2016 SUBARU OUTBACK Unknown Or Other Problems

Steering wheel controls frequently fail to work properly on the cruise control system specially the speed control. Also the exhaust system bellow has cracked. The moonroof leaks into the cabin and floor area of the passenger side. Also leaking into the A pillar on the passenger side. I only have a picture of the engine valve cover that is leaking and had to be replaced. I have video of the exhaust leak coming from the crack in the bellow pipe. Do not have video of the cruise control speed issues as I can’t take a video while driving.

Catalytic converter is cracked. This is confirmed by an independent service center. Apparently there is a recall for this issue for 2015 and 2016 Subaru Outbacks manufactured up until September 2015. My 2016 Subaru Outback has the same issue and was manufactured in April 2016. The recall should include all 2016 Subaru Outbacks, not just those manufactured in 2015.

I reached under the steering well to the foot well because it seemed that my AC was not putting out any air. I touched something and received a burn on my hand. I reached out to the SOA but was told to take it to the dealer. Then they asked me to call back and discuss further. When I called back I was told to take it to the dealer. I'm not sure I want to take it to the dealer to be charged a diagnosis fee. It seems the "kick panel" should cover this hot part to not allow access.

Horn quit working

Known battery drain likely from DCM and also they designed the alternator not to completely charge battery causing frequent dead battery without warning and for no operator error and causing frequent need to replace car batteries over the years.There was a class action lawsuit but no recall for these issues so has not been addressed properly.

Exhaust gas smells in the driver cabin and the exhaust shield and the pipe is breaking off.

There’s an open recall on an exhaust leak for similar models and years and my car needs the same work done but it’s not covered under the recall

The 8 month old battery on my 2016 Subaru Outback just died. I understand that the warranty on the DCM was extended by a year, but the dealership said that if it turned out the DCM was not defective, I would have to pay for the test ($185) . The warranty only covers having the battery recharged or replaced. If the DCM is the cause of the battery drain, than the warranty should pay for replacing the DCM, in addition to replacing the battery. Otherwise the problem will continue to reoccur. There should be a recall on the DCM!

My 2016 Subaru Outback, manufactured 23 business days after the end date of recall WUJ-95, has the same exhaust system and now the same exhaust system failure as the cars covered under the recall. My car is available for inspection. This exhaust failure poses a risk of carbon monoxide poisioning. The problem in my car was identified by an independent mechanic who works exclusively on Subarus and has seen this failure in other clients' vehicles. He referred me to Subaru for repairs and recommended I look into why I hadn't received a recall notice. I contacted Subaru, opened a case, then didn't recieve a response in the timeframe they defined. After waiting a few days, I called back to learned my case had been closed. Their customer advocacy representative responded the next week and said my car was not recalled because it was manufactured on 11/3/2015, after the end date of the recall on 9/30/2015. She also cited a lack of service history with a Subaru retailer (I offered to provide records) and being out of warranty by time and miles (I mentioned 2017-18 Foresters received warranty extensions to 15 years or 150K miles for this failure.) I asked what their escalation process is for making exceptions and was told the representative was the only customer-facing person I would be able to speak with about this and she declined to offer any assistance, but did offer a loyalty discount on a new vehicle. My car has not been inspected by anyone else. I'm willing to take it to anyone who should look at it. There were no warning lights or messages related to the issue. It was diagnosed when I took the car in for regular maintenance and it explains the more noticable smell of exhaust in the car, that I had attributed to other traffic, when I'm sitting at stop lights.

The catalytic converter on my vehicle has an air leak causing my engine light to come on and almost all features such as cruise control become disabled. There is a recall that was issued in 2020 for the exact same problem my vehicle is having and the recall covers the same year, make and model of my vehicle. I was told that my vehicle isn’t under the recall but the representative was unable to specify why. I am trying to get the part replaced as the vehicle is polluting the air and causing my vehicle to not perform as expected.

The lock on the side of the door that turns on the child lock so kids cannot open the door from the inside is stuck in the lock position and will not disengage.

Can not take the key out of ignition.

I have a vehicle built in 11/15. I had an issue with cracked pipes associated with the catalytic converter that appear to match an existing nhsta recall for vehicles built between 12/09/2013 – 9/30/2015. It appears that the previous recall was not expansive enough.

Travelling on I-95 southbound at approx. 70 mph in the right lane at least 8-10 car lengths behind another vehicle in front of me. Clear skies, 78* F, calm weather. I heard a loud, sudden noise followed by wind and what sounded like glass on my roof, thought it was fireworks or a gunshot. Pulled over to make sure my dogs are OK (all good, just spooked!) and see what happened to the car when I observed a large hole and continued cracking noise in the sunroof - glass was pushed outwards/ convex rather than concave as if an object had struck the glass from above or in front of my vehicle. Notified insurance then carefully drove home the remaining 20 or so miles, called dealership and started researching the issue. There are nearly 40 reports of spontaneous sunroof explosions on NHTSA website for Subaru Outbacks. Dealing with Subaru Corporate and a local dealership for repairs.

The child lock of right side is stuck its on on position we can't open the door from inside nd now the button is broken.

My Subaru Key is Stuck in Ignition. Two to three times a week the key can not be removed from the key switch . The vehicle will shut off, but the key remains.

Right rear door will not open from inside, child door lock will not shift although child lock not engaged. InCase of crash or fire cannot exit vehicle. confirmed by repair shop. No insurance inspection. No warning lights associated with this visible

I bought this vehicle used. I was the 2nd owner. I purchased it on the evening of August 18, 2023. On the morning of August 19, 2023, I drove the vehicle for about 45 miles. I reached my destination, got out of the car, and saw what looked like either smoke or dust from under my car. I worried it might be overheating. A bystander told me the car was on fire. I walked forward to see flames coming from the front passenger side below the grill, possibly in the axle. The fire grew aggressively despite attempts to extinguish it. When the fire department arrived within 5 minutes the car was fully engulfed. The damage is so severe that it may be impossible to determine the source and cause of the fire. The dealer and my mechanic performed inspections on the vehicle before I bought it and found everything to be in good working condition.

My key keeps getting stuck in the ignition, and forced me to have to leave the key in the car while I went in to a store, when i got back someone was in my car. I realize that this is a different type of safety issue, but it truly is a safety issue. I am having to leave my key in my car everywhere i do because it doesn't come out,, eventually it will come out randomly but not everytime I shut the car off. this should be a recall issue for Subaru's that have this problem. I have read many complaints about Subaru owners with this issue happpening to them. I am not the only one. Thank You!

Key intermittently stuck in ignition. Unable to lock car doors with key stuck in the ignition. Problem started early on occasionally and now happens nearly every other time and requires a few tries up to 10 minutes of trying to get it out. This is a known issue among my model - Service Bulletin 16-112-18R

While driving on the highway at about 60mph my 2016 Outback suddenly accelerated much faster. The only way to avoid collision with another car or cars or end up in a ditch was to drive around them. The brake did not work! After a minute or more(?) I eventually was able to stop using the brake.

Motorized power liftgate is failing (diagnosed by dealer on 7/7/23) apparently because motor is undersized or 2 motors should have instead been used/designed to deal with load. Safety issue if motor failure causes trunk not to open. Newer models have been redesigned.

I was in a parking lot at a near-complete stop. I needed to nose the car about 18 inches to move it all the way into the spot. I lightly touched the accelerator to inch the car forward, and it shot forward as if some outside force had stomped on the accelerator. The car jumped the sidewalk and slammed into the wall of the building. The car inner body bent and the car is totaled. The airbags did not inflate. The passenger in the passenger seat sustained a fractured sternum and two broken ribs from going into the seatbelt. The driver sustained a sore neck and dizziness.

THE BATTERY is completely unreliable - I have had 3 batteries since I purchased the car in 2015 - REPEATED RECURRENT DISCHARGE WITHOUT APPARENT CAUSE - SUCH AS LIGHTS LEFT ON - PARASITIC DRAIN IT SEEMS In recent research have discovered this is not a new issue and there is a class action lawsuit settlement - I did not exclude myself and somewhat now wish that I had, in order to attempt to get some buy back incentive from Subaru. Beginning in 2019 - and maybe prior though I had not recognized it as a chronic issue then - I have encountered recurrent issues of complete battery discharge after time periods ranging from 5 to 24 hours. Estimate at least 1 to 2 discharges per month requiring cable jump, and many more times when the car was very difficult to start (almost fully discharged) To minimize risk as consumer I have bought a HALO Bolt - but Subaru should be held accountable to fixing primary cause of this chronic issue for so many of us.

Summary of Electrical system issues: 1.pertaining to battery draining and 2. eyesight randomly goes out and other dash board lights flash and later goes away. As well as, 3. Windows that can not completely close at times. Details: I purchased 2016 Subaru outback - 4 cylinder in 2019 with 64,000 miles. By 2020, the car experienced random dashboard lights indicator flashing that would resolve itself (*the flashing light) in a few days. One issue was the eye sight would randomly inactivate while driving and resolve after turning off car for a half day or a day. However it happens often. Dealer Car repair shop said it could not duplicate. Besides the dash board lights issues; the passenger front window and moonroof would not go up to completely close at random times. Rendering the windows useless to use. These issues continued on and off from purchase thru to-date. The biggest issue came in 2021 & 2022, when the battery would drain. A jump of the battery seem to resolve the problem. Auto store would jump battery and show CCA and CA and Alternator output proficient for the battery. On random times the battery would have the same draining issue. I am not convinced it is a battery issue for these incidents. I believe it is related to an electrical issue for all of these issues. Risk: The components installed and advertised by the Subaru brand influenced me to purchase the vehicle over other vehicles because of its safety records and longevity of the vehicle. This is clearly a false and fraudulent marketing. The Subaru has failed to provide my confidence as a consumer of its safety record. I am extremely uncomfortable driving the vehicle more than 30 miles locally because of fear it will breakdown or I will be stranded. Even locally, I have had to purchase a AAA membership at an extra expense to ensure some means of assistance. Recently, within 2 days I have had ti use my membership for a drained battery. I am now seeing many Subaru owners make similar complaints.

I have had two incidents where my battery has died. The first time it happened I had the keys in the ignition, the car was off, while I was talking on my phone. Weird, but I was told not to do that any more. Since than I have made sure the keys were out of the ignition when sitting in the car with the ignition off. We brought a new battery then. The second happened yesterday 10-14-22. I had gone to a business to pick up items. We loaded my car. No keys in the ignition, the car was off. The door and truck were opened for maybe 10 minutes. I get back in the car to start and it’s dead, does not even try to turn over.

I have owned this vehicle since July 2016 and in Sep/Oct 2018, Nov 2020, and Sep 2022 I have had to replace my battery. So I have owned my car for just over six years and have replaced my battery three times. My garage states it should last at least 3-5 years per battery.

Car won't start, battery dead. This happened in first year (2016) I bought the car.

The rear passenger side child lock will not disengage. The child lock is engaged when the dog is in the back seat and disengaged otherwise. The lock was engaged once and will not disengage. If adults are riding in the back seat and there is an emergency, they are limited to the driver's side to exit. If the driver's side child lock mechanism fails, they will be forced to rely on someone to open the door from the outside. I feel this is a massive safety concern and could be potentially dangerous.

Windshield is very susceptible to cracking. I had a small stone hit our windshield in spring 2020 that made a huge crack in the windshield and required replacement and re-calibration of eyesight which was quite an expense. Yesterday, I was driving and a very small stone hit the windshield and again the windshield is cracked and will need replacing. I was not behind a truck or any construction vehicle and the stone was very tiny. I have never had a replace a windshield before and now this is twice in less than two years.

Experienced intermittent starting problems, with other odd warning light behaviors, including unable to turn them off to try again. I know another 2016 Outback owner that was given a new battery at no charge. I paid $203.60 for new battery on 03/02/2022

I bought this used 2016 Subaru Outback about a year and a half ago from McCords Vancouver Dealership. I've had the battery dying problem ever since I got it. I have had to call AAA for jump starts. I took the car into my mechanic because the "change warning light" had been on when I turned off the ignition the night before, and it was still blinking the next morning when I came out to start the car. He suggested that I go to Costco to get the battery replaced because it was down to only 22% efficient. They declined for several reasons. It wasn't the battery fault, it was the car! I am 92 years old and disabled. I can't get stuck on a freeway with a dead battery. I am still looking for someone to fix it. I bought this car because I assumed that a newer car would be more dependable. Boy was I wrong! I have already spent a lot of money trying to fix it. [XXX] INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

The child lock in the back passenger door is stuck .

2016 Subaru Outback (purchased new) with severe electrical problems in the form of (frequent) battery discharge/non-start. This has been a reoccurring issue since early 2017 and is still a problem, even after replacement of the previous battery. I've had the replacement battery tested on several occasions after recharging and the result has always been that the battery is in good operating order. Subsequent alternator tests show the alternator is charging within manufacturer specifications. I've performed multiple tests after fully recharging the batter on several occasions, making sure all electrical accessories have remained (off) for extended periods of time, and the battery continues to discharge. The electrical system has been tested with a professional scan tool, on multiple occasions, and has yielded no adverse results. There has never been any vehicle warning indicators activate to indicate a problem. Today (2/25/2022) I had to have my Outback jump started 3 times in route to my home 65 miles away. The car died on the road shortly after the first jump, and again after turning the car off to refuel. I looked online to see if anyone else has had similar issues and found the battery discharge/non-start issue to be widespread....and Subaru seems to have been aware of the issue as early as 2017 according to a TSB Subaru sent to all dealers alerting of a potential electrical problem, but providing no solution. This is a SAFETY ISSUE. If access to an operable car were ever needed in an emergency situation (or) a vehicle lost power while in operation causing an accident resulting in injury or death due to a documented issue Subaru was aware of, but neglected to address, would be tragic. Not only for owners of the affected automobiles, but also any other parties involved. This issue should be immediately investigated & addressed by the NHTSA. thank you.

on 2/8/22 I brought my car in for service to an independent repair shop. The service was for the 120k standard service. I had been noticing exhaust smells. They checked the exhaust and found "exhaust leak from center exhaust flange, and exhaust leave from exhaust manifold". They recommended a complete replacement of the exhaust manifold "under Subaru recall". They printed the recall for me. It is WUJ-95. Which recalls 2015-2016 outbacks for this issue. When I contacted the dealer they indicated my vehicle was not under this recall. Subaru Customer care indicated the same as did your website. Subaru said that the recall was initiated by NHTSA and that until NHTSA indicated my vehicle was included in the recall they would not repair it. My vehicle has exactly the same issue as what was found for the recall. The only thing I can assume is that my actual 2016 Subaru outback was manufactured after 9/30/15. I cannot find the exact date of manufacture so cannot tell if that is the issue. However, that actual manufacture date should not be controlling as my 2016 outback has exactly the same issue as the recall. If 2016 outbacks manufactured after 9/30/15 have this same issue they should be included in this recall. I am asking you to review this issue and include my vehicle in the recall.

My car spontaneously burst into flames after I parked it. I had left the car parked and locked in a parking lot next to a rental house and went in to prepare dinner. 20 minutes later my friends arrived at the scene and alerted us to the fact that my car was engulfed in flames. It seems that the fire originated in the engine somehow, but exactly what started it is unclear. There was no accident or collision, and no foul play. Security cameras in the area couldn't see much, but indicate that the vehicle burst into flames pretty much just after I had left it parked and locked.

I OWN A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40:MPH ON A LOCAL MAIN ROAD (CT RTE 10) THE EYESIGHT PRE-COLLISION BRAKE ASSIST SUDDENLY ACTIVATED AND CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO COMPLETELY STOP. THE BRAKES THEN RELEASED AND I WAS ABLE TO CONTINUE DRIVING. THIS IS THE SECOND INCIDENT WITH IN A MONTH THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 104,000 THERE WERE NO PRIOR WARNING LIGHTS OR ENGINE LIGHTS ON. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN INSPECTED BY THE DEALER. THIS SUDDEN STOPPING CAN CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.

Multiple instances of the battery dying after being parked for a few days. New battery did not resolve the problem and diagnostics indicate that the battery is not the problem. Unable to use vehicle when it cannot be started. Most recent incident was 1/18/2022. First occurred shortly after I purchased the vehicle.

Battery rapidly drains leaving me stranded. 4th battery that has been replaced by dealer and the same thing happens. No warning lights or low battery lights. Dies from 1 week to over nite. Remote won't even open the car. Dealer refuses to fix the battery drain and keeps saying it isthe battery that is bad but replaces with the same battery which fails ! I see where there are lawsuits against Subaru but I am not getting any help at all from corporate or dealer. Personal safety and being stranded and unreliable are my main concerns.

Windshield got a very large crack from me trying to kill a bug inside the car. Windshield is thin. I didn’t hit it that hard with my hand. Had to be replaced. The repair service tech explained that the only replacements for my model are of the same thinness as the original, and to seek the recall glass replacement should it be thicker and safer.

Key sticks in ignition and won’t release. Takes from a few attempts to several minutes of restarting the car, putting car in drive and then park, turning the wheel etc.

Incident occurred on Interstate 25 Northbound at approximately mm 190. My speed was approximately 70 mph. Weather was dry and about 70 degrees. I was in the next to left lane in 4 lanes of traffic. The moonroof on my 2016 Subaru Outback exploded violently sending glass outward into traffic. I had never heard of this phenomena so when I saw black material from the top of my car going into traffic I thought it was pieces of my roof rack. I pulled over to the shoulder to examine my car and saw a massive hole in the moonroof. Knowing that if I continued shards of glass would continue to be expelled onto the interstate I pulled the remaining pieces of glass into the interior of the car. Not that it mattered, that's where they fell anyway when I opened the moonroof. The pieces of the moonroof fell into the slots for the seatbelts, rendering the drivers side inoperable. It was a miracle that no other car was seriously impacted and that I was able to get home safely. Subaru and any other car manufacturer that is involved with this problem needs to be held accountable for the damages and remedial repairs. This problem should be addressed by the NHTSA immediately.

Unable to turn key to off position when in neutral and unable to remove key from the ignition. In order to get the key out of the ignition, the car needs to be restarted and turned back off or the gear shift needs to be pushed as hard as possible into the neutral position multiple times. With the inability to turn the car totally off and remove the key, there are multiple safety issues that can arise. Was informed that the entire select lever assembly needs to be replaced due to a known issue by Subaru. The issue was reproduced by an independent service center. No warning lamps are illuminated.

The adjustment of the passenger side side view mirror has malfunctioned. The mirror can not be adjusted properly for visibility of cars to the side of the vehicle. Only the driver-side window is operable. All other windows fail to open from the driver side control. The passenger window will no longer operate from the passenger side either. These windows would have to be broken in order to escape the vehicle in some situations (flooding). My mechanic says that this is a common problem in 2016 Subaru Outbacks. No warning lights were activated. A mirror not able to be adjusted for optimum sighting of other vehicles is surely a safety issue.

The car does not recognize that it is in park, and the key gets stuck in the ignition frequently. The only fix is to repeatedly shift in and out of the park position until the key releases (which can take anywhere from 1 minute to 10 minutes -- it seems to get worse over time). It's a safety concern for various reasons: you can't exit your car quickly in case of emergency -- you can't just leave your vehicle with the keys in the ignition (dangerous/negligent/someone could steal your car). It's also concerning that the car doesn't recognize what gear it is in. This is a widespread issue across Subaru vehicles that is documented in many online forums. The issue was confirmed by the dealership that I went to on my vehicle specifically, but they also knew the source of the problem, before they even looked at the vehicle.

For the past 6 months out key has become very hard to remove. The ignition system will not disengage and release the key. Multiple methods have been tried and sometimes are effective. Placing the car into park, then neutral, back to park and so on eventually releases the key. The service center said to play with the breaks and shifters to fix the issues. I’ve been reading of multiple problems that keep occurring with these cars.

Unable to remove key from ignition when car is parked. I am unable to leave car without threat of it being stolen. An internet search indicates this is a common problem and repair cost can be several hundred dollars

THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED IN 2017 (I PAID) FOR THIS 2016 OUTBACK. IN NOVEMBER 2020, DURING OIL CHANGE, SUBARU DEALER STATED BATTERY NEED TO BE REPLACED, I PAID AND REPLACED BATTERY. LAST WEEK, MAY 2021, DURING OIL CHANGE, SUBARU DEALER STATED THAT BATTERY "FAILED" AND THEY REPLACED THE BATTERY FOR NO CHARGE. IT APPEARS THE BATTERY IS DRAINING RAPIDLY 24/7 BECAUSE OF A LIKELY SOFT WARE PROBLEM.

I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY 4 TIMES SINCE BUYING THE CAR IN 2016. I CAN'T LET IT SIT MORE THAN 3 DAYS IF ITS COLD OUT OR THE BATTERY DIES. I HAVE TO JUMP THE BATTERIES QUITE FREQUENTLY. I CAN'T LET THE CAR SIT MORE THAN 7 DAYS IF IT IS WARM OUTSIDE. I HAVE CALLED THE DEALERSHIP TWICE AND THEY HAVE TOLD ME THIS IS NORMAL. I ASKED WHAT COULD BE CONSTANTLY DRAINING THE BATTERIES. I HAD THOUGHT THE CAR WAS A LEMMON WHEN I FIRST BOUGHT IT. THE BATTERY PROBLEM HAS BEEN ONGOING SINCE I BOUGHT IT. IT WAS A BRAND NEW CAR.

THE CAR WAS PARKED IN THE GARAGE AND IT WAS ABOVE FREEZING. NONE OF THE LIGHTS HAD BEEN LEFT ON/DOORS OPEN... THE CAR DOESN'T HAVE A FOB KEPT TOO CLOSE... THE CAR WOULDN'T START. THIS ISN'T THE FIRST TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED AND WE'RE NOT SURE IF IT'S A BATTERY, ALTERNATOR, ELECTRICAL ISSUE OR WHAT. WE'VE HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED ONCE ALREADY. IT FIRST HAPPENED WITHIN A WEEK OF PURCHASING THE CAR IN 2017 IN THE SUMMER TIME, AND HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES SINCE WITHOUT EXCESSIVE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS IN USE.

Mileage: 40,000

BATTERY DRAINS AFTER THE CAR SITS FOR A FEW DAYS. I HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED LAST YEAR, AND HAD THE NEW BATTERY CHECKED RECENTLY AT THE DEALER. THEY (DEALER) SAID IT WAS FINE AND SAW NO PARASITIC DRAIN. THEY TOLD ME I SHOULD DRIVE THE CAR EVERY DAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY CHARGED, WHICH I FIND TO BE VERY ODD AND EXTREMELY INCONVENIENT. I ALSO OWN A 2020 SUBARU ASCENT AND DON'T HAVE TO DRIVE IT EVERY DAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY HEALTHY. THE CAR SAT FOR ONE WEEK RECENTLY AND THE BATTERY DRAINED AGAIN. I JUMPED IT YESTERDAY IT AND DROVE IT FOR 30 MINUTES AND TODAY THE BATTERY IS DEAD AGAIN.

Mileage: 60,000

BATTERY OFTEN GOES DEAD. HAVE REPLACED BATTERY 3 OR 4 TIMES SINCE WE PURCHASED IN NOVEMBER 2015. BATTERY DIED IN GARAGE AND IN PARKING LOT.

Mileage: 100,000

THE IGNITION KEY DOESN'T COME OUT WHEN IN PARK. THE GEARS CAN MANUALLY SLIP WHILE IN PARK (WHILE MOVING THE GEAR SHAFT). IT'S LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T RECOGNIZE THE GEAR 'PARK', WHILE ALSO THE KEY GETS STUCK AND WILL NOT COME OUT. THIS HAPPENS NUMEROUS TIMES A DAY.

Mileage: 40,000

KEY GETS STUCK ON IGNITION SWITCH WHEN I TURN CAR OFF AND PUT IT IN PARK. KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. IT TAKES SEVERAL MINUTES, SOME TIMES UP TO 20 MINUTES FOR THE KEY TO RELEASE FROM THE COLUMN. VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE STARTED AND TURNED OFF SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE KEY RELEASES. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A FEW WEEKS NOW, VERY FRUSTRATING AND DANGEROUS AS HAVING TO START AND STOP THE VEHICLE HAS DRAINED THE BATTERY TWICE NOW AND I HAVE HAD TO GET THE VEHICLE JUMP STARTED. HOPEFULLY THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN IN THE MIDDLE OF NO WHERE.....

KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN PARKED AFTER DRIVING. REQUIRES MULTIPLE SHIFTING FROM PARK TO DRIVE AND BACK TO PARK BEFORE KEY WILL RELEASE. FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE IS NOW EVERY OTHER DAY. VEHICLE HAS 48,500 MILES ON IT CURRENTLY.

Mileage: 48,500

MULTIPLE CRACKED WINDSHIELDS UNEXPLAINED. CRACKED UNDER MINIMAL STRESS IN HEAT AND COLD WHILE IN MOTION. INSURANCE DID NOT COVER DEDUCTIBLES OR ALTERNATE TRANSPORTATION DURING REPAIRS

MULTIPLE CRACKED WINDSHIELDS UNEXPLAINED. WINDSHIELDS CRACKED WITH MINIMAL STRESS MOSTLY WHILE IN MOTION AT LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS.

BATTERY HAS DIED TWICE IN THE LAST 5 MONTHS WHEN NOTHING WAS LEFT ON AND THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK. IT CONTINUES TO DRAIN EVEN WHEN WE REPLACED WITH A HIGH LEVEL BATTERY

Mileage: 25,000

WINDSHIELDS KEEPS CRACKING. REPAIRS ARE EXPENSIVE BECAUSE OF EYESIGHT CALIBRATION. WINDSHIELD CRACKED SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE IN EARLY 2018, REPAIRED IT IMMEDIATELY, THEN CRACKED AGAIN WITHIN 2 OR 3 MONTHS. CRACK BOTH TIMES SPREAD MORE THAN 6 INCHES IN LESS THAN AN HOUR.

Mileage: 25,000

WITHOUT WARNING THE SUNROOF GLASS SPONTANEOUSLY EXPLODED WHILE DRIVING 40 MILES PER HOUR

Mileage: 51,000

WHEN YOU SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF THEY KEY GETS STUCK IN ACCESSORY MODE AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. PROBLEM OCCURS INTERMITTENTLY.

Mileage: 126,000

SINCE PURCHASING VEHICLE ON 6/16/2016 WE HAVE HAD A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW ENGAGING THE AUTO-REVERSING (ANTI-ENTRAPMENT) FEATURE CAUSING AN INABILITY TO CLOSE WINDOW. WE HAVE MENTIONED THIS ISSUE TO DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES SOMETIMES DOCUMENTED, SOMETIMES NOT. THEY RESET SWITCH, ONLY FOR THE PROBLEM TO RETURN. ON OUR LAST VISIT6/31/2020 WE WERE TOLD THERE WAS A TSB (12-272-19R) BUT WE WOULD BE CHARGED $276.22 FOR THE REPAIR. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE COVERED. WE ALSO PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR $2547.00 GOOD UNTIL 6/16/2026 OR 126000 MILES AND WERE TURNED DOWN ON COVERAGE FROM THEM AS WELL.

MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK ALL OF SUDDEN HAD WARNING LIGHTS SUCH AS: BRAKE, ABS, AND STABILITY TRACTION CONTROL POPPED UP ON THE DASHBOARD WHEN THE CAR WAS IN PARK ANS WHEN I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WILL NOT GO AWAY. IT HAS MADE MY STEERING WHEEL REALLY HARD TO TURN.

Mileage: 75,495

THE CAR IS STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENS. THE IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF. BESIDES BEING ANNOYING, THIS PREVENTS THE CAR FROM BEING LOCKED THUS INTRODUCES A THEFT RISK. EVENTUALLY, WE ARE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY BUT THERE IS NO CONSISTENT METHOD OF DOING SO. IT'S A MATTER OF TIME AND MESSING WITH TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF, MOVING THE SHIFTER, JIGGLING THE KEY, OR MOVING THE STEERING WHEEL BEFORE IT COMES OUT. GOOGLE INDICATES THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH SUBARUS SO I DON'T KNOW WHY THERE IS NOT A RECALL. THIS HAPPENS SPORADICALLY AND HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR THE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS.

Mileage: 85,000

SOMETIMES THE KEY WON'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I TRY TO TURN THE CAR OFF (EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS IN PARK). BASED ON WHAT I'VE READ, THIS IS A DEFECT WITH A SENSOR NOT RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. I THINK THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL FOR THIS PARTICULAR DEFECT. I BELIEVE THE SERVICE BULLETIN THAT ADDRESSES THIS DEFECT IS TSB NUMBER 16-112-18R.

Mileage: 30,000

WE WERE DRIVING ON I5 NORTH THROUGH WASHINGTON ON A ROADTRIP (GOING ~65MPH), ABOUT TO ENTER A THUNDERSTORM, AND OUR MOONROOF UNEXPECTEDLY SHATTERED, MAKING AN EXPLOSION SOUND. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS HURT AND WE WERE ABLE TO GO TO A NEARBY FORD DEALERSHIP TO HELP US PATCH THE CAR SO WE COULD MAKE OUR 2+ HOUR DRIVE HOME, BUT IT WAS ABSOLUTELY TERRIFYING. AFTER FURTHER RESEARCH, WE THINK IT'S IN RELATION TO THE PRESSURE DIFFERENCE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE CAR. THERE WAS LITTLE GLASS IN THE CAR, MAKING IT SEEM AS IF THE EXPLOSION WAS COMING FROM INSIDE. NO ROCK OR DEBRIS HITTING THE CAR WAS NOTICED. HERE'S MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE ISSUE FROM AN ARTICLE LAST YEAR THAT REFERENCED NHTSA: HTTPS://WWW.KGW.COM/ARTICLE/NEWS/LOCAL/MY-SUNROOF-EXPLODED-GOVERNMENT-INVESTIGATING-EXPLODING-SUNROOFS/283-C529D7E5-F2C4-488E-AE34-96F781AD5466.

Mileage: 60,000

MY 2016 OUTBACK'S HORN STOPPED WORKING. OVER A YEAR AGO, IT STARTED WORKING ONLY WHEN I WAS TURNING THE WHEEL, THEN EVENTUALLY IN JULY 2019, IT STOPPED WORKING ALL TOGETHER. IT IS MOSTLY AN ANNOYANCE, BUT I CAN'T USE IT TO WARN OTHERS. I CALLED AN TOLD MY DEALER'S SERVICE DEPT, BUT THEY NEVER GOT BACK TO ME. LATER ON, I TALKED TO THEM, BUT WAS TOLD THEY WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING BECAUSE MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY. THEY DO KNOW THE PART ON IT THAT "GOES". I THOUGHT THAT IF I GOT AN EXPENSIVE MILEAGE CHECK UP SERVICE THAT THEY WOULD FEEL BADLY THAT THEY KNOW THEY HAVE A "PART THAT GOES" AND FIX IT, BUT THEY DIDN'T OFFER TO DO ANYTHING. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT SINCE THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT PART "WENT" WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT THE CAR, THEY HAD A BADLY MADE PART. I HAVE A HISTORY OF DRIVING CARS UNTIL THEY ARE OVER 20 YEARS OLD AND CAN HIT 200 MILES ON A CAR AND I NEVER HAD A HARD JUST STOP WORKING AND DON'T THINK THIS SHOULD HAPPEN. I DO NOT WANT TO PAY SUBARU TO FIX THIS SINCE THEY KNOW THEIR PART GOES WRONG AND IS A SAFETY ISSUE. I AM NOT CONFIDENT THAT A NON-SUBARU MECHANIC WILL KNOW EXACTLY WHAT TO DO, THOUGH SINCE OUTSIDE MECHANICS WON'T BE FAMILIAR WITH THIS ISSUE.

Mileage: 50,000

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION WHEN PARKED AND TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE. KEY TURNS, BUT NOT TO THE POINT WHERE IT REACHES THE POSITION OF REMOVAL. IT OFTEN TAKES SEVERAL STARTS AND TURN OFF'S TO ACHIEVE REMOVAL OF THE KEY. OFTEN REQUIRES VERY FIRM FORCES OF THE SHIFT LEVER IN THE PARK POSITION TO ACHIEVE RELEASE OF THE KEY. *TR

Mileage: 62,000

HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY. WHEN YOU PULL INTO A PARKING SPOT AND PUT THE CAR IN PARK, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY OFF AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. SUBARU DEALER DIAGNOSED IT AS 'FAULTY SHIFTER ASSEMBLY'. THIS WOULD BE FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS NO WORK HAS BEEN DONE IN THOSE AREAS OF THE CAR SINCE PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM SUBARU DEALERSHIP IN 2016. CAUSES THE KEY TO BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND UNABLE TO REMOVE WHEN PUT IN PARK. *TR

Mileage: 68,000

THE STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM IN THE OUTBACK AFFECTS IPHONE MAPPING WHEN CONNECTED TO THE CAR'S USB SLOTS. THE MAPS GO HAYWIRE, ALWAYS POINTING THE WRONG DIRECCION, REROUTING CONSISTENTLY, RESULTING IN VERY DANGEROUS ROUTING. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN PRESENT SINCE DAY ONE. I HAD TO STOP CONNECTING THE IPHONE TO THE USB SLOTS WHEN DRIVING SO I CAN USE APPS LIKE GOOGLE MAPS AND APPLE MAPS. THIS IS A KNOW ISSUE WITH THE FIRST GENERATION OF STARLINK INFOTAINMENT. IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I CONNECT THE IPHONE TO THE OUTBACK AND NOT TO ANY OTHER MODEL. *TR

Mileage: 500

THE BATTERY ON OUR 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK KEEPS DISCHARGING AND CAR WON'T START. IT IS IN THE GARAGE. DROVE IT TO THE STORE YESTERDAY. BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY 4 MONTHS AGO, HAS HAPPENED 5 TIMES IN 6 MONTHS.

Mileage: 33,500

BATTERY RUNS DOWN OFTEN. I'VE HAD THE BATTERY CHECKED MULTIPLE TIMES AND NO PROBLEM WITH THE ALTERNATOR EITHER. I KNOW IT WILL RUN DOWN DURING LOADING OR UNLOADING THAT LASTS MORE THAN 30 MINUTES, SO I MANAGE THAT SITUATION. BUT IT IS STARTING TO RUN DOWN MORE OFTEN WHILE PARKED. THIS HAS LEFT ME STRANDED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST 6 MONTHS.

Mileage: 50,000

CAN NOT REMOVE KEY WHEN IN PARK!! LEAVES ME STRANDED..HAVE TO KEEP TRYING VARIOUS METHODS TO TURN CAR OFF AND REMOVE KEY!! THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.. HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS AS WELL ON LINE.

Mileage: 15,830

CRACKED WINDSHIELD. STARTING @ BOTTOM CENTER UP 8" THEN 6" TO RIGHT.

Mileage: 58,000

WHEN PUTTING AUTO INTO PARK, KEY WILL NOT TURN FAR ENOUGH TO ALLOW KEY TO COME OUT. HAVE TO RESTART CAR , SHIFT INTO OTHER GEARS AND RETURN TO PARK UNTIL THE KEY WILL COME OUT. I HAVE ANOTHER EXACT YEAR AND MODEL VEHICLE WHICH HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND IT WAS REPAIRED ABOUT 1 1/2 YEARS AGO. VEHICLE STATIONARY.

Mileage: 50,000

MY 2016 OUTBACK WILL HAVE A "GHOST SLIDE" WHEN ON ICE. IT SEEMS TO BE WORSE WHEN THE ROADS ARE ONLY PARTIALLY ICY. THE BACK END FEELS LIKE IT WILL SLIP OUT AND THE CAR WILL FEEL LIKE IT IS LOSING CONTROL. THIS IS MY 3RD SUBARU AND THE ONLY ONE WE HAVE HAD ISSUES WITH. I HAVE HAD IT INTO A SHOP (NOT A SUBARU DEALER) AND THEY CANNOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. I CALLED SUBARU AND THEY TOLD ME I HAVE ICE BUILD UP! THAT IS NOT IT! I CALLED THEM AGAIN THIS WEEK AND THEY SAID THEY DON'T HAVE A RECALL NOTICE FOR MY ISSUE. THIS CAR IS GREAT FOR SAFETY AND DRIVING 95% OF THE TIME SO IT IS DANGEROUS TO HIT A PATCH OF ICE AND HAVE IT SLIDE. IT IS REALLY BAD WHEN THEY ROADS HAVE STARTED TO MELT AND YOU HAVE PARTIAL PAVEMENT AND PARTIAL ICE. I PUT THE DATE DOWN OF THE LAST OCCURRENCE BUT IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR 4 WINTERS.

Mileage: 5,000

MY CAR HAS 55,000 MILES. RECENTLY, I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION. I AM ABLE TO STOP THE ENGINE BUT I AM NOT ABLE TO TURN OFF ALL THE ELECTRONICS. I HAVE TO STOP AND START, BACK UP OR PULL FORWARD (WHICH I AM NOT ALWAYS ABLE TO DO) THE CAR A NUMBER OF TIMES TO GET THE KEY TO COME OUT. MY DAUGHTER ALSO HAS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. SHE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AT ABOUT THE SAME MILEAGE, HAD THE IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED FOR $600.00 AND IS NOW HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN 1 YEAR LATER. THIS PROBLEM IS COMMON ENOUGH THAT SUBARU PUT A TECHNICAL REPAIR BULLETIN OUT ON IT TSB #16-12-18R BUT HAS NOT DONE A RECALL.

Mileage: 55,000

I CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND TURNING IT OFF (IT WON'T TURN ALL THE WAY TO THE OFF POSITION). RESTARTING THE CAR AND TURNING IT OFF AGAIN FREQUENTLY DOESN'T HELP.

DRIVING TO WORK ON THE HIGHWAY AND THE WINDSHIELD JUST POPPED AND CRACKED. LITTLE SHARDS OF GLASS FLEW ONTO THE DASHBOARD. HAPPENED UNDER THE DRIVERS SIDE WIPER.

Mileage: 45,000

NOTICING WHEN I PARK MY CAR THE KEY WON'T RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN CAR LEVER IS SET IN "P" POSITION. AS I PUSH IN AND TURN THE KEY FROM START TO LOCK THE KEY WILL STAY ACC POSITION WON'T GO INTO LOCK.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. SENSOR IN STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. MUST "SLAM" THE SHIFTER INTO PARK IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY.

Mileage: 50,000

ABOUT ONCE A WEEK FOR AT LEAST THE PAST YEAR, THE STARLINK SCREEN FREEZES IN EITHER A BLANK SCREEN OR THE SCREEN GIVING CHOICES BETWEEN CD, FM, ETC. MUSIC WILL PLAY BUT NONE OF THE BUTTONS WILL WORK. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT IF I HOLD DOWN THE ON/OFF BUTTON FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS OR SO, IT WILL BEEP AND GO BACK TO NORMAL. IT HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST TURNED ON AND IS STATIONARY.

Mileage: 65,000

THE FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW DOES NOT ALWAYS FULLY CLOSE. SOMETIMES WHEN I'M CLOSING IT, THE WINDOW GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP AND THEN GOES DOWN ABOUT HALFWAY AND STAYS THERE. THE ONLY WAY I AM ABLE TO GET IT MOSTLY CLOSED IS WHEN I AM AT A STOP, I HAVE ONE HAND ON THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND THE OTHER ON THE WINDOW CLOSE BUTTON. I HOLD DOWN THE CLOSE BUTTON UNTIL THE WINDOW IS ALMOST ALL OF THE WAY UP AND THEN HIT THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON SO THAT THE WINDOW REMAINS SHUT MOST OF THE WAY. BY THE TIME I RESTART THE CAR, I UNLOCK THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND AM ABLE TO CLOSE THE WINDOW NORMALLY. THE WINDOW NOT CLOSING OCCURS AT A STOP OR WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING.

Mileage: 40,000

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION UPON PARKING THE CAR. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY (IN PARKING POSITION).

Mileage: 51,052

KEY INTERMITTENTLY DOES NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PARKED. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUED BY SUBARU. THIS CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE. WHY HAS A RECALL NOT BEEN ISSUED FOR THIS?

Mileage: 35,800

MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION, WHILE IN PARK. STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT LOCK. TOOK TO THE DEALER. I KNOW THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH SOME OF THE FORRESTERS AND I LOOKED ONLINE APPARENTLY OTHER 2016 & 2017 MODEL SUBARUS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE. I SEE A SERVICE BULLETIN 16 112 18R, BUT IT DOES NOT COVER MY VEHICLE.

ON MY WAY TO WORK I HEARD A LOUD POP! LIKE A ROCK HIT MY WINDSHIELD. NEVER SAW A PIT OR ANY EVIDENCE. PULLED OUT OF THE GARAGE THERE WAS A CRACK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF PASSENGER SIDE UP THE WINDOW. NOW THE CRACK HAS SPREAD OUT LIKE NOTHING I HAVE EVER SEEN.

Mileage: 22,000

DRIVER IS UNABLE TO TURN KEY BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION AND REMOVE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS STATIONARY. CAR (SUBARU OUTBACK 2016) WAS PLACED IN PARK PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO TURN OFF THE ENGINE. DRIVER MUST FORCEFULLY MOVE STICK TO PARKED POSITION, FIRMLY PUSH KEY IN, AND TURN SWIFTLY TO REMOVE KEY. DRIVER MAY HAVE TO ATTEMPT THIS MANEUVER FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE SUCCESSFULLY REMOVING KEY. FAULTY COMPONENT IS UNKNOWN BUT IS OFTEN THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH BASED ON TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 16-112-18R. AT TIME OF WRITING THIS COMPLAINT, THE DRIVER HAS EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE AT LEAST 10 TIMES OVER THE COURSE OF 2 WEEKS.

Mileage: 49,500

UNABLE TO REMOVE IGNITION KEY FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. VEHICLE IS PUT INTO PARK, KEY IS TURNED OFF, KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY AND STOPS AT THE ACCESSORY POINT. HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR THE PAST MONTH, SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE. MOVE THE SHIFTER BACK AND FORTH FROM PARK INTO GEAR AND BACK INTO PARK UNTIL THE KEY RELEASES.

Mileage: 45,000

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS WHILE PARKED FOR ONLY A FEW HOURS. THE BATTERY VOLTAGE HAS DROPPED TO A LEVEL THAT REQUIRED THE VEHICLE TO BE JUMP STARTED. THE VEHICLE HAS NO AFTERMARKET DEVICES.

Mileage: 10

SHIFTER ASSEMBLY PROBLEM. LESS THAN 50000 MILES ON CAR AND CAR WON'T SHIFT INTO PARK! READING OTHER COMPLAINTS OF SAME PROBLEM SEEMS LIKE IT'S A DEFAULT ASSEMBLY! *TR

Mileage: 47,000

THIS IS THE FOURTH WINDSHIELD TO CRACK ON US IN AN OUTBACK. THE FIRST TWO WINDSHIELDS CRACKED IN A 2015 OUTBACK. SUBARU HAD TO BUY BACK THAT CAR DUE TO AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED WINDSHIELD THAT FLOODED THE CAR. THEY GAVE US 2016 OUTBACK IN ITS PLACE. GUESS WHAT, THE 2016 OUTBACK WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED TWICE. THE FIRST CRACK WAS SEVERAL MONTHS AFTER ITS PURCHASE AND OCCURRED SPONTANEOUSLY WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALERSHIP CLAIMED A PEBBLE HIT BECAUSE THEY COULD SEE A CHIP. THIS IS DESPITE THE FACT THAT A PEBBLE NEVER TOUCHED THE CAR. OVER THE NEXT FEW DAYS THE CRACK SPREAD ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. SUBARU REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD. WELL, THE NEW WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED AGAIN. THEY ARE ALSO CLAIMING IT IS DUE TO A PEBBLE AND ARE REFUSING TO REPLACE IT THIS TIME. THEY ARE CLAIMING IT IS NOT IN THE LOCATION THAT THEIR MEMO STATES IS PART OF THE EXTENDED WINDOW WARRANTY. THERE ARE MAJOR ISSUES WITH THE WINDSHIELDS ON THE 2015 AND 2016 OUTBACKS. FOUR CRACKED WINDSHIELDS FROM WHAT THEY CLAIM ARE "PEBBLES" IS WRONG. ESPECIALLY WHEN TWO OF THE CRACKS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR WASN'T EVEN MOVING AND WAS PARKED. SUBARU KNOWS THERE ARE PROBLEMS AND THEY ONLY EXTENDED THE WINDSHIELD WARRANTY IF THE CRACK IS THROUGH THE AREA OF THE BASE OF THE WINDOW. BUT THEY ARE WELL AWARE THAT THE CRACKS ARE HAPPENING IN OTHER PLACES AND ARE REFUSING TO RECTIFY THE SITUATION. THERE ARE SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUES NOT BEING ADDRESSED. AND THE SOLUTION IS TO GET THE COSTUMER TO JUST CONTINUE TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELDS AT THEIR OWN COST.

Mileage: 40,000

WITH CAR STATIONARY, ENGINE OFF AND CAR IN PARK, KEYED IGNITION WILL NOT TURN TO LOCK POSITION OR RELEASE KEY. THIS HAS HAPPENED REPEATEDLY FOR TWO WEEKS, OFTEN MORE THAN ONCE A DAY, FROM 3/10/2019 AND CONTINUING THROUGH YESTERDAY, THE LAST TIME THE CAR WAS DRIVEN.

Mileage: 29,000

FEBRUARY 28, 2019. CRACKING FRONT WINDSHIELD AT THE DE-ICER / DEFROSTER AREA. THIS WAS NOT FROM ROADWAY ROCK CHIPPING. VEHICLE WAS ON DRIVEWAY WARMING UP AND DEFROSTING. AFTER, NOW FIVE DAYS THE CRACK HAS SPREAD COMPLETELY ACROSS THE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD.

I HAD AN ACCIDENT @ 5PM-ENTERING A BUSY ROAD FROM A DRIVEWAY-HIT THE SIDE DOOR OF A CAR RACING LEFTTORIGHT IN FRONT OF ME. MY FAULT OF COURSE. I HEARD NO BEEP WARNING FROM THE SO-CALLED COLLISION MITIGATION SYSEM (?), NOR DID I FEEL ANY BRAKING. SUBSEQUENTLY I TESTED THIS FEATURE IN MY DRIVEWAY WHERE I SLOWLY DROVE THE CAR FORWARD TOWARD MY LARGE GARAGE, I WOULD HAVE HIT THE GARAGE-NO BEEP-NO BRAKING. THEN, IN A SNOW STORM, I HAD TO BRAKE SOASTO NOT HIT A LARGE TRUCK SKIDDING IN FRONT OF ME. I MISSED HITTING HIM BY INCHES. AGAIN, I HEARD NO BEEP AND FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER TESTED THIS FEATURE ON MY CAR BY LETTING IT GO TOWARDS BRUSHES IN A CARWASH, I HEARD BEEP WARNING, BUT AGAIN FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER SAID SYSTEM IS WORKING PROPERLY. AND SO-I CONCLUDE THAT WHENEVER I HEAR ANY KIND OF WARNING BEEO, I SHOULD MANUALLY AND QUICKLY 'HIT THE BRAKES', NO MATTER WHAT. AFTER ALL, I HAVE TO KEEP MY EYES ON THE ROAD FOR GOD'S SAKE. I AM NOT HAPPY.

Mileage: 5,000

KEY IS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN CAR IT TURNED OFF AND WILL NOT COME OUT. DRIVER HAS TO SLAM THE GEAR SHIFT INTO PARK TO GET IT TO RELEASE MULTIPLE TIMES. SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM BASED ON INTERNET RESEARCH

Mileage: 54,000

KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY REGARDLESS OF PUSHING, TURNING, PUTTING PARKING BREAK ON, PARKING BREAK OFF. HAVE BEEN STUCK WITH ROAD SIDE ASSISTANCE FOUR TIMES THIS BLACK FRIDAY WEEKEND. SO WRONG. READ SEVERAL OTHER COMPLAINTS CONCERNING THIS ISSUE AND STEERING WHEEL ISSUES. SUBARU SHOULD RECALL THE 2016 OUTBACK PREZ 2.5I AND PREMIUM 2.5I. DUDS FOR IGNITIONS. SAFETY ISSUE WHILE TRAVELING AND SAFETY ISSUE IF CAR CAN'T BE LEFT UNATTENDED. HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL MONDAY MORNING TO SEE IF I CAN GET AN APPOINTMENT TO GET IT FIXED SO I CAN MAKE IT HOME SAFELY AND GET THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I GET THERE. LOVE SCOOBY BUT THIS SERIOUSLY STINKS.

WINDSHIELD. WINDSHIELD HAS SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED ON THE PASSENGER EDGE TWICE. NOV 2017 I WAS TOLD THE SMALLEST PEBBLES CAUSED THE PIN HOLE WHICH MADE MY WINDSHIELD CRACK. NOVEMBER 2018 WE EXPERIENCED LOW 30 TEMPS AND WHEN THE TEMPS RAISED BACK TO 50S MY WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED AGAIN. IN THE EXACT SAME SPOT. ONCE AGAIN DEALERSHIP IS CLAIMING A SMALL PEBBLE HAS CAUSED THIS DAMAGE. I CAN'T BUY THAT A PEBBLE WOULD HIT THE EXACT SAME SPOT AND CAUSE THE WINDSHIELD TO CRACK THE EXACT SAME WAY TWICE. I HAVE BEEN RESEARCHING THIS ISSUE AND IT SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM AMONG OUTBACKS OF THIS YEAR.

Mileage: 32,000

THERE WAS A PROBLEM REMOVING THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY SAID THERE WAS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY.

Mileage: 36,000

WINDSHIELD CRACKED FOR NO REASON DURING WARM SUMMER DAY. I HAVE SEEN OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON LINE. IT IS IN THE SAME LEFT CORNER AREA AND STARTS AS A SMALL CIRCULAR INDENTATION AND GROWS WITHIN HOURS. NOTHING HIT OR CAME INTO CONTACT WITH WINDSHIELD

Mileage: 33,000

I HAD A MAJOR ISSUE WITH THIS VEHICLE ON JUNE 24. WE WERE DRIVING BACK FROM OUR FAMILY VACATION WHEN I WAS PASSING A SEMI TRUCK ON A TWO LANE ROAD THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY LOST POWER TO THE WHEELS AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. AS I STEPPED ON THE GAS THE ENGINE REVVED UP BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT ACCELERATING. I THOUGHT IT SLIPPED OUT OF GEAR. I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL THEN BACK INTO DRIVE AND STILL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I PUT MY FLASHERS ON TO ALERT THE TRUCK THAT I WAS HAVING ISSUES. I PULLED ONTO THE SHOULDER AND HE PASSED ME. I NOTICED THE TACHOMETER READ BETWEEN THE 3 AND 4 MARK WHEN I PUT MY FOOT ON THE ACCELERATOR TRYING TO SPEED UP. HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE DID NOT SPEED UP AT ALL. I WAS ABLE TO PULL OFF THE ROAD ONTO A TURNOUT AREA. THE PASSENGER IN THE FRONT SEAT ASKED IF ANY WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. NO LIGHTS OF ANY SORT CAME ON. THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE WAS IN THE NORMAL OPERATING RANGE. AFTER THE CAR STOPPED I TURNED OFF THE IGNITION AND OPENED MY DOOR AND NOTICED FLAMES COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR. I IMMEDIATELY INSTRUCTED THE OTHER THREE (3) PASSENGERS TO IMMEDIATELY EXIT THE CAR BECAUSE OF THE FLAMES. LUCKILY WE WERE ABLE TO EXIT THE VEHICLE AND GET A SAFE DISTANCE AWAY TO CALL 911 FOR ASSISTANCE. UNFORTUNATELY THE FIRE CONTINUED TO BURN AND ENGULFED THE CAR. BLACK SMOKE STARTED TO APPEAR. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT SHOWED UP AND EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE. WE WATCHED HELPLESSLY WHILE OUR CAR AND POSSESSIONS WENT UP IN SMOKE. WE CONTACTED SUBARU AND FILED A COMPLIANT. THEY TOOK THEIR TIME AND EVENTUALLY SENT THEIR QA TEAM TO INSPECT WHAT WAS LEFT OF THE VEHICLE. THEY FINALLY SENT US AN EMAIL STATING THEY COULD NOT FIND THE ROOT CAUSE OF THE FIRE BECAUSE THE FIRE DAMAGE WAS TOO INTENSE. WE BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE NEW JUST TWO YEARS PRIOR AND IT ONLY HAD ABOUT 30K MILES AND HAD ALL THE FACTORY RECOMMENDED SERVICES AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE VEHICLE IS UNDER WARRANTY.

Mileage: 31,000

I HAD EXPERIENCED A SHUDDER, POP, REVVING RPMS OF THE VEHICLES BEFORE A SUDDEN POWER LOSS AT HIGHWAY SPEED (65MPH). I WAS UNABLE TO ACCELERATE AND HAD LIMITED STEERING TO GET OFF THE HIGHWAY SAFELY. THE VEHICLE HAD STALLED BY THE TIME I WAS ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. I WAS THEN UNABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. A TOWING SERVICE WAS CALLED TO BRING IT TO A LOCAL DEALERSHIP. WITHIN AN HOUR TIME PERIOD THE VEHICLE RAPIDLY LOST ELECTRICAL POWER AND HAZARD LIGHTS WERE NO LONGER FUNCTIONAL. THIS UNFORTUNATELY WAS LATE AT NIGHTTIME, MAKING THE VISIBILITY OF THE VEHICLE VERY MINIMAL. THE VEHICLE WAS EVALUATED AT A LOCAL DEALERSHIP AND REPORTED THAT THERE WAS A SOFTWARE PROBLEM WITH THE CHARGING SYSTEMS OF THE CAR. THE SYSTEM WAS UPDATED, BUT THE DEALERSHIP COULD NOT PROVIDE AN EXPLANATION FOR THE REVVING ENGINE, SHUDDERING, POWER LOSS AND STALLING THAT OCCURRED PRIOR TO THE INABILITY TO RESTART THE VEHICLE ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.

Mileage: 35,042

THE KEYS BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHEN ATTEMPTING TO PARK THE CAR. UNABLE TO REMOVE. ALSO UNABLE TO TURN OFF THE CAR FULLY. SOMETIMES REPARKING MULTIPLE TIMES HELPS.

Mileage: 55,000

RADIO FREEZES OFTEN, WEEK AGO DEALER PUT NEW FIRMWARE BUT LOOKS LIKE IT DID NOT HELP. ANOTHER PROBLEM I HAVE FOR ABOUT 10 DAYS (SINCE MY LAST VISIT TO SUBARU SERVICE) MY IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK AND I CAN'T TAKE IT OUT FOR GOOD 15-20 SECONDS. AFTER PLAYING WITH IT RELEASES AND I'M ABLE TO TAKI IT OUT.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT REASON.

Mileage: 40,000

THE KEY KEEPS GETTING STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN I PARK THE CAR AND TRY TO TAKE IT OFF. I PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND THE KEY DOESN'T WANT TO COME OUT. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME SEVERAL TIMES. IT'S LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T REALIZE THAT IT'S IN PARK ALREADY. NOT SURE IF THE PROBLEM WITH THE SHIFTER ASSY. THIS POSES A SAFETY PROBLEM IF ONE IS AT THE WRONG PLACE AT THE WRONG TIME AND FORCED TO LEAVE KEY IN IGNITION.

Mileage: 33,100

I HAVE LEARNED BECAUSE MY WIFES CAR IS ALSO A 2016 SUBARU THAT SOY BASED MATERIALS HAVE BEEN USED IN WIRING AND HOSES OF MY OUTBACK CREATING A DANGEROUS SITUATION SINCE RODENTS AND SQUIRRELS ARE ATTRACTED TO THIS PRODUCT AND WILL CHEW ON THEM THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT PROVIDED A REPLACEMENT TO THE SOY PRODUCTS SO THIS IS A LONG TERM SAFETY CONCERN THAT NEEDS TO BE RECTIFIED. WE HAVE ALREADY INCURRED DANGEROUS AND COSTLY DAMAGE TO ONE SUBARU AND ARE CONCERNED IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN TO ONE OR BOTH OF OUR CARS.

FRONT WINDOWS KEEP GIVING TROUBLE. I HAVE GONE TO DEALER SEVERAL TIMES FOR THIS ISSUE WITHOUT ANY LONG TERM RESOLUTION. FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW AND DRIVER WINDOW ROLLS UP AND DOWN SEVERAL TIMES WHEN YOU TRY TO CLOSE IT. THIS OCCURS WHEN THE CAR IS STATIONARY AS WELL AS DRIVING. THIS IS VERY INCONVENIENT IN IN-CLIMATE WEATHER AND CAN POSE A SAFETY ISSUE.

Mileage: 27,104

MOON ROOF GLASS SHATTERED WITHOUT APPARENT CAUSE, WHILE DRIVING ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAY AT SPEED LIMIT IN GOOD WEATHER AND IN AN AREA WITHOUT TRAFFIC, OVERPASSES, TREES OR OTHER KNOWN HAZARDS TO GLASS. THOUGHT AT FIRST THAT I WAS MYSTERIOUSLY HIT BY ANOTHER VEHICLE FROM NOWHERE, BASED ON THE LOUD NOISE WHEN THE GLASS BROKE. FORTUNATELY, I WAS NOT IN HEAVY TRAFFIC, WHERE I MAY HAVE TAKEN EVASIVE ACTION TO AVOID ANOTHER APPARENT COLLISION. DEALER SAID THE NEEDED REPAIRS WERE NOT COVERED, SO I HAD THE WORK COMPLETED BY A LOCAL GLASS SHOP FOR $325 (RECEIPT IN MY FILES).

Mileage: 16,500

I HAVE HAD 3 CRACKED WINDSHIELDS SINCE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE IN MAY OF 2016.

WHY IS THIS SITE REJECTING THE VIN FOR THIS VEHICLE. VIN IS 18 NUMBERS AND LETTERS BUT SAFERCAR.GOV JUST ACCEPTS ONLY 17 NUMBERS AND LETTERS SO COULD YOU EMAIL WITH THE ANSWER AND IS THE OUTBACK ON RECALL FOR TAKATA AIRBAGS

TAKATA RECALL - NOTHING HAPPENED, RECEIVED NOTICE OF POSSIBLE RECALL.

EYESIGHT TECHNOLOGY WARNING SHOWED INOPERABLE ALONG WITH LANE DEPARTURE AND FRONT END COLLISION AVOIDANCE SYSTEM. THE CAR HAD BEEN RUNNING LESS THAN 3 MINUTES AFTER OVER 24 . PULLED OVER CALLED DEALER WHO ATTEMPTED TO WALK ME THROUGH RESET. UNSUCCESSFUL NO AVAILABILITY FOR SERVICE SO SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT 3 DAYS LATER. CAR WARNING LIGHTS CLEARED ON THEIR OWN. SHOWED ADVISOR EMAIL FROM AUTO MESS. FROM SUBARU INDICATING WARNING LIGHT WAS AN ISSUE. WAS TOLD CODE WOULD BE CHECKED BUT SUBARU WAS AWARE OF THE ISSUE WHEN SOME CARS WERE OVERHEATED. DEALERSHIP WAS ADVISED TO CLEAR THE CODE AND SEND PEOPLE ON THEIR WAY. NO CODES REGISTERED AT ALL IN THE SYSTEM AND WHEN I LET THEM KNOW THAT CAR WAS ABSOLUTELY NOT OVERHEATED, I WAS TOLD THERE WAS NOTHING THAT COULD BE DONE BECAUSE SUBARU KNOWS THAT WHEN CARS OVERHEAT IT SOMETIMES HAPPENS. NOTHING COULD BE DONE BUT THE GREATER CONCERN IS THAT THEIR PREMISE OF WHEN THE ISSUE IS OCCURRING IS INACCURATE AT LEAST IN OUR CAR'S CASE AND IT DID NOT APPEAR, DUE TO THE REPETITION OF THE COMPANY CONTENTION THAT OVERHEATING WAS THE CAUSE OF THE ISSUE NOR WERE THEY WILLING TO ENTERTAIN ANY OTHER SCENARIO THAN THAT WHICH SUBARU ALREADY DECIDED. SPOKE WITH SUBARU OF AMERICA WHO 7/10/17 CUSTOMER SERVICE WHO STATED NOT AWARE OF ANY ISSUES BUT WOULD LOOK IN TO IT. BY THE END OF DAY 7.13.17.

Mileage: 7,500

AT TIMES, NOT ALL TIMES, THE IGNITION SWITCH LOCKS UP AND YOU HAVE TO DO ALL KINDS OF THINGS TO GET FREED. IT HAS HAPPENED TO WIFE A FEW TIMES IN PLACES THAT IS NOT THE BEST PLACES. ALSO IN THE DARKS, IN PARKING LOTS, AT THE STORE. WE HAVE TAKEN IT BACK TO THE DEALER 3 OR 4 TIMES OVER THE SAME PROBLEM THEY SAY BECAUSE THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM THERE IS NO PROBLEM. MY WIFE HAS CALLED ROADSIDE ASSIST FOR HELP A FEW TIMES. WE FEEL THERE IS A PROBLEM AND FALLS ON DEAF EARS. WE THROUGH WE WERE BUYING A GOOD CAR AND OUR LAST CAR. MAYBE WE PICKED THE WRONG DEALERSHIP, THEY KNOW HOW TO SELL, TALK A GOOD STORY BUT DON'T KNOW HOW TO FIX THE PROBLEM. ALL WE HERE IS CANNOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM SO THERE IS NO PROBLEM. ALSO WE WERE TOLD TO LEAVE THE STEERING WHEEL IN THE 3 AND 9 0'CLOCK POSITION, BEFORE WE TURN THE IGNITION OFF AND IT HAS LOCKED UP THERE ALSO. HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO HAVE YOUR WIFE AND YOUR KIDS BE STRANDED BECAUSE THE IGNITION LOCKED UP AND COULD NOT GET IT UNSTUCK? ALSO HAS STARTED THE CAR AND IT HAS DIE RIGHT A WAY THIS HAS HAPPEN A COUPLE OF TIMES.[ THERE WERE MORE TIMES THAN 1 ONE.] STATIONARY, CITY

Mileage: 100

WHENEVER IT RAINS, THE FRONT PASSENGER FLOOR IS FLOODED WITH WATER. I HAVE COMPLAINED ABOUT THIS ISSUE TO THE DEALERSHIP AND SUBARU OF AMERICA, THEY MADE 4 ATTEMPTS TO FIX THE PROBLEM. EVERY TIME I COMPLAINED ABOUT THE PROBLEM, THE DEALERSHIP KEEPS MY VEHICLE FOR MORE THAN 2 WEEKS, THEY TELL ME SOME CAR STORY THAT I DO NOT UNDERSTAND, REASSURE ME THAT THE PROBLEM IS FIXED, BUT THE NEXT TIME IT RAINS, I AM BACK AT THE DEALERSHIP. ALL THESE PROBLEMS HAPPENED WITHIN 18 MONTHS OF MY VEHICLE PURCHASE. AT THE MOMENT, MY CAR IS STILL AT THE DEALERSHIP, THIS WILL BE THE 4TH TIME THE FLOOR IS FLOODED WITH WATER. I HAVE ASKED SUBARU OF AMERICA FOR MY FULL MONEY BACK, BUT THEY KEEP TELLING ME, THAT THEY ARE INVESTIGATING THE PROBLEM AND A REPRESENTATIVE WILL REACH OUT TO ME. WHEN THE FLOOR WAS FLOODED WITH WATER, THE CAR WAS STATIONARY AND IT WAS PARKED AT A PRIVATE PROPERTY PARKING LOT (NOT A GARAGE).

Mileage: 15,800

THE CAR AFTER 6 MONTHS HAS BEEN MAKING AN INTERMITTENT RATTLE NOISE THAT I BROUGHT INTO SUBARU TO INVESTIGATE. I SHARE THE VIDEO BUT THEY STATED THEY NEED TO RECREATE THE NOISE TO KNOW WHAT WAS WRONG. AFTER SEVERAL MONTHS, THEY FINALLY HEARD THE NOISE AND WITHOUT TESTING STATED THE EVAPORATOR PUMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AFTER REPLACING THE PUMP THE ISSUE WAS STILL THERE. I THEN PUSHED THE ISSUE FURTHER AND SUBARU AMERICA ONLY RECOMMENDED THAT I BRING THE CAR TO ANOTHER DEALERSHIP. I DID THIS WHERE THEY PLANED TO DRIVE THE CAR TO AND FROM THEIR TOP MECHANICS HOME HOOKED UP TO THE DIAGNOSTIC SUBARU COMPUTER. WHEN WE PICKED THE CAR UP WITH NO RESOLVE, THEY ONLY DROVE THE CAR FOR 1 MILE WHICH MEANS IT NEVER WHEN BETWEEN MILFORD, CT TO MONROE, CT. AT THIS POINT MY FAMILY IS POISED TO LOSE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS ON A BRAND NEW CAR THAT DOES NOT MEET THE LEMON LAW IN MY STATE AND HAS NO RESOLVE FOR A NOISE THAT WAKES UP MY 14 MONTH SON WHO IS A SOUND SLEEPER. THE NOISE IS EXTREMELY LOUD THAT PEOPLE CAN HEAR THE NOISE WHEN OCCURRING WHEN INSIDE THEIR HOMES AS I PULL UP. THE LAST DEALERSHIP ADVISOR TOLD ME SUBARU KNEW OF A SIMILAR CASE WHERE THE COMPUTER WAS DEFECTED AND HAD TO EXCHANGE THE MATTER BUT IN MY CASE THEY DID NOT RECOMMEND THIS AND WHEN I ASKED WHY TO THE SERVICE MANAGER, HE DENIED WHAT THE ADVISORS TOLD ME FROM THE NOTES. I FEEL SUBARU HAD DECEIVED ME AND IS TRYING TO COVER SOMETHING UP AS I DO NOT FEEL CONFIDED THAT THE EMISSIONS OR OTHER MECHANICS SYSTEMS ARE WORKING PROPERLY DESPITE SUBARU STATING EVERYTHING IS NORMAL.

Mileage: 15,000

VEHICLE WARNING LIGHTS IN PASSENGER SIDE MIRROR DO NOT ACTIVATE FOR SEMI-TRUCKS WITH TRAILERS, BUT DO ACTIVATE FOR CARS AND LIGHT TRUCKS. I TRIED DURING A 40 KM. TRIP ON A FOUR LANE INTERSTATE HIGHWAY. IF PASSED A CAR OR LIGHT DUTY TRUCK THEN THE LIGHT NOTIFIED ME THAT THERE WAS A VEHICLE IN THE BLIND SPOT, BUT IF I PASSED A TRACTOR-TRAILER UNIT IT DID NOT PICK IT UP AND THE LIGHTS DID NOT COME ON. I REPEATED MY SMALL EXPERIMENT FOR 40 KM. AND EVERY TIME WAS THE SAME. I THINK THAT THE TRACTOR TRAILER WOULD DO A LOT MORE DAMAGE THAT A SMALL CAR.

Mileage: 1,800

HAVE 2016 OUTBACK BUILT ON JUNE 15,2016. WINDSHIELD CRACKED AT 750 KM. MARK. TRAVELING ON PAVED ROAD AND NO KNOW STONES HIT WINDSHIELD. PAID FOR THROUGH INSURANCE COMPANY WITH A $300.00 DEDUCTIBLE. NOW READ OF ALL THE OTHER WINDSHIELD PROBLEMS. CRACK STARTED IN BLACK AREA JUST ABOVE PASSENGER SIDE WIPER.

Mileage: 472

IT IS POSSIBLE TO INADVERTENTLY STOP THE CAR'S ENGINE WHEN PARKING AND TRANSMISSION PUT IN NEUTRAL. THERE IS NO VISIBLE OR AUDIBLE WARNING TO ALERT DRIVER TO SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO "PARK" POSITION OR AND/OR ENGAGE EMERGENCY BRAKE BEFORE STOPPING ENGINE AND EXITING THE VEHICLE. IF CAR IS ON A SLOPE WHEN IN "NEUTRAL", IT IS POSSIBLE TO EXIT THE CAR AND FIND THE CAR STARTING TO ROLL AWAY.I BELIEVE THERE SHOULD BE SOMETHING TO PREVENT THIS, OR AT LEAST ACTIVELY ALERT THE DRIVER OF THE DANGER, AND NEED TO PUT IN "PARK", BEFORE LEAVING CAR. I HAVE HAD SOME INSTANCES OF THIS HAPPENING, BUT ALWAYS MANAGED TO NOTICE IT BEFORE THE CAR MOVED AWAY. I AM WARY OF THE RISK.

Mileage: 4,200

WE PURCHASED A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK 3.6, FULLY-LOADED WITH EVERY BELL AND WHISTLE REGARDING SAFETY, COMFORT, AND CONVENIENCE IN THE MIDDLE OF DECEMBER 2015. THE SUBARU STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM'S TECHNOLOGY FROZE CAUSING THE CLOCK TO FREEZE AT 10:37AM AS WELL AS THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM (NO VOICE COMMANDS EITHER.) THE MULTI-TOUCH INTERFACE NOT ONLY LOST FUNCTIONALITY ACROSS THE BOARD, BUT IT AFFECTED THE MESSAGE DISPLAY BETWEEN THE TACH AND SPEEDOMETER, AS WELL AS THE TOUCH SCREEN OPTIONS DISAPPEARING FROM THE SCREEN, THE MAP WOULD NOT DISPLAY, YOU WOULD PRESS THE AUDIO BUTTON AND AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS, THE AUDIO SCREEN WOULD AUTOMATICALLY ENTER SPLIT-SCREEN MODE WITH THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM. WHEN TRYING TO EXIT SPLIT-SCREEN, THE SYSTEM WOULD NOT RESPOND. IF I SHUT THE RADIO OFF BY THE BUTTON, THE SYSTEM WOULD NOT SHUT DOWN. THE RADIO WOULD SAY, "AUDIO OFF - TOUCH HERE TO GO TO SOURCE SCREEN", HOWEVER THE SYSTEM WOULDN'T SHUT DOWN. THE SYSTEM WOULD STAY ON SPLIT SCREEN WITH THE MAP, ONLY THE MAP WOULD DISAPPEAR. I VIDEOTAPED WHAT WAS HAPPENING, CALLED STARLINK, SUBARU OF AMERICA, AND THE DEALER, WHO HAS BEEN AWESOME SO FAR, AND WAS TOLD THEY KNOW OF ONE OTHER VEHICLE WITH THIS SITUATION. SUBARU OF AMERICA SAID TO SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF AND "REBOOT" THE SYSTEM TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP BECAUSE IT DID IN ANOTHER INSTANCE, ALTHOUGH NOT TOTALLY CORRECTING THE PROBLEM AND ONLY ADDRESSING THE GPS FREEZE. THERE ARE A COUPLE OF TSBS (TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS) ON THE RADIO, HOWEVER NONE APPLIED TO THE SYMPTOMS BEING DISPLAYED BY MY VEHICLE. WAITING ON SUBARU OF AMERICA TO ADDRESS THIS AND A ROOF RAIL ISSUE. DEALER BELIEVES THERE WILL BE MANY MORE OF THESE COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SUBARU STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM'S TECHNOLOGY. REGARDING THE ROOF RAILS, THEY DO NOT SIT FLUSH TO THE ROOF. DEALER REPLACED LEFT SIDE ALREADY AND STILL HAPPENING, SO SUBARU HAS TO ADDRESS IT NOW.

Mileage: 13,000

I TOOK MY 2016 OUTBACK IN TO A DEALER PRIMARILY BECAUSE THE PASSENGER SIDE BLIND SPOT DETECTION WAS NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY, ACKNOWLEDGING THAT IT DID WORK AT TIMES. I TOOK IN WRITTEN DOCUMENTATION IN THE FORM OF RECORDED OCCURRENCES OF IT MALFUNCTIONING, BASED ON THREE TRIPS ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAYS TOTALING MORE THAN 150 MILES. THE DOCUMENTATION LISTED THE TYPE OF HIGHWAY, SPEED, MILES DRIVEN, WEATHER CONDITIONS (COULDS, SUN, RAIN, ETC), VEHICLE CLEANLINESS AND THE NUMBER OF SUCCESSFUL DETECTIONS OF OTHER VEHICLES IN THE BLIND SPOT AS WELL AS THE NUMBER OF DETECTIONS MISSED. IT WORKED CORRECTLY WELL LESS THAN 50% OF THE TIME ON EACH OF THE THREE TRIPS. DETECTION ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE SEEMS TO BE FINE. ON TWO OF THE TRIPS I HAD A SECOND VEHICLE THAT I OWN FOLLOW ME DIRECTLY. THAT VEHICLE ALSO HAS BLIND SPOT DETECTION. WHILE THE OUTBACK FAILED TO DETECT MORE THAN 50% OF THE TIME, THE OTHER VEHICLE NEVER FAILED TO DETECT ON EITHER TRIP. THE DEALER I TOOK THE CAR TO SAID THEY CHECKED IT OUT AND IT SEEMED TO WORK FINE. I CONSIDERED THAT AN INSULT TO MY INTELLIGENCE. FURTHER, THROUGH RESEARCH ON THE WEB I CAN TELL THAT AT LEAST SEVERAL OTHER OUTBACK OWNERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM WITH DETECTION ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. I BELIEVE THAT A SAFETY SYSTEM THAT IS THAT UNRELIABLE PRESENTS MORE OF A DANGER TO THE DRIVER THAN NOT HAVING ONE AT ALL. WHILE I UNDERSTAND FROM READING THE OWNER'S MANUAL IT CAN'T BE EXPECTED TO BE 100% ACCURATE ALL THE TIME, A DETECTION RATE THAT IS CONSISTENTLY LESS THAN 50% IS VERY POOR PERFORMANCE. THE VEHICLE COST MORE THAN $37,000. I PAID FOR THE ACCESSORY, AND IT SHOULD WORK.

CRACK IN WINDSHIELD HAD CRACKS APPEAR IN WINDSHIELD ON 2 SEPARATE DAYS IN JAN. 2016 . HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED IN MID JAN BY SUBARU DEALER. ON FEB 25 WHILE DRIVING ON I-95 IN GA. ANOTHER CRACK APPEARED IN NEW WINDSHIELD WITH NO APPARENT CAUSE . WE WERE DRIVING ABOUT 70 MPH AT ABOUT 70 MPH

Mileage: 5,400

2016 SUBARU OUTBACK WHILE DRIVING CAR ON I-95 , NOTICED 4-4 IN. CRACK IN LOWER DRIVER SIDE WINDSHIELD ,AFTER INVESTIGATING NOTICED SMALL PIT SIZE OF PENCIL POINT WHERE THE CRACK STARTED. CRACK KEPT GROWING. NEXT DAY CONTINUED MY TRIP ON I-95 , ABOUT 3 HRS LATER ANOTHER CRACK APPEARED IN THE UPPER CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD , AFTER INVESTIGATING NOTICED SMALL PIT THE SIZE OF PENCIL POINT WHERE THE CRACK STARTED. SAME AS FIRST CRACK I DID NOT NOTICE ANY DEBRIS HITTING THE WINDSHIELD . I RESEARCHED ON THE INTERNET AND FOUND NUMEROUS SIMILAR INCIDENTS WITH SUBARU OUTBACKS. I BELIEVE THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE WITH THE GLASS IN THE WINDSHIELD

Mileage: 1,120