2010 MAZDA MAZDA6 Steering Problems

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently veered to the left. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle became difficult to steer. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed and determined that the engine cradle had failed and was severely rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was contacted; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 114,000.

Mileage: 114,000

While im driving the steering is shifting to the right and seems lower on right side. My tires daily need to have air in them because of the uneven weight. While I drive and let go of the gas the car pulls back like an E brake could be stuck not sure though. No accidents at all but it seems like the vehicle is getting weaker and weaker with the uneven weight going down on the tires and steering seems like it's going to crash onto the right without being able to control it.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the steering wheel was pulling without warning. There was rust on the frame. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the contact was informed that the vehicle was not safe to drive. The local dealer was contacted. The vehicle was diagnosed and repaired. Mechanic noted that Mazda’s recall repair only served to keep the car from splitting apart, but it in no way resolved the control arm issue. As a result my car was unexpectedly swerving all over the road and was difficult to control. It was with the control arm still somewhat attached, though extremely loose. The contact stated that the vehicle was previously repaired under NHTSA Campaign number 18V631000 (Suspension, structure). The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 151,000. Consumer stated there is significant rust on on side, where control arm attaches to steering. Vehicle has been repaired.

Mileage: 151,000

The wheels were turning in and the steering was really hard to keep straight had to turn the steering wheel almost half around car make Loud screaming noises.tires went flat ..i have 6 grandkids lucky I wasn't going fast the car could of flipped .subframe broke in half on passenger side rusted right out.i got this car from right way dealership in Saginaw Michigan in march of 2019 they never told me or never contacted me that there was a recall for the subframe breaking.could of killed someone!!!!

WHILE MAKING A RIGHT TURN, I HIT THE BRAKES TO AVOID COLLIDING WITH SOMEONE WHO PULLED IN FRONT OF ME AND THE PASSENGER'S SIDE FRONT WHEEL LOCKED INTO A POSITION TURNED TO THE RIGHT. I HAD IT TOWED TO A REPAIR SHOP, WHERE I WAS INFORMED THAT THE CONTROL ARM HAD SEPARATED FROM THE FRAME DUE TO RUST. IT SEEMS THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE IN 2018 FOR CERTAIN STATES, AND WHILE I DO NOT CURRENTLY RESIDE IN ONE OF THE AFFECTED STATES, I USED TO AND MY CAR DID FOR MOST OF ITS LIFE.

Mileage: 98,000

WHEN MANEUVERING TO OR FROM PARKING WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED AND PUTS ANY PRESSURE ON THE STEERING COMPONENTS THE RIGHT FRONT OF THE CAR MAKES A VERY LOUD CLUNKING AND POPPING AND MAKES BOTH STEERING AND MOVING DIFFICULT. IT HAS GOTTEN PROGRESSIVELY WORSE OVER THE LAST 2 MONTHS SO I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND OUT ABOUT THE POSSIBLE CORROSION ISSUE OF THE FRONT RIGHT SUBFRAME AND RECALL "INSPECTION". I WILL CALL MY LOCAL DEALER AND SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT AS IT SEEMS THIS CAR IS UNDER AN OPEN RECALL AND WAS NEVER LOOKED AT. I JUST BOUGHT IT AS A USED CAR IN MID OCTOBER AND MOSTLY DRIVE MY TRUCK ALL WINTER SO IT TOOK AWHILE FOR THIS TO SURFACE.

Mileage: 100,000

I HAVE THE OPEN AND DANGEROUS RECALL ( # 2818I ) STILL PENDING AT THIS TIME. IT WAS HARD ENOUGH JUST TO GET THE DEALERSHIP, IN ORDER TO INSPECT THE CAR FOR CORROSION IN THE CONCERNING AREAS. I DON'T FEEL THAT THE CAR IS SAFE TO DRIVE AT THIS TIME AND PREFER THAT NO ONE RIDES WITH ME WHEN DRIVING IT, JUST FOR THE SAFETY OF OTHERS. I'M VERY CONCERNED THAT THIS FIX WILL NOT COME SOON ENOUGH AND THE PROBLEM KEEP MESSING UP MY CARS ALIGNMENT. CAUSING ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS DRIVING IT, ESPECIALLY AT HIGH SPEEDS. THAT'S WHEN A WHEEL WOBBLE STARTS TO HAPPEN IN THE AFFECTED AREAS OF THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR. PLEASE HELP!

Mileage: 128,592

LETTER FROM CONSUMER RE: FAIR AND EQUITABLE REIMBURSEMENT CUSTOMER TREATMENT ON 2010 MAZDA 6 RECALL REPAIR (DEFECT) NOT TOTALLY PAID FOR BY MAZDA WARRANTY DEPARTMENT. *AS *TR

MAZDA INCOMPLETE RECALL 28181; NHTSA RECALL 18V-631; I HAD MY VEHICLE INSPECTED AS REQUIRED AND WAS TOLD DUE TO RUST/CORROSION/PERFORATIONS THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. INFORMED NO PARTS AVAILABLE AND MAZDA HAS GIVEN NO INFO ON WHEN PARTS MAY BE AVAILABLE; DEALERS HAVE NO INFO AT ALL ON TIMING FOR REPAIRS; CANNOT GET THRU TO MAZDA FOR MORE INFO AND MAZDA DOES NOT EVEN LIST THIS ON THEIR SITE AS A RECALL; THIS IS A DANGEROUS CONDITION AND AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR

Mileage: 87,000

WHILE APPLYING THE BRAKES AT APPROXIMATELY 30MPH, THERE WAS SHARP JOLT, AND THE STEERING WHEEL JERKED ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT. THE LOW-TRACTION INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR WAS NOT ABLE TO BE SAFELY STEERED. UPON VISUAL INSPECTION, THE FRONT RIGHT TIRE WAS TURNED OUTWARD, WHILE THE FRONT LEFT REMAINED STRAIGHT. A MECHANIC CONFIRMED THAT THE ISSUE WAS CAUSED BY A FULLY CORRODED SUB-FRAME WHICH HAD CRACKED IN HALF.

Mileage: 100,000

THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND THE SUB FRAME HAS COMPLETELY RUSTED OUT, DEEMING THE CAR UNFIT TO DRIVE. THIS WAS ONLY CAUGHT AS I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR ESTIMATE ON BRAKES. I HAVE 2 YOUNG CHILDREN WHO RIDE IN THIS CAR DAILY, SO LUCKILY NO ACCIDENT. I'VE NOTICED SEVERAL COMPLAINTS REGARDING THIS ON THE 2009 AND 2010 MODELS. ALTHOUGH I HAVEN'T BEEN IN ACCIDENT (YET), I'M NOW FORCED TO PAY $2000 IN REPAIRS, OR JUST REPLACE THE VEHICLE.

Mileage: 147,000

MY SON WAS DRIVING THE CAR APPROXIMATELY 40MPH ON A STATE ROUTE IN A RURAL AREA AND EXPERIENCED A SUDDEN LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL AND SHARP PULL TO THE RIGHT WHEN HE WAS TRYING TO BRAKE. THIS NEARLY CAUSED HIM TO HIT A TRUCK. WHEN HE REGAINED CONTROL HE NOTICED THE STEERING WHEEL WAS NOT ALIGNED WHILE GOING STRAIGHT AND THE CAR CONTINUED TO PULL TO THE RIGHT. WHEN HE MANAGED TO MAKE IT HOME WE JACKED IT UP AND REMOVED THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. I NOTICED THAT THE CROSS MEMBER ON THE RIGHT SIDE WAS COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH. THIS WAS THE ONLY NOTICIBLY LARGE AREA OF RUST ON THE CAR. THE CAR IS NOW UNDRIVEABLE.

Mileage: 109,600

WHEN DRIVING HOME FROM THE GYM, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY BECAME DIFFICULT TO CONTROL AND THERE WAS AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF PLAY IN THE STEERING WHEEL. AFTER INSPECTING, MY HUSBAND BELIEVES THE CAUSE IS DUE TO FRAME CORROSION AT THE STEERING RACK MOUNT WHICH APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN REPORTED BY OTHER 2009 2010 MAZDA 6 OWNERS..

Mileage: 69,000

AFTER EXITING THE HIGHWAY APPLIED TH BRAKES AND STEERING WHEEL WENT TO 12:00 AND 6:00 WHILE THE CAR KEPT GOING STRAIGHT .APPLY THE GAS AND WHEEI GOES BACK TO NORMAL .HIT THE BRAKES AND REPEAT THE CYCLE AGAIN ..TOOK TO DEALERSHIP TO FIND OUT RT. FRONT SUBFRAME IS RUSTED THRU .. CAR IS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AND IS PARKED AT MONTROSE MAZDA IN KENT OHIO .NEW FRAME AND LABOR IS 2,000.00 AND PARTS ARE BACKORDERED TELLING ME OTHERS HAVE TO BE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES .. WHO ORDERS A NEW FRAME FOR THEIR CAR ? CAR WAS JUST AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND THEN LOST COMPLERE CONTROL OF CAR .GLAD NO ONE WAS HURT

Mileage: 165,000

WHILE DRIVING STRAIGHT WHEEL IS AT 12:00 AND 6:00 AND CAR IS GOING STRAIGHT ..FOUND AT DEALERSHIP THAT RT.FRONT SUB-FRAME RUSTED THRU ..CAR IS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AND NEW FRAMES ARE BACKORDERED EVEN JUNKYARDS ARE OUT ..HAD TO RENT AND BUY A NEW CAR

Mileage: 165,000

ON SEPTEMBER 12, 2018 I TOOK MY 2010 MAZDA 6I TO A LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP TO GET PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE DONE ON THE VEHICLE, REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT. WHEN THE MAZDA TECH STARTED THE JOB, HE DISCOVERED THAT THE ENTIRE FRONT SUB-FRAME THAT HOLDS THE FRONT END SUSPENSION, STEERING COMPONENTS, MOTOR AND TRANSMISSION WAS RUSTED AND ROTTED OUT WITH SEVERAL HOLES AND FLAKING METAL. THE TECH WAS UNABLE TO PERFORM THE JOB AS HE STATED HE COULD NOT REMOVE THE SUB-FRAME AND KEEP IT IN TACT. THE TECH REPORTED THAT THIS CREATED A HAZARDOUS AND UNSAFE CONDITION AND THAT UNTIL REPAIRED WITH A NEW OR OTHER-WISE IN-TACT SUB-FRAME THE CAR WOULD BE UNSAFE TO DRIVE. UPON CHECKING ON-LINE I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS QUICKLY BECOMING A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE MAZDA 6 OF THIS MODEL YEAR (2009 TO 2019). THE SUB-FRAME SHOULD NOT BE THAT ROTTED OUT IN A 2010 VEHICLE WITH 101921 MILES ON IT AND NO RUST ON THE BODY.

Mileage: 101,921

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE STEERING WHEEL STARTED TO PULL TO THE RIGHT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DETERMINED THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE SUBFRAME WAS SEVERELY CORRODED AND FLAKY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200,00. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

Mileage: 200,000

CORROSION RELATED STEERING ISSUES. THE FRAME OF THE CAR HAS RUSTED OUT WHERE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM ON THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE CONNECTS TO THE FRAME. WHILE COMING TO A QUICK STOP THE ABS KICKED IN AND THE CAR PULLED TO THE RIGHT WITH A POPPING SOUND. THE CAR WOULD RANDOMLY PULL TO ONE SIDE WHEN DRIVING RESUMED. TOOK THE CAR IN FOR NEW BRAKES AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE FRAME HAS RUSTED OUT. FINDING OTHER LIKE CONCERNS I TOOK THE CAR TO MAZDA WITH NO COMMUNICATION REGARDING THE STATUS OF MY VEHICLE. THE CAR IS 8 YEARS OLD AND SHOULD NOT HAVE FRAME RUST TO THE POINT OF FAILURE.

Mileage: 175,000

AS I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE MY STEERING WHEEL ROTATED CLOCKWISE AND WAS AT AN ANGLE AND MY CAR CONTINUED TO GO STRAIGHT DOWN THE ROAD. IT FELT AS IF I WERE DRIVING ON ICE AND WAS VERY HARD TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE. WHILE MAKING A TURN MY FRONT TIRES BEGAN TO SQUEAL. IT WAS VERY HARD TO TURN. WHEN BRAKING THE CAR SHOOK DRAMATICALLY. I TOOK IT TO A LOCAL AUTO MECHANIC BECAUSE I THOUGHT IT WAS POSSIBLY SOMETHING WITH THE STEERING. THE MECHANIC CALLED BACK AND WAS SHOCKED TO TELL ME THE SUB FRAME WAS COMPLETELY ROTTEN AND HAD BROKEN. IT WAS HARD FOR HIM TO BELIEVE THAT A CAR THAT WAS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD WOULD HAVE THAT MUCH CORROSION ON THE FRAME. I PURCHASED THE CAR BRAND NEW AND HAVE HAD THE CAR FOR THE ENTIRE 8 YEARS WITH NO ACCIDENTS AT ALL.

Mileage: 162,000

I BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE STEERING, ESPECIALLY WHEN TURNING AT INTERSECTIONS, IT MADE SOME BANG/BUMP NOISES, AND FELT LIKE THE FRONT WHEELS WEREN'T TURNING UNLESS I REALLY CRANKED THE STEERING WHEEL. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER FOR AN EVALUATION, AND THEY PROMPTLY PULLED IT OFF THE ROAD, TELLING ME IT WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. TURNS OUT THE FRONT SUBFRAME ON THE PASSENGER SIDE HAD RUSTED OUT SO BADLY THAT IT WAS ALMOST SPLIT INTO TWO PIECES, AND I COULD LITERALLY POKE HOLES THROUGH THE RUSTED AREAS, AFFECTING THE OPERATION OF BOTH THE STEERING AND SUSPENSION. IF THE SUBFRAME HAD INDEED SPLIT, ACCORDING TO THE MECHANIC, THE STEERING WOULD'VE FAILED AND I COULD'VE LOST THE RIGHT FRONT WHEEL.

Mileage: 114,813

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK, WHEN I NOTICED THAT MY STEERING WAS NOT WORKING RIGHT. EVERY TIME I HIT A BUMP IN THE ROAD IT BECAME HARD TO CONTROL. TO STAY STRAIGHT, MY STEERING WHEEL HAD TO BE TURN ALMOST COMPLETELY LEFT. I FIGURED I WAS JUST BADLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT. I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP TO GET MY ALIGNMENT DONE, AND THEY TOLD ME THE SUB FRAME WAS ROTTED OUT. THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND WELL MAINTAINED. HE WAS NOT ABLE TO EXPLAIN WHY IT WAS ROTTED OUT, BUT THE REST OF THE UNDERNEATH LOOKED GOOD.

Mileage: 80,000

AT TAKE OFFS, MY WHEELS SPIN LIKE THERE IS NO TRACTION AND I FEEL LIKE I HAVE NO CONTROL OVER MY CAR. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING, I'VE HAD TO EXAGGERATE THE TURNING OF MY STEERING WHEEL TO CHANGE LANES, WHILE PARKED AND PULLING OUT OF A PARKING SPOT, WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING BROKE(CRACKING). THIS ALSO BRINGS UP THE BRAKES ISSUE. I ALMOST T-BONED SOMEONE THAT RAN A RED LIGHT AND STOPPED IN THE INTERSECTION. I HAD TIME TO STOP BUT MY BRAKES DIDN'T ALLOW TRACTION FOR MY TIRES TO STOP AND I WAS ABLE TO TURN MY STEERING WHEEL ENOUGH TO SWERVE TOWARB THE BACK OF HER TRUCK AND MISS HER.

Mileage: 89,600

WHILE DRIVING ON TOWN ROADS AND AROUND A TRAFFIC CIRCLE A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD FROM THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. I ATTEMPTED TO PULL INTO A NEARBY GAS STATION BUT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STEER TO THE LEFT ENOUGH TO ENTER THE PARKING LOT. I MANAGED TO PULL INTO ANOTHER LOT A SHORT DISTANCE DOWN THE STREET ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE. I INSPECTED THE UNDER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND DISCOVERED THE FRONT SUB-FRAME HAD RUSTED THROUGH TO THE POINT OF FAILURE. THIS FAILURE ALLOWED THE COMPLETE FRONT LEFT WHEEL/SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY TO MOVE ABOUT FREELY UNDER THE CAR.

Mileage: 87,000

HEARD A KNOCK WHILE DRIVING (AS THOUGH HITTING POTHOLE). NEXT DAY STEERING COLUMN FELT LOOSE, BREAKS SEEMED WORN AND SOUND ON SHARP TURNS. LATER THAT DAY WHILE DRIVING IN CITY, WENT OVER A NORMAL DIP IN THE ROAD AND HEARD A CRACK/LOUDER KNOCK. WHEEL TURNED TO THE LEFT, EVEN THOUGH DRIVING STRAIGHT. WHEN APPLYING BRAKES, WHEEL NOW TURNED TO THE RIGHT. PULLED ASIDE AND RAN OVER CURB AS BRAKES WERE NOT AS EFFECTIVE. INITIAL DIAGNOSIS: BRAKES AND BEARINGS NEED REPAIR (ALTHOUGH THESE WERE REPLACED LESS THAN 5 MONTHS AGO). NEXT DIAGNOSIS: SUBFRAME PSG. SIDE COMPLETELY ROTTED AND CRACKED. WILL TAKE A MONTH TO REPAIR [RENTAL PROVIDED]. NOTE- THE PAST 6 MONTHS I'VE HAD OTHER ISSUES INCLUDING: ELECTRICAL (FUSE FOR RADIO/LOCKS/INT LIGHTS KEEPS BREAKING; AFTER 1.5 HOUR DIAGNOSTIC CAUSE STILL UNKNOWN. CHOSE TO REPLACE FUSE AS NEEDED- WEEKLY TO MONTHLY); 3 TIRES HAVE GONE (EVEN THOUGH 2 WERE FAIRLY NEW; NEEDED ALIGNMENT); BRAKES AND BEARINGS TWICE. COULD BE REGULAR WEAR AND TEAR OR COULD BE RELATED.

Mileage: 325,000

I WAS ON A CITY STREET TRAVELLING AROUND 35 MPH. WHILE APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT AND APPLYING THE BRAKES THE CAR SUDDENLY STARTED PULLING TO THE RIGHT AND ALMOST PULLED THE ENTIRE VEHICLE INTO A DITCH. THE VEHICLE CAME TO A STOP AT THE EDGE OF THE GRASS. I PULLED THE VEHICLE OVER FURTHER TO AVOID TRAFFIC AND NOTICED THE RIGHT TIRE WAS NOW TOUCHING THE WHEEL WELL. AFTER HAVING THE VEHICLE TOWED THE MECHANIC INFORMED ME THAT THERE WAS EXTENSIVE CORROSION UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE WHICH HAD LED TO THE FAILURE.

Mileage: 128,000

NOTICED A KNOCKING NOISE DEVELOPING IN FRONT PASSENGER SIDE. TOOK THE CAR TO A LOCAL GARAGE TO HAVE IT CHECKED OUT AND TO GET NEW TIRES AND ALIGNMENT. I WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE SUB-FRAME WAS ROTTED OUT AND THE CAR WAS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE. CONTACTED MAZDA FOR NEW SUB-FRAME AND WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE PART HAS BEEN ON BACK ORDER FOR 6 MONTHS AND THEY HAD NO IDEA WHEN THEY WOULD BE AVAILABLE. NOW I AM STUCK WITH AN 8 YEAR OLD CAR THAT IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE WITH NO HOPE FOR REPAIR.

Mileage: 138,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. UPON STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE STEERING WHEEL BECAME TIGHT AND EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO TURN LEFT OR RIGHT. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,213.

Mileage: 60,213

THIS VEHICLE DOES NOT TRACK STRAIGHT, EVEN ON A LEVEL ROAD. AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS (ABOVE 50 MPH) IT HAS A DECIDED PULL TO THE LEFT, REGARDLESS OF THE LATERAL SLOPE OF THE ROAD. CONSTANT CLOCKWISE PRESSURE ON THE STEERING WHEEL IS NECESSARY IN ORDER TO KEEP VEHICLE FROM DRIFTING IN A LEFTWARD DIRECTION. IF DRIVER ATTENTION IS DIVERTED FOR ONLY AN INSTANT THE VEHICLE IS LIKELY TO PARTIALLY INTRUDE INTO THE LANE TO THE LEFT, WHICH ON AN UNDIVIDED HIGHWAY COULD BE AN ONCOMING TRAFFIC LANE (HENCE THE SAFETY ISSUE). I CALLED THIS TO THE ATTENTION OF MY MAZDA DEALER'S SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT LEAST TWICE WITHIN THE FIRST YEAR AFTER PURCHASE (JANUARY 2010). THEIR ANSWER WAS NO ANSWER--THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG MECHANICALLY AND THERE WERE NO BULLETINS FROM MAZDA ON THE SUBJECT. THEY VERIFIED THE ALIGNMENT AND ROTATED THE TIRES LEFT TO RIGHT, BUT NEITHER OF THESE SOLVED THE PROBLEM. NEARLY FIVE YEARS LATER THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS AND SEEMS EVEN MORE PRONOUNCED THAN IT WAS ORIGINALLY. A RECENT CHECK WITH THE DEALER INDICATED THAT THERE IS STILL NOTHING FROM MAZDA. POSSIBLY IT IS A DEFECT THAT APPLIES ONLY TO MY CAR AND NOT IN GENERAL TO THAT MODEL, BUT I HAVE NO WAY OF DETERMINING THAT AT THIS POINT. *TR

Mileage: 500

THE ROTORS ARE WARPED AFTER LESS THEN 30K MILES. THIS CAUSES THE CAR TO SHIMMY WHEN BRAKING AT ANY APPRECIABLE SPEED (ANY SPEED OVER 40MPH). TOOK CAR TO DEALER AND THEY CLAIM IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE WARRANTY AS IT IS "NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR". CALLED MAZDA AND THEY TOO REFUSED TO FIX THE PROBLEM UNDER THE WARRANTY.

Mileage: 29,889