2010 MAZDA MAZDA6 Suspension Problems

Extensive rust and corrosion in rear subframe. So severe the vehicle is unsafe to drive.

2010 mazda 6 i series sedan the entire rear subframe/cradle is rotted along with all the other parts connected to it, the A arm, bumper stops, control arms, rear sway bar the entire rear under carriage. took it to the shop and they said there have been several complaints about this exact issue on several of these cars from 09-13 models. the parts was not painted correctly like the front that was recalled. exposed to all weather elements, the shop wants almost 4k for labor only to fix but the main problem is finding the rear subframe on these cars is almost impossible next to cost a fortune. now i have a yard ornament. junk yard wants to give me 170 bucks for the car but im not doing that. Mazda needs to fix this issue. i would of never know it was rotted out unless i took it to the shop for rear swaying and sagging. its all over the road. very dangerous and will cause a wreck almost certainly. please someone do something about this issue. dont have the money to fix this let alone buy another car.

The rear subframe is compromised; it separated from the body of the car. The vehicle is in my driveway and available for inspection should the need arise. The rear end had felt a bit shaky for a month so I took it to my mechanic, who declared the vehicle "unfit for the road" due to the fact that the subframe was rotted away and detached from the car itself. I was told one big bump is an accident waiting to happen...pieces of the car would go flying and I could be left with zero mobility to evade oncoming traffic. The possibility of projectiles injuring anyone around the car was enough for me to park it. The car has not been inspected by Mazda, the police, or insurance because there was no accident. Since it's not safe to drive, I took the word of my independent mechanic rather than driving it to a dealership. There were no warnings other than a bit of a sway in the rear end, which I originally attributed to its age. I've researched the issue and it seems to be a result of subpar quality with regard to the metal that was used in manufacturing.

Rear sub frame on car rusting out. Never protected from corrosion or rust. Car is currently in shop. Car has rusted out in the joint just behind drivers rear tire. Received notice of recall on the front of car due to salt and weather conditions front sub frame area replaced . Currently multiple cars have same issues Mazda hasnt fixed or issued any repairs for this

My gf went for a basic oil change and the automotive person was shocked to find the rear right cross bar to be suffering from incredible corrosion. He said at this point it is unsafe to drive. We looked into recalls for this make and model and there is one for the front cross bar due to insufficient or improper application of a corrosion spray on the frame. How can they say the front needs to be recalled and not the back? If the dealership didn’t do a good job of covering the appropriate metal frame in corrosion resistant spray any car that has that level should be recalled. This is immensely dangerous

The rear frame completely corroded. I was on my way to work this morning and the frame broke due to corrosion. I almost lost my life this morning. According to the recall only the front end was considered faulty. I took the vehicle in for the recall and only the front was looked at and replaced.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the rear frame detached from the vehicle. The contact stated that the vehicle was previously repaired under NHTSA Campaign Number: 18V631000 (Suspension, Structure) and the contact related the failure to the recall. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

Mileage: 160,000

I took car to dealership for recall repair (3) one of which was for front sub-frame corrision While it was there thet called Me and said that the rear sub-frame was rausted so bad it was unsafe to drive and that it would cost $4600 to fix it. It seems to Me if You aknowledge a corrision problem in the front then You would accept responsibility for rear. Mazda said that They would have fixed it if the title were not branded ? It was wrecked in the front end and I replaced hood grille bumper lights etc and has nothing to do with the rear sub-frame. The Mazda Forum say's that it is shoddy workmanship. This car only has 147,000 miles on it and runs like a new car. I am a US army Vet 10 years) and am retired and cannot afford to fix this on My own and this is about doing what is right so I am asking You to help Me to get this problem fixed so I can drive this car. Thank You,

While im driving the steering is shifting to the right and seems lower on right side. My tires daily need to have air in them because of the uneven weight. While I drive and let go of the gas the car pulls back like an E brake could be stuck not sure though. No accidents at all but it seems like the vehicle is getting weaker and weaker with the uneven weight going down on the tires and steering seems like it's going to crash onto the right without being able to control it.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6 . The contact stated while driving approximately 25 mph and drove over a bump and lost control of the vehicle and crashed into another vehicle. The contact stated the disc off warning light was illuminated. The contact stated no one was injured nor sought medical attention. A police report was not filed. The vehicle was not drivable. The contact was towed to her residence and then to a local dealer, where it was diagnosed with the rear structure was corroded and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 180,000. The contact stated that the dealership deemed the vehicle unsafe to bring to the shop and therefore did not perform the necessary repairs in the recall. The dealer notified the contact about that as well as the manufacturer. The contact must arrange a way to tow the vehicle off of their lot.

Mileage: 180,000

The rear subframe is corroded with rust to the point of about to break into pieces. I did not have control of the vehicle and could not drive above 40mph, sudden pull to one side while braking, loose steering. I could have had a wreck if the subframe would have broke before taking the vehicle in to be inspected by an independent service center. I live over an hour to the nearest Mazda dealership and the car is not drivable. No warning lamps came on and I first noticed the problems around January 11,2023. The part looks completely tissue thin all over and the rest of the components look new bolted to it. I do have pictures from the independent service center. I think the car needs to be seen by a regional service manager like a Mazda engineer. This is not just rust this is a defective part that was to thin to begin with.

The contact called on behalf of a client who owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the steering wheel failed to operate as designed and the vehicle was pulling either to the left or the right. The vehicle was diagnosed that the rear passenger’s side cross member was rusted and needed to be replaced. The dealer was notified of the failure and the contact was advised that the rear cross member was not covered. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and the mechanic was informed that the customer was liable for the cost of the repair. The failure mileage was approximately 70,000.

Mileage: 70,000

Rear subframe is rotted

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the vehicle had previously been serviced at the dealer under NHTSA Campaign Number: 18V631000 (Suspension, Structure). The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, she lost control of the vehicle. The failure caused the passenger's side rear tire to rub on the fender while driving. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the passenger's side rear subframe was severely corroded and had fractured in half. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000.

Mileage: 82,000

Crossmember rust from recall campaign 2818I is able to effect structural attachment despite recall work. The recall installed an "improved: cross member. This was not an actually replacement cross member, rather additional plate steel between the rear and front of the existing attachment points of the defective OE cross member. Improved cross member contains no provisions to support rapidly corroding lower control arm attachment point in original cross member. Added member for recall also does not appear to additionally support lateral stresses from control arm. Evaluation of original cross-member seemed inadequate to detect structural integrity based on condition of the cross member today. "improved" cross member does not support mounting points of the control arm. Based on recall documents, some "improved" cross members have supports for Lower Control Arm (LCA) mounts. This issued occurred with sudden change in steering and braking characteristics. Vehicle suddenly started pulling right. Issue further exacerbated after follow on braking. Passenger wheel suddenly lost alignment and camber is indicating lower attachment geometry change. I was able to control vehicle, but with significant effort.

My front sub frame was completely rotted, unsafe to drive and was repaired with Mazda's recall. It now appears that the REAR sub frame is rusting at an excessive rate. I have been reading several complaints where the same incidents are happening with the rear sub frame snapping while people are driving. Car is not safe. This needs to be addressed by Mazda. They are aware of front sub frame, but failed to include the REAR sub frame. Not sure what to do at this point, it will costs thousands to repair, yet is NOT SAFE to drive. Please look into this matter as this is a very serious issue and will result in serious injury or death.

after exiting the highway at 65+mph turned the corner and the rear of the car dropped and started dragging the ground without warning . pulled over to see rear suspension on the ground .i contacted dealer about it and they seem to be aware of similar complaints but do not seem to care .could have been different outcome one minute earlier !! this is the second time the frame collapsed on me in this car the first time was the recall 2818l same thing broke without warning . this is bad metal in the frames and someone is gonna die before mazda admits the cars are unsafe as lots of these cars are still on the road .

The wheels were turning in and the steering was really hard to keep straight had to turn the steering wheel almost half around car make Loud screaming noises.tires went flat ..i have 6 grandkids lucky I wasn't going fast the car could of flipped .subframe broke in half on passenger side rusted right out.i got this car from right way dealership in Saginaw Michigan in march of 2019 they never told me or never contacted me that there was a recall for the subframe breaking.could of killed someone!!!!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH, THE VEHICLE MADE AN ABNORMALLY LOUD SOUND BY THE PASSENGER'S SIDE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THE STEERING THEN BECAME DIFFICULT TO TURN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER BILL GATTON OF JOHNSON CITY MAZDA (2909 N. ROAN ST, JOHNSON CITY, TN 37601, (423) 418-6152) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH NEEDING THE SUBFRAME TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. UPON INVESTIGATION, THE CONTACT ASSOCIATED THE FAILURE WITH NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE) HOWEVER, THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS INFORMED OF FAILURE AND THE CONTACT WAS REFERRED TO NHTSA FOR ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 150,000.

Mileage: 150,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. WHILE TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL IN EITHER DIRECTION, A POPPING NOISE WAS HEARD FROM THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE POPPING NOISE WAS MORE AUDIBLE WHEN MAKING LEFT TURNS AND WHILE TURNING WITH THE TRANSMISSION IN REVERSE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, BUT NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

Mileage: 120,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS EXTENSIVE RUST AND CORROSION ON THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE). THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MCDONALD MAZDA (10345 W COLFAX AVE, LAKEWOOD, CO 80215, (720) 449-9900) WHERE THE CROSS MEMBER WAS INSPECTED, BUT THEY REFUSED TO INSTALL A SIDE MEMBER (FOR REINFORCEMENT). THE DEALER ALSO HAD NOT REPLACED THE AIR CONDITIONER DRAIN HOSE AND NO RUST PROOFING WAS APPLIED TO THE CROSS MEMBER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED DUE TO NON-COMPLIANCE OF THE DEALER AND THE MANUFACTURER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT BEING DRIVEN. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 103,981. *BF CONSUMER STATED UPON SEEING THE UNDERSIDE OF THE VEHICLE I IMMEDIATEDLY NOTICED CORROSION COVERING LARGE PORTIONS OF THE CROSS MEMBER. THERE WERE SEVERAL CORRODED MOUNTING HOLES AND LARGE WELDS THAT HAD SIGNS OF ADVANCED DECAY. THE DAMAGE WAS OBVIOUS AND I TOOK SEVERAL PICTURES AND RECORDED A VIDEO SHOWING THE WIDESPEAD CORROSION. 'PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).'*JB

Mileage: 103,981

WHILE MAKING A RIGHT TURN, I HIT THE BRAKES TO AVOID COLLIDING WITH SOMEONE WHO PULLED IN FRONT OF ME AND THE PASSENGER'S SIDE FRONT WHEEL LOCKED INTO A POSITION TURNED TO THE RIGHT. I HAD IT TOWED TO A REPAIR SHOP, WHERE I WAS INFORMED THAT THE CONTROL ARM HAD SEPARATED FROM THE FRAME DUE TO RUST. IT SEEMS THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE IN 2018 FOR CERTAIN STATES, AND WHILE I DO NOT CURRENTLY RESIDE IN ONE OF THE AFFECTED STATES, I USED TO AND MY CAR DID FOR MOST OF ITS LIFE.

Mileage: 98,000

WHEN MANEUVERING TO OR FROM PARKING WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED AND PUTS ANY PRESSURE ON THE STEERING COMPONENTS THE RIGHT FRONT OF THE CAR MAKES A VERY LOUD CLUNKING AND POPPING AND MAKES BOTH STEERING AND MOVING DIFFICULT. IT HAS GOTTEN PROGRESSIVELY WORSE OVER THE LAST 2 MONTHS SO I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND OUT ABOUT THE POSSIBLE CORROSION ISSUE OF THE FRONT RIGHT SUBFRAME AND RECALL "INSPECTION". I WILL CALL MY LOCAL DEALER AND SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT AS IT SEEMS THIS CAR IS UNDER AN OPEN RECALL AND WAS NEVER LOOKED AT. I JUST BOUGHT IT AS A USED CAR IN MID OCTOBER AND MOSTLY DRIVE MY TRUCK ALL WINTER SO IT TOOK AWHILE FOR THIS TO SURFACE.

Mileage: 100,000

I HAVE THE OPEN AND DANGEROUS RECALL ( # 2818I ) STILL PENDING AT THIS TIME. IT WAS HARD ENOUGH JUST TO GET THE DEALERSHIP, IN ORDER TO INSPECT THE CAR FOR CORROSION IN THE CONCERNING AREAS. I DON'T FEEL THAT THE CAR IS SAFE TO DRIVE AT THIS TIME AND PREFER THAT NO ONE RIDES WITH ME WHEN DRIVING IT, JUST FOR THE SAFETY OF OTHERS. I'M VERY CONCERNED THAT THIS FIX WILL NOT COME SOON ENOUGH AND THE PROBLEM KEEP MESSING UP MY CARS ALIGNMENT. CAUSING ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS DRIVING IT, ESPECIALLY AT HIGH SPEEDS. THAT'S WHEN A WHEEL WOBBLE STARTS TO HAPPEN IN THE AFFECTED AREAS OF THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR. PLEASE HELP!

Mileage: 128,592

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE). THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. BROWN'S FAIRFAX MAZDA (10570 FAIRFAX BOULEVARD, FAIRFAX, VA 22030, (703) 385-8170) WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REMEDY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

MAZDA INCOMPLETE RECALL 28181; NHTSA RECALL 18V-631; I HAD MY VEHICLE INSPECTED AS REQUIRED AND WAS TOLD DUE TO RUST/CORROSION/PERFORATIONS THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. INFORMED NO PARTS AVAILABLE AND MAZDA HAS GIVEN NO INFO ON WHEN PARTS MAY BE AVAILABLE; DEALERS HAVE NO INFO AT ALL ON TIMING FOR REPAIRS; CANNOT GET THRU TO MAZDA FOR MORE INFO AND MAZDA DOES NOT EVEN LIST THIS ON THEIR SITE AS A RECALL; THIS IS A DANGEROUS CONDITION AND AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR

Mileage: 87,000

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBERS: 18V717000 (AIR BAGS) AND 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE). THE CONTACT CALLED SENTRY WEST MAZDA AT 508-281-8171 (LOCATED AT 940 BOSTON TURNPIKE, SHREWSBURY, MA 01545) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH, A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD AND THE STEERING LOST POWER WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE SAME DEALER WHERE IT WAS STATED THAT THE RECALL REPAIRS NEEDED TO BE PERFORMED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 60,000. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V717000 (AIR BAGS) AND VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE).

Mileage: 60,000

WHILE APPLYING THE BRAKES AT APPROXIMATELY 30MPH, THERE WAS SHARP JOLT, AND THE STEERING WHEEL JERKED ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT. THE LOW-TRACTION INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR WAS NOT ABLE TO BE SAFELY STEERED. UPON VISUAL INSPECTION, THE FRONT RIGHT TIRE WAS TURNED OUTWARD, WHILE THE FRONT LEFT REMAINED STRAIGHT. A MECHANIC CONFIRMED THAT THE ISSUE WAS CAUSED BY A FULLY CORRODED SUB-FRAME WHICH HAD CRACKED IN HALF.

Mileage: 100,000

MY SON WAS DRIVING THE CAR APPROXIMATELY 40MPH ON A STATE ROUTE IN A RURAL AREA AND EXPERIENCED A SUDDEN LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL AND SHARP PULL TO THE RIGHT WHEN HE WAS TRYING TO BRAKE. THIS NEARLY CAUSED HIM TO HIT A TRUCK. WHEN HE REGAINED CONTROL HE NOTICED THE STEERING WHEEL WAS NOT ALIGNED WHILE GOING STRAIGHT AND THE CAR CONTINUED TO PULL TO THE RIGHT. WHEN HE MANAGED TO MAKE IT HOME WE JACKED IT UP AND REMOVED THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. I NOTICED THAT THE CROSS MEMBER ON THE RIGHT SIDE WAS COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH. THIS WAS THE ONLY NOTICIBLY LARGE AREA OF RUST ON THE CAR. THE CAR IS NOW UNDRIVEABLE.

Mileage: 109,600

AFTER EXITING THE HIGHWAY APPLIED TH BRAKES AND STEERING WHEEL WENT TO 12:00 AND 6:00 WHILE THE CAR KEPT GOING STRAIGHT .APPLY THE GAS AND WHEEI GOES BACK TO NORMAL .HIT THE BRAKES AND REPEAT THE CYCLE AGAIN ..TOOK TO DEALERSHIP TO FIND OUT RT. FRONT SUBFRAME IS RUSTED THRU .. CAR IS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AND IS PARKED AT MONTROSE MAZDA IN KENT OHIO .NEW FRAME AND LABOR IS 2,000.00 AND PARTS ARE BACKORDERED TELLING ME OTHERS HAVE TO BE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES .. WHO ORDERS A NEW FRAME FOR THEIR CAR ? CAR WAS JUST AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND THEN LOST COMPLERE CONTROL OF CAR .GLAD NO ONE WAS HURT

Mileage: 165,000

ON SEPTEMBER 12, 2018 I TOOK MY 2010 MAZDA 6I TO A LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP TO GET PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE DONE ON THE VEHICLE, REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT. WHEN THE MAZDA TECH STARTED THE JOB, HE DISCOVERED THAT THE ENTIRE FRONT SUB-FRAME THAT HOLDS THE FRONT END SUSPENSION, STEERING COMPONENTS, MOTOR AND TRANSMISSION WAS RUSTED AND ROTTED OUT WITH SEVERAL HOLES AND FLAKING METAL. THE TECH WAS UNABLE TO PERFORM THE JOB AS HE STATED HE COULD NOT REMOVE THE SUB-FRAME AND KEEP IT IN TACT. THE TECH REPORTED THAT THIS CREATED A HAZARDOUS AND UNSAFE CONDITION AND THAT UNTIL REPAIRED WITH A NEW OR OTHER-WISE IN-TACT SUB-FRAME THE CAR WOULD BE UNSAFE TO DRIVE. UPON CHECKING ON-LINE I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS QUICKLY BECOMING A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE MAZDA 6 OF THIS MODEL YEAR (2009 TO 2019). THE SUB-FRAME SHOULD NOT BE THAT ROTTED OUT IN A 2010 VEHICLE WITH 101921 MILES ON IT AND NO RUST ON THE BODY.

Mileage: 101,921

8/11/2018WHILE MERGING FROM ROUTE 9 ONTO ROUTE 95, I HEARD A CLANK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY CAR, DIDN'T THINK SINCE DRIVING THROUGH DEEP FLOODING FROM CURRENT RAINSTORM. WAS ON I-95 WHEN STEERING SEEMED TO GO, VEER TO THE RIGHT AND BRAKES NOT CATCHING. WAS ABLE TO GET OFF HIGHWAY, REGAINED CONTROL OF CAR, WENT TO MY DESTINATION ON RTE 109. DROVE, PUMPED BREAKS SINCE I THOUGHT THE PROBLEM WAS FLOODING & WET BRAKES. LEFT TO GO TO NEXT DESTINATION & STEERING WAS OFF, SO DROVE VERY SLOWLY (STEERING OFF & HAD TO KEEP TURNING TO THE LEFT) ONCE AGAIN THINKING WEATHER RELATED. EXITED 95 TO SPRAUGE ST. DEDHAM WHERE BRAKES WEREN'T WORKING WELL, DROVE TO FRIENDS IN AREA AND AS I DROVE DOWN HILL, CAR LOST STEERING AND I LANDED UP CURB, BRAKES WEREN'T WORKING, PUT ON EMERGENCY BRAKE & FINALLY STOPPED. FRIENDS HOUSE WAS AROUND THE CORNER SO ROLLED DOWN HILL TO HER HOUSE TO LET CAR DRY AS STILL THOUGHT IT WAS FROM FLOODING. LEFT HER HOUSE AFTER AN HOUR, DROVE TWO BLOCKS AND CAR COMPLETELY LOST ALL STEERING, LIGHTS ON DASHBOARD STARTED FLASHING, BRAKES WENT. CALLED AAA AND WAS TOWED TO STEVE'S SERVICE STATION WHERE ON MONDAY THE CAR WAS DEEMED "TOTALED". THE ENTIRE SUB-CARRIAGE WAS COVERED IN RUST & CORROSION, THERE WERE HOLES, PIECES OF METAL FROM THE CAR MISSING AND MAJOR CRACKS ALL UNDERNEATH AND ENCASING THE BRAKES AND OTHER PART OF CAR. WAS TOLD IF I HAD GONE A BIT FASTER ON 95, BOTTOM WOULD HAVE FALLEN LEADING TO SERIOUS ACCIDENT. NOTE: THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS WITH MAZDA6 AND MAZDA HAS DONE NOTHING. I CANNOT RECEIVE FINANCIAL COMPENSATION FROM INSURANCE SINCE IS CORROSION AND NOT COLLISION THAT CAUSED THE PROBLEMS. FINANCIAL DISASTER. 47K MILES, ONE OWNER CAR. CONSULTS FROM MECHANICS SAID THEY HAVE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THIS ON 8 YR OLD CAR. APPRAISER SAID MAZDA KNOWN FOR RUST PROBLEMS - GAVE ME WEBSITES TO RESEARCH TO ASSIST. PLEASE HELP!

Mileage: 47,000

I BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE STEERING, ESPECIALLY WHEN TURNING AT INTERSECTIONS, IT MADE SOME BANG/BUMP NOISES, AND FELT LIKE THE FRONT WHEELS WEREN'T TURNING UNLESS I REALLY CRANKED THE STEERING WHEEL. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER FOR AN EVALUATION, AND THEY PROMPTLY PULLED IT OFF THE ROAD, TELLING ME IT WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. TURNS OUT THE FRONT SUBFRAME ON THE PASSENGER SIDE HAD RUSTED OUT SO BADLY THAT IT WAS ALMOST SPLIT INTO TWO PIECES, AND I COULD LITERALLY POKE HOLES THROUGH THE RUSTED AREAS, AFFECTING THE OPERATION OF BOTH THE STEERING AND SUSPENSION. IF THE SUBFRAME HAD INDEED SPLIT, ACCORDING TO THE MECHANIC, THE STEERING WOULD'VE FAILED AND I COULD'VE LOST THE RIGHT FRONT WHEEL.

Mileage: 114,813

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK, WHEN I NOTICED THAT MY STEERING WAS NOT WORKING RIGHT. EVERY TIME I HIT A BUMP IN THE ROAD IT BECAME HARD TO CONTROL. TO STAY STRAIGHT, MY STEERING WHEEL HAD TO BE TURN ALMOST COMPLETELY LEFT. I FIGURED I WAS JUST BADLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT. I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP TO GET MY ALIGNMENT DONE, AND THEY TOLD ME THE SUB FRAME WAS ROTTED OUT. THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND WELL MAINTAINED. HE WAS NOT ABLE TO EXPLAIN WHY IT WAS ROTTED OUT, BUT THE REST OF THE UNDERNEATH LOOKED GOOD.

Mileage: 80,000

WHILE DRIVING ON TOWN ROADS AND AROUND A TRAFFIC CIRCLE A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD FROM THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. I ATTEMPTED TO PULL INTO A NEARBY GAS STATION BUT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STEER TO THE LEFT ENOUGH TO ENTER THE PARKING LOT. I MANAGED TO PULL INTO ANOTHER LOT A SHORT DISTANCE DOWN THE STREET ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE. I INSPECTED THE UNDER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND DISCOVERED THE FRONT SUB-FRAME HAD RUSTED THROUGH TO THE POINT OF FAILURE. THIS FAILURE ALLOWED THE COMPLETE FRONT LEFT WHEEL/SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY TO MOVE ABOUT FREELY UNDER THE CAR.

Mileage: 87,000

FRONT SUBFRAME CORROSION. WE WERE FORTUNATE IN THAT WE NOTICED THE CAR PULLING TO THE RIGHT, SLOWED DOWN, HEARD A "POP" AND LOST CONTROL OF STEERING BUT WE WERE GOING SLOW PULLED OVER AND TOWED TO GARAGE. THE PART HAS A 3 WEEK DELIVERY TIME AND THE PRICE HAS RECENTLY DOUBLED FROM 600.00 TO 1,200.00 IN THE FEW DAYSOUR MECHANIC CALLED TO GET. THIS SEEMSTO BE A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE BUT NO RECALL.

Mileage: 110,000

HEARD A KNOCK WHILE DRIVING (AS THOUGH HITTING POTHOLE). NEXT DAY STEERING COLUMN FELT LOOSE, BREAKS SEEMED WORN AND SOUND ON SHARP TURNS. LATER THAT DAY WHILE DRIVING IN CITY, WENT OVER A NORMAL DIP IN THE ROAD AND HEARD A CRACK/LOUDER KNOCK. WHEEL TURNED TO THE LEFT, EVEN THOUGH DRIVING STRAIGHT. WHEN APPLYING BRAKES, WHEEL NOW TURNED TO THE RIGHT. PULLED ASIDE AND RAN OVER CURB AS BRAKES WERE NOT AS EFFECTIVE. INITIAL DIAGNOSIS: BRAKES AND BEARINGS NEED REPAIR (ALTHOUGH THESE WERE REPLACED LESS THAN 5 MONTHS AGO). NEXT DIAGNOSIS: SUBFRAME PSG. SIDE COMPLETELY ROTTED AND CRACKED. WILL TAKE A MONTH TO REPAIR [RENTAL PROVIDED]. NOTE- THE PAST 6 MONTHS I'VE HAD OTHER ISSUES INCLUDING: ELECTRICAL (FUSE FOR RADIO/LOCKS/INT LIGHTS KEEPS BREAKING; AFTER 1.5 HOUR DIAGNOSTIC CAUSE STILL UNKNOWN. CHOSE TO REPLACE FUSE AS NEEDED- WEEKLY TO MONTHLY); 3 TIRES HAVE GONE (EVEN THOUGH 2 WERE FAIRLY NEW; NEEDED ALIGNMENT); BRAKES AND BEARINGS TWICE. COULD BE REGULAR WEAR AND TEAR OR COULD BE RELATED.

Mileage: 325,000

I WAS ON A CITY STREET TRAVELLING AROUND 35 MPH. WHILE APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT AND APPLYING THE BRAKES THE CAR SUDDENLY STARTED PULLING TO THE RIGHT AND ALMOST PULLED THE ENTIRE VEHICLE INTO A DITCH. THE VEHICLE CAME TO A STOP AT THE EDGE OF THE GRASS. I PULLED THE VEHICLE OVER FURTHER TO AVOID TRAFFIC AND NOTICED THE RIGHT TIRE WAS NOW TOUCHING THE WHEEL WELL. AFTER HAVING THE VEHICLE TOWED THE MECHANIC INFORMED ME THAT THERE WAS EXTENSIVE CORROSION UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE WHICH HAD LED TO THE FAILURE.

Mileage: 128,000

NOTICED A KNOCKING NOISE DEVELOPING IN FRONT PASSENGER SIDE. TOOK THE CAR TO A LOCAL GARAGE TO HAVE IT CHECKED OUT AND TO GET NEW TIRES AND ALIGNMENT. I WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE SUB-FRAME WAS ROTTED OUT AND THE CAR WAS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE. CONTACTED MAZDA FOR NEW SUB-FRAME AND WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE PART HAS BEEN ON BACK ORDER FOR 6 MONTHS AND THEY HAD NO IDEA WHEN THEY WOULD BE AVAILABLE. NOW I AM STUCK WITH AN 8 YEAR OLD CAR THAT IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE WITH NO HOPE FOR REPAIR.

Mileage: 138,000

WHEN PERFORMING AN OIL CHANGE I NOTICED THAT THE SUBFRAME / ENGINE CRADLE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE NEAR THE RIGHT SUSPENSION WAS SEVERELY RUSTED. THE SUBFRAME IS NO LONGER STRUCTURALLY SOUND AND I HAVE PARKED THE VEHICLE UNTIL A REPAIR IS COMPLETED. THE VEHICLE IS NO LONGER SAFE TO BE ON THE ROAD. THE SEVERE CORROSION APPEARS TO BE ISOLATED TO THE RIGHT SIDE WITH THE REST OF THE SUBFRAME SHOWING SURFACE CORROSION NORMALLY SEEN IN AN AREA THAT USES ROAD SALT SUCH AS MINNESOTA. I BELIEVE THAT THE CAUSE OF THIS FAILURE IS THE AIR CONDITIONING EVAPORATOR DRAIN DRIPPING ON THE SUBFRAME. AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE ATTACHED PICTURES THERE IS NO DRAIN HOSE USED TO DIVERT THE WATER FROM THE EVAPORATOR AROUND THE FRAME AND OVERBOARD. THIS MOISTURE MIXED WITH THE ROAD SALT CREATED A DANGEROUS AMOUNT OF CORROSION ON A KEY STRUCTURAL COMPONENT. I AM GLAD I NOTICED THIS BEFORE AN ACCIDENT OCCURRED

THIS VEHICLE DOES NOT TRACK STRAIGHT, EVEN ON A LEVEL ROAD. AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS (ABOVE 50 MPH) IT HAS A DECIDED PULL TO THE LEFT, REGARDLESS OF THE LATERAL SLOPE OF THE ROAD. CONSTANT CLOCKWISE PRESSURE ON THE STEERING WHEEL IS NECESSARY IN ORDER TO KEEP VEHICLE FROM DRIFTING IN A LEFTWARD DIRECTION. IF DRIVER ATTENTION IS DIVERTED FOR ONLY AN INSTANT THE VEHICLE IS LIKELY TO PARTIALLY INTRUDE INTO THE LANE TO THE LEFT, WHICH ON AN UNDIVIDED HIGHWAY COULD BE AN ONCOMING TRAFFIC LANE (HENCE THE SAFETY ISSUE). I CALLED THIS TO THE ATTENTION OF MY MAZDA DEALER'S SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT LEAST TWICE WITHIN THE FIRST YEAR AFTER PURCHASE (JANUARY 2010). THEIR ANSWER WAS NO ANSWER--THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG MECHANICALLY AND THERE WERE NO BULLETINS FROM MAZDA ON THE SUBJECT. THEY VERIFIED THE ALIGNMENT AND ROTATED THE TIRES LEFT TO RIGHT, BUT NEITHER OF THESE SOLVED THE PROBLEM. NEARLY FIVE YEARS LATER THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS AND SEEMS EVEN MORE PRONOUNCED THAN IT WAS ORIGINALLY. A RECENT CHECK WITH THE DEALER INDICATED THAT THERE IS STILL NOTHING FROM MAZDA. POSSIBLY IT IS A DEFECT THAT APPLIES ONLY TO MY CAR AND NOT IN GENERAL TO THAT MODEL, BUT I HAVE NO WAY OF DETERMINING THAT AT THIS POINT. *TR

Mileage: 500