2016 SUBARU LEGACY Electrical System Problems

Car battery dies after the vehicle sits for longer periods (approximately 2 weeks or more?). Roadside assistance has tested battery twice after jumping the vehicle and stated the battery is still healthy. Various Subara owners report similar situations in online forums, and the culprit seems to be a design flaw where the DCM module is trying to connect with the obsolete 3G cellular network, causing a parasitic battery drain.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Legacy. The contact stated that while driving at 60 MPH, the check engine warning light illuminated. The contact became aware that while the check engine light remained illuminated the horn failed to function as designed. The contact stated that after the check engine warning light issue was resolved the horn returned to normal functionality. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or an independent mechanic. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but provided no assistance; however, the manufacturer informed the contact that the failure was a known issue and advised the contact to stop driving the vehicle until the check engine warning light issue was resolved. The failure mileage was 184,000.

Mileage: 184,000

Battery dies really fast and ended up doing a replacement right after moving from Idaho to utah and losing a bolt and had to use a wrench from my late husbands toolbag in the trunk to keep it on the positive terminal I do believe after just having left the emergency room and was quite ill. The battery acid started to corrode the cables and everything along with it. Including the back seat, that had a seatbelt that got ripped accidentally when removing a babyseat from the car,

Battery has failed twice in a matter of a year. Both batteries were top of the line and no reason can be seen for failure. I see that there are a great deal of the same sort of complaints listed here and Subaru should be well aware of this issue.

I've own a 2016 Subaru Legacy Limited 3.6, for coming on 2 years. In the last 3 months I've had to replace my battery twice. The last being a red top battery costing $300+ and only lasted 2 days. The first incident that was most disruptive was, driving home in rush hour traffic when I lost all power, radio cut out, all lights on dash go out, my car begins to sputter and there is no power steering. Once traffic rolled to a stop it dies and wouldn't turn back over, couldn't pull my key from the ignition, roll the windows up, and once in park I couldn't change to neutral. It was very dangerous due to traffic, and I was stuck on a bridge that was a main arterial, with no emergency flashers. Had to have the city law enforcement call to get my car removed from the roadway. Had it towed to the dealership I purchased it from. The next day they told me my battery was dead and I needed a new one. Tested my alternator and that test good. Then again it died under the same symptoms as it did the first time. Leaving me stranded on a busy highway, at 10 at night. All of my symptoms were directly related to my a/c being on and sitting too long without driving, at idle or stop and go traffic and progrssively got to being a main battery drain. My key ittermediately wont pull from the ignition, steering wheel wont lock in place. My windows will randomly not roll up, but bounce down and stop halfway and lock temporarily in that position. I believe its all electrical problems or voltage issues. None the less... if there is no way to repair this, than it should be a recall..... because it's a serious problem with no solution and Subaru is fully aware of it.

Replaced battery but still all dash lights come on I lose power and it dies. I can jump start it and it stay but all lights stay on. New starter, new alternator, I just don't know what it is. Only code that comes up is P0420

My 2016 Subaru Legacy 4 -Door Sedan has Power Windows. When my vehicle was under it's Extended Warranty I had an issue with the Passenger Side Window. When trying to roll the window down, it would roll down and then quickly roll back up. Over and over again. I had to wait and possibly even turn off the vehicle to finally get the Passenger Window to close. But needless to say, it made me very nervous. I took my vehicle to the Subaru Dealership in Grapevine, Texas for repair. It was repaired at the time, at a cost of $100.00. But here I am yet again, and the same problem has happened again. And now my Driver's Side Window will not even roll down, at all. I no longer have the Extended Warranty, unfortunately. So, I am truly unsure if I feel comfortable taking it back for repairs. Wondering if this will happen again. And with the Driver's Side Window not being able to roll down at all, this has proved dangerous for me and my Mother. Who also drives my vehicle. It was/is especially quite dangerous going to do Curbside Pickups, Drive Thru for my Prescriptions, or food orders. I am very concerned for mine and my Mother's Safety with both Front Driver's Side and Passenger Side Windows not working properly at all. I have never had a vehicle with this kind of issue before and feel if Subaru is all about Safety then all my Windows should work properly. I am at a real loss here as to what to do, as I cannot afford any repairs due to financial hardships and my poor health. So, it is rarely driven anymore, even though I have paid the loan off and have the Title for the vehicle. I am very perplexed and need help as to what I could or should do, other than report this Safety Issue to NHTSA. Thankfully though, the Rear Windows work properly. I have not discovered any issues with those two windows. No Warning Lights or Alerts have been present either for the front windows. But it is a definite problem and safety issue when the front windows do not work as they should.

Consistent problems with parasitic battery drain. If the car is ever left to sit for more than two weeks, the battery will have died. I have to be careful because the battery does not recoup the energy required to start the vehicle in city driving. The second battery I installed in the car (7/2021) has failed prematurely and again requires replacement.

Battery drainage issue: Battery failed in my 2016 Subaru legacy in 2019, replaced with a new battery and died again in 2020, 2021, and 2022. This should be a recall not a class action lawsuit. Leaving someone stranded is a safety issue. No warning was given when the battery died. It was fine one day and dead the next day. Had to tow the vehicle at my expense to the Subaru dealership and was told that they needed to replace the battery, which I had to pay for and they performed an OBDII reprogramming of the engine control module. The dealership indicated that this should help with the drainage problem but I was not given a guarantee.

BATTERY DIED BECAUSE OF A DRAIN PROBLEM. I HAD TO REPLACE 2 BATTERIES IN ONE YEAR AND TEN MONTHS. HOW MANY BATTERIES MUST I REPLACED BEFORE SUBARU DOES A RECALL? IS THERE ANYTHING YOU CAN DO?

Having a problem with battery draining while the car is turned off. Experienced it previously 24,095 miles and 3 years on the first battery. Had to call AAA and get a jump start, and simply replaced the battery (9/18/19). Over the last year started experiencing similar problems with the replacement battery, and bought a battery charger, so when it would not start in the morning, I would put it on the charger and use my other car (a 2020 Subaru Forester). Took the Legacy to the dealer (10/15/22 - 39,224 odometer reading), he tested the battery, and said there was no problem. Went on vacation for 5 days, came back, and again the car would not start. Took it to another battery dealer, after charging, and they also said there was no problem with the battery. Recently found out that Subaru has agreed to a settlement in a class action lawsuit. Since Subaru understands the problem Hardware/ Software problem with the CAN system, why the affected vehicles are not subject to recall. Vehicles include 2015 - 2020 Outback; 2025 - 2020 Forester; 2015 - 2020 Legacy; 2015 - 2020 WRX; 2019 - 2020 Ascent. I would think the possibility of stranding a motorist in a remote location, adverse weather conditions, etc. would deem this defect to be serious safety defect.

Battery drains completely and will not start if not driven for a day. Have had the battery rep,aced twice and electrical system checked, yet batteries continue to discharge and are dead if the vehicle is not driven for one day.

Start up issues, often need to jump vehicle with a relatively new battery. Power window issues

I bought the car used in 07/2020. Took the vehicle to get it checked at a Subaru Dealership Service center. When I returned to pick up my car, it would not start. The shop checked told me the battery was dead and would need to be replaced. I complained that it was functioning fine when I put it in and their reports did not state any issues with the battery. After much complaining they offered a free oil change but I had to pay for the battery. Now, only 26 months into the new battery, it is showing corrosion build up on the battery. Powder and acid. A non Subaru shop just serviced the car and the safety check revealed that the battery was in "Fair" condition with reduced CCA.

UNKNOWN- Car electrical system drains battery to the point, after short drives, does not have sufficient amperage to start motor. No problem with battery, replaced many times, Took vehicle to dealer to trace issue and was told no issue. I found a class action Lawsuit that describe the same issue on multiple car models including mine. My spouse is a handicapped driver and has been left stranded, leaving her in a unsafe environment. No warning signs, first occurred 2017 and several times during the years. Recent failure 08/16/2022

What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? Key ignition does not want to release once car is in park and shutdown. I have to wait 15 minutes or more until the ignition decides to release the key. How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? It is a safety issue as I can't leave my keys on the ignition and wait until someone steals it. It mostly happens during the summer time. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? Yes, the problem has been seen by an independence service center. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? My warranty is expired therefore I have not been able to get it inspected without having to pay out of pocket for it. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? No warning messages, and it started about a year ago.

Hello! I have a 2016 Subaru Legacy and have been experiencing issues with battery drain over the last 2 years. I have replaced the battery multiple times, the computer modular, and even the alternator with no solution. My safety is at risk as my wife and i both drive this vehicle and have a toddler. The persistent uncertainty on if the vehicle will start puts us at risk to be stranded and is heightened during this pandemic.

Battery is draining and needing replaced far more often than is typical. Constant corrosion build up on the battery.

Battery draining problem the requires a new battery to be installed Original batter 2016 Car would not start in February 2019 and required replacement Car would not start in January 2021 and required replacement Car would not start in December 2021 and required jumping

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Legacy. The contact stated that the battery became drained on multiple occasions. The contact stated that the battery had been replaced several times by the dealer. The computer system had been updated on the vehicle as that was the failure diagnosis however, the failure had continued. The contact stated that when she went to retrieve the vehicle from the dealer the battery was dead. The contact was advised to purchase a battery maintenance charger or to disconnect the battery cables. The contact stated that she purchased the charger and the failure still occurred if the vehicle was not plugged in for 24 hours. The manufacturer was notified, and a case was opened. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.

Mileage: 80,000

Car showed several check engine lights over the course of 6 months which originally pointed to the O2 sensors and then the alternator and then eventually ECU being an issue. Upon further inspection by a Subaru specialist after many codes relating to bank 1 sensor 2 too lean, oil was noticed in the ECU and then later in the O2 sensor. The oil was cleaned to the best of their ability and less than 24hrs later, more oil was found in the other O2 sensor. Oil seems to be traveling through the wiring harness from the engine into the electrical components. Has caused my car to mis fire at speeds as low as 25 and as high as 75 (causing jerking and unsafe driving on the interstate) and the oil is damaging lots of electrical components under the hood. My car is currently inoperable waiting for repairs on sept 15, 2021

My battery keeps dying. I just had to replace it for the second time this year. Used 2 brands, one from the dealership and the other Interstate. I had the alternator and starter checked but those are working. Something keeps killing my battery and would like it fixed. I have missed appointments and had my car towed having to pay over $600 to get it back.

Ignition key stuck in ignition. Cannot remove the key, risk of theft or child entering vehicle and turning vehicle on. Have not had it inspected, many forums online address same issue with Subaru vehicles. Subaru service bulletin 16-112-18R.

I have had to frequently replace the battery in my car. My car is a 2016, and I’ve had to put four batteries in my car since I’ve owned it. I’ve also had the wire to the alternator get so hot that it melted down the wire and the alternator, required an expensive replacement of both parts.

Battery fully discharges when vehicle sits idle for more than 2 to 3 days. Car does not start. I changed the battery twice in 6 months time and have checked alternator which is okay. Subaru insists it's due to a 'non subaru' battery. The original battery that was exchanged was a subaru battery. The discharged battery has occurred multiple times in the course of 1 1/2 years. I have not taken the vehicle back in for this issue because they cannot solve the problem and charging me for service call.

Battery discharges very quickly and also isn't able to power up the vehicle on a cold day. The original battery on my vehicle (2016 model) was replaced a year (04/2018) before I purchased the vehicle as a CPO (June 2019), but on multiple occasions after purchase I had issues with starting up the vehicle and not having the battery charging despite having it run for 45 min or longer. I finally went to a dealership when in June 2021 since I wanted the battery replaced expecting that it would be covered under the 85 month pro-rated warranty for the battery replacement in 2018. However, I was asked to pay for the battery as the previous replacement was a "good will" according to the dealership and so was not eligible for a free replacement. Just from the history of the batteries in the vehicle, I'm not convinced of the reliability or the reserve capacity of the battery especially in cold conditions.

Battery drain after 2 years. Can be inspected. Not yet confirmed by independent sources or inspected by outside party. No warning lamps, notices, or cause for battery to drain (no lights on, all doors closed, etc). First happened one day ago, jumped the battery and quickly died again.

My 2016 Subaru Legacy has a battery issue. I've had to replace it three times. Basically once a year over the past few years. It just drains and is dead. It happens mostly in the winter but not always. Subaru didn't think it was their problem. It is dangerous here in Minnesota to have a untrustworthy electrical system. Recently I did have it brought to a non Subaru shop. It had a new battery so they couldn't seem to find the problem either. I, or could get records as to my past battery purchases if need be.

I HAD TO CHANGE MY BATTERY ALREADY AS IT WOULDN'T CHARGE OR START THE CAR. TWO FUSES HAVE BEEN REPLACED. ALSO WHILE DRIVING, THE COMPUTER DISPLAY SCREEN BLINKS, FREEZES OR HAS GONE BLANK. AT TIMES, I GET AN ALERT WHILE DRIVING THAT TELLS ME 2 OR 3 HOURS SINCE VEHICLE IGNITION. THESE EVENTS SEEM TO OCCUR ON LONG ROAD TRIPS WITH MULTIPLE SHORT STOPS FOR REFUELING. IF I STOP THE CAR AND KEEP IT OFF OF AROUND 15 MINUTES THEN RESTART THE CAR, THE SCREEN WILL BEGIN WORKING AGAIN. THE DATE ENTERED ON THIS CLAIM IS THE BATTERY CHANGE DATE.

Mileage: 80,000

BATTERY IS BEING DRAINED WHEN VEHICLE SITS. I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY 2 YEARS AGO AND IS NEEDING TO BE REPLACED AGAIN.

IN THE PROCESS OF TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE; THE CAR IS IN PARK, AND THE KEY INTERMITTENTLY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION.

THE CAR WAS STATIONARY AND OVER TIME RODENTS (MICE) CHEW ON THE ELECTRICAL WIRES HARNESS DUE TO THE ATTRACTION OF MANUFACTURING MATERIAL. MANUFACTURING MATERIAL IS A SOY BASE ELECTRICAL WRAPPING. BOTH OCCURRENCES HAPPENED AT THE SAME EXACT JUNCTION WHERE WIRING HOUSING IS ATTACHED TO THE ENGINE. EVIDENCE IS FIRST OCCURRENCE IN NOVEMBER 2021, SECOND OCCURRENCE APRIL 2021. ANTIDOTAL EVIDENCE IS THE SUBARU SERVICE DEPARTMENT EMPLOYEE STATED THAT THIS IS A USUAL OCCURRENCE FROM SUBARU CARS. BOTH REPAIRS IN LESS THAN FIVE MONTHS CHARGES ARE OVER $6000.

Mileage: 32,860

I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WHEN AFTER I PARK MY CAR AND THIS HAPPEN EVERY OTHER DAY SINCE I STARTED TO HAVE THIS ISSUE.. I HAVE TO DRIVE UP AND DOWN AND CHANGE THE PARKING MODE TO DIFFERENT OTHER MODES USING THE GEAR STICK AND SWITCH IT BACK TO PARKING MODE IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE KEY. IT TAKES ME SEVERAL ATTEMPT S OF DOING THIS TO RELEASE THE KEY FROM IGNITION.

Mileage: 33,000

VEHICLE IS STOPPED, SHIFTED INTO PARK AND PARKING BRAKE IS ENGAGED. STEERING WHEEL IS STRAIGHT. KEY IS USED TO SHUT OFF ENGINE BUT WILL NOT MOVE INTO THE LOCK POSITION AND CAN NOT BE REMOVED. OCCURRING 50% OF THE TIME. RESTARTING ENGINE AND SHIFTING THROUGH REVERSE/NEUTRAL/DRIVE BACK TO PARK HAS EVENTUALLY ALLOWED KEY REMOVAL.

Mileage: 40,600

THE 2016 SUBARU LEGACY IGNITION KEEPS JAMMING THE KEY AFTER THE DRIVER HAS STOPPED THE VEHICLE AND PLACED IT IN PARK. THE KEY REMAINS JAMMED AND BECOMES DIFFICULT FOR THE DRIVER TO REMOVE. KEEP IN MIND THE TIRES ARE STRAIGHT WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED AND THE KEY IS NOT BENT. THIS INCIDENT HAS OCCURRED SEVERAL TIMES THIS MONTH AND HAS NEVER OCCURRED PRIOR.

Mileage: 48,000

UNABLE TO REMOVE IGNITION KEY FROM STEERING COLUMN WITHOUT REPEATABLY SHIFTING CAR OUT OF AND BACK INTO PARK. DEALER CHARGES OVER $400 TO REPAIR A WELL KNOWN DEFECT WHICH WAS ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN IN MARCH 2018.

Mileage: 86,000

KEY INTERMITTENTLY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN CAR IS IN PARK AND ENGINE TURNED OFF (BUT ELECTRIC IS STILL ON SINCE KEY CANNOT BE TURNED TO "OFF"). IF LEFT UNRESOLVED, THE BATTERY WILL EVENTUALLY DIE. SUBARU HAS ACKNOWLEDGED THE ISSUE IN SERVICE BULLETIN 16-112-18R: "THIS BULLETIN ANNOUNCES A DESIGN CHANGE TO THE CVT SELECT LEVER (SHIFTER) MECHANISM IN RESPONSE TO ISOLATED CUSTOMER CONCERNS OF NOT BEING ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THE CAUSE IS CONTAMINATION OF THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH INTERNAL COMPONENTS." THIS IS A SERIOUS ENOUGH PROBLEM THAT IT REQUIRED A REDESIGN; THIS IS A SERIOUS ENOUGH PROBLEM THAT IT REQUIRES A RECALL.

Mileage: 53,000

AFTER PLACING VEHICLE IN PARK, ROUGHLY 30% OF TIMES THIS IS DONE, KEY CANNOT BE TURNED BACK FAR ENOUGH TO REMOVE IT. SO FAR THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT OUT IS TO RESTART CAR, SHIFT THROUGH ALL THE GEARS, AND PLACE IT BACK IN PARK. SOMETIMES THIS MUST BE DONE 2-3 TIMES. THIS STARTED HAPPENING AROUND 62,000 MILES. *TR

AM ABLE TO SHIFT INTO PARK AND TURN OFF THE IGNITION BUT NOT ABLE TO REMOVE KEY. IT TAKES SEVERAL TRIES TO SHIFT GEARS UNTIL ABLE TO TURN THE KEY TO RELEASE IT. THIS WAS HAPPENING FOR A WHILE AND STOPPED AND HAS STARTED DOING IT MORE CONSISTENTLY NOW. *TR

Mileage: 34,000

KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION AFTER PLACING CAR IN PARK. LITERALLY HAVE TO EITHER SLAM CAR INTO PARK OR START CAR AND IMMEDIATELY SHUT IT DOWN. PROBLEM STARTED RIGHT AFTER HITTING 60000 MILES.

Mileage: 60,000

KEY CAN NOT BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION. IT DOES NOT HELP TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL TO UNLOCK IT. SHIFTING IN AND OUT OF DRIVE/NEUTRAL/PARK SEVERAL TIMES WILL EVENTUALLY UNLOCK IT. HAS BEEN HAPPENING INTERMITTENTLY FOR ABOUT 2 MONTHS AND HAPPENS NOW EVERY TIME.

Mileage: 59,000

THE KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. PUT CAR IN PARK AND CAN NOT GET THE IGNITION CYLINDER TO TURN ALL THE BACK TO REMOVE THE KEY

Mileage: 47,000

2016 SUBARU LEGACY WILL NOT RELEASE KEY FROM IGNITION EVEN WHEN CAR IS IN PARK. WILL TAKE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS AND OFTEN REQUIRES FORCEFULLY PUTTING GEAR SHIFT IN PARK FOR THE KEY TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION. PROBLEM IS GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE AND SUBARU OF AMERICA IS CLAIMING NO RESPONSIBILITY.

Mileage: 52,000

FAILURE OF THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH RESULTING IN THE INABILITY TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN SHIFTER IS IN THE PARK POSITION.

Mileage: 50,000

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU LEGACY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY FAILED TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO SCHULTE SUBARU (7601 S MINNESOTA AVE, SIOUX FALLS, SD 57108, (605) 275-4040), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 60,000.

Mileage: 60,000

WIRES AND OTHER COMPONENTS ARE MADE OF SOY BASED MATERIALS THAT ATTRACT RODENTS SQUIRRELS CHIPMUNKS AND CATS APPARENTLY AND HAVE BEEN CHEWED; THE HARNESS WAS DESTROYED AND POTENTIAL DAMAGE TO THIS AND TO POWER STEERING LINE, EXHAUST HOSES AND OTHER WIRING AND PARTS WITH SOY EXIST. THE MANUFACTURER STATES THERE IS NO REMEDY OTHER THAN TO REPLACE WITH THE SAME MATERIALS. WE ARE CONCERNED NOT ONLY FOR FINANCIAL REASONS BUT PARTICULARLY SAFETY ISSUES. WHEN I TURNED ON THE ENGINE IN THE MORNING EVERY WARNING LIGHT ON THE DASH WAS FLASHING INCLUDING BRAKE, TRANSMISSION, OIL, AIR, ETC AND I COULD NOT DRIVE AT ALL. I HAVE SPOKEN WITH OTHERS WHO HAVE HAD ACCIDENTS OR CAR FIRES RELATED TO THIS SITUATION.

IN LESS THAN 36,000 MILES IT DEVELOPED A GRINDING NOISE THAT CAN BE FELT ABOVE 50 MPH. DEALER FOUND A PROBLEM WITH THE AUTO TRANSMISSION. IT WILL BEING REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. STRANGE, I THOUGHT SUBARU IS KNOWN FOR BETTER TRANSMISSION. IN THE SAME CAR THE CD PLAYER STOPPED WORKING AND MAKING NOISE SIMILAR TO WHAT YOU HEAR WHEN A CD IS BEING EJECTED. DEALER CHANGED IT UNDER WARRANTY. I RECEIVED A RECALL LETTER ON DCM SOFTWARE IN THE CAR & I TOOK CAR TO THE DEALER. HOWEVER, THIS RECALL IS NOT LISTED ON WEB. WHY?

Mileage: 35,500

EYE SITE SAFETY MAIN WIRING HARNESS RODENT DAMAGE HARNESS INSERTION MADE WITH SOYBEAN SO ITS MADE OF FOOD HAPPENED PARKED IN DRIVEWAY

Mileage: 10,000