TO COME TO A QUICK STOP AND APPLIED BRAKE PRESSURE WHEN RHW XAR SUDDENLY SWERVES TO THE RIGHT. UPON GETTING THE CAR UNDER CONTROL I HAD TO RUN THW STERRING WHEEL 3/4 TO THE LEFT TO KEEP THE CAR GOING STRAIGHT. MADE IT TO WORK BY DRIVING SLOW AND CONITINUING STEERING LEFT. CALLED A TOW TRUCK TO HAVE IT TOWED TO A SHOP. MY MECHANIC REPLACED A WHEEL BEARING AND TOOK IT FOR A DRIVE. HE LOST COMPLETE CONTROL OF THW CAR TWICE; TOOK IT BACK TO THE SHOP AND DISCOVERED THE SUBFRAME COMPLETELY RUSTED OUT AND WAS THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM

Mileage: 125,000

I WAS PULLED INTO A PARKING LOT GOING ABOUT 5 MPH HIT A POTHOLE AND I LOST CONTROL

Mileage: 135,000

SUBFRAME HAS SEVERE CORROSION, ROTTED OUT. ONLY ONE BOLT HOLDING THE RACK AND PINION. HARD TO KEEP THE CAR IN THE ROAD. STEERS TO ONE SIDE. MAKE POPPING NOISES WHEN TURNING CERTAIN DIRECTIONS. STEERING WHEEL SHAKES WHEN DRIVING ON FREEWAY WHEN REACHING SPEED OF 40-50.

Mileage: 161,000

MY SON WAS DRIVING MY CAR TO GET FOOD WHEN THE CAR LOST CONTROL OF STEERING AND VEERED RIGHT TOWARDS THE CURB. HIS STEERING WAS STRAIGHT BUT CAR WAS DIFFICULT TO CONTROL. THANKFULLY HE WAS ONLY GOING 25 MPH. WE TOOK IT TO AUTO SHOP AND WAS TOLD ENGINE CRADLE/SUBFRAME HAD RUSTED THROUGHOUT. VERY EXPENSIVE REPAIR. WE ALSO OWN A SECOND 09 MAZDA 6 THAT WE NOW WORRY ABOUT AND WILL GET LOOKED AT.

Mileage: 100,000

THIS PAST WEEK, WHILE DRIVING MY VEHICLE TO AND FROM WORK ON A PUBLIC ROADWAY, THE STEERING WHEEL WAS OFF-CENTER AND THE VEHICLE STARTED TO SHIFT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WHILE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION WHILE DRIVING STRAIGHT. I TOOK IT TO AN AUTO REPAIR SHOP AND THEY TOLD ME THE SUB FRAME IS COMPLETELY SPLIT IN HALF AND ALL CORRODED. THE VEHICLE IS UNDRIVEABLE RIGHT NOW. IT'S GOING TO BE VERY EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR.

Mileage: 117,000

MAZDA DEALER WAS PERFORMING A COUPLE OF RECALLS. THEY FOUND THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS SEVERELY RUSTED. SAID THAT IT NEEDED REPLACED BEFORE IT FAILED. SAID THAT ENGINE COULD DROP OUT OR PROBLEMS WITH STEERING IF THE SUBFRAME FAILED. 9 YEAR OLD CAR WITH 100,000 MILES AND NO OTHER RUST PROBLEMS IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE BECAUSE OF PROBLEM WITH THE SUBFRAME. I CONTACTED MAZDA BUT HAVE NOT HEARD BACK FROM THEM.

Mileage: 113,000

SUBFRAME RUST THE FRONT PASSENGER SUBFRAME IS SEVERELY RUSTED TO THE POINT THAT TMY LOCAL MAZDA DEALER (ALDEN MAZDA IN FAIRHAVEN, MA) DIDNT WANT TO PERFORM ROUTINE MAINTENANCE DUE TO THEIR CONCERNS OVER THIS VERY SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. THEY TOLD ME THAT THE CAR IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE AT THIS POINT. I DRIVE APPROXIMATELY 150 TO 200 MILES ON MOST DAYS AND I'M VERY CONCERNED FOR MY SAFETY. I PURCHASED THE CAR ON FEBRUARY OF 2018 WITH ONLY 68,000 MILES ON IT. AS OF JULY 30TH 2018 IT'S AT APPROXIMATELY 79,000 MILES.

Mileage: 79,000

BOUGHT 2009 MAZDA 6 BRAND NEW. CAR HAS 140,000 MILES WELL MAINTAINED. I HAD TO SLAM ON MY BRAKES TO AVOID A COLLISION WITH A TRUCK PULLING A TRAILER. THE TRUCK WAS AT A STOP SIGN FACING WEST, I HAD RIGHT OF WAY DRIVING NORTH, TRUCK DRIVER PULLED OUT IN FRONT OF ME TURNING LEFT TO GO SOUTH. MY SPEED APROX.40MPH TO DEAD STOP.. MY VEHICLE NEVER LEFT THE ROAD OR NO IMPACT WITH OTHER VEHICLE. AS I STARTED TO DRIVE STRAIGHT, I HAD TO KEEP MY STEERING 20-30 DEGREES TO LEFT BECAUSE MY CAR PULLED HARD TO THE RIGHT. I PULLED OVER TO CHECK FOR FLAT TIRE. THAT WAS NOT THE ISSUE. I WAS ABLE TO TURN AROUND AND PROCEED TO A MAZDA DEALER APROX 2 MILES SOUTH . I LEFT THE CAR THERE FOR MAZDA TO INSPECT. THE SERVICE ADVISOR CALLED ME AND TOLD ME THE FRONT SUB FRAME HAD SPLIT/CRACKED DUE TO RUST CORROSION--"THATS NORTHEAST OHIO FOR YOU". REPAIR ESTIMATE $2000-$2500. REPAIRS ARE NOT DONE. DEALERSHIP HAS ALLOWED TO LEAVE THE VEHICLE IN THE PARKING LOT FOR A SHORT TIME. MY CAR CAN NOT BE DRIVEN. THE DEALERSHIP OFFERED TO WORK WITH ME TO "PURCHASE ANOTHER VEHICLE " .

Mileage: 141,000

THE DASHBOARD IN MY CAR IS MELTING AND IS STICKY AND SHINNY. THIS IS IMPOSSIBLE TO CLEAN AND IF TOUCHED IT RESULTS IN BLACK PLASTIC FRAGMENTS COMING OFF. THE DASHBOARD REMAINS LIKE THIS NO MATTER THE WEATHER AND EVEN IF IT IS NO LONGER HOT INSIDE OR OUTSIDE THE CAR. THE MOST IMPACTED AREA IS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE DASHBOARD. THIS ISSUE APPEARS TO BE GETTING WORSE THIS SUMMER.

THE FRONT SUBFRAME BROKE DUE TO BEING ROTTED THROUGH. THIS HAPPENED WHILE I WAS DRIVING

Mileage: 130,000

TOOK MY CAR TO A REPAIR SHOP TO INVESTIGATE A RATTLING NOISE COMING FROM MY CAR. THE RATTLING WAS CAUSED BY THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER HEAT SHIELD BEING LOOSE. WHILE THE CAR WAS BEING LOOKED AT THE MECHANIC NOTICED THAT THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE SUB FRAME WAS RUSTING AWAY. THIS TRANSPIRED JANUARY 18, 2018. THE REPAIR SHOP HAS BEEN TRYING TO GET A REPLACEMENT PART WITHOUT SUCCESS. I AM NOW BEING TOLD THAT THE EARLIEST THEY COULD GET ONE IS THE MIDDLE OF MAY. MY INSPECTION EXPIRED THE END OF MARCH. I FIND IT VERY DIFFICULT TO BELIEVE THAT MAZDA DOESN'T HAVE THIS PART AVAILABLE ANYWHERE. I FORTUNATELY HAVE NOT HAD AN ACCIDENT WHILE DRIVING THIS CAR.

Mileage: 81,000

SIDE MIRRORS ARE DISCOLORING CAUSING VIEWING PROBLEMS

I AM HAVING TROUBLE WITH MY ALIGNMENT GOING OUT HAD IT DONE AND A DAY LATER WENT BACK OUT. APON REVIEW IT TURN OUT THE SUB FRAME BY THE MOTOR CRADLE IS DISINTEGRATED CAUSING THE PROBLEMS WITH STEERING AND ALIGNMENT.

Mileage: 122,000

WHILE DRIVING AT SPEEDS ABOVE 30 THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT FLICKERS AND THE DOME LIGHT GOES ON AND OFF. I HAVE ALREADY HAD THE DOOR LATCH RECALLS FIXED ON MY CAR. IT IS FIGHTEN TO THINK THE DOOR MAY FLY OPEN

Mileage: 60,000

OUR DASH IS MELTING AND IS PUTTING A GLARE ON THE FRONT WINDOW. IT HAS A AWFUL SMELL AND IS VERY STICKY. WE HAVE CALLED THE MAZDA COMPANY AND WE WERE TOLD THAT WE WILL HAVE TO PURCHASE A NEW DASH OUR SELF. THERE IS OTHER COMPLAINTS ONLINE FROM OTHERS WHO ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE DASH IN THERE MAZDA

THE FRONT CRADLE ASSEMBLY WAS RUSTED THROUGH AND BROKE WHILE I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY. MY MECHANIC SAID HE HAD NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE IT ON A CAR THIS NEW AND IT COULD HAVE CAUSED A VERY SERIOUS ACCIDENT. A MECHANIC AT THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I BOUGHT THE CAR SAID HE HAS NEVER HAD A PROBLEM LIKE THIS WITH A MAZDA 6.

Mileage: 44,000

THE DASHBOARD IS STICKY ON THE LEFT SIDE .JUST KEEP BIGGER AND BIGGER.

DASHBOARD IS MELTING AND IT CREATES A GLARE THAT REFLECTS ON THE WINDSHIELD MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO SEE AHEAD, ESPECIALLY ON SUNNY DAYS OR AT NIGHT. THOUGHT IT WAS AN ISOLATED CASE UNTIL DECIDED TO DO SOME RESEARCH ON IT, FINDING OUT IT IS HAPPENING TO PLENTY OF OTHER CONSUMERS.

I FIRST NOTICED MY DASH IN MY CAR TODAY. THE DASH IN MY CAR APPEARS TO BE MELTING. IT IS STICKY, AND BEGINNING TO HAVE A SHINE TO IT. THIS AREA IS LOCATED OVER THE AIRBAG AREA OF THE DASH. I AM NOT SURE WHAT CAN BE DONE TO FIX THIS PROBLEM.

Mileage: 78,000

I HAVE NOTICED THAT MY DASHBOARD IS MELTING AND IS VERY GOOEY AND STICKY. IT IS NOW CREATING A VERY HAZARDOUS GLARE ON MY WINDSHIELD. THIS IS ONLY ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. IT IS ALSO EMITTING A VERY UNPLEASANT ODOR THAT I FEEL COULD BE TOXIC.I REALLY NEED TO KNOW WHAT CAN BE DONE BY THE MANUFACTURER TO FIX THIS PROBLEM BEFORE IT GETS WORSE OR MAY CAUSE SOMEONE DRIVING THIS VEHICLE TO CAUSE AN ACCIDENT DUE TO THE GLARE THAT IS NOW INTERFERING AND WE CANNOT GET A CLEAR VIEW OF WHAT'S IN FRONT OF US.

THE DASHBOARD STARTED TO MELT A FEW MONTHS AGO, AROUND MAY. NOW THE DASHBOARD IS PERMANENTLY STICKY AND THERE IS A SMELL ARISING. IN ADDITION, DASHBOARD CREATES A GLARE ON THE WINDSHIELD WHICH AFFECTS THE VISIBILITY WHILE DRIVING. IF YOU PLACE SOMETHING ON IT, THERE IS A BLACK RESIDUE THAT COMES OFF ALONG WITH IT. THE MELTED DASHBOARD IS SHINY AND STICKY.

MY DASHBOARD IS STICKY AND MELTING. THIS IS VERY BAD !!!!!! AND VERY CONCERN ABOUT THE AIR BAG.

URGENT NHTSA:ON 6/21/15 I FILED A COMPLAINT (SEEN HEREIN) NHTSA ID #10726451 REAGARDING MY MAZDA M6 2009 MELTING DASH AND MY DISAPPOINTMENT WITH MAZDA CORP USA. I AM GUILTY OF EXPRESSING IMPATIENCE!!! MAZDA CORP HAS PROVIDED ME WITH UNPRECEDENTED COURTESY AND STATED THEY WILL REPAIR THIS FAULTY DASH! I HAVE BEEN A MAZDA OWNER FOR 30 YEARS AND WILL CONTINUE TO GIVE THE AUTOMAKER MY BUSINESS. OTHER THAN THE DASH ISSUE I HAVE ONLY HAD MINOR ISSUES WITH ALL CATEGORIES OF MY MAZDA AUTO'S! NHTSA P L E A S E.....DELETE THE EARLIER STEMENT HEREIN NHTSA ID # 10726451 6/21/2015. SATISFIED MAZDA CUSTOMER!

Mileage: 39,018

AFTER A FEW YEARS OF OWNING THE VEHICLE THE DASHBOARD BECAME VERY STICKY. IN MAY OF 2015 THE DASHBOARD OVER THE PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG HAS BEGUN MELTING. THERE IS A SPOT ABOUT 2" IN DIAMETER THAT IS MELTED. IN ADDITION THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE FRONT WINDSHIELD AND DASH CONTINUES TO COME UNDONE AND START COMING OFF. I HAVE REPLACED THIS FOAM TAPE ABOUT 3 YEARS AGO AT A MAZDA DEALERSHIP AND IT HAS COME UNDONE AGAIN. I CURRENTLY LIVE IN ALABAMA AND I ALWAYS USE A SUNSCREEN.

Mileage: 60,000

MY DASHBOARD IS "MELTING". I HAVE TRIED USING A SUN PROTECTOR BETWEEN THE DASH AND WINDOW BUT THE PROTECTOR IS STICKING TO AND PEELING OFF OF THE DASH. IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO? THE WARRANTY HAS PASSED BUT I BELIEVE THERE IS A LAWSUIT AGAINST MAZDA FOR THIS EXACT PROBLEM.

I WAS CLEANING MY CAR AND FOUND THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE DASHBOARD WAS SORT OF MELTING. LINT FROM MY TOWEL WAS STICKING TO IT. I THOUGHT IT MIGHT SOMEHOW HAVE SOMETHING ON IT, SO I KEPT SCRUBBING, AND THE PROBLEM GOT WORSE. I TRIED CLEANING IT ON A CLOUDY, COOL DAY, BUT THE LINT WAS STILL STUCK, NOT COMING OFF!

....TOYOTA AND OTHER COMPANIES HAVE TAKEN ETHICAL ACTION TO RECOGNIZE THIS FACTORY/PRODUCT DEFECT AND ARE RESPONDING PROFESSIONALLY TO THEIR CUSTOMERS. MAZDA CONTINUES TO IGNORE THE COMPLAINTS AND HAS TAKEN NO RECALL,ETC ACTION. WHY HASN'T THE NHTSA EXPLOITED MAZDA'S GREED AND LACK OF CUSTOMER SUPPORT VIA THE NEWS AND INTERNET? MAZDA SPENDS MILLIONS ON ADVERTISING..........BUT DOESN'T WON'T TO ADDRESS THIS SAFETY ISSUE! JF...............A MAZDA CUSTOMER OF 30 YEARS THAT IS VERY DISAPPOINTED IN MAZDA!

Mileage: 39,018

THE PANIC ALARM HAS BEEN GOING OFF EVERY WEEK AT LEAST ONCE OR TWICE. THIS HAPPENS A LOT IN THE EVENINGS BETWEEN 8PM AND 11PM. IT'LL GO OFF BY ITSELF FOR NO REASON AT ALL. THIS HAPPENED ANOTHER TIME LAST YEAR, BUT ONLY ONCE. NOW, IT'S HAPPENING EVERY WEEK AND IT'S PRETTY ANNOYING. I'VE READ ON OTHER FORUMS WHERE PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. I'M AFRAID THIS IS GOING TO KILL MY BATTERY SOON.

Mileage: 91,000

WHEN AC OR HEAT WAS ON AT ANY SPEED, IT WOULD RUN FOR A FEW MINS. THEN STOP BLOWING OUT AIR BEFORE SLOWLY DYING OUT. IT WOULD MAKE NOISE LIKE IT WAS TRYING TO WORK AGAIN, BUT THEN WOULDN'T. TOOK IT TO MAZDA DEALERSHIP. THEY DID "TEST ON AC/HVAC SYSTEM & FOUND FAULTY CONTROL HEAD DUE TO ELECTRICAL FAILURE." THEY INSTALLED A HEATER CONTROL & THE PROBLEM WAS FIXED FOR A WHILE. 3 MONTHS LATER SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN. THIS TIME I WAS TOLD THE "HVAC BLOWER MOTOR WAS TRIPPING OUT ON INTERNAL THERMAL OVERLOAD" SO THEY REPLACED THE HVAC BLOWER MOTOR. WHILE THAT WAS GETTING FIXED, I ALSO HAD THEM LOOK INTO ANOTHER PROBLEM I WAS HAVING. THE TCS/DSC LIGHT WOULD STAY LIT FOR 10-15 MINS AFTER I STARTED MY CAR AND SOMETIMES WOULD JUST RANDOMLY COME ON WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALERSHIP DID TEST & FOUND "CODE C0034 - RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL RATE OUT OF RANGE & C0027, C0048 - RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT OPEN, TECH MONITORED SENSOR & FOUND INTERNAL SENSOR FAILURE. CORRECTED BY ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM. INSTALLED GS3L-43-70X: RIGHT FRONT ABS SENSOR."

Mileage: 50,542

4/23/12 - TOOK CAR TO DEALERSHIP FOR AIRBAG LIGHT THAT WOULD CONTINUOUSLY FLASH ON DASHBOARD WHENEVER CAR WAS ON. THEIR FINDINGS: "PULLED CODE B1127 - CLEANED & TIGHTENED TERMINALS IN CONNECTOR UNDER SEAT TO CORRECT RESISTANCE. TEST DROVE OK. CONNECTOR 0810-15." COST ME $92.00 TO REPAIR. 3/12/14, (94,425 MILES) TOOK CAR BACK TO DEALERSHIP AFTER EXPERIENCING SAME PROBLEM WITH FLASHING AIRBAG LIGHT FOR SEVERAL MONTHS PRIOR. THEIR DESCRIPTION OF SERVICE: "TECHNICIAN PERFORMED DIAGNOSTICS USING MAZDA SCAN TOOL. FOUND CODE B1127 - PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG MODULE HIGH RESISTANCE. CHECKED FOR TSB S, FOUND TSB 08-001/09 - COATING ON AIRBAG TERMINALS ALLOWING OXIDATION-- REPLACE MODULE. INSTALLED GS3L-57-KA0B: MODULE (R) A/B SIDE, REPLACED MODULE PER TSBP 08-001/09. CLEARED CODE FROM PCM." THIS TIME IT COST ME $453.87!!!! I CAN'T BELIEVE THERE HASN'T BEEN A RECALL ON THIS YET!!! ALSO IN JAN. 2015, (92,000 MILES) I WALKED OUT TO MY CAR ONE DAY, DURING THE WINTER, TO FIND MY PASSENGER SIDE DASHBOARD WITH A HUGE CRACK IN IT! IT IS ALSO VERY STICKY FEELING. I HAVEN'T EVEN LOOKED INTO HOW MUCH IT'S GOING TO COST TO REPAIR THIS. AFTER DOING SOME MORE RESEARCH I FOUND OUT THAT ALLOT OF PEOPLE ARE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THEIR DASHBOARD AND I THINK MAZDA NEEDS TO GET INVOLVED AND FIX THIS.

Mileage: 80,712

THE DASHBOARD OF THE PASSENGER SIDE HAS STARTED TO MELT. WHEN I PUT MY HAND ON IT STICK AND MY HAND IS BLACK.

DASH OF VEHICLE ON THE PASSENGER IS BEGINNING TO MELT. IN MELTING, THE DASH NOW HAS A GLOSS APPEARANCE THAT, IN THE SUN LIGHT, CREATES A GLARE WHILE DRIVING.

Mileage: 71,000

THE DASHBOARD TO MY 2009 MAZDA 6 IS MELTING. I TRIED GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE BUT THEY SAID THERE WASN'T ANYTHING THEY COULD DO BECAUSE MY VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY. THEY SUGGESTED I CONTACT MAZDA WHICH I DID TO FILE A REPORT.