2016 SUBARU CROSSTREK Unknown Or Other Problems

The CVT valve body was diagnosed as defective by the Subaru Dealership service department. The car was taken to the dcealership when the A/T OIL EMP, HILL ASSIST, ABS and TRACTION CONTROL, STABILITY CONTROL lights came up. The valve body is still available for inspection. The car was taken to the dealership for a Brake Light Switch recall that has the same simptoms.

Our 2016 Subaru Crosstrek (Automatic Transmission) has had intermittent issues with it losing power despite our foot being on the accelerator. It will typically reengage if we take our foot off the accelerator for a bit and then hit the gas again. However, it has become a more frequent problem and feels increasingly unsafe to drive, particularly with our 2 small children in the car, because it loses power without warning so it leaves us vulnerable for being rear-ended while changing lanes, taking turns, etc. We have been working with our local dealership (Beyer Subaru in Alexandria, VA) to address the issue, but they have only been able to replicate the issue once in a 4-week period and they have not been able to document it. The one time they were able to replicate the problem the car was not hooked up to any computer/system. I have found this forum that documents similar problems with Crosstreks - [XXX] , as well as a Service Bulletin which references a similar issue in 2018-21MY Crosstrek 2.0L MT - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10201030-0001.pdf. While the 2nd does refer specifically to Manual Transmissions, I feel like this is indicative of a trend that is not being acknowledged for other Model Year's and transmission types, but presents a serious safety issue.  INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I have a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek 5 speed manual transmission and it only has 64000 on it. The clutch went out and I took it to the dealership to have the car worked on and hopefully repaired. At first they said it was the clutch and master cylinder. Then they called me back and said the entire transmission needed to be replaced and it would cost $9000! Seriously? At only 64000 miles? Somehow some kind of "snout" broke off and they needed to replace the whole thing. Blue Book on this car is only slightly over $9000 and I need to spend what it is worth to repair? I may never own another subaru ever again if this is what happens at such a low mileage.

Driving down the freeway I had cruise control set. All of the sudden the cruise control shut off and it was like the car was in neutral. When I pushed on the gas it just revved I was able to coast to an exit and right before the top of the hill, all the indicator lights went on and the car shut off. I had the vehicle towed to a Subaru dealership the next morning when they went to work on the car, the car started fine. They were unable to find anything wrong with the vehicle when they plugged it into the computer. My gas levels were low, but I still showed 90 miles to empty.

I have a 2016 Crosstrek. It hestitates when you start after a stop. I have taken it to the dealership. They feel the hesitation but do not know what the problem is. The cost they estimated to fix was over $1,000, BUT with no guarantee they could fix it because they do not know what the problem is. It is not the fuel. After looking online Subaru problems, this seems to be a problem with Subaru. The safety issue, I am afraid of, when you are at a busy intersection and start to pull out in traffic what if the car stalls. It hasn't stalled yet, so far just hesitating upon initial acceleration.

While driving down the highway, the hood popped open and slammed backwards, shattering my windshield, damaging both fenders (to the point where the hood could not be lowered back down), and wrinkling the roof. I was in the middle lane and had to navigate blindly over to the shoulder, while covered in glass; miraculously, I was able to do so safely. It is a miracle I was not hurt or killed and that others around me were not hurt or killed. There was very real potential for a multi car pile up that day. I'm not aware of reproduction or confirmation of the problem. Police responded, but stated since I did not hit anything, there would be no accident report. My insurance inspected the vehicle at least twice, as did my mechanic throughout the course of his estimation and repair. At my last oil change at the dealership (months prior), the desk agent mentioned the auto techs had a hard time getting my hood closed but recommended no further service to me.

Sunroof exploded - driving on interstate at about 75 miles an hour, Sunday around 11:30a, temperature around 80 degrees, no flying debris, heard something like a small explosion and then shattered car glass blowing along roof. Pulled over to see the sunroof looked like it had blown up and out leaving hole about a foot wide. The interior ceiling panel had been closed so I couldn't see it from the inside, no damage to the interior panel that I could see. The car had been parked under my car port overnight, I'd been on the road about 15-20 minutes, no drastic changes in weather and no sounds from roof before explosion. No apparent damage to car/roof prior to explosion.

In October 2020, the OEM transmission on my 2016 Subaru Crosstrek failed at 87,500 miles. The transmission was covered under a recent extension of the warranty from 60,000 to 100,000 miles. See website info regarding extended warranty: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10146475-9999.pdf After driving the "new" transmission for 18 months and 40,000 miles, the transmission failed again. This time, Subaru America refused, at first, to admit any fault. They initially offered $1000 for replacement, then increased to $3500 as a final offer. My out of pocket was $4710. Now, after 8 months and less than 12,000 miles, the transmission has failed AGAIN. This transmission is under a 1 year/unlimited miles warranty. This will be the 4th transmission in a vehicle with 143,000 miles on it.

My horn does not works when wheels are straight. If I turn the steering wheel to either side horn works. No fuse or solenoid problem; I replaced both.

I was driving on the highway and my hood opened and flew back into the windshield. This caused my windshield to break. It was very dangerous and scary since I was driving on the highway. I was very lucky that I did not hit anything or anyone and also that no one else hit me. The tow truck driver said that the hood latch was broken. I have never had any issues with my hood closing prior to this and had no idea it was broken. There were no warning lights and the hood appeared to be closed, it looked the same as the hood always does, not lifted up or anything. The vehicle is still being fixed so I would think it could be further inspected if needed. The damage to my car is extensive. It needs a new hood, new windshield, fenders, and roof. The hood hit so hard that it caused the above mentioned parts to be distorted and bent. The part that failed on the car is the back up hood latch to prevent this from happening if the hood does open without warning like this.

The key will not come out of the ignition when placing the car in park! We have to fiddle with the shifter to get the key to release. Contacted the dealer and Subaru of America to see if this could be fixed as a recall, unfortunately it is a service bulletin as of now and costs >$500 to fix this known problem that occurred on a vehicle with 50K miles! This is unacceptable and would like it fixed at no charge.

Key gets stuck in ignition when vehicle is in park. The key will go to the on position but cannot be pulled out. You must turn the car back on and go into drive and reverse and park again to try and get the key to come out. Sometimes this does not work and you must do so again.

THERE IS A GRINDING NOISE COMING FROM ONE OF MY WHEELS . I'M PRETTY SURE IT'S A BAD WHEEL BEARING . NOTICED THE NOISE AFTER BRAKING VERY HARD TO AVOID A COLLISION .HAVE HAD THE SUV LOOKED AT TEST DRIVEN BY AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC . HE BELIEVES IT IS THE WHEEL BEARING

Mileage: 38,000

IGNITION KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION AND CAR REMAINS ON UNTIL IT CAN BE REMOVED.THIS HAPPENS AFTER PLACING THE CAR IN PARK. CHANGING TO ANOTHER KEY DOES NOT CHANGE THE PROBLEM. AN INTERNET SEARCH AND THE CAR DEALERSHIP NOTE THAT IS A COMMON PROBLEM IN SUBARU'S.

Mileage: 26,000

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN IN PARK AND HARD TO GET OUT. HAVE TO START THE VEHICLE, SHIFT AND TRY AGAIN FOR IT TO COME OUT.

Mileage: 90,000

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION SWITCH WHILE IN PARK AND DOES NOT WANT TO COME OUT.

Mileage: 26,400

2016 SUBARU CROSSTREK DRIVING WENT TO PARK KEY GOT STUCK IN IGNITION COULD NOT TAKE IT OUT CANT UNDERSTAND WHY SO MANY PROBLEMS AND NO RECALLS

Mileage: 33,336

OUT OF GAS WITH 3 BARS SHOWING...TWICE *TR *BF*JB

Mileage: 1,243

WHILE PUTTING MY VEHICLE IN PARK THE KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION. IT TAKES MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS OF GOING BACK AND FORTH TO GET THE KEY TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION. TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH "FAILURE TO PARK POSITION, AND NEEDED TO REPLACE THE MICRO SWITCH PLATE" WITH A COST OF APPROXIMATELY $800.00 DOLLARS. *TR

Mileage: 40,000

A/C COMPRESSOR HAS FAILED AND THE CAR HAS LESS THAN 80K MILES.

Mileage: 75,000

CAR IS PARKED AND KEY IS STUCK IN IGNITION TO REMOVE IT.

Mileage: 12,893

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HWY APPROX 1.5 HRS TRAVELING 75 MPH AND 60 MILES OF GAS LEFT IN TANK THE VEHICLE CUT OFF.. I COASTED INTO THE EMERGENCY LANE AND SHUT OFF VEH. NO WARNING LIGHTS GIVEN OR OUT OF FUEL. RE-STARTED THE VEHICLE AND DROVE WITHOUT ISSUES TO THE NEXT EXIT, FILLED THE TANK AND CONTINUED ANOTHER 45 MIN TO HOME WITHOUT ISSUE. SINCE, IVE ONLY DRIVEN SHORT DISTANCES TO AND FROM WORK AND ERRANDS W/O ISSUES. AFRAID IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN AND CONCERNED ABOUT ANY FUTURE ROAD TRIPS. DO TO NO WARNING OR REPAIR LIGHTS AND THE VEH DRIVING W/O ISSUE, I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO BEGIN. I JUST WANT TO FEEL SAFE DRIVING MY VEHICLE FURTHER THAN HOME

Mileage: 99,000

THREE YEAR OLD CAR AND HORN DOESN'T WORK ,,,

Mileage: 124,627

KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. SEVERITY INCREASES WITH OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE AND DRIVE TIME. KEY HAS BEEN UNABLE TO BE REMOVED ON TWO OCCASIONS. REPEATED VISITS TO THE DEALERSHIP HAS RESULTED IN NO LONG TERM FIXES. THIS IS AN ON GOING ISSUE SINCE FEB 2019. THIS RESULTS IN A CAR IN PARK, THAT CAN NOT BE LOCKED, WITH A KEY THAT CAN BE TURNED ON AND USED BY ANYONE WHO OPENS THE DOOR AND SITS IN THE DRIVERS SEAT.

Mileage: 65,000

MY WIFE WAS JUST GETTING ON THE FREEWAY WHEN THE SUNROOF EXPLODED AND SHATTERED GLASS ALL THROUGH THE CAR. NOTHING HIT THE CAR AND THERE WAS NO WEATHER CONDITIONS, IT WAS SUNNY AND 68 DEGREES IN BOISE, ID.

Mileage: 436,560

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION AFTER VEHICLE SHUT OFF. CAN NOT BE REMOVED UNTIL TRYING TO SHIFT GEAR. SEEMS LIKE IT IS NOT GOING INTO PARK. STARTED AUGUST 8, 2019 AND EVERY DAY SINCE.

Mileage: 39,000

MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION ON THE ACC POSITION, SO I CAN NOT LEAVE MY CAR WITH THE KEY IN IT BECAUSE THE BATTERY IS STILL ON. THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND IN PARK. I TURN THE KEY COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND REMOVE THE KEY, THE KEY WILL NOT GO FURTHER THAN THE ACC POSITION, AND NO, IT IS NOT THAT I'M NOT PUSHING IT IN ENOUGH OR THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK. I AM ESSENTIALLY STUCK IN MY CAR OR AT RISK OF IT BEING STOLEN. IT HAPPENS FREQUENTLY (AT LEAST ONCE A DAY) BUT NOT EVERY SINGLE TIME I DRIVE THE CAR. IT HAS MADE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO DRIVE, AND FOR FEAR OF DAMAGING THE TRANSMISSION OR ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS FURTHER I TRY NOT TO DRIVE IT. SUBARU IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE ACROSS FIVE OTHER SUBARU MODELS OVER FIVE YEARS (2013-2018; LEGACY, OUTBACK, IMPREZA, CROSSTREK, FORESTER, WRX - UNTIL RECENTLY THEIR ENTIRE LINEUP!) AND ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN LAST YEAR (ATTACHED). IT IS AFFECTING SO MANY OTHER CUSTOMERS, YET THEY WILL NOT FIX IT. THE SERVICE BULLETIN ANNOUNCED A DESIGN CHANGE TO THE CVT SELECT LEVER DUE TO PARK-RANGE SWITCH INTERNAL COMPONENTS. THEY CLAIM IT IS "ISOLATED" BUT A QUICK SEARCH ON THE INTERNET PROVES THIS IS NOT THE CASE.

Mileage: 41,000

WHEN GETTING OUT OF THE VEHICLE KEY IS ALWAYS STUCK EVEN IF THE SHIFTER IS ON PARK MODE, HAD TO RESTART THE ENGINE AND PUSH THE SHIFTER WITH FORCE TO RELEASE THE KEY.

Mileage: 20,000

THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER PLACING THE CAR IN PARK AND TURNING THE ENGINE OFF. THE CAR DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT IT IS IN PARK SO IT WON'T RELEASE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. WE TOOK THE CAR IN FOR THE BREAK LIGHT SWITCH RECALL AND IT STARTED HAPPENING THE NEXT WEEK.

Mileage: 51,000

I MADE SEVERAL COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE CAR NOT STARTING, TOO MUCH OIL CONSUMPTION ETC...THEN ON NOVEMBER 11, 2018, AT 3.42PM I WAS DRIVING ON HIGHWAY 87 WHEN CAR STOPPED SUDDENLY, SMOKE CAME OUT AND FLAMES. IT BURNED DOWN IN 15 MINUTES. POLICE AND FIRE DEPARTMENT CAME TO TURN THE FIRE DOWN. THE CAR IS TOTAL LOSS. I COULD HAVE DIED

Mileage: 65,000

THE RADIO WITH SIRIUSXM DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY. APPARENTLY, SIRIUS UPDATED IS SOFTWARE, HOWEVER; THE SUBARU RADIOS ARE NOW NOT IN SYNC WITH SIRIUS. MY SITUATION IS NOT AN ISOLATED SITUATION. SPECIFICALLY, THE "LIST" DOES NOT WORK ANYMORE. IT COULD BE DANGEROUS TO MANUALLY CHANGE CHANNELS WITH THE KNOB, AS THERE ARE OVER 300 CHANNELS

TWICE NOW MY CAR HAS GONE LIMP ON THE FREEWAY. IT DOESN'T SHUT DOWN BUT THE ACCELERATOR STOPS WORKING AND I HAVE TO COAST OFF THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND RESTART IT. WHEN I DO RESTART IT IT'S FINE. BOTH TIMES THE ENGINE DOESN'T EVEN REV WHEN I PRESS THE GAS; IT'S JUST UNRESPONSIVE. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR ANYTHING EITHER. IT'S ALWAYS BEEN WHEN I WAS GOING AROUND 70 MPH AND THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE HAS BEEN HOT; PROBABLY 88-90 DEGREES.

Mileage: 12,000

TOXIC SMELL IN THE CAR. I NOTICED IT WHEN THE SALESMAN WAS GOING OVER HOW TO OPERATE THE VEHICLE AND HE SAID HE NOTICED IT, ALSO. I FIGURED IT WAS BRAND NEW AND IT WOULD GET BETTER, BUT IT DID NOT AND I HAVE HAD IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AT LEAST 6 TIMES. THEY HAVE TRIED MANY THINGS TO GET RID OF THE SMELL. NOTHING WORKS. NOW THEY SAY NOTHING IS MECHANICALLY WRONG, SO I AM STUCK WITH A CAR THAT MAKES ME SICK. THIS IS NOT NEW CAR SMELL, I WISH IT WERE. I HAVE BEEN IN AT LEAST 6 OTHER NEW SUBARU'S, AND NONE OF THEM SMELL LIKE THIS ONE DOES. THE SMELL IS NOT GETTING ANY BETTER OR FADING. IT MAKES ME LIGHTHEADED, GIVES ME HEADACHES, SORE THROATS, BLURRY VISION, POST NASAL DRIP, AND IF IN IT LONG ENOUGH, NAUSEA. MY HUSBAND ALSO HAS THESE ISSUES AND WILL NOT RIDE IN THE CAR.

Mileage: 52

THE DURATION OF TIME THAT IT TAKES TO GO FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE IS UNACCEPTABLE AND DANGEROUS. EVERY MORNING I DRIVE MY CHILD TO DAYCARE AND THERE HAVE BEEN NUMEROUS OCCASIONS WHERE I FEARED THAT WE WOULD GET REAR-ENDED (WHICH WOULD INJURE MY CHILD) DUE TO THE SLOW RESPONSE TIME GOING FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE. EVERY MORNING I HAVE TO BE 100% SURE TO TIME MY REVERSAL WHEN BACKING OUT AND MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO CARS ANYWHERE NEAR ME SO I DON'T GET CRASHED INTO. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE FIXED BEFORE THERE ARE ANY DEATHS OR INJURIES FROM THIS. ALSO, THIS IS A MINOR INCONVENIENCE BUT THE MOONROOF/SUNROOF DOESN'T OPEN 100% ALL THE WAY WHEN I CLICK THE AUTO OPEN BUTTON/FEATURE...IT OPENS AND THEN STOPS ABOUT 1 INCH BEFORE BEING FULLY OPEN. IN OTHER WORDS, IF YOU PRESS THE AUTO OPEN BUTTON TO OPEN THE MOONROOF, IT WILL STOP AT 90-95% OPEN THEN YOU HAVE TO MANUALLY PRESS IT AGAIN TO GET IT FULLY OPEN ANOTHER INCH TO 100%. WHEN I TOOK MY CROSSTREK TO THE DEALER TO HAVE THEM REPROGRAM MY TELEMATICS FOR THE TELEMATICS/COMPUTER REPROGRAMMING RECALL I HAD THEM TAKE A LOOK AT THE MOONROOF AND THEY SAID THAT IT IS "WORKING AS DESIGNED". WHY WOULD A MOONROOF NOT FULLY OPEN 100% BY DESIGN? IT CAN'T BE A SAFETY ISSUE, SO THIS JUST DOESN'T MAKE ANY SENSE AND LEADS ME TO BELIEVE THAT THE DEALERSHIP WAS BEING COMPLACENT AND LAZY AND DIDN'T FEEL LIKE HAVING TO ADJUST IT OR SIMPLY DIDN'T KNOW HOW.